Interior Wooden Doors – Top Tips on Care and Maintenance

Interior wooden doors have a hard time of things. They have to put up with everyday knocks, bumps, shoe scuffs, greasy hand prints, dirt from passing pets and more, every day of the year, and they’re still expected to look good. If you’ve bought a set of lovely new interior wood doors, or are thinking about renovating your existing doors, our top tips will help you bring out the best in them so they look wonderful as well as protecting and preserving them for longer.

Choosing the Right Interior Wooden Doors and Interior Wood Treatment

If you haven’t looked already, you’ll be amazed at the number of door sizes, styles and construction types. There are two, four, six and eight panel doors made of oak, pine, walnut and cherry, to name just a few, plus solid wood or hollow construction doors, and they all come either finished or unfinished, ie. pre-oiled, waxed or varnished… or left natural. As you can imagine making the right choice can be a challenge, and most people tend to base their final decision on the appearance and cost.

About Pre-finished Interior Doors

If you’ve chosen pre-finished doors, you can usually find out which stain, if any, and oil, wax or varnish finish the doors have been treated with by checking the manufacturer’s paperwork. If not, it’s a good idea to ask the seller or even the manufacturer themselves. It’s also worth asking if they can either supply the wood stain and finishing products used on the doors, or know someone who can. It comes in handy to have some handy, just in case the door ever gets damaged.

About Unfinished Interior Doors

Unfinished doors come with a world of possibilities aside from the door style itself. There are countless final finish choices, everything from a traditional natural oak look with a matt or soft satin sheen to something unusual, even unique. And there’s a huge variety of wood finishing products to use on interior doors, both clear and coloured, including varnishes, wood oils, waxes and stains.

Things To Be Aware Of When Finishing Internal Doors

A common issue we encounter at Wood Finishes Direct are calls from people who’ve bought veneered wooden interior doors, only to discover the door label advises against some types of wood finish. Sometimes they warn against specific products, for example Danish Oil, Teak Oil and other types of wood oil. Other times the manufacturer’s warnings cover a range of products including oils, varnishes and waxes. But does it really mean you can’t use the products and if so, do you risk damaging the wood?  It’s an interesting point, and one worth covering.

What is a veneer?

Veneered wooden doors are usually made from a hollow or solid wooden core. The core is usually particle board or medium density fibreboard, AKA MDF. A layer of high quality wood veneer is attached to the core of the door using powerful glues and bonding agents. The quality of modern veneered doors is usually down to the type of core, the type of wood and the thickness of the veneer.

About 20th century mass production

Wood veneers have been used for centuries to produce high quality finishes. But mass production in the mid to late 20th century saw quality take a tumble as the drive for cheaper, thinner veneers and glues took hold. This sometimes led to the veneers de-laminating, in other words peeling off the doors in extreme heat or when certain products were used. This is why so many manufacturers today include disclaimers on their products to discourage the use of products they believe might have an effect on the veneer. It’s an historical thing.

Why do manufacturers still warn against using wood finishes on veneered doors?

More than 90% of veneered doors these days come from the Far East. We think it’s highly likely that all the manufacturers in the Far East have taken the lead from one large original producer, giving warnings about wood finishing products without checking whether the risk is genuine. Unlike the manufacturers, we’re well placed to talk about wood finishes – it’s our area of expertise. We supply a vast range of different products from different manufacturers, all of whom agree that stains, waxes, varnishes, oils, paints and so on DO NOT penetrate deeper than 1mm into a veneer.

Why does the thickness of the veneer matter? In reality, modern veneers are rarely less than a millimetre thick and because modern wood finishes never penetrate more than a millimetre into the surface of the wood, there’s very little chance of them interacting with the glue that bonds the veneer to the core of the door. In short, unless the veneer is very badly worn indeed, modern wood finish products simply can’t penetrate deeply enough to cause the veneer to peel off.

Modern wood finishing products designed for veneers

In our experience we’ve never come across anyone using a wood oil, wax or varnish that has caused the veneer to peel off a door. It just doesn’t happen. In fact companies like Osmo and our own Manns brand produce door oils and other wood finishes specifically designed for solid and veneered interior doors.

There’s just one common sense thing to bear in mind: while we can say with confidence that the products we sell are perfectly fine to use on interior doors, using them against the manufacturers advice will invalidate the warranty that comes with the door.

Always do a test patch first

Our advice if you want to stain, oil, wax or varnish any sort of door? Always do a test area first, ideally on an edge or on the door bottom where the wood can be cleaned or sanded if the product doesn’t deliver the finish you were expecting.

Follow the manufacturers instructions on the packaging, take the time needed to do a really good job and you can’t go far wrong. After all, because you use your doors dozens of times a day, it’s important to be happy with the end result.

Need expert advice?

We don’t just sell all the stuff you need to make a fantastic job of maintaining and renovating wooden interior doors, we provide expert advice too – just give us a call.

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126 Responses to “Interior Wooden Doors – Top Tips on Care and Maintenance”

  1. Paul Tyson Says:

    I’m due to have some solid wood doors fitted and will need to ‘oil’ them, what do you recommend and what id=s the best way to undertake the work?

    Kind regards,

    Paul.

  2. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Paul,

    Thank you for your inquiry, there are a number of products that you can use but here are two that I would recommend for you. The first is the Manns Door Oil this will slightly darken the wood and leave a Matt Finish. An alternative would be the Osmo Door Oil which will again slightly darken the wood and leave a Satin Matt Finish. Both these products need to go on thinly and and will give a good level of protection. If you can do application before the doors are hung then you may find that easier. We generally say its about three square meters per door so depending on how many doors you have to treat will depend on how much you need, and we have a coverage calculator for both products.

  3. peter kennedy Says:

    i have exactly the same doors that are in the picture 1930s
    i applied bri wax to them after they where stripped but over the years they have got very black in places where greasy hands have been
    what would be the best thing to clean off the dirt as i dont really want to take all the wax off that i applied in the first place

    any advice would be welcome
    as i have researched on various sites and see that people recommend any thing from white spirit which i would guess would take all the wax off or even to cleaning with a brillo pad ! have even seen some one mention using GIN !!!

    i know sugar soap to be great for cleaning walls but would i be good for cleaning my dirty doors ???

    thanks in advance
    from peter

  4. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Peter,

    The best option for removing ground in dirt would be the White spirits I’m afraid, which would also remove the wax as you predicted. Most cleaning products are too acidic for cleaning waxed wood I’m afraid and are likely to also strip some of the wax off, but it might be worth trying Osmo Wash and Care which is a neutral cleaner specifically for oiled or waxed wood. Sanding back or using White Spirit to remove the stains and then re waxing is the best option and relatively easy to do, the wax should blend in well with the rest of the door.

