Which is the best exterior wood treatment?

201

The sun is out and temperatures are on the rise. This is the time when we venture out to the garden to survey the surroundings, and draw up the list of maintenance tasks.

When talking about exterior wood finishes, there’s always an assumption that it’s about the decking, garden shed or fence. Although these are indeed the most common garden features that need maintenance after a winter of wind, rain and freezing temperatures, wooden window frames, doors and porches should also be checked and given attention if required.

It’s all about the knowledge

A question we get asked a lot here at Wood Finishes Direct is “What is the best exterior wood treatment?”. Unfortunately, there’s no single product that is better than another for every project and type of wood. In fact, deciding what product should be used can be a complex matter. That’s why we invest heavily in the training of our sales and service team, or as we call them, the SAS team. All of our support staff are rigorously trained so that they’re familiar with the products we stock, their properties and their suitability for any number of given scenarios. This means that we’re always able to give expert advice and guidance on which products and brands are best suited to your project .

top-wood-finishing-brands
Just some of the top brands available at Wood Finishes Direct

Exterior wood finishing types

Essentially, there are two types of exterior wood treatments, those that are absorbed into the surface of the wood such as oil based products and those that form a protective coating on the surface of the wood, both of which have their own unique characteristics and benefits.

Penetrative Wood Treatments

Penetrative wood treatments are the type of products that soak into the wood and protect from within such as decking oils, shed & fence treatments. These products are predominantly oil and wax based. They work by penetrating then drying in the surface grain of the timber to provide a tough, durable, weather resistant surface.

The key benefit of this type of product is that they are very easy to apply and maintain. When the finished surface starts to look tired and worn, it’s simply a case of re-applying a fresh coat. No need to sand, strip back or remove the old finish. Wood oils are very forgiving for patch repairs meaning that localised areas of wear are very easy to repair and blend in with the surrounding areas. Leading brands that specialise in these types of exterior wood finishing products include Osmo, Ronseal, BarrettineCuprinol and Holzol.

Exterior coating systems

What was once the realm of paints and exterior wood varnishes is now dominated by an array of ultra modern wood coating systems. Whereas old paints and varnishes had a reputation for cracking, flaking and peeling, modern coating systems have been scientifically developed to withstand the effects of weathering and the constant movement of the timber as a result of moisture and temperature changes.

Modern exterior wood coatings are flexible and durable meaning that they rarely need to be stripped back to bare wood if maintained correctly, a firm favourite for exterior joinery such as wooden window frames and doors. Brands such as Sadolin and Sikkens are designed in such a way that as the top coat wears over time, it starts to lose some of its colour and sheen. This is an indicator that the finish needs maintenance. Surfaces that require maintenance can be restored by following a few simple steps.

  • Wipe down with Methylated Spirit to degrease the old finish.
  • Lightly sand the surface to remove any ingrained surface dirt and debris. This also provides a key for the new top coat.
  • Wipe down a second time after sanding with Methylated Spirit to remove all traces of sanding dust and any residual grease from hands and finger tips.
  • Ones dry, a fresh top coat can be applied to restore the appearance and maximise protection of the timber.

Other brands that specialise in exterior coatings, translucent and opaque include Dulux Trade and Crown Paints. Also see Sadolin’s Superdec Opaque Wood Protection finish.

Any Questions?

If you have an exterior wood care project to tackle and are not sure which product to choose, give our resident wood experts a call. They’re able to provide free, expert wood finishing advice, so that you can make a well informed choice on which products are suitable for your project.

As well as giving advice, support and help, we also like to see the results of completed projects. If you have any before, during and after project pictures, and would like to share them with us and our community, please let us know.

201 COMMENTS

  1. Hi

    I am wanting to use Cuprinol garden shades paint on a new exterior wooden garage door, should i use a wood preservative first, if so which one.

    • Good Morning Daniel,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your question. Cuprinol recommend the application of the Cuprinol Wood Preserver this is a clear preserver that helps to prevent mould and decay. And can be used with the Garden Shades.

      Both are suitable for application to bare wood and if you currently have any product on the garage door then this may need removing first.

      For further advice please feel free to get in touch with one of our friendly advisers on 01303 213 838.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  2. Hi – I have some old pine floor joists I want to use on top of some concrete posts as a deck. I doubt the joists are pressure treated so my question is how best to treat them. I was thinking of wood preservative which I could paint on and dip the cut ends into. Would you suggest any additional or different treatment?

    • Good Afternoon Justine,

      You have it exactly right, a good quality preserver is the best place to start Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver , this can be use all over the wood including the cut ends if you want. You can stand the ends in a bucket of preserver for an hour or two to allow the wood to really soak up the preserver. Or for the cut end you could consider and End Grain product such as the Barrettine End Grain Preserver which is high in wax content to repel moisture.

      The more you can do before construction of the decking the better it will be for the wood and can certainly extend the life of the wood. You can then follow this with a top coat of Decking Oil that will repel moisture and for an oil that will also slow down UV damage you could have a look at the Barrettine Decking Oil which comes in a clear or coloured finish and it is fair to say that when you apply a coloured finish this will improve the level of UV protection that the wood gets.

      I am here to help should need any further advice.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  3. Hi, i have an untreated log cabin, so i believe i need a base wood preserver then a stain then a protective top coat.
    So im thinking Sadolin clear wood preserver, then one coat of Sadolin classic and 2 coats of Sadolin extra.This should last around 5 years before recoating. Sikkens sounds like a similar price/ quality.
    Alternatively, much cheaper 2 coats of Barrettine wood preserver, and 2 coats of Barrettine log cabin treatment.
    So how long would the cheaper option last before needing re coating? Would this provide similar protection levels, but just need re coating more often? Any other options you would suggest?
    Many thanks.

    • Good Afternoon Richard,

      You have all the right product combinations and options there. The Sikkens and Sadolin are as you say very similar products and are fairly equal in longevity and protection, so you can base this on colour required if you choose to use either of these products and they will last longer than the Preserver and Log Cabin Treatment.

      However the Barrettine Preserver and Oil have benefits of there own, as products that penetrate the wood surface they will not peel and flake over time and they are very easy to maintain. When you feel the wood needs a refresher coat you are able to simply reapply the oil to a clean dry surface, no need for sanding. And in terms of how long it will last this will very much depend on exposure to the elements, south facing may need maintenance sooner than other sides for example.

      To apply a coloured finish will also increase the UV protection of the wood and slow down the silvering process. With all product I would recommend a test area first to ensure you like the colour and finish that will be achieved.

      And for further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page or by calling one of friendly advisers on 01303 213 838.

      Best regards Samantha.

  4. Hi Samantha
    I’m replacing the shingles on my porch roof with new red cedar shingles. Can you advise which product you would recommend I could treat these new shingles with to give them the best protection please?
    Thanks
    Steve

    • Good Afternoon Steve,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Cedar shingle tend to not require a finish, certainly not immediately any how. Cedar is a naturally oil wood that is resistant to decay, which is why it is such a popular choice for cladding and shingles. If the tiles are new and fresh then application of any products could be problematic.

      So allow them to weather and if over time you feel that some protection is still needed then have a look at a good quality preservative followed by a top coat of oils to help aid moisture repellency and UV damage.

      If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  5. Hello Samantha.

    I am erecting an oak pergola to go above seats and shelving for which I have purchased iroko. This all fixes to white rendered walls and bases.

    I have two questions:

    In terms of protection, I would like to protect the colour of both woods and from reading your advice to others, the Osmo UV protection oil 250 seems a good option. Would you agree? Will this help protect the iroko from bumps and scratches (it is a slightly more delicate wood than I was expecting and will be subject to children, beer and bbqs (not necessarily all at the same time)).

    In planning my layout I left the wood on their bases, and came back from a heavy rain shower to find both woods had bled tannins over the render. Is there anything I can do to prevent this once the wood is fixed in position? And would you recommend anything to remove tannin stains if this is an unavoidable issue?

    Thank you!

    Chris

    • Good Morning Chris,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Iroko being a tropical hardwood will require a period of weathering before you are able to apply a protective products on it, this is because it is naturally high in oil content already and this will prevent or cause problems with the uptake of any protective treatment you are looking to apply. During this period you are able to wipe away and tannins that are leeching out with Methylated Spirits to help avoid staining and doing this regularly will help reduce future staining.

      When the wood has weathered and you are ready to apply a finish you could have a look at the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra this is a penetrating oil for exterior woods that will slow down the silvering effect of the sun. However for hardwoods such as the Iroko we more often recommend the Osmo Decking Oil because this is a thinner option more suited to hard woods. This one does not have UV protection however and will allow the wood to silver naturally.

      These oils will offer a moisture repellent finish to the wood, however, no finish will prevent scratches or dents, if the wood is impacted with some force it will still dent no matter what product you apply. For further product advice please feel free to get in touch via our contact us page or call one of our friendly advisers on 01303 213 838.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  6. Hi I am hoping you will be able to help. We have just bought a pressure treated wooden shed (not sure if the type of wood). The instructions say to give it a waterproof treatment. I’ve been looking at your website and I’m not sure she whether to go for a clear water seal treatment or a wood oil. To maintain the water seal would we need to sand/prep the wood once the original coat deteriorated? Or could we just add another coat (like I’ve read you can do with the oil wood stains).

    Thanks Sam

    • Good Afternoon Sam,

      So the pressure treatment is designed to help prevent mould and rot from forming, they vary from product to product and manufacturers can be vague in exactly what the protection offered. So here at Wood Finishes Direct we tend to recommend the use of a Preservative first, the Barrettine Premier Universal is a good clear one that will allow you apply most finishes over the top to then give a water repellent and UV protected finish.

      Ideal finishes for exterior oils that we tend to recommend for exterior wood such as sheds, log cabins and decking, for ease of maintenance. Oils will also penetrate the surface of the wood and will not peel and flake over time and decking Oils are very versatile and can be used for a wide range of exterior projects. For more advice feel free to get in touch via our contact us page or call and speak to one of our friendly advisers on 01303 213 838.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  7. Hello Samatha,
    I’m restoring a pine front door for some friends. It looks Victorian and originally it would have been painted but my friends bought it from a reclamation yard that had had it dipped/stripped so it is just bare pine now.
    They like the unfinished look that it currently has so want a finish that will change the colour as little as possible and have the minimum sheen (preferably matt).
    The door will be in an open porch so won’t get direct rainfall or sunshine but it’s Wales so it’s quite a damp environment and the sun has been known to shine.
    I know that the wood has been dried out by the stripping process and needs ‘feeding’ so I would be grateful if you could factor that in.
    Lastly, there is a little bit of filling required. Is there an external equivalent of the floor filling gels that can be mixed with sawdust?
    Many thanks
    Michael

    • Good Afternoon Michael,

      Thank you for your question. As the wood will be exposed to a damp welsh environment I would normally recommend a preservative first, this will help to prevent any mould or rot from damaging the wood, however this will darken the wood somewhat, particularly if it is very dry. If you wipe a damp cloth over the bare wood this will show you how much it will darken. As you do not want to change the colour you will need to skip this part and go straight to the finishing coat.

