How To Stain Wood?

Why would you want to stain wood? You might be bored of the colour. The surface might be damaged, in serious need of a facelift. Perhaps you’re changing your décor and your wood floors and furniture need to change to match. Maybe your decking needs refinishing. Whatever your motivation, using a wood stain rich in pigments on bare or stripped-down wood changes the colour and also highlights the lovely grain.

Staining Wood

About staining wood – Know what type of wood you’re dealing with

Before you go anywhere near an interior wood stain or decking stain, you need to know what type of wood you’re dealing with. Is it softwood or hardwood? They behave differently, and the application process and end results are different.

How do you tell them apart? Soft woods include pines, firs and cedars. Hard woods include oak, walnut and birch. In between you have a few oddities. Box, for example, is a surprisingly soft hardwood and fir is a very hard soft wood.

  • Soft woods tend to have an uneven grain, often with patterns or blotches, and in some cases can stain unevenly. You might want the grain to stand out from the background and dye darker, since it’s a great way to enhance the wood’s beauty. If not, you could try a special pre-stain conditioner which sinks into the wood fibres to give an even base. Wood conditioners are bigger in the US and have mixed reviews. Manns Pine wood stain is specially formulated for pine and other soft grain woods, Manns also make a range of stains for hard woods
  • Hard woods tend to have a neat, even, finer grain. You can use any stain you like on hardwoods, but you may need multiple coats to achieve the same effect as you get on softwoods

 Top wood stains tips

Every piece of wood is different. Every tree is unique, even within the same species. So our first tip is this: Always do a test area first, trialling your interior or exterior wood stain product on a small, hidden area to make sure things aren’t going to go pear-shaped and you end up with the colour you want.

How to stain wood in 8 simple steps

  1. First, remove any dust, stickiness, polish, wax, paint, grease or dirt
  2. Next, sand the old surface to provide a clean, fresh key for your wood staining product.  You might need to resort to coarse paper then work your way up to finer (120 – 150 Grit) sandpaper to finish, or dive straight in with a light paper when there’s less preparation to do. This is a vital stage because wood stains won’t give an even result if the surface is mucky. If you leave the surface too rough, it will absorb more stain and give a darker finish and the smoother the finish, the lighter the colour. Experiment on scrap wood or a small area on the real thing first
  3. Wipe down your beautifully sanded surface with a damp cloth to remove any debris
  4. Put on your rubber gloves and stir the wood stain
  5. Follow the instructions to the letter, applying the stain with either a sponge, brush or cloth
  6. Use smooth, continuous movements, following the grain rather than working against it and applying the wood colour evenly
  7. Leave it to dry according to the instructions. As a general rule the longer you leave it, the darker the tone. You can always wipe small areas off and back on to check progress. Bear in mind it’s much easier to apply more stain than try to remove it when you’ve gone too far
  8. When you’ve achieved the right depth of colour leave it to dry, again as per the instructions

Exterior and interior wood stain – Oil versus water based

Wood staining products penetrate the wood rather than sitting on top of it.

Oil-based wood stains last for ages, penetrating deep into the wood, sealing and protecting it and enhancing its beauty.  They dry more slowly so you have more time to work with them. If you’re staining large areas like floors, cabinets and doors, oil-based stains are best because you are less likely to get dried-on marks when some areas dry faster than others. They don’t raise the wood’s grain either, so you don’t need to do extra sanding. It’s best to apply them with a natural bristle brush. Pastels are also oil-based, giving you a lovely pastel colour while highlighting the grain.

Water-based wood stains deliver an even colour and won’t absorb unevenly like oil based wood stains can. They smell less and dry faster, usually within a couple of hours. You can clean up with ordinary soap and water instead of solvents and you get a much wider choice of bright colours. It’s best to apply water-based products with a synthetic brush.

Solvent-based wood stains such as Morrells Light Fast Solvent Stains are commonly used by professionals because they are fast drying, easy to apply and ‘Light Fast‘ meaning that they are fade resistant – Perfect for areas that are exposed to direct sunlight.