  5. maria Says:

    hi can you please please help me, I bought some oak doors about 5 years ago they were untreated so I sanded lightly and varnished. However I now have a problem as on all of the doors about two inches from the handles there is a mark about three inches long and two inches wide it seems to be oily I do not know what to do I have tried several thing but can not remove the mark. any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated x

  6. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Maria,

    If you would like to send us a photo of the problem and we can get one of our experts to have a look and offer some advice – Sam

  7. mike Says:

    Hi
    We’re about to have Oak veneered doors hung, so just to clarify you think it would be OK to use OSMO door oil without it affecting the Veneer? I’m obviously a bit nervous about doing it as we’re having 4 doors hung. Here’s a link to the doors we’re getting.Many thanks.

  8. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Mike,

    Thank you for your inquiry, we are often asked about using Oils or Waxes on Veneered doors, as many manufacturers advice against it. Having looked at the doors that you are getting it does say that Oils and Waxes are not suitable, so I can not recommend using the Osmo Door Oil as it would invalidate your guarentee.

    However here at Wood finishes Direct we do believe that on most Veneers, the Oil would be fine to use. This is because the Oil will only absorb into less than 1mm on the surface of the wood and most veneers are around 3mm. Many manufacturers believe that the Oils will have an effect on the adhesion of the veneer.

    An alternative product to use would be the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish if you wanted to be on the safe side.

  9. Chris Says:

    Hello,

    This is a really useful post – I found it by fluke although funnily enough I bought some danish oil from you earlier this week!

    We have just bought and hung four oak veneered doors (http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Denham-Internal-Oak-Veneer-Door-4-Panel-1981x762mm/p/187511) and one glazed pine veneer door (http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Newland-Internal-Glazed-Door-9-Panel-1981x762mm/p/200527).

    So I guess I’m in a similar position to Mike, above. I guess my question is: what is the advantage of using oils and waxes as against varnish? Do oils and waxes give a nicer finish?

    Thanks,

    Chris

  10. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Chris,

    The Oils and Waxes will give a more natural finish to the wood for sure. The Oil soaks in to the surface of the wood where as the varnish creates a seal on the surface of the wood. The Varnish can look equally as good and if you go for the Matt or Satin Finish, will maintain a relatively natural look to the wood, but will subtly change the texture.

    In terms of ease of upkeep, the Oil can be patch repaired very easily if needed, blending well with surrounding oil. Or if after a few years you would like to refresh the look you can simply re apply another coat of Oil with out having to remove the previous Oil. These things would be less simple with a Varnish finish but still do able.
    The use of an Oil will of course invalidate your Guarantee if it specifically says not to use them. Always try a test area first.

  11. Chris Says:

    Thanks – really helpful.

  12. Alun Owen Says:

    I have purchased 11 Howdens Oak veneered hardwood interior doors which state that they should not be oiled or waxed as this does not seal them & could cause the laminate to come off. I have read all the articles on the site & all the posts above that say that oiling veneered doors should not be a problem. However it mentions veneers of 1mm or more thick & the specification of these doors states the veneer is 0.6mm thick. So, would it be ok to oil these doors or not? I realise that the guarantee on the doors would be void but just want to know if it is safe to oil them. Thanks

  13. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Alun,

    I would say that this is a bit close for comfort and may be better not to risk using the Oil or Wax. An alternative product that we would recommend would be the Manns Interior Extra Tough this is a Varnish and if you use the Matt or Satin finish it can give quite a natural finish. I hope that helps – Sam

  14. Alun Owen Says:

    Thanks for that Sam.

  15. kristian Bartley Says:

    Similarly to Alun I have bought 9 hardwood interior doors from how dens and the technical spec states I shouldn’t use wax or oil. I cannot find any information relating to the thickness of the veneer and therefore I am confused on what product to employ for sealing the doors. Please can you advise… Please see howdens link below; there is technical specifications at the bottom of the page where you may find something that I have missed.

    https://www.howdens.com/doors-joinery-collection/internal-doors/internal-hardwood-doors/4-panel-oak/

    Thanks.

  16. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Kristian,

    Our advice would be the same, if you use the Oil or wax on the doors it would be likely to invalidate your guarantee, no matter what the veneer thickness is. We feel that Oils and Waxes would be okay to use on most veneers ( always do a test area )

    But if you are uncertain then I would recommend using a Varnish to finish and protect your doors.

    For more advice please call 0800 7818 123 or email us at wood@finishes.direct

  17. linda Says:

    Have solid oak doors about 4yrs old have beeswaxed them twice they now have greasy finger marks and other slight marks I want to now use a Matt varnish,how do I clean the old beeswax off please help

  18. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Linda,

    You can use White Spirit and a coarse Steel Wool to remove the wax. Ensure that it is all off before applying the Varnish as this could effect the adhesion. And if you have any further questions please let me know – Sam.

  19. Andy Says:

    We have a set of 1930 doors that we got stripped last year. We haven’t got around the applying a finish to them….The doors are exactly like the reclaimed 1930s doors above.

    We were wondering:
    – is there anything we can do to remove our oily finger prints from them (we’ve ended up with no handles for too long!)
    – What type of finish you would recommend (young family with children so havent
    been too keen on wax)

    Any advice would be much appreciated!!!!

    A

  20. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Andy,

    If warm water is not working then you could try wiping down with White Spirit to see if that will remove then and if that doesn’t work than its down to sanding back.

    If you are looking for a clear natural finish then you can’t go wrong with a Hard Wax Oil product such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil it is durable and easy to maintain and you can easily keep clean with a PH Neutral cleaner. It will darken the wood slightly unless you go for the Natural finish which is designed to leave the wood looking almost as if it has no product on it. Always try a test area first. And if you have any further questions please let me know – Sam.

  21. Andrew Lane Says:

    Thank-you Sam!

    I will give all of the above a go.

    When we had the doors dipped, the provider left the handles on so we have had what I would call some bleeding into the doors which i think is rust (from the handles). Any magical suggestions on this? Ive tried sanding with minimal benefit so I think it has sunk well into the wood. Anything else yoy would normally try or do we just accept it?

    We will look to try to sort our finger prints out and then get the oil you recommend (will try a few testers to see what finish we would like.

  22. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Andrew,

    Unfortunately Rust can be difficult to remove if it deeply in grained into the wood, but its worth trying the White Spirit again as this may fade if nothing else. There are lots of suggestions on forums of trying Oxalic Acid or Bleaching with Lemon Juice and the like but I am not sure any of these will really help I’m afraid. Sorry I could not be of more help on this one but I would love to see photos if you get chance.