      For this I can recommend the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra in the Natural 429 finish. This is a clear oil with a minute amount of pigment to counteract the darkening you would normally get with a clear. It is designed to leave the wood looking as untouched as possible. However I would strongly recommend a test area first as the condition of the wood will impact on the finish and I do suspect that it may still darken a little. Sample sachets are available and if you have a read up of the product and get back to me if you have any questions.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  8. Hi,

    I’m about to start cladding a garden building with pine tongue and groove wood. I’ve been advised to put a first coat on the wood before I install it. I’m wondering if you could please advise me of an oil or varnish I can use that gives a light colour red cedar effect and is also a good wood preservative?

    Regards,

    Jason

  9. Hi there,
    I cladded a garage a few years ago with waney-edge Larch and it is a beautiful wood and very hard wearing and resilient which is why we chose it. It still looks great now but when it was first installed it had a deeper colour due to the natural moisture in the timber, it has dried out now so is a much lighter colour. Would an oil or something similar be any use it trying to get the deeper colour back as well as adding protection? I can show a picture of how it was if that is possible to add.
    Thanks, Mike

    • Good Afternoon Mike,

      Yes absolutely! Application of an oil will enhance, nourish and revive the appearance of the wood, on the condition that is has not totally silvered with UV damage. A clear oil will darken slightly to give what we call the ‘wet look’ and this will bring the appearance of the wood back to life.

      You could have a look at the a product like the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment which is a clear oil or if you think you would like to add a little colour then Barrettine Decking Oil is a good option to consider.

      You might also want to consider the application of a preservative before the oil, and this will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot.

      I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. And of course always try a test area first.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  10. Hi I have bought a used wooden garden set – the seller told me he used –
    Fiddes Exterior High Build Wood Oil – contains UV filters
    As it is so very expensive could you recommend anything that would do the same job please
    My neighbour mentioned Linseed oil
    Regards

    • Good Afternoon Eileen,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. My advice would be to stick with the Fiddes High Build wood Oil It appears slightly more pricey however a little goes a long way as all that is required is two very thin coats for new application or one thin coat for a top up. It can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3-5 years if kept at room temperature, for further maintenance at a later date.

      It is a very durable finish and will protect better than many of the soft oils such as Linseed or Danish. However if this is the route you wish to take then I would definately recommend Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil as good option. I would recommend a test area with any product you apply to ensure the wood is accepting more oil and that you like the finish that will be achieved.

      If there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to get int ouch via our contact us page.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  11. Hi

    I’m having a new shed delivered very soon. It’s a 10’x8′ apex shed in Tanalised wood.
    I’d like to oil preserve it. Can I use oil based products over tanalised timber? Any recommendations?

    And I’d like to paint on top a pale green – do you have any recommendations for this too?

    Or do you do a pale green oil that would do the job?

    Thanks

    Cliff

    • Good Afternoon Cliff,

      Thank you for coming over to Wood Finishes Direct with your question. The ideal product for your project will be the Cuprinol Garden Shades This has a wide range of colours that will suit your needs and can last for up to 5 years. If you take a look at the product and feel free to get back in touch via our contact us page if you have any further questions.

      Always try a test area first.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  12. Hi
    What would you recommend to preserve a hardwood door exposed to a lot of wind and rain stained with Colron wood dye
    Thanks Ian.

    • Good Afternoon Ian,

      The Coloron is probably in Interior product and so not one recommended for the exterior area of a door, however it can be over coated with Colron Refined Teak Oil which is a suitable finish for an exterior area.

      If you take a look at the product and read up to see if it is suitable for your project and also try a test area first. And if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  13. Hello
    I am having a new softwood shed built and the manufacturer says it will be delivered with one coat of ‘clear preservative’ on. I don’t know the type or brand. I want to achieve a final finish of a dark grey/charcoal colour with white window frames. The location is pretty damp as it is under trees so a treatment that is effective is important. If possible, I don’t want to be having to re-coat every couple of years and i don’t like the idea of a product that eventually flakes and needs removal before re-treatment. What can you suggest?
    Regards
    Andrew

    • Good Afternoon Andrew,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. To avoid a product that will peel and flake you could look at the Osmo Country Colour this is a penetrative oil that gives a paint like opaque finish. It has a great range of colours to choose from and may be ideal if you wood is smoothfinished and the preservative does not have any wax in it.

      If the preservative that they have applied contains wax this will cause problems for application of many treatments including the Osmo above and paints. The wax will repal and cause adhesion problems and so if you are able to check with the manufacturers to see this will help with recommendations.

      Please always try a test area first and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  14. Hi,

    I am installing a front porch using Meranti (new) hardwood frame and (used) mahogany doors. What would you recommend for maximum protection of both? A mixture of weather where I live but I suppose rain more so. Thanks.

    • Good Afternoon,

      There are many product that you are able to consider for your project. As a starting point and assuming all the wood is sanded and with out any previous treatments remaining. I will advice the Sikkens Cetol Range as a long lasting protective finish for your wood. Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus one coat of this followed by two coats of the Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 the combination of the two will allow flexibility to cope with the changes in environment and is a moisture repellent finish. The colour will offer UV protection to slow down the silvering impact of the sun.

      Good preparation and test areas are key to a good finish and wiping over with Methylated Spirits first to de grease and clean the surface before application is recommended.

      If you have a read up of the products and of course I am here to help if you have any further questions, via our contact us page.

      Kindest Regards Samantha.

  15. Hi , I have a new corner shed /summerhouse fitted under conifers and will get a lot of damp in the future , I will use the Barrettine wood preserver on the viewed parts of the shed , what if I were to use a more sealed type of coating like a roof coating to keep out the damp on the hidden sides of the shed or would this starve the wood and make it dry out.
    Regards
    George.

    • Good Morning George,

      Honestly, I am not sure about using a roof coating such as felt for the hidden sides. However I can recommend a very durable and waterproofing product that you could consider Barrettine Water Seal two coats of this will give an moisture repellent membrane to the surface of the wood.

      If you take a look at this product and feel free to get back to me via our contact us page

      Kind regards Samantha.

  16. i have a house cladded completely with pine
    The north face is ok but the south has taken a beating from the sun and cold winters and will need sanding completely and re-protecting
    Its a very large property and i want to use the best product available
    What would you suggest
    Regards and Happy New Year
    David

    • Hello David,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your question. There area wide range of options suitable for cladding so I will give you two options to consider. The first is the Sikkens HLS Plus this is a solvent based stain that will offer a long, durable and flexible finish. Three coats applied will last around 5 years although south facing can be reduced depending on the weather it is exposed to long term.

      Alternatively you could consider an exterior oil such as Barrettine Decking Oil or Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain , this will penetrate the surface of the wood to give a moisture repellent surface. Oils will not last as long as the Sikkens for example but it is easier to maintain and repair. No peeling and flaking or stripping back, just patch repair or re apply a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it. I would expect this to be annually for an exposed South facing area.

      If you take a look at the above and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. Always try a test area first.

      All the Best Samantha.

  17. Hi Samantha,
    My husband & son are building a wooden studio (Billy oh), log-cabin type;
    and previously they have built a lager cabin, using coats of Sadoline to preserve it.
    In your opinion, is the Cuprinol equivalent to Sadoline in terms of performance
    & lasting, or should we stick to Sadolin? (I like Cuprinol’s grey colour.)
    Also is it necessary to lightly abrade both Sadoline & Cuprinol before applying a new coat?
    Many thanks for your interesting replies.

    • Good Afternoon,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Both brands are very good and it will depend on the look you are hoping to achieve. The Cuprinol Garden Shades can offer up to 6 years protection when applied under the right circumstances, it will give an opaque paint finish.

      Sadolin are also a very good range and have a variety of products from translucent natural wood coloured stains to opaque paints. Protection could be slightly longer with the Sadolin, however this very much depends on the conditions and weather it is exposed to over time. South facing sides for example can wear away quicker then other sides and require maintenance sooner rather than later.

      I would also recommend a good quality preserver to be applied first to help prevent mould, mildew and rot. The right preserver will depend on the product you choose to finish in and for further advice please feel free to get in touch via our contact us page.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  18. Hi there,

    We are renovating a stone cottage and we have recently installed a new roof. The roof has new pine gluelam beams and is lined underneath with new pine planks. The beams and planks also extend to the exterior where they cross the stone walls, and there is also some pine planking outside on some of the vertical surfaces, for example just below the guttering.

    So far, all this pine has been treated with linseed oil, inside and outside, but having just discovered your excellent website we are wondering if we should be using a different product.

    Also, we have created some new windows using reclaimed sweet chestnut wood for the lintels. Based on other advice you have given we are planning to treat these with Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. Does this sound like a good choice?

    Thanks for any help you can provide.
    Regards, David

    • Hello David,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. The Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is ideal for exterior areas. It is a penetrative oil that dries hard and will help to keep the wood moisture repellent. It will also slow down the silvering process caused by UV damage. This oil will certainly give more protection to the wood than a Linseed oil and although we do still recommend regular maintenance, annually or biannually, it will be less than that required of a Linseed oil.

      For the interior areas you could look at the Osmo Polyx Oil which is also a clear penetrative oil that will protect the wood. A little goes a long way as just two very thin coats are required for application. Its easy to be put off by the price however its coverage is exceptional.

      The clear oils will darken the wood very slightly to give the ‘wet look’ and sample sizes are available in both products that will allow you to carry out test areas first.

      If you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to let me know.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  19. We have installed an external wooden door at the back of our house. It is made from Sapele hardwood. I do not want to paint it but rather leave the natural wood finish. Could you recommend which product or products I should use to weatherproof it?
    thanks
    John

    • Hello John,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. For a natural look and feel to the wood I would recommend and exterior oil such as the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra this is a clear protective finish that will slow down the silvering caused by sun and repel moisture.

      I would strongly recommend a test area first as you have hard wood and you need to ensure that the UV Protection will soak in. If you do have problems with absorption and find you need a slightly thinner oil there is the Osmo Decking Oil this one does not have UV filters however and so will allow the wood to silver quicker. Both the above are available in sample sizes and both will darken the wood slightly, enhancing the grain.