What else is there? You can also buy varnish-based wood stains like Sadolin Extra Durable Wood Stain. These are pigmented (coloured) varnishes that are ideal for softwood and hardwood projects including doors and windows, for extra-long lasting protection.

Coloured wood stain

The beauty of coloured wood stain is the sheer variety of shades and tones. Everything from clean, crisp white wood stain for contemporary living and working spaces to subtle grey wood stain, dramatic black wood stain… a multitude of beautiful wood stain colours.

We stock a vast range of coloured wood stain, including the glorious Osmo Country Colour: opaque, satin-matt and available in a host of beautiful shades including blues, greens, greys, reds, oranges and more. Also see our range of Ronseal wood stains.

Wood stain dos and don’ts

How do you remove coloured wood stains? This very much depends on the type of wood being stained and the stain used. If it’s purely a water based stain then Wood stain remover is your first stop.

Spirit Based Wood Stains can usually be removed by scrubbing with cellulose thinners, methylated spirit or white spirit depending on the type of stain. It can be tricky to fully remove a stain and it may be neccessary to sand the wood back if the removal process doesn’t fully work. Many shop bought wood stains contain a stain and sealer (type of varnish) as an ‘all in one’ product. The only way to remove these is by sanding the wood back.

Stainable Wood fillers are available but many ‘off the shelf’ fillers will not accept a stain. Fillers that have been specifically designed to be stainable can often be overcoated with wood oils and varnishes. Although these fillers will take a stain, the final colour may still differ from the surrounding wood so it’s important to do test areas and comparisons before starting the main project.

  • Always use the best quality products you can afford
  • Never leave hinges, handles, knobs or pulls on, since wood finishing products can change the colour of the metal
  • Don’t let unabsorbed stain sit on the wood for any length of time. It’ll only peel off and won’t give you a darker finish
  • Never apply a finish before the stain is completely dry. The solvents will damage the stain’s  finish

Wood staining video

Here’s a handy YouTube video about how to stain wood:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OYMUKkcJyY[/youtube]

We provide Britain’s biggest choice of water, solvent and oil-based wood stains for tinting more or less any wooden, cork or stone surface you can think of – inside and out!

wooden-floor-stain

Wood stains can be used to transform the look and feel of any room


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134 Responses to “How To Stain Wood?”

  1. David Says:

    I have an unfinished oak kitchen worktop and unfinished Oak flooring being installed (both pre sanded). The worksurface is naturally abit darker than the flooring.

    I would like these both to match, can you recommend a treatment i can use on both? Perhaps a light/antique brown stain and then clear varnish on both? I am looking for more of a glossy finish on both.

    Many thanks,
    David

  2. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello David,

    Thank you for your inquiry, you could use the Manns Oak Wood Stain there is a wide range of colours available in this range and because its water based you can lighten slightly by adding water to try and achieve a similar look on both surfaces. Once you have the desired colour you could use the Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish to seal the surfaces. It is worth noting that the Varnish will darken the colour that you have applied and you can see this by looking and the coloured tabs on the product page. The Varnish comes in a range of sheen levels from Matt through to Gloss.

  3. Mark Roberts Says:

    I have made 5 picture frames, veneering each of the marine plywood carcasses with birds eye maple into which I have routed a channel to accept a black diamond patterned inlay banding.
    Would like a high gloss finish and a pale yellow / butterscotch final colour to the birds eye maple so that there is a good contrast between this and the orange background of the inlay banding.
    So far I have tried several varnishes, oils, waxes to attain this pale yellow / butterscotch maple colour reminiscent of 1930’s art deco furniture without success.
    These include Osmo Raw, Bestwood Danish oil & Tung oil, Bri-Wax antique brown and numerous Ronseal tins that were in the garage.
    The best so far was the Danish oil which really enhanced the birds eyes but this made the maple too dark, more like orange than the pale yellow / butterscotch I was after.
    Please could you suggest a method or products to achieve this.
    Not fond of using boiled linseed oil so was contemplating one of these 3 ideas.