    Best Wishes Sam.

  23. Chihuahua Says:

    Hi Sam have read your blog about painting interior veneered doors with interest and wonder if you can help me. Have just bought 2 exterior American white oak veneered half glazed back doors in a clearance sale from B&Q. One is a bit damaged and needs filling but overall they are in good condition. The website says they should be stained or varnished but I want to paint them as they are going on the back of a cottage very close to the sea. A reviewer on the site says the veneer is aprox 5mm thick so am hoping they will be ok to paint even though it seems they are not supposed to be. Could you advise me on this and also which products to use? Thanks Chihuahua

  24. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Chihauhau,

    5mm is quite a good depth for a veneer so you should be safe with which ever product you choose to use, it is still vital to carry out a test area first however, not only to check there is no adverse reaction but also to check that you like the finished effect. The product that you use will depend on the type of finish that you would like.

    So you have said that you would like to paint them, does this mean that you would like an opaque colour on the doors, if so you could look at the Osmo Country Colour this is an oil based product that gives a paint like appearance but won’t peel and flake in the future like a paint will. Or if you are looking for a translucent finish then you could have a look at the Tint Ranges from Osmo or Fiddes and see if there is a colour in either of those that you like. All of these products require thin application and for a better finish denib between coats with Finishing Pad

    You should also check any paper work that you have with the doors that may tell you what not you use. You will invalidate any guarantee you have if you use anything that the manufacturer advises against. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please let me know – Sam.

  25. Chihuahua Says:

    Hi Sam
    Thanks so much for your helpful reply.
    Have had a look at the Osmo country colour which does look like an excellent product from reading the reviews. I was originally thinking of painting the doors in a good qualty exterior satin paint as the house is only 50 yards from the seafront and the weather can include waves coming up the street during the winter! so the house does need to have the best finish for severe weather.
    If I were to use oil based exterior paint I’m wondering which is the best primer and undercoat to use especially considering the fact the doors are veneered and also to weatherproof them.
    Thanks again for your help
    Chihuahua

  26. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Chihuahua,

    It is fair to say that when you are located in an area where you get extreme weather conditions no product will be totally fool proof, but there are some products that are more durable than others. If would fair to say that the Country Colour is pretty durable and with a base coat of Preservative it will do a good job for you and it is easy to maintain over time by just adding top a coat when you feel it needs it.

    Another product that you could consider is the Sikkens Rubbol XD Gloss this is an opaque paint like finish in Black or white and requires a base coat of Sikkens Rubbol Primer Plus it is an exceptionally durable product, but have good read of all the information on this product on our website – Sam.

  27. Magic Says:

    Hello!

    I have read your tips and all various commens with a great interest. I am looking to get this door, saw them in B&Q today and also touched them – they look fine to me and feel reall smooth. Why would I need to stain or varnish them, could I not leave them as they are? They look perfectly fine to me but as you can imagine I am not an expert in this field. Another reason is that if I was to stain or varnish them I do not think I could do it perfectly and apply an even and smooth coat…

    Any advice would be much appreciated, thank you.

  28. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello,

    One of the main reasons for treating Internal doors is to get the look that you want, but also to protect from moisture ingress, stains and general dirt. There is a natural amount of moisture in the atmosphere, that is generally not enough to cause immediate of visible damage to your doors, but over a long term period if the wood is absorbing moisture you may get various issues including Swelling, shrinking, and even mould. Temperature changes can also effect the wood and greasy finger prints and dirt marks that inevitably build up over time can be harder to clean off of bare wood.

    If you seal the wood with an Oil or Varnish this will help protect against the above issues. If you like the natural finish of the wood and don’t want to change it we have a couple of products that would be suited for this. The first is Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural which is designed to leave the wood looking as natural and unaltered in colour as possible whilst still protecting. The other is from Osmo Polyx Oil Raw which works in the same way as the Fiddes but has less solvent in it. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please let me know.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  29. Vicky... Says:

    Hi,

    I have oak veneered doors from howdens which have been treated with oil. We have recently had the architrave around the doors painted in satin, and unfortunately there are splashes of paint on the doors. I think they have tried to remove the paint with white spirt as the marks left are white smears.

    Could you advise in any way how to remove this? Would we need to sand doors and reapply oil?

    Many thanks

  30. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Vicky,

    You should, in this case be able to just sand the areas that are marked, back to bare wood and then re apply the oil that the doors where originally treated with. Most Oils will blend quite nicely for patch repairs, but you should try a test area first – Sam

  31. Vicky... Says:

    Thanks for the reply.

    The doors are actually varnished/stained, not oiled! As the decorator has tried to remove it with white spirt ( left a white smear), is it now time to sand the whole door and re varnish (clear)? Or do as you say above?

    Would white spirt do damage to the door?

    Many thanks again,

  32. YorkDecor Says:

    This has been a great read , I am a pro decorator , I do oak veneer doors a lot and have used a water based varnish on them because this label really put me off using oils (which do provide a better finish ) on them , I would like to use oil more on them as I believe it is tougher than WB ,
    Thank you for this insight

    Rich

  33. Angela Says:

    Hi I’ve just had 2 oak vaneer doors fitted they haven’t bn treated yet and I’ve got oil on one of them . How will I get this out . Thanks

  34. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Angela,

    Have you tried wiping down with some White Spirit this is good for removing stains and oils. If this doesn’t work you may need to sand back to remove any marks – Sam.

  35. Tony Says:

    Hi I hope you can help.
    We had some 1930s lovely wooden doors.
    We had them stripped and the person recommend oil.
    He was a cowboy and they are awful.
    I’ve sanded them all down but they still look really uneven and patchy.
    Any advise on what I can do ?

  36. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Tony,

    Thank you for your inquiry, there are many oils that we would recommend for doors. I would take a guess that the application or preparation process of the doors may be the reason for the bad finish. It may be that there was previous treatment on the wood that was preventing the oil from penetrating or the sanding was uneven, but there are a number of reasons why a good finish was not achieved.

    You could try wiping with White Spirit this should remove a lot of oil from the wood and then its good old sanding I’m afraid. I hope this helps and if you would like any further information or advise on alternative products please let me know – Sam

  37. Andrew Lane Says:

    Hi Sam.

    Andrew here, all the way from 30th October….my doors still keep falling off the agenda.