      I hope that helps and always try a test area first.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  20. Hi
    I’m building a fence from planed untreated softwood. I’m after a black finish. Not fussed if it is matt or has a sheen but not gloss. There’s a lot of timber so thinking of an easy (lazy) solution…. Would you recommend a couple of coats of bituminous paint? If so, which product is best. If not, how come, and can you recommend a better alternative please?
    Many thanks
    Jon

    • Good Afternoon Jon,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your question. There are a few products that can be considered for you project starting with a Black Preservative such as Ronseal Shed and Fence If this product is over-coated with a clear exterior wood oil or decking oil, it will retain its preserving properties for around 5 years. This is only if the exterior wood oil or decking oil is re-applied and maintained on a yearly basis.

      There is also the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative in black.

      For decking oils to complete the job you could have a look at the Ronseal Decking Oil or Barrettine Decking Oil in clear. Or alternatively the Osmo Decking Oil in Black 020. The Osmo is only advised for smooth wood however as take up on rough sawn will be very high.

      Test areas are always advised and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  21. Hi Samantha. I am sanding down a slice of horse chestnut, 1m diameter, to make an outdoor table. The colour of the wood is almost white, but with some interesting markings and quite a few fine radial cracks. I would like to retain the whitish the colour but protect it from the elements. What finish would you recommend?
    Thanks, John

    • Hello John,

      If the wood has been dried and is ready for treatment then I would recommend the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra in the 429 natural finish. This penetrative oil has a minute amount of white pigment in it to counteract the darkening effect that you would normally get with a clear product.

      Two thin coats are all that is required for this product and I would recommend finishing your sanding at 120 – 150 grit. This ensures the grain is not too tight for accepting the oil. And test areas as always are recommended to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved and because we do not get many inquiries about Horse Chestnut its important to see how the oil works on this particular wood.

      I would also recommend a top up coat annually if exposed to the elements all year round, the horizontal area of the table will wear quick than any other area and if you can avoid standing water this will prolong the life of the oil and in turn the life of the wood.

      It is the best product available for leaving the wood looking as natural as possible.

      If you have any other questions I am here to help.

      All the Best Samantha.

  22. Hi Samantha,
    I’m making myself a gardening tool for a project and I was looking for a good finish for a wooden handle. It would have to be durable, water/weather resistant and ideally not have to be reapplied often. I was looking at penetrative treatments but I would be interested in whatever you thought was best.
    Thanks very much,
    Jack

    • Good Afternoon Jack,

      Thank you for getting in touch with you enquiry. You could start with Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra as a starting point, this is a penetrative oil that will slow down the silvering process and help protect the wood from moisture. It requires just two very thin coats for application and so a little goes a long way. I suspect that the 125ml tin will be plenty for you and if stored well can be used for maintenance coat years down the line.

      Another option would be to look at the Liberon Pure Tung Oil which is a very moisture repellent natural oil that can be applied in a number of coats and topped up when you feel the wood needs it.

      If you take a look at those two and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions or you can use or contact us page.

      Many Thanks Samantha.

  23. Hi Sam, We bought a few raised garden beds which come in pieces to assemble. The are the normal pre-treated softwood sleepers which are approx 300mm wide x 200mm thick. I thought it may be a good opportunity to protect these and wondered which product would be best. We would like a walnut colour but happy to keep the light green pre-treated colour.

    • Good Morning Subodh,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. You could have a look at a Decking Oil such as the Barrettine Decking Oil although marketed for decking it is a very versatile product that can be used for a wide range of projects including your raised bed. The oil will penetrate the wood to give a moisture repellent finish and the colour will slow down the silvering effect of UV damage.

      The darkest colour in this range is the Dark Oak, you could also look at the Holzol Decking Oil which also has some slightly darker colour that may suit your needs.

      If there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  24. Hi Samantha,

    We have just put up contemporary horizontal slat fences from Grange which are described as pressure treated ‘Green Timber’.

    We want to use a stain that will give a natural warm golden light colour (like a red cedar, beech or walnut) we really dont want it to look painted.

    Please could you recommend something?

    Thanks,
    Kate

    • Good Morning Kate,

      Thank you for your question. You could have a look at the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain this is a penetrative oil that gives colour and protection with just two thin coats. There is a wide range of colours available and sample size sachets, I would recommend these for a test area first as the wood that you are applying to will have an impact on the colour that will be achieved.

      The natural oil woodstain can also be intermixed to create an alternate colour if there is not one in the range that gives the desired look. Test areas are strongly recommended and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  25. Hi, i have a number of fence panels which i purchased about 6 months ago, they are pressure treated in a very pale oak looking finish ,however, i want to retain the original colour ( I don’t subscribe to the often description” my panels have turned into a ‘lovely silver’ shade). My query is what would you recommend to treat my fence panels, would a clear finish preservative help keep the present pale oak shade of the wood? Many Thanks.

    • Good Morning Clifford,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. It can be difficult to retain the natural colour of the wood and get good UV protection, so I will recommend two products for you to consider. The first is the Barrettine Decking Oil although marketed for decking it is a very versatile product and can be used for a wide range of exterior project. It has UV stabalisers to slow down the silvering, however it will not stop it. With regular maintenance you will be able to maintain a good natural colour for years to come.

      The best way to protect wood from UV damage will always be to apply colour, even a light colour, the pigments act as sunscreen and the darker the pigment the better the protection.

      The second product to consider is the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra if your wood is smooth this could be the best clear product on the market for UV protection. It requires two very thin coats for application and so a little goes a long way and is not suitable on rough sawn wood.

      Both the above will darken the wood slightly and it is very important to try test areas first to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. And for extra protection I would also recommend the application of a good preservative first, this will help prevent mould, mildew and rot. A popular choice and one suitable for use under the oils is the Barrettine Premier Universal Preservative which is a clear treatment, that will slightly darken the wood.

      If you take a look at the above options and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions at all.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  26. I have quite old wooden windows that have been maintained, since new, with sikkens cetol hls plus and cetol filter 7 . I want to take one of them from the current mahogany reddish brown colour to Anthracite Grey (to match RAL 7016). I don’t really want to spend too much as they are coming to their end of life. What product would you recommend? I was considering buying a sample of the OSMO country colour to see if the products were compatible but would be grateful for any advice.

    • Good Afternoon Giselle,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry, the Osmo and Sikkens are not compatible products and in order to use the Osmo Country Colour needs to be applied to bare wood as it has to soak into the surface of the wood. Two thin coats are all that is required and any remaining Sikkens will prevent this from occurring.

      The Ral colours are not available in sample sizes as they are mixed to order and are non refundable or returnable unless faulty, this does make it difficult to try test areas, and we always recommend these at Wood Finishes Direct, as the wood that you are applying to will impact on the finish that will be achieved.

      For further advice please feel free to get in touch with us via our contact us
      page.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  27. Hi there
    I have some garden furniture that I need to preserve . When I bought it last year it was treated with Lorson preservative that has now worn off . I want to treat it with another preservative that will preserve and be water resistant over the winter . Was going to go for clear for now (can’t decide on a colour ) as I intend to stain it in the spring . What do you advice . Thanks

    • Hello Maria,

      You could have a look at the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative this is a great all rounder, it protects against mould, mildew and rot and also contains some wax to repel moisture.

      I would strongly recommend test areas first to ensure compatibility with the pre existing treatment and that you like the finish that will be achieved.

      For further advice or to order your can call our friendly team on 01303 213 838 or use our contact us
      page.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  28. Hi, can you help please, we have recently moved to a new property and we have a double garage made if wood, it has weathered as it under trees etc and needs treating, it appears to have some sort of wood stain on it which is fairly dark (walnut colour which we are happy with)the side and back are turning green which appears to be a light moss we have started rubbing this down with a grit sand paper, there is no rot anywhere that we can see, but don’t have a clue what we should paint it/treat it with and wondered if you could recommend the best product/products to use at this stage on it, we are wanting to keep it looking natural with something that will last and so we don’t have to repaint it too often there are loads of birds and squirrels around it look forward to any advice you may have?

    • Good Afternoon Pippa,

      Thank you for sending in your question. It can be difficult to narrow down a suitable product when you are unsure of the current finish, this often happens when people move into new properties.
      The green on the back is probably algae and can be cleaned up with Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner this will help to clean off any spores also.

      In terms of what to apply over the top to protect it will depend on the current finish, perhaps if you could let me know if it is like a paint or surface sealer ? Or if it appears to have soaked into the surface of the wood? Is it moisture repellent, if you splash some water at it does it bead off or soak in? And is the wood rough sawn or smooth?

      If you would like to get back to me with this information to wfd.advice@wood-finishes-direct.com and maybe send some photos in also, I may be able to help further and narrow down some options for you.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  29. Hi,
    we have a new external sliding door in the barn, made of spruce wood. How to protect them in the best way? We would like to colour them too.
    Thank you, Ann

    • Good Afternoon Ann,

      Thank you forgetting in touch with your question. There are a couple of products you could have a look at, preserver will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. And they can come in clear or coloured finishes, a popular choice is the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative

      You could also look at an exterior oil such as a decking oil, although marketed for decking it is a very versatile product and can be used on a wide range of exterior projects. If you stick with same brand there is the Barrettine Decking Treatment which also comes in clear or a coloured finish.

      For a long lasting protection you can apply one or two coats or the preservative followed by two coats of the oil. Always try a test area first and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  30. Hi, thank you for your web page packed with professional knowledge. We just purchased from you barretine products to protect our summer house and it looks works extreamly well on the wood ( assumed larch). Can you please advise if we can use barretine for our benches (with iron frames, which we rather would not like to cover for winter)?
    Or is it better to use linseed oil – if so raw or boiled?
    Thanks for any suggestion, Joanna

    • Hello Joanna,

      Can you let me know which of the Barrettine products you purchased and used on your summer house and I can tell you if it will be suitable for your bench also.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  31. Morning, I had some new windows and bi-fold doors installed two years ago and now need to stain/refresh them. They are Indigbo wood and were factory finished with 2 coats of preservative primer, one undercoat and one top coat when they were installed. Can you suggest anything, is it better to stain or seal? Thanks, Bernie.

    • Good Afternoon Bernie,

      I would really need to know what the current finish is ? Do you have a brand name ? As this will impact on what you can use moving forward, unless you are planning to sand back to bare wood first?
      And are you looking to treat the interior, exterior or both areas of the joinery. You can get in touch via our contact us page and I can advice you further.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  32. I’m trying to restore the balustrade on our balcony. So far I’ve sanded, removed the worst of the rot and applied Ronseal wood hardener. Later today I will use wood filler to repair where I’ve had to remove rotten wood. I guess that I’ll need to use a varnish type of finish rather than an oil because of the use of filler. Any recommendations – the wood is quite exposed being high up and facing the worst of teh weather and the best of the sun. Cheers Andy

    • Good Afternoon Andrew,

      Thank you for getting in touch. You could stick with Ronseal as you have used there hardener and filler and look at the Ronseal Yacht Varnish this is a solvent based, long lasting protective varnish.