    How can I send you the photos you requested? 🙂

  38. Jason Says:

    Hi Sam
    My internal doors were originally treated with dark oak liquid wax but over time they have aged so to freshen them up I applied a coat of Danish oil but they look awful now. Very patchy as if the oil hasn’t soaked into the wood. Would more coats of oil solve this problem?
    Many thanks

  39. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Jason,

    Thank you for your inquiry, no please don’t add any more oil. The wax is likely to be preventing the danish oil from penetrating and causing the patchiness. Can you tell me what the original product was that you used ? And hopefully I can advise from there – Sam

  40. Clive Morgan Says:

    Hi, I have 5 of exactly the same type of 1930 interior doors you have pictured on your post. I would like to give them a bit of a subtle lift as they look quite dull at the moment but not sure the best way to go about it ( apply with brush or cloth) and what to use stain, oil, wax or vanish (although I don’t particularly like the vanish finish) also small bits of wood are missing in some parts of the doors so would need some type of coloured filler as well if you can recommend anything? (Again the doors are the same colour as the 1930s ones in your picture) any help would be great. Thanks in advance.

  41. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Clive,

    Thank you for your inquiry, if the doors are back to bare wood then you could have a look at a Osmo Polyx Oil which is a clear product that will slightly darken and enhance the grain of the wood, giving a warm and protected finish. Or if you wanted to add a little colour then the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints will colour and protect in one.

    Both these products require very thin application and are available in sample sizes for a test area. Application with the Snappy Applicator is popular or Mako Brush, just as long as application is thin. Please let me know if you need any further advise.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  42. Mark Dawson Says:

    Hi we’ve just had an oak staircase installed and not sure what to put on it to protect it. I recently varnished some oak doors but they are already showing grubby marks that I can’t get off. Maybe I didn’t put enough coats on.

    Would wax/oil be better than varnish for the stairs and also what can we do to stop it going yellow with age?

  43. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Mark,

    Varnish is a durable and hard wearing finish and you should be able to clean effectively. But the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil is easier to patch repair should you get any scratches or stains that can not be washed off.

    Most varnishes will not yellow these days and neither will the oil, but test areas are always recommended when using a new product to ensure that you like the finish that you are going to get. Please let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  44. simon Says:

    Morning, fantastic article,good read.
    I also have these Howdens oak veneered doors and have used osmo door oil which is suitable for veneered doors, as it says on the tin and have no problems at all, I know they are expensive and people do worry about putting oils on them, but dont panic, they come up a treat. My query is by using osmo door oil or any other make of oil, will the door in time become porous and be prone to marking around the door handles from your natural oils from your skin and in time stain the door, or does the oil actually seal the oak, therefore making a barrier so grime cannot get into the grain of the wood,as with a varnish. Many Thanks Simon

  45. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Simon,

    Thank you for the feedback. The Hard Wax Oil will dry hard and create a seal that is washable with a product such as Osmo Interior Spray Cleaner. Should there be wear or stains appear over time it is very simple to lightly sand with a Finishing Pad and then re treat.

    Kind regards Ben.

  46. Michelle Says:

    Hi,

    I’ve recently varnished white oak doors, we bought clear varnish as I didn’t want to alter the colour of the door just give it some protection. However, the doors seemed to have darkened quite a lot and I’m not happy with the colour. Firstly, should this of happened and secondly, what’s the best way to get the doors back to their original state (if at all possible).

    Many thanks

  47. Ben O'Reilly Says:

    Hi Michelle,

    Clear wood finishing products all give wood this almost “wet look” bringing out the natural colour of the wood and pronouncing the grain more. It is possible to counter this “wet look” however only a few products offer this, for example the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw 3044 and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural. Both these products are however solvent based and if your doors are veneered the solvent present may cause de-lamination, so it would be worth contacting your doors manufacturer before using either of these products to find out if you can use solvent based products on them.

    Also worth noting these oils cannot be used over varnishes so you will have to remove all traces of the varnish prior to application of the oil.

    any further questions don’t hesitate to get in touch with our in-house sales and technical team by phoning 0800 7818 123 or emailing wood@finishes.direct.

    Best of Luck!

    Ben O’Reilly

  48. Duncan Edment Says:

    Sam,

    I’ve got 5 internal oak doors,that I waxed and polished 3 years ago. The doors have had the occasional buff to remove any marks, but that’s been it. How often do i need to re-apply the wax, or can I continue to buff the door? One of them, the bathroom, has what appears to be water stains on it. Will buffing remove these?

    Cheers

    Duncan

  49. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Duncan,

    There are no hard or fast rules about how often you need to apply wax. If you feel that the door is becoming a bit dull and needs a fresh coat then you can simply ensure the surface is clean and re apply, this could be 6 months, a year or longer. For any areas that are marked or stained use a Finishing Pad to lightly take back to bare wood and remove the mark and then simply re-wax the area. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions pleased don’t hesitate to ask.

    Kind regards Sam.

  50. Helen Says:

    Hello Sam. I recently had some 1930’s door stopped and was told to use viniger before applying briwax. I did this but after several weeks of drying between processes the door have started to have white powder marks on them. How can I sort this out? Thanks Helen

  51. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Helen.

    The vinegar may have been advised to neutralize the doors after being stripped. The white may be a build up of the wax that you have applied. Wax can collect in small grooves or crevises and leave a white residue. The best way to remove this is with a Coarse Brush give the areas a scruff with this brush and it should reduce or clear the built up wax. When you reapply to freshen up use the brush again to avoid the build up. I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  52. Nikki Says:

    Hello,

    I am having oak veneer doors fitted and want something that looks like a limed finish – is there anything you would recommend?

    Thanks,

    Nikki

  53. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Nikki,

    It might be worth you having a look at one of our other Blogs all about white finishes >>> http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/blog/beautiful-interior-white-wood-finishes-for-dreamy-interiors/ there are some great tips on how to achieve the desired white finish on your wood.

    Please check your manufacturers instructions or paper work also as some companies give a list of products that they believe you should not use. If this is the case then you could have a look at Manns Oak Wood Stain for colour and then Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish for the top coat protection. I hope that helps and please feel free to contact me should you have any further questions – Sam

  54. Patrick Says:

    Hi,

    We recently bought a set of knotted pine interior doors and I’ve been using a good brand gloss medium oak varnish. The colour is fine but the finish is a little dull and flat. Is it worthwhile getting a clear varnish or lacquer to cover further? Will it have the desired effect of giving a gloss finish?

    thanks,

    Patrick

  55. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Patrick,

    Yes you could apply a clear varnish over the top to add a glossier finish. Manns Extra Tough has a Gloss and Super Gloss finish. I would recommend a test area first to ensure that this product will adhere to the previous treament and that it will achieve the look you want. Please let me know should you need any further assistance.