      Or as an alternate option the Polyvine Decorators Varnish Regular checks and maintenance will help the upkeep of the wood and prevent future water ingress that causes rot. Any areas that begin to wear or peel and flake should be repaired sooner rather than later.

      I hope that helps, if you have a look at the products and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  33. Hi Sam I ve been reading with interest. We have a really old oak bench possibly 1920s which I’ve sanded down through layers of v old paint to mostly bare wood. I chose culprinol wood preserver to go under osmo UV protector for a clear finish. However, the culprinol packaging says it should only be used with varnish paint or woodstain. Will it not work with Osmo? Should I return the culprinol and just use Osmo’s UV? Appreciate your help.

    • Hello Sam,

      I would recommend the Osmo WR Basecoat this is a protective treatment to use instead of the Cuprinol. And will work well with the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra and protect against mould, algae and fungal attack.

      You will need to ensure that you have removed all of the previous treatment in order apply the Osmo effectively and test area are always recommended. If you purchased the Cuprinol from us just call our service team about returning on 01303 213 838 option 2.

      And if there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  34. Hi. I have a t&g fence treated with Barrettine premier wood preserver in rich mahogany. It needs retreating but the colour has been discontinued. I want to keep the mahogany colour, is there another product which I can use to recoat the fence and keep the mahogany shade? Thank you, Nicola

    • Good Afternoon Nicola,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. It is unfortunate that the Mahogany has been discontinued, it is not a popular colour at the moment as many brands have stopped the colour. Which is a shame as it is such a warm tone.

      The only products that you could consider is the Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain which has a Mahogany in its range, although how close it can is to the colour that you currently have I can not guarantee. This product is more suited to joinery but could be used on smooth wood fence panels, or the Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus which also has a Mahogany in its range.

      I hope that helps and of course if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know or get int ouch with one of our team on 01303 213838.

      Warmest Regards Samantha.

  35. I have two external wooden posted that have been treated with Morrells pre catalyst Lacquer. Is this suitable for external use? Or will I have to sand down and treat with something else

    • Good Afternoon Barbra,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. The Morrells 250 Pre Catalyst Lacquer is not suitable for use on exterior wood.

      If you are looking for a clear protective finish for your posts then I would recommend sanding back to bare wood and looking at the Sadolin Extra Durable Clearcoat as a good option. This is a extremely durable and flexible varnish that is ideal for exterior use.

      If you take a look at this and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions at all.

      Always try a test area first.

      Kindest Regards Samantha.

  36. Two weeks ago we had an enormous branch fall off our beech tree after a storm and now it has been milled and made into a beautiful plank to put on two round lumps of the same beech to make a bench. The plank is about 4″ thick. What’s the best way to protect it? It will be living outdoors for as long as it’s safe to sit on! I’m thinking Barretine Wood Preserver (how many coats?) followed by a couple of coats of Osmo UV oil. We have a green oak framed extension and use the Osmo UV on that – it looks great and is doing a good job. Hope you can steer us in the right direction! Thanks, Sarah

    • Good Afternoon Sarah,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. I would not recommend applying any product at this stage. The wood is ‘green’ this means recently felled and will have a high moisture content. Typically wood can a take a year per inch of depth to dry out, this will vary dependant on type of wood and location, but as a guide it give an indication of the long time that it takes for wood to dry out.

      Applying anything at this stage could result in sealing in the moisture which will damage the wood long term or the product not adhering to the surface in the way that it should. Allowing the wood to weather for while is the best option at this stage.

      Once you do feel that the wood is dry then you can apply a good quality preservative such a the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative, two coats. And for the best protection an exterior oil to go over the top will help to give moisture repellency Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil is a great option for most wood types.

      I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do no thesitate to get in touch.

      All the Best Samantha.

  37. Hi. Moved into a 1980s house with what looks like a walnut stain on all the facias barge boads ect . It looks in good condition but faded. I just want to freshen it up with a couple of coats of something similar that will weather well. What product would you recommend. In the old days it was oil based products that were best . Not sure anymore. Thanks in advance. Keith

    • Good Afternoon Keith,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your question. You could have a look at the Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain.

      It will always be best to apply to well prepared bare wood, however this product can be applied to previously stains timber, lightly abrade, in the direction of the grain, ensuring not to break through the surface coating, and removing any remaining sanding dust afterwards.

      If you take a look at this product and I am here to help if you have any further questions.

      Here at Wood Finishes Direct we always recommend a test area first.

      All the Best Samantha.

  38. Hi again Samantha,

    Thanks for the advice on the shed – I’ll take it up and will get my order in to you.

    Here’s another one for you: We also have a lot of new slatted screen fencing, made of horizontal Western Red Cedar battens 38mm x 19mm nailed to posts. The battens are sawn, not planed or sanded, and are untreated.

    We would like to keep the lovely natural cedar colour over time, and not let them weather to silver grey. The timber supplier recommends sanding them all down to open up the grain then applying a Sansin SDF treatment. Our installer says it’s better to use an oil (no specifics).

    What do you think our best option is?

    Thanks in anticipation,

    Jeremy

    • Hello Again Jeremy,

      The best way to stop the natural silvering process is to apply colour to the wood. Pigments act like sun cream the darker the colour the higher the factor, even a very light colour will improve the protection versus a clear product. So if you want to do that you could look at a Ronseal Decking Oil it has a range of natural colours including Cedar that may suit your needs and the ‘Natural’ in this range is a clear oil that will very slightly darken the wood.

      It would be fair to say that a rough sawn timber will absorb far more of any product applied to it and this is why I have recommended a decking oil, it is a very effective and durable protection that will be cost effective with the amount that you are likely to need.

      Sanding the wood some, will help to reduce the amount of product absorbed but can be a difficult job with fencing and not something that I would necessarily recommend. If you take a look at the decking oil, we do also have others on the website and if you have any questions at all please do let me know.

      And of course always try a test area first.

      All the Best Samantha.

  39. Hi Samantha,

    I have a month-old tantalised T&G shed, 10’x6′, that is currently untreated apart from the original tantalising. Two sides have restricted, difficult access, with only about 12-18″ clearance from the garden fence. I can probably reach with a roller on a pole, but brushing is probably not possible. Any treatment I apply to these sides will not be repeated for a long time!

    What treatment(s) and application methods would you advise? We would like a traditional wood shed colour, not too dark or too orange.

    Thanks in advance!

    Jeremy

    • Hello Jeremy,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your question. If you can bring yourself to apply two products and are looking for the best protection, my advice would be to apply two coats of the Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver followed by two coats of the Barrettine Decking Oil.

      The preservative will give you protection against mould, mildew and rot and the Decking Oil will give a moisture repellent finish. If this is a bit to much of a task for the areas that are hard to reach then you can look at two coats of the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative this will protect in the same way as the Universal above but also has a small amount of wax to help repel moisture, it is not as effective as an oil however.

      Application of with a roller is going to be a little messy as these products are quite thin but the more preservative you are able to get int o the wood the better. I hope that helps and if you do have any questions please do let me know.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  40. Hi,
    We have a Mahogany front door with side panels both with intricate detailing.
    They are currently covered in ronseal satin stain and looking a bit tatty.
    Can you recommend a product that will cover this up and bring back to a good finish please.

    Would prefer not to have to sand back to bare wood if at all possible…..

    Best regards
    Adam

  41. I have a wooden front porch and the timber along part of the base has rotted, I don’t want to renew the wood but would like to fill and paint over. What type of filler would you recommend ?

    • Good Morning Charlie,

      My best advice would be to replace any rotting wood but I appreciate that this is not always an available option and in this event you could have look at the Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener its a cost-effective, long-term alternative to replacing joinery affected by wet rot and soaks deep into the fibres of rotted wood to strengthen the wood from within.

      You can then follow this with Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler to fill and finish the damaged area.

      If you take a look at these products and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions via our contact page contact us page.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  42. Hi

    We have recently purchased a log cabin and are miffed with what paint to use to achieve a solid painted look, It has been treated for rot, fungi, insects etc

    we originally purchased the Cuprinol garden shades series but finding that requires 6 or more coats to even get near a solid colour (tested it on spare timber first) the log cabin is huge (5×4) and simply dont have the time (or patience) to paint it 6 or more times.

    Wanting a solid colour finish (grey/blueish colour) with little to no wood grain showing through, but not something thats going to break the bank (like with osmo)

    What would you suggest?

    Michelle

    • Good Afternoon Michelle,

      Thank you for your question, we have two exterior opaque finishing products that come in a wide range of colours. The first is the Cuprinol Garden Shades having used this myself on some cladding have found it to give a good opaque finish with two or three coats, it can depend on the colour you are using and the wood you are applying to but I would expect a timber log cabin to require just three coats to get the desired finish. The tin will need stirring all the way to the bottom to ensure the pigment is evenly distributed throughout the liquid, often pigments will sink to the bottom of the tin resulting in a slightly washed out look at the top.

      Another option is the Ronseal Garden Paint this to has a great range of colour options and will only require two to three coats for application. The two products are comparable in finish and durability however. Again full stirring for at least 5 minute to ensure the pigment is evenly distributed.

      I hope that helps and if you have any further questions feel free to contact us via our contact us page.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  43. I have recently made a cross as a grave marker made in mahogany, it looked lovely the colour was bright. Finished with spray polyurethane clear satin.
    One month later it looks vey tired, the sun has done it no favours an it looks in part quite grey and scruffy.

    Any advice please?

    Best

    Phil

    • Good Afternoon Phil,

      A clear product will give limited UV protection and if the product you have used does not have any UV protection this could be the reason that the wood has faded fairly quickly. Mahogany being a red in tone wood will be prone to fading slightly quicker than usual as this can be the nature of the colour red.

      Are you able to let me know what product you have used Phil and if you are planning to sand back ? Details can be sent to me via our contact us page and I will happily advice further.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  44. Hi, I have just ordered a log cabin. It is made from untreated pine and will house a hot tub. What treatment/stain would you recommend internally and externally, keeping as natural colour ass possible?
    So far I have looked at sadolin and sikkens. But not sure which is best. Thanks

    • Good Afternoon Vickie,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. The Sadolin and Sikkens are pretty much like for like in terms of quality and protection, and will give great protection to your Log Cabin. Both ranges will require a two coat or even three coat system to give the best level of protection to your wood and so if you would like to email me with which option you prefer and I will be happy to give further advice on application and number coats, in which order will best suit your needs.

      These are both exterior ranges and so for the interior if you would like to look at a product such as the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil which will give a natural look and feel and will be easy to maintain over time.

      If you take a look and feel free to email me with any questions you have via our contact us page.

      Kind regards Samantha

  45. Dear Samantha ,
    Sorry lost your previous reply .
    Am removing old bungalow facia .Intend to replace with ,new pine shiplap ,total area about 10sqm.
    Please advise on best preservative undercoat and then Mahogany mat finish ,or suitable one coat /both sides application ,
    Many thanks ,
    John.

    • Hello John,

      Thank s for getting back to me, I previously advised – For a long lasting finish you could have a look at the Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus. This has a range of colours and you can apply 2-3 coats for a semi gloss, natural looking finish. It is brush application and if you are able to apply to both sides before installing this will also prolong the protection to the wood.

      I would expect this to last for a minimum of 5 years and possibly longer, depending on how exposed to the elements it is. A top up coat at the 5 year mark may help to prolong even further.

      I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  46. I’ve bought a house with wood frame doors and windows that have not been maintained.
    The insides of the doors/windows are in okay condition but the exterior surfaces are in bad condition so that doors/windows get soaked from rain and swell/jam making them difficult to open/close (after a decent hot spell allowing things to dry out they become easier to open/close again).

    I am not sure what the wood they are made from is but think it is pine. The exterior surfaces are not rotted but do have a number of cracks. What do you recommend to bring the frames back to a maintained condition? To help stop the water penetration I was thinking of filling the cracks with an exterior filler – would this be sensible to do?

    Regards,
    Mike.

    • Good Morning Mike,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your questions. The first thing to do is give the wood a good clean and perhaps a light sand. Good preparation is the key to a good finish. Once the wood is clean and ready I can recommend the Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus one coat followed by Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 two coats.

      These two products will give exceptional durability and enhance the natural beauty and depth of the grain. You can use a filler such as Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler as this is very versatile and can be over painted. Areas that are filler may have a slightly different appearance and test area are recommended at all stages of the project.

      If you take a look at the products to see if they are suitable for your needs and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  47. Hi,
    We have just built a 5.5 x 4.5m log cabin (from TUIN).
    It comes untreated bare wood; TUIN have 6 different manufacturers they recommend, but they are all stains.
    Ideally we would like to paint the cabin to our colour choice. I know i will add preservative first, but what concerns me is what paint/protection to use that are compatible and UV stable.
    The cabin website says i need a micron thickness of 80-120um of protection??
    1 of the treatments they recomend would work out at £1050 to treat it! (carefree is £37.5 x 28L)
    What could we use that will afford it the same depth of protection, but at a sensible cost, and a colored finish?

    Thank you in advance.

    • Good Morning Stuart,

      I am sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I have to say that this is a set of requirement that I have not come across before when it comes to treating a Log Cabin, they are very specific. And I certainly would not expect a full treatment to protect the Cabin to come to that amount of money. I am not familiar with the Carefree and so its difficult to give comparison products, but I can recommend something that I believe will give a good level of protection and is easy to maintain over time.

      It can be dependant on the type of wood used, but I can recommend the Barrettine Premier Universal this will prevents wood boring insects, wood rotting fungi and blue stain and gives long lasting protection.

      Followed by two coats of a top coat product such as Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment this is a clear oil that will soak into the surface of the wood to give a moisture repellent finish that results in rain beading off the wood. As an estimet you will need to cover 40 m2 for your Cabin, this will require approximately 9-10 litre of the oil to complete 2 coats. Test areas are strongly advised.

      The oil will protect the preservative and so if you maintain the oil with an annual or bi annual top up depending on how exposed the cabin is then the preservative will not requre a top up for afew years.

      This is of course dependant on the type of wood you are applying to and if you have further details feel free to send via our contact us page.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  48. Hi I’m getting a 6x6ft garden bar and would like to keep it to a light wood colour. What would be the best protection to put on it?
    Thanks Tracy

    • Good Afternoon Tracey,

      Thank you for getting in touch with us via our Blog. A garden bar is a great addition to any garden space and to keep a natural look to the wood, whilst offering great protection, my first recommendation will be to use a good quality preservative such as Barrettine Premier Universal Preservative this will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. It is a clear finish but it will darken the wood very slightly.

      Then a top coat of exterior oil to give moisture repellency and slow down the silvering process of UV damage and for this there is a wide range of products but a couple to consider are the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra this requires just two very thin coats for application.

      Another option is the Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil it will not peel and flake over time and is easy to maintain over time.

      If you have a look at these two and feel free to let me know if you have any questions, I am here to help. If you feel the something more durable is required then let me know and I can offer some alternative suggestions.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  49. Have a bog standard garden fence and shed which have had to be painted with Cuprinol twice in the last four years despite the product saying it lasts five years. Is there a better product which would last longer?

    • Good Afternoon Maureen,

      Durability of a treatment can depend on a number of factors that include, how exposed the fence is to the elements, what type of wood, any previous treatments, how well and often it is cleaned or maintained. 5 Years is a guide and quite optimistic for for a surface paint. Maintenance can be easy however if you tackle any areas of wear straight away this will help avoid damage and keep the paint lasting longer.

      Alternatives are available but can give a similar length of durability and protection and still require regular top ups. For further advice please feel free to call and speak to one of our friendly team on 01303 213838.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  50. Hello, I am currently constructing a greenhouse from reclaimed mahogany which will hopefully last a very long time. When it is completed I want it to be dark grey in colour, what would you recommend to both preserve and colour the wood

    Regards Duncan

    • Hello Duncan,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. One option you could consider is the Osmo Country Colour this is a penetrative oil that colours and protects in just two thin coats. As you are applying to Mahogany this will impact on the colour that will be achieved and so a test area with a sample sachet is very important.

      The Country Colour will give an opaque paint like finish but still with a natural feel to it. It does protect against moisture ingress however it does not contain Biocides and so a preservative is recommended for application before the oil and a good option is the Osmo WR Basecoat

      Alternatively for a slight more natural and less opaque grey finish there is the Osmo Decking Oil which has a dark grey tone in its range. Although marketed for Decking it is very versatile and as long as it is applied thinly will also give great protection to your wood.

      If you check out these products and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  51. Hi, we have recently installed 30m of new 2m high featheredge fencing around our garden and are obviously keen to get it into a preserved state asap. The boards are dry wood and untreated but have a greenish tinge which we quite like. Access at the moment is easy but will become more difficult as the project develops so we could do with something long lasting with either a clear or slightly green finish. We would be very grateful for your advice. Thanks, Ciaran

    • Hello Ciaran,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. I would recommend looking at the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative this is available in clear or coloured finishes and will give great protection to your fence. The clear will darken the wood very slightly should you choose that one and it will help to prevent mould mildew and rot as well as offer some moisture repelency to the wood as it contains wax.

      As you are treating feather board it is likely that you will need more of the product than the coverage guide as the wood will be more porous and depending on how exposed the wood is to the elements, top ups can be done every few years, although for the best protection to your wood an annual refresher coat is recommended.

      Always try a test area first and if there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.

      Kind Regards Samantha

  52. Hi,
    Is it ok to paint Sadolin Superdec onto new timber that has just had a covering of Thompson’s water seal?

    I’m guessing not but would appreciate some advice thanks.

    • Good Morning Paula,

      The Thompsons Water Seal will repel pretty much any product that you try to put on it. It is a very strong moisture repellent barrier and will cause issues with adhesion if you try to apply anything over the top.

      If there is anything else that I am able to help with please do let me know.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  53. I have 20 x 8ft x 4 ft sleepers im away to use in my garden for small retaining walls. They are already pressure treated but im wondering if a should apply a further coat of protection before i lay them down.
    Perhaps creocote ?? Any advice welcome thanks
    Ash

    • Good Afternoon Ashley,

      It will only be of benefit to apply a good quality treatment such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative it is a good product for all round treatment, it will help prevent mould, mildew and rot and also contains some wax to help prevent water ingress. If you take a look at the product and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  54. Hi, I am building a 4x2x2 shed and thinking of using either osb 3 or ply to construct it. What would you recommend? And what preservative to use. Cheers..

    • Hello Tony,

      I am sorry to say that building sheds and what to use is not my field of expertise. I can tell you that OSB can be problematic with many treatments as the adhesives and resins used to make it can repel may of the products.

      I can advice on products to use to protect your shed however and as a guideline I tend to recommend a preservative first to help prevent mould mildew and rot. Followed by an exterior oil to help make the wood moisture repellent.

      Some possible options for you to consider are the Barrettine Premier Universal or the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative these can help to prevent mould, mildew and rot.

      And then a top coat product such as Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment to help make the wood moisture repellent.

      If you take a look at these products and feel free to come back to me if you have any questions.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  55. Hi, I have a new 20ft x 20ft wooden garage that I want to protect. I’ve been advised oil based product would be best. Can you advise?? Just looking for a natural finish and something that protects the wood from the elements..
    Thanks in advance
    R

    • Good Afternoon Robbie,

      My apologies for the delay in getting back to you with a response. Exterior Oils are often recommended as they have the benefit of being easy to maintain over time and Decking Oil is a great option to consider. It is a really versatile product that can be used for a wide range of projects not just decking.

      I can also recommend a preservative first and Barrettine have a very good product called Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver which will help to prevent mould and rot, it is a clear product although it will darken the wood slightly to give the ‘wet look’

      Once this has dried you can apply two coats of oil and here are two possible choices for you to consider Barrettine Decking Oil or the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment both are oils that will penetrate the surface of the wood and repel moisture.

      Test areas are always recommended and advice is based on application to bare wood if you have any questions at all please feel free to get in touch via our contact page contact us page

      All the Best Samantha

  56. Hi, I have an open fence with vertical slats. It’s about 20 years old and has had quite a number of treatments over the years – mainly Cuprinol. At the moment it is covered with a dark oak stain. I have jet washed it to remove green mould and it is now patchy.
    I’d like to stain it with a lighter colour -say medium oak -but I don’t particularly want to try and stripe the old colour off.
    Is there anything that will overcoat the dark stain with a lighter colour please?

    Regards,

    Terry Matthews

    • Good Morning Terry,

      Thank you for your questions, unfortunately it not possible to apply a lighter colour over the dark, it would just come out as a similar colour. It may be possible to apply a paint over the top and this will give an opaque finish to the wood that will cover the dark stain, it is essential to carry out a test area first, The test area is to check not only that you will like the colour but also that there are no compatibility or adhesion issues.

      For a paint to go over the top you could have a look at the Cuprinol Garden Shades you may find that you need and extra coat for full coverage and again test areas will show this.

      I hope this helps and if you have any questions at all you can get in touch via our contact us page.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  57. Hello,

    I have built an outdoor bench using light coloured pressure treated kiln dried spruce. I’d like to protect it but also show the grain so I have considered yatch varnish but I don’t want the maintenance hassle so I am considering oils. I am also looking at a light warm coloured stain to the wood to enhance the colour.

    Can you recommend a stain and treatment that is easy to maintain and apply that won’t stain clothing when dry? The bench will be exposed to full sun and the elements all year.

    Many thanks.