    All the Best Ben.

  56. Taiyib Says:

    Hi I have recently bought 6 interior oak veneer doors from wicks they are now hung up and ready to be finished. Wickes have stated not to use any or wax or oil I’m guessing it will invalidate their guarantee but I’ve not checked yet. The doors now have been in use for a few weeks they have many grease marks how would I take them off and what would you advise to use for a natural finish if I can’t use oil or wax? And finally I’m completely new to this why do you stain wood before varnishing? Thank you

  57. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello,

    You could try White Spirits to remove greasy mark if this doesn’t work then a light sand. To seal you could look at Manns Interior Varnish this is a clear varnish that will seal and protect your doors.

    If you wanted to add some colour to the doors then you could look at applying a stain such as Manns Pine Wood Stain and then a top coat of the Manns Extra Tough Varnish. I hope that helps and please don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  58. Vicky Says:

    Hi, i have recently bought some Howdens clear pine doors and dont know whether to use oil or wax, will wax mark on heavily used areas? I do want the doors to darken slightly, but would danish oil produce this finish?

  59. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Vicky,

    Thank you for your inquiry, both oil and wax are suitable for use on doors but of the two the oil will be more hard wearing. Danish Oil is a good product to look at and will naturally darker the wood slightly. It required a number of coats and would need a maintenance coat every 6 month to a year depending on use.

    An alternative would be the Fiddes Hard Wax this require two thin coats and is much more durable. Requiring maintenance for doors around every couple of years. Always try a test area. And if you have any other questions please let me know.

    All the Best Ben.

  60. Farren Says:

    Hi There,

    We have justed sanded down our two stack away doors and put the first coat of stainer on but I don’t know what’s happened it looks terrible. There is an oily substance coming out of the doors.

    Please help!!
    What can I do or use to correct it?

    Thank you

  61. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Farren,

    I would be happy to take a look at some photos if you are able to send some in to wood@finishes.direct. And hopefully we can help to solve your problem and advice on the correct products to use.

    Kind regards Sam.

  62. Peri Siva Says:

    I have just installed Clear Pine indoor doors.What varnish should I use so that door keeps its natural look. Will antique pine varnish keep the looks without darkening it too much.

  63. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Peri,

    My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I would recommend having a look at the Interior Varnish from Manns which is a clear finish product that will only darken the wood slightly rather than change the colour. It is a non yellowing varnish that comes in 4 sheen levels from Matt to Gloss. I hope that helps and please do let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  64. Lisa Says:

    Hi I recently purchased 5 deanta unfinished oak doors from doors world. I want to protect them but keep them as natural looking as possible. What would you recommend. Thanks

  65. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Lisa,

    For the most natural looking finish to the door you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural it is an oil that will protect and nourish the wood and is longer lasting than oils such as Danish or Tung. Most clear oils will darken the wood slightly and this one is designed to counter act that darkening. Test areas are strongly recommended before full application.

    I hope that helps and please do let me know if you have any other questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  66. Kate Says:

    Hi, we have some Howden veneer doors and because it said not to stain them we didn’t, they are bow covered in marks and grease stains, I know you have advised people to sand them but surely on veneer you can’t do that? Wouldn’t mdf show through? Is there anything that will get stains out, tried water on damp cloth but just makes it worse 🙁 🙁
    Thanks

  67. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Kate,

    You could try wiping down with White Spirits, this may help to remove some marks. Veneers can be lightly sanded but you should check with manufacturers for guidance to avoid invalidating any guarantee that you may have.

    It is usually okay to use Varnishes on veneered doors and I would recommend the Extra Tough Interior Varnish from Manns as a good option for future protection of your doors. I hope that helps and please do let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  68. Tracy Says:

    Hi

    I have just purchased a range of unfinished solid oak doors, bannister and rails for the staircase. I have read about oils, waxes and varnishes. I want to retain the colour but want to protect against knocks, pets, teenagers etc. Which would you say will offer this?

    Tracy

  69. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Tracy,

    I would recommend having a look at the Hard wax Oil this is a durable hard wearing product that will protect from everyday wear and tear and is easy to maintain and repair over time and gives a natural look and feel to the wood. It will darken the wood slightly and give what we call the wet look.

    But if this is too dark for you then its worth looking at the Natural which has a small amount of white pigment to counteract the darkening. Both are available in sample sizes in order to carry out test areas. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please do let me know.

    Kind regards Sam.

  70. Linda Says:

    Hi

    Could you possibly provide me with an easy explanation of the difference in Oak doors that are pre finished compared to pre varnished compared to oak veneer pre finished. Its all very confusing.

    Thank you
    Linda

  71. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Linda,

    Pre finished means have either a varnished, oiled or waxed finish already applied to them and so are protected, coloured and finished, ready to hang.

    A veneer is a thin decorative layer of wood applied to a coarser wood for a decorative finish. It can be treated or untreated.

    I hope that helps and please do let me know if you have any further questions.

    All the Best Sam.

  72. Peter Says:

    Hi

    Is Manns water based wood dye compatible with Fiddles Hard wax oil; I would like to lighten my unfinished oak doors further before oiling them.

    Thank you
    Peter

  73. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Peter,

    Yes you can use the Dye with the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil although it is important too not over work the oil on top of the dye, as this can pull the dye out.

    The problem may come from trying to lighten the wood as this can be difficult, test areas are the key to getting the finish that you want. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  74. Helen Says:

    Hi ,
    I’ve just purchased some clear pine doors from Howdens .
    They need to be finished ??
    Please can you recommend an easy to apply , low maintenance product which will protect the door .
    Many thanks

  75. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Helen,

    If you are looking for a natural look and feel to the wood then you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil it is easy to apply and maintain. If you have a ready up on the product and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  76. steve herron Says:

    Good evening.
    we had a new banister fitted quite a while a go now, unfortunately i was taken ill, so was not able to polish same, in the mean time,the bannister had darkened ( i quess with natural oils coming to the surface),plus off course, finger marks etc.

    could you be so kind as confirm what i should use to clean it up, as i wish to polish it in the near future,so the hall way has the finished look.. best regards Steve Herron

  77. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Steven,

    I would recommend wiping down the wood with some White Spirit and a Finishing pad this will help to remove the grease and dirt. If you find this is not enough you may need to lightly sand to remove any stubborn stains. Once back to bare wood you can then apply your polish. If you need any further advice on this or what are the best products to finish your wood in then please do let me know.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  78. Angela O'Neill Says:

    Hello Sam
    Really good article and advice! Wondered if you could help please.
    We’ve had 6 internal doors ( original 1930s) stripped/sanded and waxed by local company. We asked them to use a clear wax as we wanted a natural finish.
    We’re not happy with the finish as its patchy and most doors have light and dark areas on them.
    On one door there’s a very dark area/patch so it looks like its been burnt.
    Any advice on how this may have happened or if it can be fixed please.
    Many thanks
    Angela

  79. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Angela,

    Sounds disappointing, are you able to send me some photos to have a look at. You can send them FAO Sam to wood@finishes.direct and I will happily take a look and see if there is anything I can suggest.