    • Good Afternoon Anthony,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. I can recommend the Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil as a good option, easier to maintain and will enhance the natural tones and grain of the wood.

      To slow down the silvering effect of UV damage you could also look at the UV Protection Oil Extra this is a durable oil that requires just two thin coats for application. It will help to slow down the silvering process and make the wood moisture repellent. Osmo do not recommend it for horizontal surfaces, however for a bench I believe you will be fine, just ensure that you keep it maintained and add refresher coats when you feel that the wood needs it.

      Always try a test area first.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  58. Hello,
    I belong to a sailing club based directly on the seafront which needs a bit of a spruce up outside. It has 4 fairly large wooden bench tables which although are old are sound, so i want to brighten them up and give them protection. I don’t mind a 1-2 year recoverable but i don’t want to have to repaint them constantly through flaking or cracking paint.
    At the moment I’m thinking brown, but is there a colour paint that will work just as well? The biggest issue really is as they’re on the seafront there is no protection from the elements.
    Thank you

    • Good Morning Emma,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. What you are able to use will depend on what is currently on the benches. If you have a varnished or painted finish currently on there and do not wish to remove it then a you will need to consider a similar product to go over the top after carrying out some preparation.

      If you are planning to strip the furniture back to bare wood however, this will open up your options for alternative and easier to maintain products.

      If you would like to email me via the contact us page and I can make some recommendations based on the information you send me about the current finish.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  59. …. we will be installing birch venner rated fire doors (core is a plaster type filler) on the exterior of an old church. We decided on wood vs steel fire doors because of the difficulty of sizing eac door properly. All exterior doors are protected by a roof overhang and wwould rarely get wet except for a windy storm. What will be the best way to protect doors to last? I was thinking 3 coats oil poly.
    Thankj you

    • Good Afternoon Richard,

      A good option for exterior oil is the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra this is the external equivalent to the Polyx Oil. It is a clear oil that soaks into the surface of the wood and slows down the silvering process and repels moisture. You will only require two very thin coats applied and test areas are vital to ensure that you like the finish to be achieved and that it is suitable for your project.

      You can also increase the protection to the door by applying a preservative first , such as Osmo WR Basecoat this will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot.

      If you take a look at the products recommended and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  60. Hello,
    We have newly-made chestnut exterior gates. We would like to find a solution with the least possible maintenace – mainly avoiding having to sand and re-do every year. We get a lot of sun and rain damage to our wood here. I assume to avoid sanding I will have to keep the wood natural- looking, and not paint it with a colour?
    Thank you in advance

    • Hello Anna,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. For low maintenance and a natural finish you could consider the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra this is a clear oil that soaks into the surface of the wood and enhances the natural colours and grain of the wood. It requires just two very thin coats for application, so a little goes a long way.

      Thin application is particularly important as Chestnut is a hardwood and will absorb less oil and it is important to not allow any oil to dry on the surface of the wood. So for the best application method use a suitable natural bristle brush and then with a lint free cloth remove all excess oil.

      Test areas are vital to ensure you are getting the finish you desire and that the product is right for your wood, this oil requires application to bare wood. The benefit of an oil is that it will not peel and flake or need to be removed to refresh, simply ensure the wood is clean and dry and then apply a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it. This can be annually or bi annually depending on exposure.

      If you have any questions please do let me know I will be happy to help.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  61. I have a black fence painted in cupinral fence life + with the blue lid. The sun has absolutely drained my fence and it is all flaking off – all I have to do is touch this cuprinral fence life + paint with the blue lid – what a disastrous decision – the only decision is to take it back to the bare wood – HELP.
    Colleen

    • Hello Colleen,

      Do you mean the Ronseal Fence Life ? If the paint is already peeling and flaking there is a good chance that a pressure washer will help to remove a lot of the old product and bring it back to bare wood. If the wood is smooth then light sanding to remove any stubborn areas. Once back to bare wood this opens up your options for what to use to get the finish that you want. If you can take a look in the Fences section of our Website Garden Fence Treatments this has a wide range of options to consider.

      I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please feel free to get back in touch via our contact us page.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  62. hi, I have just acquired a very solid kitchen table which I want to put in the garden, initially on the lawn but eventually on a patio. The legs are 90cm x 90cm wood, and painted white, though the underneath of the leg where it rests on the ground is unpainted. I was wondering about how best to prepare these legs for a long life in the garden. eg by soaking them in preservative before either painting again, or whether to strip them down completely? Also thinking of putting some kind of impermeable feet onto the legs to stop the damp coming straight into the legs.
    The top is polished hardwood, and I am thinking of rubbing it down and using a yacht type varnish. Any better ideas to maximise its chances in our weather please?
    thanks
    Tim

    • Hello Tim,

      Thank you for your enquiry. If the paint is an interior one I would recommend stripping back to bare wood and re treating. Interior paint will not stand up to the elements of the outside.

      Once back to bare wood you can apply a good quality preservative Barrettine Premier Universal will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot, you can apply this liberally. And you are able to apply most paint finishes over this so you could look at the Ronseal Garden Paint for the legs to give an opaque finish.

      And then for the top of the table, Dulux offer a good quality Yacht Varnish >>> Dulux Trade Clear Gloss Yacht Varnish for exterior use.

      If you take a look at those products and if you have any questions I am here to help.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  63. Hi. Our house is 1930’s and has the original wooden oak door step on the front door. The door is in a porch so has some protection. The step was very dark in colour and looked scruffy….and so I was going to paint over it. However with a lot of sanding and planeing I now have a beautiful light coloured oak step…..
    The big question now is how do I keep it like that…..finish needs to be hard waring and I want to keep the colour light…..help please,

    • Good Afternoon Jon,

      A little sanding and hard work can pay off! To protect it my best recommendation would be to use a Decking Oil. The reason for this is that thresholds and steps can get a lot of foot traffic and even though it is protected by your porch it will still need a product that can stand up to everyday footfall. The benefit of a Decking Oil is that it is also easy to maintain over time. When you feel that the wood needs it you can top up with another coat, just ensure that the wood is clean and dry before application.

      Possible options are Barrettine Decking Oil or Manns UV Decking Oil With thresholds there is no guarantee of how long protection will last for.

      As with all of our products a test area is recommended and a clear oil will darken the wood very slightly to give the ‘wet look’ and you can get an idea of this by wiping a damp cloth over the bare wood. I hope that helps some and if you have any further question please do not hesitate to contact us

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  64. Hi there

    We have east facing windows with wooden window frames which take a lot of punishment from the elements. They need to be treated and I wondered which would be best to use out of varnish, oil or paint. Ideally we’d like to keep the wooden look.

    Kind regards
    Liz

    • Good Afternoon Liz,

      A great choice for joinery is Sikken Cetol HLS Plus one coat followed by two coats of the Sikkens Filter 7 Plus is a great combination for joinery and comes in a range of colours. It gives a very natural look and feel to the wood with exceptional durability and if well maintained over time will last for a long time.

      For further advice please feel free to get int ouch via our contact us page.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  65. Hello, have large log cabin approx 8years old. All in good condition but customer would like it given a clear look finish and something that’ll look after it for minimum 5years. Would rather not do two jobs ie preservative and then an overcoat but if this is only option then I’ll do it. Any suggestions?

    • Hello Joel,

      Thank you for your question, it would be great if you could preserve and and protect in one treatment, unfortunately we do not have one treatment that will give a long lasting durability and for the best level of protection a base coat of a good quality preservative first to help prevent mould, mildew and rot. Followed by a top coat product to help slow down the silvering process caused by UV and make the wood moisture repellent.

      For the preservative I can recommend the Barrettine Premier Universal this is a clear product, although it may slightly darken the wood to give what we call the ‘wet look’

      One this is dry you can consider the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment which is an oil that will soak into the surface of the wood and leave it looking and feeling natural.

      It will not last for five years however you can simply apply a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it, this can depend on exposure to the elements and there will be no need to strip or sand back, just ensure that the surface is clean and dry.

      These products are recommended for application to bare wood and so if the Cabin currently has any treatment on it, let me know and I can advice accordingly.

      All the Best Samantha.

  66. Hi, I’ve just built a 15 x 10 shed out of pressure treated smooth T&G. I would like to keep the natural colour, poss a golden brown. What would best to treat this. A lot of products specify rough sawn timber, which mine is not.

    • Hello John,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry, a popular choice for projects such as your is the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment this is a clear oil that will soak into the surface of the wood, as you have smooth Tong and Groove it is likely to use slightly less than the coverage guidelines. It will help to make the wood moisture repellent and slow down the natural silvering process of the wood caused by UV damage.

      To maintain a good level of protection you can simply top up the oil annually or bi annually depending on when you feel the wood needs it. I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please do let me know. Always try a test area first.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  67. Hi, last year I made a planter out of decking for my garden and treated the timber with linseed oil. After all the bad weather we’ve had its looking a bit shabby and I would like to know if I should keep putting linseed on it or would you recommend another type of treatment. Thanks John

    • Hello John.

      Thank you for getting in touch. The Barrettine Boiled Linseed Oil will certainly offer some protection to the wood, and give a warm tone.

      We do often recommend some alternative and more durable finishes that will give a longer protection. A preservative is always recommended as a first coat treatment to help prevent mould, mildew and rot. The Barrettine Premier Universal is a popular choice, and available in a 1 litre tin.

      Then a top coat of oil to help make the wood more moisture repellent and also slow down the silvering process caused by UV damage. Depending on the size of the planter you could potentially get away with the 125 ml tin of Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra as two very thin coats are all that are required. This will offer more durability than the Linseed oil.

      If you take a look at the products and should you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know. Always try a test area first.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

    • Hello Chris,

      Beehives are always a difficult one to advice on, there are not many manufacturers who will say their product is suitable for use on Beehives and so we tend to recommend that you get in touch with the Bee keeping Society and see what they recommend. I wish I could be of more help on this one but would really hate to give a best guess when Bees are involved.

      Kindest Regards Samantha.

  68. Hi guys, I’ve got a wooden plaque (English oak) that I want to protect as much as possible from the weather. It’s position is staring straight at the sky so it’s got no positional advantage where direct sunlight / rain & general weather is concerned. Any idea what the best product/s to use might be? Thanks in advance

    • Good Afternoon Pat,

      My first recommendation would be to apply a Preservative first. This will help protect the woods against mould, mildew and rot.

      You can follow this with a top coat of oil that will repel moisture and contain UV filters to slow down the silvering process. A good option is the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. For a small plaque you will need just the 125ml as with the preservative, a little goes a long way. One or two coats of the WR Basecoat followed by two thin coats of the oil. This is also easy to maintain over time, simply apply a fresh thin coat when you feel the wood needs it.

      If you have a read up of the products and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have.

      All the Best Samantha.