    All the Best Sam.

  80. Lesley Lawrence Says:

    Hi I put in a solid american oak staircase, doors and skirting in to our new build home. This was about 6 years ago and they finished it in danish oil. The problem was it didn’t look great at the time and still doesn’t. I wanted a polished effect and instead have a matt finish. Basically it still looks untreated. I looked in to French polishing but this was very expensive is there anything that would give me this same effect?
    Many thanks
    Lesley

  81. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Lesley,

    You could have a look at Osmo Polyx Oil it is available in a glossy sheen, but this although shiny is not a high glossy that you can get with varnish.

    For a real high shine you could have a look at the Extra Tough Floor Varnish which is available in a Super Gloss, but you would need to remove any oil left on the wood before application.

    Both products are easy to apply and are beneficial in different ways. If you have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any questions.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  82. Angela O'Neill Says:

    Thank you very much indeed I’ll try and get some photos to you asap

  83. zakiyya Says:

    hi.

    I have just bought solid meranti wooden doors for my two bedrooms a bathroom and guest toilet. with a wooden door frame. pls advise whether I shld use a clear oil or tint it to a darker colour. if i use a tint would that prevent me from changing the colour of the door in future,since the oil penetrates into the wood?
    I’m very confused about what to do.

  84. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello,

    You are able to use either Tinted Oil or Clear Oil for this wood, although it would require very thin application, as this is a tropical hard wood. It is likely to penetrate less than 1mm of the surface of the wood.

    It would be fair to say that once colour is applied it is not very difficult to remove over time with sanding and wiping over with Methylated Spirit. And you are able to apply darker colours if you wanted.

    They key is good preparation and test areas to ensure you like the colour that can be achieved. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  85. Lee Says:

    Hi

    I’ve just bought some unfinished solid oak doors. The door instructions says they need to be varnished or waxed but i like how they look now and really don’t want to varnish them.

    Can you recommend how best to finish the doors so they keep the natural look that they have now

    Many thanks
    Lee

  86. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Lee,

    You could have a look at Wax Polish this will leave the wood looking very natural, it will offer a little protection but nothing like the durability of an Oil or Varnish.

    For a more durable finish you could consider a Manns Door Oil it is an all in one oil that dries clear and Matt leaving the wood looking and feeling natural.

    If you have a read up of those products and let me know if you have any further questions, I will be happy to help.

    Kind regards Sam.

  87. Tony Woo14 Says:

    Hi I read somewhere that I should not use a solvent based wood dye? but a Water base wood dye. Can you advise please.

    Many thanks in advance Tony

  88. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Tony,

    Both are suitable for a variety of projects and should you wish to let me know a little more about your project I will be happy to advice further on which may be the best for you. A water based stain will give a more natural hue but is likely to raise the grain slightly, requiring denibbing between coats.

    The solvent stain can give a more intense colour finish and is less likely to raise the grain.

    I hope that helps and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  89. Craig Says:

    Hi

    I have recently installed three travis Perkins oak veneered doors (part ref 480439)

    I looking for a clear Matt finish, what would you recommend? The label suggests paint, varnish or woods stain none of which I want to use.

    Any ideas? It does say wax and oil not recommend

  90. Taylor Says:

    Hello Craig,

    Many manufacturers do not recommend the use of oils as they believe that it can cause the adhesion to fail on the veneer. Here at wood finishes Direct we do not believe this to be true, however if you use oil or wax then it is likely to invalidate any guarantee that you have with your new doors.

    Because of this it only leaves you with the option of using a varnish Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is a great option with a range of sheen levels including matt. It is available in a sample size as well to allow you to try a test area.

    Should you choose to use an Oil which will give a more natural look and feel to the wood then I suggest the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil but of course bear in mind your gaurentee.

    Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions or if there is anything else I can help with.

    Kind regards Samantha.

  91. Andrew Dawe Says:

    Hi. I recently purchased 8 Wickes Cottage style oak veneer internal doors. They are unfinished and I like the look of them as they are. I’d like to finish them in something that will leave the natural look. The instructions say not to use oil on them. Can you advise on the best product to use to achieve the look closest to their current unfinished state please. Many thanks.

  92. Taylor Says:

    Hello Andrew,

    I can recommend the Supreme Wax. It will leave the doors looking very natural and nourished. There is little protection with this product however and as an alternative you could have a look at the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish it is more durable and hard wearing but slightly less natural looking.

    If you have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Samantha.

  93. Geoff Brindle Says:

    I have just had 7 Wickes oak veneer doors fitted and intend to varnish them. I gather that applying varnish is required to seal the door to prevent moisture getting in and subsequent warping. However the doors have already been hung and i am concerned that i will not be able to varnish the bottom edge of the doors unless i take them off. Given that they are heavy and i paid to have them fitted in order to avoid having to attach them i wanted to know if there is much risk if i leave the bottom edge unsealed. One door is a bathroom door and another is a toilet door and i suspect that these would be the most vulnerable. Your advice would be appreciated.

  94. Sam Says:

    Hello Geoff,

    The Varnish is to seal and protect the wood from the likes of moisture and humidity damage as well as make it easy to clean and protect the wood long term. Generally I would not expect the bottom being untreated to be a problem but I can not make guarantees I am afraid. The bathroom door could be a concern if untreated, the door may swell or shrink, but only if it is really exposed to the effects of moisture regularly. If you are really worried it could be worth checking with your manufacturers but I would not believe it to be to much of an issue.

    Kind regards Samantha.

  95. Joe Says:

    Hello, i recently bought some deanta walnut veneered doors. In the process of hanging them my carpenter noticed small cracks about 10cm in length in the lipping both at the hinge side and the opposite end. The retailer where we bought the doors refuses to accept fault in delivery or the product and blames the storage of the doors prior to hanging. Is there any recommended product to repair or stain over the cracks in the veneer? Thank you

  96. Sam Says:

    Hello Joe,

    Are you able to send me some photos of the problem, to wood@finishes.direct and I will be happy to take a look for you. You could have a look at the Wax Sticks which is ideal for hairline cracks and comes in a wide range of colours.