  69. Hi, I have a 200 year old south-facing, front door which I stripped back to bare wood. It’s made from walnut and has a natural, light colour. I coated this with linseed oil, which looked fantastic, but it has started to go mouldy and black – especially at the bottom. I saw your comments above about 6 monthly treatments with linseed oil but I’d like something that’s more maintenance-free which can bring out the grain a little and enhance the natural colour of the wood. Any suggestions?

    • Good Afternoon Paul,

      Oils such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra are a good option for exterior doors, however like all other oils it will need regular maintenance to keep up the protection. Particularly for a south facing door. The Osmo will last longer than the Linseed Oil for sure, I would still recommend an annual top up in your case.

      Alternatively, you could have a look at the Sikkens range, starting with one coat of the Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus followed by two coats of the Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus.

      This will give a durable and longer lasting finish. It can last a number of years and if maintained even longer. If you have a read up of the product and feel free to get back to me with any questions you have.

      Always try a test area first.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

    • Good afternoon Dave,

      Are you able to email me with some further details of your project. To include if the wood is exposed to the elements, wind, rain etc ? You could look at an Oil or Varnish for protection, oil will give a natural finish and varnish is a harder wearing surface sealer that is longer lasting. If you can email me at wood@finishes.direct with further details of your project and I can narrow down some possible products for you.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  70. Dear Samantha,

    I have recently purchased two bird houses made out of pine. What would be the best wood treatment to preserve the wood and be safe for the birds.

    Many thanks for your help.

    Angela Sen

    • Hello Angela,

      Its always difficult when it comes to treatments that are to be used around animals. Many of our products are safe once dry, its just during the application period that you have to take care. One product that I often recommend is the Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver.

      Barrettine Wood Preservative is perfectly safe to use on any surface that comes into contact with animals when dry. This includes but is not limited to dog kennels, chicken sheds and houses, horse stables and more. It’s important to remember that this wood preservation treatment should be over-coated with a suitable exterior wood oil or decking oil. Animals should only come into contact with the surface of the wood when both the wood preserver and oil have fully dried.

      It will help to prevent mould,mildew and rot and is available in colours or clear to suit your needs. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  71. Hi, my partner has a shelter for her horse. It’s in an exposed field that’s currently getting battered by the elements. One side of the shelter is soaked through to the inside and not getting chance to dry out. If I look to use an oil based repellent do I have to wait for the exterior wood to dry out before applying or could I apply to damp wood on a dry day? Thanks

    • Good Afternoon Gabriel,

      It is essential that the wood is dry when application of oil is carried out and that you have a couple of dry days to carry out the project, I know that can be difficult in this country with such changeable weather. Sealing the wet wood will result in mould form fairly quickly.
      For the best protection I would also recommend Barrettine Premier Universal Preservative which will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot.

      If you have a look at these recommendations and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.

      Kindest Regards Samantha.

  72. Hi. I have a 5m x 3m timber workshop which is one year old and is clad in smooth finish natural colour boarding. The cladding was factory dipped prior to it’s being built 0ne year ago. According to the supplier it has to be recoated after 1 year so can you please suggests the best system for doing it?

    • Hello Andy,

      Thank you for getting in touch, I can recommend a good quality Preservative first to help to prevent mould, mildew and rot.

      Following this a good quality top coat to help make the wood moisture repellent and give UV protection to slow down the silvering process. If you are looking to keep a clear natural finish then you can look at the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment, which is a great product for ease of application and maintenance over time.

      If you have a read up about products and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  73. Recently had planters installed in garden (pressure treated railway sleepers (natural colour referred to as “green”).

    To maintain current look would like good UV protection to avoid silvering – planters colour looks better after rain so some partial wet look would be a bonus.

    Any ideas? thanks

    • Hello Paul,

      You could have a look at an exterior treatment, such as Barrettine Wood Protective Treatment. This comes in a clear, which will darken the wood slightly, or a coloured finish, the darker the colour the more UV protection it will get.

      You can apply 2-3 coats to build up a protection for the wood and it will help to make the wood moisture repellent. Always try a test area first and if you have any questions, I am here to help.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  74. Hi Samantha, they couldn’t tell me exactly, but i’ve found out the brown colouring is a dye to indicate it has been pressure treated, and will fade to nothing in a season. So I guess it is just a standard pressure treatment for rot and fungi as found with decking timbers.
    Thanks

  75. I have just built a large shiplap driveway gate out of pressure treated (brown colour) softwood. I would like to add a clear coat to further protect whilst maintaining the original colouring, and to seal ends and crosscuts made into the timber. The gate is fairly exposed and south facing. Are you able to help. Many thanks Paul

    • Hello Paul,

      Can you tell me exactly what is on the wood at the moment ? And then I can narrow down some suitable products for your project.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  76. Hi there

    Just had a new tanalised garden shed fitted. Wondered which clear product I should put on it come spring time?

    Cheers for the steer, Regards, Mark

    • Good Morning Mark,

      You could have a look at the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment. This is a clear oil that absorbs into the surface of the wood and helps to make it moisture repellent as well as offering some UV protection. A clear oil will darken the wood a little to give the ‘wet look’ and I would recommend a test area first. Have a read up of the product and feel free to get back to me if you have any other questions.

      All the Best Samantha.

  77. I have new fences and a new shed to protect. Do you recommend creocote as a long term solution? Or should I be using a more ordinary preservative such as Cuprinol or Ronseal?

    • Good afternoon Robert,

      The Creocote will help to make the wood moisture repellent. It does not offer protection against mould mildew and rot. For this a preservative is required.

      For the best protection of exterior woods, we nearly always recommend a two coat system. A Preservative first to help prevent mould, mildew and rot. Followed by a top coat product to give moisture repellency. This can be the Creocote or an Oil such as Barrettine Decking Oil which is very versatile and can e used for a number of exterior projects.

      If you have a look at the recommendations and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

      kind regards Samantha.

  78. I have just built an extension which is clad externally in marine ply. The wood does not come into contact with the ground. It is a uniform mid brown colour and I would like to stain it with a colour eg blue or grey. Also, I am unsure whether I should also be using a wood preservative treatment. I would greatly appreciate your advice. Peter Vaughan

    • Hello Peter,

      Thank you for getting in touch. Can you tell me if there is any treatment currently on the cladding? This can have an impact on what I can advise.

      If you are treating bare wood then I would recommend a preservative to help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. And then a top coat product that will make the wood moisture repellent and offer UV protection. Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain has a good range of colours to choose from.

      Feel free to email me with an further information or questions at wood@finishes.direct

      All the Best Samantha.

  79. I have apple tree slices from the trunk of my old tree .. I’m turning one into an outside stool what would be the best way to preserve this please

    • Hello Anjila,

      If the wood has dried out then the first recommendation would be a preservative to help to prevent mould, mildew and rot.

      Then a top coat product to seal and help keep the wood moisture repellent, for a clear oil that will help to slow down the silvering effect there is Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. It will darken the wood slightly to give what we call the ‘wet look’.

      If you are looking to add some colour or something different just let me know and I can make some alternate recommendations. If the wood is freshly cut and has not dried out yet you may need to allow it to weather for a while as treatments are not recommended for woods that have a high moisture content.

      I hope that helps and always try a test area first.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  80. Hi Samantha
    I have read with interest your questions and reply and have a project in hand which i would appreciate your advice The outside wood cladding on my house west facing west of scotland red cedar strip is looking the worse for wear after 30 years flaking and peeling The wood facing is still servicable and i do not wish to go to great expense renewing it Area is triangular approx10m across x5mht Product and application please
    Many thanks
    john

    • Hello John,

      Thank you for getting in touch. A good option for an exposed area is some of the products from the Sikkens Range. In particular you could have a look at the Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus. It is recommended for use on bare wood and so I would recommend removing all the pre-existing product, especially as it is peeling and flaking as this will continue to get worse.

      Once back to bare wood 3 coats of the HLS Plus is ideal for use on cladding. It is available in a range of colours and will last around two years with a 3 coat system, before you will need to consider applying a top up coat. For many it will last longer, but 2 years is the guide from Sikkens. Coverage will vary depending on the condition of the timber and so for your slightly aged wood it may be on the higher side.

      I hope this helps and do feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.

      All the best Samantha

  81. Hi

    I need some advice please. I have just had a new decking built. The actual decking is composite but the sides and railings are a soft wood. Which is best to protect the wood, Osmo or berratine?

    Many thanks

    Michael

    • Hello Micheal,

      I would recommend a basecoat of Barrettine Premier Universal Preservative first, this will help to prevent mould mildew and rot. Once this is dry an application of Exterior Oil would be recommended. Oils are easier to apply, maintain and repair over time and for one with not only moisture repellency but also UV protection. You could look at the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. This is our best oil in terms of slowing down the silvering process.

      If you have a read up of these products and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. Always try a test area first.

      All the Best Samantha.

  82. Dear Samantha ,
    Guidance please ,
    I am about to replace the ,ship-lap T&G ,external wood surround on my bungalow,about 100 m linear length .
    This will be bare wood ,can you please tell me how best to prepare and best finish for this .Dark brown ,mahogany Matt finish preferred .
    Being 78 yrs of age ,the minimum of work and hopefully about 10 yrs life .
    Many thanks ,
    John

    • Hello John,

      Thank you for getting in touch. For a long lasting finish you could have a look at the Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus. This has a range of colours and you can apply 2-3 coats for a semi gloss, natural looking finish. It is brush application and if you are able to apply to both sides before installing this will also prolong the protection to the wood.

      I would expect this to last for a minimum of 5 years and possibly longer, depending on how exposed to the elements it is. A top up coat at the 5 year mark may help to prolong even further.

      I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  83. I have two fresh sawn gate posts 200mm square. What would be the best thing to use to protect the posts. I want to try and keep the posts a natural lighter colour. I also have a new shed which has been pre treated. The are a medium brown and would like to make them a lighter colour. Is my only option to use something like Cuprinol Garden shades?

    • Hello Pauline,

      You could have a look at the Preservative to be applied first. This will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. Then two thin coats of the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. This will help to slow down the silvering process and make the wood moisture repellent.

      It will darken the wood slightly to give what we call the ‘wet look’ and you can get an idea of this by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the wood. It will leave the wood looking and feeling very natural.

      For the shed, lightening wood can be difficult and applying an opaque finish is more likely to get the best result. Cuprinol Garden Shades is a possible option and is available in sample sizes to allow you to try a test area first.

      I hope that helps and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  84. hello, I am installing an air dried oak beam 200mm square, across the garden at high level to grow plants across the patio, connect to the kitchen extension, using stainless steel wires, a continental open roofed patio area. It has been suggested to protect this beam with linseed oil. The issue, oak does not allow for deep penetration. How many coats and is it recommended to dilute the first, primer coat?

    Thank you in anticipation.

    • Hello Barry,

      Linseed can be used for your project however it will offer limited protection, have a long drying time and require a number of coats to be applied, up to 5. It will then need topping up regularly, around every six months to maintain its durability.

      For Oak I would recommend the Barrettine Teak Oil. It is a thin oil designed for use on hardwoods such as oak. It will make the wood moisture repellent and allow it to silver naturally. It only require two very thin coats to be applied and so a litlle goes a long way.

      I hope this helps and if you have any questions please feel free to get back in touch.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  85. Hi Sam,

    My wife and I have recently ordered a Tanalised Timber Summerhouse from Cheshire Sheds. They recommend using a Sadolin wood Protection but they have such a vast range and, when questioned, Sadolin recommended either their Ultimate wood Treatment or Superdec Opaque Wood Protection. Cheshire Sheds recommended a Translucent Protection, to bring out the grain. Also, to add to our confusion, when we went into our local Sadolin Dealer, Bromborugh Paints, they recommended Osmo 420, as a better alternative. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    • Hello Rob,

      There are so many products out there that is does become a mind field when it comes to choosing what is best for your project. Essentially all those products will be suitable, the Sadolin products are surface sealers, varnish or paint type products that dry on the surface and are fairly long lasting. When they start to break down and peel and flake they need removal in order to re apply new coats. But they have the benefit of lasting up to around 5-8 years depending on exposure and weather.

      We often recommend oils rather than surface sealers as they are far easier to maintain over time. They soak into the surface of the wood and will not peel and flake over time. They will simple wear away naturally and give a shorter time span of protection. The benefit comes in that you do not have to strip back the oil that remains, simply ensure the surface is clean and dry and then re-coat. So the Osmo Protection Oil Extra is ideal if you would like a natural, clear finish to your wood.

      One other thing to consider is a good quality preservative to be applied first. This will help to prevent mould mildew and rot, and the Sadolin or Osmo will be a top coat product that will slow down the silvering process and make the wood moisture repellent.

      I hope that helps and I am happy to answer any questions you have, feel free to email me on wood@finishes.direct

      All the Best Samantha.

  86. i have built a porch in wet oak and the customer wood like to put a protective coat on preferable to keep it looking light thankyou what wood you recomend please

    • Hello Mick,

      Wet or Green Oak has a high moisture content. Because of this we do not recommend applying a finishing product. Many products will not adhere to wet wood and those that do are sealing in the moisture making the wood susceptible to mould and mildew over time.

      People often use green wood in order to get the natural shifting and cracking that comes with the drying out of the timber. As it changes shape and takes on character. Once the wood is dry you can then consider application of a protective treatment and if you would like to email me with details of the colour or finish that you would like our email is wood@finishes.direct.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  87. Hi,

    I have a large area of planed wood garden border fencing to protect – something like 300 uprights of 4″ x 72″ incl posts. Would you recommend a particular product that is good value for such a large area? thank you. Col

    • Hello Col,

      You could have a look at the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative. It’s great for helping to prevent mould, mildew and rot. And also contains some wax to help make the wood moisture repellent. It comes in a range of colours and is one of our most popular finishes. If you have a read up of the product and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.

      All the Best Samantha.

  88. Hi.Ive just had a new shed put up today .They said it had been treated for rot and fungi but I need too put a water base treatment too water tight it .what would you recommend as also wants it clear or natural wood as dont want a colour.
    Thank you Chris.

    • Good afternoon Chris,

      We often recommend oils for exterior projects as they are not only easy to apply but also easy to maintain and repair. The Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment is a good option. It is clear and protective, with UV filters to help slow down the natural silvering caused by the sun.

      To get an idea of how it will darken the wood, you can wipe a damp cloth over the bare wood. For alternatives or further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch.

      All the Best Samantha.

  89. I constructed a pergola and rather that shingle I used fiberglass. I have sanded the fiberglass in preparation of painting with acrylic water proofing and sealer. I worry that some sanded areas may have exposed the untreated wood beneath. Since the resin epoxy is clear it is difficult to pinpoint where the exposed areas may be but primarily on corners. Would you recommend a penetrate to rub over these areas before painting?

    • Hello Jim,

      Thank you for your enquiry. For exposed areas of wood you could have a look at the Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver. This will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot and it also contains some wax to repel moisture.

      If you take a look at the product and feel free to come back to me if you have and questions.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  90. Hi Sam, I have recently purchased an 8′ x 5′ shed as a flat pack, sides, roof and floor, it’s already coated in factory preserver but they recommend it be recoated in more protection. Once the shed is erected and in position, because of limited space, one side will be difficult if nigh on impossible to re-treat, could you recommend a long lasting protection, especially for the side that’s close to the rear of a concrete garage. Cheers Brian.

    • Hello Brian,

      Thank you for your enquiry. I can recommend a whole range of products and some will last longer than others. Essentially all treatments will need a top up over time. The one that should be longer lasting is a combination of Sadolin Classic Wood Protection and the Sadolin Extra Durable Woodstain. These two will give a long lasting protection to the wood.

      It is flexible and water repellent. A test area should be carried out to ensure that there is no adverse reaction to the preservative already on there. If you have a read up of the product and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  91. Hi We have a vertical wooden post at the corner of a porch I would say approx 6inch sq.
    It is old but in good condition and a surveyor recommended we keep it. We are about to have it clad along with the wooden windows to be replaced with UPVC. I was thinking about stripping the paint (which is flaking) and giving the post some sort of protection before they start on the porch. What would you recommend?
    Thanks
    Geoff

    • Hello Geoff,

      Thank you for getting in touch. If the post is exposed to the outside world then a good quality preserver would be recommended Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative offers great protection against mould, mildew and rot. It also contains wax to repel moisture.

      If the post is inside the porch then a couple of thin coats of Hard Wax Oil will give a natural and durable finish to the wood. Always try a test area first and if you have any questions about these products please do feel free to let me know.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  92. Hi I have purchased a wooden framed gazebo it has been stored for three years. I Have no knowledge of wether it has been treated in the past or what with if it has. Can you please advise my best options.

    Thanks
    Chris Leach

    • Hello Chris,

      The first thing to do is carry out a water test. Splash some water at the wood and see if it beads off the wood, if it does then there is likely something on the wood that is still protecting it. If it soaks in (don’t use too much water) then you may be able to consider applying a fresh treatment.

      If you do the test and then feel free to email me at wood@finishes.direct with the results and maybe a photo of the wood to be treated and I can advise from there.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  93. I have a North facing Oak front door, it has been varnish in the past but has not stood up to the weather and is now patchy. What is the best treatment for it now.

    • Hello Diane,

      Thank you for getting in touch. For a door that is particularly exposed you may find it better to apply a product that is quick and easy to maintain over time. Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is an oil that soaks into the surface of the wood, and helps to make the wood moisture repellent and slows down the silvering process.

      Then a top up of oil annually will help to maintain the protection longer still. You can simply re apply a coat without the need to sand back, just ensure the door is clean and dry. The first application of this will need to be to bare wood, any varnish remaining will prevent the oil from penetrating the wood and protecting effectively.

      I hope this helps and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  94. Hi I have just put up a canopy and porch sitting on 5 inch treated posts I want to know the best looking oak stain or oil for the posts and facia board

    Thanks Daz

    • Hello Daz,

      Thank you for your enquiry, could you email me with a little more details, for example what type of treatment is currently on there and what type of wood are you treating. Will be happy to advice on the products that would suit your needs. You can email me at wood@finishes.direct

      Kind regards Samantha.

  95. Hi

    I have made some large raised beds out of Scaffolding boards that I have sanded back to clean wood. I’d like to keep their natural color but properly protect them for as long as possible because removing the soil and treating inside and out will be a nightmare.

    What is the best treatment to use?

    thanks in advance
    Ben

    • Hello Ben,

      You could have a look at the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative which will help prevent mould, mildew and rot and has wax to make the wood water repellent. Two coats of this will be good and you could follow that up with two coats of an oil such as Barrettine Decking Oil to improve the protection even more.

      And ideally line the bed with some suitable liner to help protect the wood even further. I hope that helps and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

  96. Hi,
    We have two old wooden carts which we are in the process of restoring. We are anticipating that they will stay outside from spring to autumn with a variety of flowerpots on them. Any advice on which type of preservative would be best would be much appreciated.
    Thanks
    Kath

    • Hello Kath,

      Thank you for your enquiry, you could have a look at the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative. This will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. And then to give protection from water ingress and UV, apply a Decking Oil.

      Areas of wood with pots on can be susceptible to damage and its worth taking then off periodically to clean the area and remove any dead flower petals or leaves.

      If you have a read up of the products and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.

      All the Best Samantha.

  97. Hi
    I have recently built a pergola in my garden. On three sides around the bottom 2.5 to 3 foot I have put a fence topped with some 6×2 timber. I anticipate people to lean on it and rest glasses and cups on it. I’m looking for help to prepare and and choose the right varnish for a natural looking tough easy to maintain surface. I get the image of a good old fashioned wooden bar counter look to it.
    Hope you can help thanks for your time.

    • Hello Jon,

      You could have a look the Sadolin Classic Wood Protection as an option there is a variety of colours available including the Light Oak and Natural. This is a varnish with flexibility and durability for exterior wood. If you have a read up of the product and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions, I am happy to help. Always try a test area first.

      All the best Samantha.

  98. My daughter has had an extension and now has large timber posts supporting a canopy over the front door. I thought I would give 2 coats of cuprinol and then use a dark coloured sikkens. Would this be the best way to stain and preserve the wood? Is it ok to use clear cuprinol then a sikkens with a stain or can you suggest something else? Thanks Sandra

    • Hello Sandra,

      I would not recommend the Cuprinol and the Sikkens together. Ideally the Sikkens should only be used with other Sikkens products and for the best finish on new wood, the Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus followed by the Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus. This will give great protection to the wood. If you have a read up of the products and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

      All the Best Samantha.

  99. Hi
    We currently have a dark stain on wood tops and would like a limed light grey effect. Which OSMO Products to use. Also an Indian Sandstone Floor internally which us impossible to clean. How to clean and possible paint to protect for future use in high traffic areas. Also has to be non slip for animals. Kind Regards. Barbara

    • Hello Barbara,

      Thank you for your inquiry. You will need to remove the existing finish before you can apply a lighter colour as it is unlikely to work unless applying an opaque finish and this would depend on the current finish of the wood. The Polyx Oils need to soak into the surface of the wood to work effectively and you may have something on the wood that prevent penetration. If you would like to email me with more details about the area to be finished and I would be happy to advice you further.

      I believe that there are some Sandstone sealers out there or a product such as Thompsons water sealer could be used but I am not the best to advice on sealing stone I’m afraid. If there is anything further you would like to ask or you do wish to discuss further you can email me on wood@finishes.direct

      All the Best Sam.

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