    Kind regards Samantha.

  97. Simon jenman Says:

    Hi,

    Recently purchased 4 x untreated oak Vaneer internal doors, very much like the colour they are at present.

    I’m aware I need to treat them, could you tell me the advantage of, varnish, wax or oil? Is one better longer lasting?

    I do have a 5 year old son and all the doors are for upstairs including bathroom and 3 x bedrooms.

    I’ve looked at the omro polxy oil looks like it might do the job but also unsure of the finish ( Matt, semi Matt etc) which has the most non shiny natural finish?

    Many thanks

    Simon

  98. Sam Says:

    Hello Simon,

    The Osmo Polyx Oil is certainly a good option and one that we often recommend for doors, it is just worth checking that your doors do not come with a list of products that are not suitable for use. Many manufacturers advice against using oils as they believe that they can effect the adhesion of the veneer. This is not something that we believe to be an issue however it could impact on your guarantee if you do use something they advice against.

    I would also recommend the Osmo’s Base Coat for the bathroom door. It is ideal for use in rooms that have a variable temperature and humidity. The sheen level for the oil is quite subtle and the matt is very flat with no shine, where as the semi matt will have a very mild shine to it. The Polyx Oil is available in sample sizes to alow you to try a test area first.

    I hope that helps and if you have any further questions feel free to email wood@finishes.direct or call our free phone number 0800 781 8123.

    Kind regards Samantha.

  99. Carol fardy Says:

    Hello, I have been plastering a wall and some of the plaster dropped onto a new solid oak door that has need stained, it has taken some of the stain off, what can I do ?? Many thanks Carol

  100. Sam Says:

    Hello Carol,

    I would recommend that you lightly sand the effected area and restain. If you no longer have the original stain or do not know what it was, please feel free to get in touch via email at wood@finishes.direct with a photograph of the door and any relevant information such as if it is an oil or varnish on the door. And hopefully I can help further to resolve the issue that you have.

    Kind Regards Samantha.

  101. Ross Innes Says:

    Hi Sam, I’ve just had an oak staircase and banister fitted. What products would you recommend to see and finish? The joiner recommended Ronseal ultra tough polyurethane varnish but is there a better alternative? Many thanks. Ross.

  102. Sam Says:

    Hello Ross,

    There are basically two option for a project like this, the first is to apply Varnish which is the more durable product and will last longer. It is a seal on the surface of the wood. The second is an Oil which is also durable and hard wearing but less so than the varnish. It soaks into the surface of the wood and gives a more natural look and feel to the wood.

    The Oil finish although not as long lasting as the varnish is far easier to repair and maintain over time, so both have there plus side. If you have a read up of the recommended products and feel free to let me know if you have any questions. Always try a test area first.

    Kind regards Samantha.

  103. Matt Palmer Says:

    Hi. I’ve just had 7 York internal oak Veneer doors fitted from wickes. The carpenter that fitted them suggested using Danish oil. I know of the warranty being invalid but which is the easiest to put on, oil or varnish. And which would need the least upkeep?

    Many thanks

    Matt

  104. Sam Says:

    Hello Matt,

    A varnish will be longer lasting and more durable than an oil. However an oil is easier to repair and maintain over time and gives a more natural look and feel to the wood.

    With no damage, I would expect the varnish to last 5 – 10 years, whereas the oil will likely be more like 2-4 years for doors. But the varnish will need to be removed if it gets damaged whereas the oil can simply be over coated when needed. If you have a look at the recommendations and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Samantha

  105. Geraldine Says:

    Our flat is 10 years old…we moved in 4 years ago. Heavy oak doors throughout but have no idea of their finish…builders went out of business. I would like to know best way to clean off greasy finger marks, especially on dirty edges. I used a spray wood polish and removed some black dirt from the edges but don’t want to proceed further without advice. Also my kitchen is oak and cherry wood…have used warm mildly soapy water (Fairy liquid) for sticky stuff, then used spray polish. I used to be a shiny Formica finish girl but I’ve learned to appreciate the feel and look of wood.
    Regards Geraldine

  106. Sam Says:

    Hi Geraldine,

    Its difficult to advice of how to clean without knowing what the finish is. Often we advice White Spirit , however if the doors are oiled then white spirits will remove the oil as well and the marks.

    If you are able to get a drop of oil on a horizontal surface, if the door has some decorative detail, then you can leave the drop of oil ( vegetable or olive ) on the surface for 30 minute to an hour. If the oil remains unmoved then you are likely to have a varnish, where as if the oil soaks in or move you may have an oil or wax finish. This will help to move forward with what can be adviced for cleaning. You can email me via the contact page if that is easier.

    Kind regards Samantha.

  107. Gemma Says:

    Hi there,
    We have solid oak doors that came untreated. I have purchased some bees wax from a honey farm as don’t want the doors coloured but before I apply I need to clean then as the babies sticky fingers have left marks. What’s the best cleaning tips I have been apprehensive about using anything on them and risking discolouring patches. Also, what’s the best cloth and method for applying the wax when cleaned? Thank you 🙂

  108. Sam Says:

    Hello Gemma,

    If warm soapy water does not work to remove the finger prints then try wiping down with some White Spirit this should remove the marks, any stubborn stains may need sanding back. Once clean and dry you re ready to apply your Beeswax. Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind Regards Samantha.

  109. Sheila Says:

    Help !
    I recently bought a couple of beech coloured veneered/laminated wardrobes one of which had a slight scratch on the front of the door. I tried to get rid of it by polishing it with furniture wax polish which has only made the scratch more noticeable as there is now a large shiny area around it from the wax polish. What can I do to get rid of this polish mark and then deal with the scratch mark ?
    Many thanks.

  110. Sam Says:

    Hello Sheila,
    Are you able to email FAO Sam wood@finishes.direct, me with a little more information and some photos ? I need to know how modern this furniture is, what type of wood the veneer is and if there is any current treatment on the veneer ? From there, hopefully I can advice further.

    All the Best Samantha.

  111. marcia Says:

    Hello,

    I have been reading FAQ on your online site.

    Our home has the original 1930’s plain doors and some wood paneling (not the cheap stuff we see today). I want to remove the years of grime (I now have added some hairspray to our bathroom wood door) and restore its shine.

    I do not want to refinish all the doors, just clean it & give it its glow back. ?

    I appreciate your help & time.
    Marcia

  112. Samantha Taylor Says:

    Hello Marcia,

    To clean the doors you can wipe down with Methylated Spirits this will help to remove grease and dirt. The doors may benefit from a light sand or clean with an Abrasive Pad in the direction of the grain.

    This should help and if you would like any further advice on products to apply once lean an d dry please do get back in touch.

    Kind Regards Samantha.

  113. Val Says:

    Hello
    We need to widen doorways and replace all the doors with 33″.
    We would like a wood finish and have found some styles we like in unfinished Oak. They are all solid core with veneer.
    What stain would be best to tone the Oak to complement a Sapele Herringbone Parquet floor?
    Some products say no oil, others say oil is Ok. We’d like to use oil, but am assuming suitability depends on how thick the veneer is. What’s the minimum for oil? We so far haven’t found anything over 0.6mm

    Thanks
    Val

  114. Samantha Taylor Says:

    Good Morning Val,

    Applying an Oil to a veneer is often not recommended as it is believed to cause issues with the adhesion of the veneer, that said we have not come across a customer who has experienced this yet. Also using an oil can invalidate any guarantee you may have with your doors if they are new.

    An alternate product to consider is the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish which will give durability and protection. And the Manns Classic Oak Stain will give you colour. The water based stain is very versatile and can be intermixed to create a new colour or lightened by adding water, so that you can achieve the desired effect.

    The key to getting the finish that you want will be test areas and both the above products are available in sample sizes. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

    Kind Regards Samantha.

  115. Amanda Coster Says:

    Hi
    I have just purchased untreated pesaro solid oak doors. I treated one side of one of the doors with colron medium oak wax but its too dark for my liking.
    a) can i strip that off easily enough (if not i can hide that side on the inside of the cupboard door.
    b) what colour wax would you suggest to make it lighter – i wanted a light oak but struggling to find anything.

    Thank you in advance
    Kind Regards
    Amanda

  116. Samantha Taylor Says:

    Hello Amanda,

    Wax can be removed with a product such as Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover and a Finishing Pad. Always try a test area first.

    Applying a lighter stain or product to a darker wood will not lighten it. You may be able to maintain it current colour using Fiddes Hard Wax Oil this is an oil that protects the wood whilst leaving it looking as unchanged as possible. Again a test area is recommended.

    I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

    Kind regards Samantha.

  117. Aimee Fairweather Says:

    Hi there,

    We have natural oak veneer doors throughout our house, which are finished in clear varnish. We have had them for around 2 years and recently I have noticed large dark marks just above the door handles, caused by greasy hands. I have read the other posts that advice using white spirit or methylated spirit and/or sanding them back. Can you please advise if this would be the same for clear varnished oak veneer doors and if so would white spirit or methylated spirit be best? Also what do you do first, sand them or try cleaning them with one of the spirits? Once they are clean should we just give them another coat of clear varnish where the geasy stain was?

    Thank you so much in advance!

    Aimee

  118. Samantha Taylor Says:

    Hello Aimee,

    Greasy marks can often be removed with Methylated Spirit a bit of a scrub with a cloth and then clean with soap and water. This should remove most or all of the dirt and grease. Sanding will have an impact on the varnish and so should be avoided. patch repairing varnish can be difficult and leave clear join lines. An all over coat will give a smoother more even finish.

    I hope than helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate too get in touch.

    Kind Regards Samantha.

  119. Robert McConnell Says:

    I have Howdens doors and although they suggest not oiling them I have oiled them with Osmo High Solid clear satin 3060 Door oil. All doors have had two coats all have dried and there does not appear to be a problem – or does it take time for the reaction between the veneer glue and the oil to react?

  120. Samantha Taylor Says:

    Good Morning Robert,

    We have had no feedback of oils causing veneers to peel away from other customers. Years ago when this first became an issue the adhesives were not as good as they are now, and on occasions would come away easily, this is no longer the case and although I can not guarantee that it won’t happen, I do believe that it is very unlikely.

    If you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

    Kind regards Samantha.

  121. Kev Richardson Says:

    Hi Sam
    I’ve had oak veneer doors fitted 5 years ago and used danish oil which gave them a horrible orangey colour!! I’m replacing them now and have had 2 new ones fitted. I love the colour of them untreated and want to keep them as near to that colour as possible. What’s the best thing to use to keep them as near to the untreated colour as possible.
    Cheers Kev.

  122. Samantha Taylor Says:

    Hello Kev,

    My recommendation would be to look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural this is a protective finish that is designed to leave the wood looking as untouched as possible. Often clear oils will darken the wood slightly, this one contains a minute amount of white pigment to counteract that, it is available in sample sizes and a test area is strongly recommended.

    I hope that helps and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get back in touch. And don’t forget to check out our You Tube Videos >>> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7-tgwbsUxm73aVnAjLGHRA?view_as=subscriber for helpful hints and tips.

    Kind Regards Samantha.

  123. Dave Says:

    Hello,
    I have bought an internal American oak veneered door. The instructions say only use oil based varnish, paint or stain. Can I use an oil based lacquer as well? I like others would like to keep its natural light colour. What do you suggest I use? Thanks

  124. Samantha Taylor Says:

    Good Afternoon Dave,

    Manufacturers of Veneered doors are always quite cautious about what products can be applied to their doors as years ago many glues would be impacted by the finishing products and veneers would delaminate. This is now very rare.

    So you could have a look at the Cetol TSI from Sikkens. This is a solvent based stain with a range of colours and a colourless version. That will offer great protection to your wood. The colourless is likely to darken your wood very slightly and a test area is recommended.

    If you take a look at this product and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.

    Kind Regards Samantha.

  125. Ken B Says:

    Hi , again I have got 10 number Howden oak veneer doors, again I have read all the information regarding finishes to the doors, however if as you suggest to others above oil the doors this is still not going to seal them ?
    If I varnish them with a water based Matt varnish would this not be a better solution to the best finish, Howdens recommend in there outlets to use Osma oil yet as you say the information suggests to seal them

  126. Samantha Taylor Says:

    Hello Ken,

    The Polyx Oil from Osmo will certainly give more than enough protection to your doors. Two thin coats are all that is needed and this is still considered to be a seal for the wood. It is different to a varnish. Oil soaks in to the surface of the wood and dries hard, whereas varnish is a surface sealer.

    Varnish will last longer in terms of protection, however and oil is easier to maintain and repair. We do have some very helpful videos on our You Tube Channel that give great guidance >>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Umn0CgJpdSg&t=62s

    And if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. In regards to the PV67 that you also asked about, this is advised for flooring and bar tops as it is super protective, I would not really recommend it for doors as it is more for commercial use and is quite a smelly product.

    Kind Regards Samantha.

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