    1 Spray Morrells Nitro Cellulose high gloss clear laquer directly onto the bare wood.

    2 Add a few drops of a pale yellow compatible dye to a tin of spirit based clear gloss and paint the bare wood with this slightly tinted varnish.

    3 Stain the bare wood itself first with this dye then when fully dry spray the nitro cellulose gloss laquer over the top.

    Many Thanks

    Mark

  4. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Mark,

    Thank you for your inquiry, I have spoken to our in house expert how has said that to get a butterscotch look you can mix white and yellow from the Manns Solvent Wood Dye until you get the correct colour (sometimes its worth adding a little brown)then mix it in to a Morrells Pre Catalyst Lacquer no more than 5%, but around 2% could be enough. Then apply spray in thin coats building to your desired colour. Hope that helps.

  5. Graham Says:

    I have just had a hardwood timber front door and full frame fitted. The outside gets 50% sun and is already starting to fade plus it gets some indirect rain on it especially if the wind blows. So i want a coating to protect the door from the sun and rain. But the inside also needs to be coated. I assume by the same material. I prefer something that requires less maintenance, lasts and that highlights the natural timber grain on the door. I want to use only premium products as I believe that quality now will hopefully save time and material costs later. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I am from Australia.

  6. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Graham,

    If the wood is currently bare then the first thing that I would recommend is that you apply a preservative to protect against mould, mildew and wood boring insects, to the exterior areas. From our website it would be the Barretine Premier Wood Preservative in a clear finish, but unfortunately we don’t ship to Australia. If you are able to find this product or a similar alternative then a Top Coat product is the next thing you will need and for this I would recommend Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra 420 again for the exterior area, which you should be able to source somewhere in Australia.

    This product will give a good level of water repellency and protection from the natural fading process. And will just need regular maintenance coats yearly or if you live in a dry area treat with a maintenance coat when you feel the wood needs nourishing.

    For the internal part of the frame, many of our customers use the same products with good ventilation, but we can not recommend this as they both contain Biocides. So for the internal area of the frame you could use the Osmo UV Protection Oil 410 as this doesn’t contain any biocides. I hope that you manage to find what you are looking for.

  7. sarosh Says:

    Hi, I bought a prestained and varnished dining set in deep red, pine I think because of the uneven grain where I sanded it all off one edge.
    I wanted this in black but sanding it all off is quickly becoming an impossibility with a toddler in tow and tight timeline 🙁

    Is it possible that I give a rough sanding (enough to make it not shiny) and stain over it with a tinted wood stain in black?

    My concerns are:
    1) will the uneven sanding show if I give multiple coats since I want it really black??
    2) will the previous red colour seep through if I don’t sand it all off or use a conditioner ( can’t afford an electric sander for the former and want it ‘really black’ for the latter)
    3) how do I minimize blotching? I have certain mobility issues so cant be as quick or thorough but I really want to do this. Will multiple coats take care of the blotching?
    4) will rough sanding mean ugly finish? But as I understand fine sanding will prevent stain to soak through esp if I don’t sand the old stain clear.

    HELP.

    Incase u cant tell, I’m a first timer. And I decided to start with a dining set. Jeez.

  8. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello,

    It can be difficult when you are on a tight budget with both money and time to get these projects right. In all honesty we would always recommend sanding back to the bare wood in order to change the colour of Furniture like this. As the Furniture has been pre varnished it will not take a stain into the wood, this is because the varnish creates a seal on the surface of the wood stopping anything from penetrating the wood.

    If you are unable to sand back then really your only option to make the dining set Black would be to apply a Black Paint over the top. You would need to do a test area first, allowing the varnish to completely dry for a couple of days to ensure that the new and old varnish are compatible with each other. Sand over the whole area is essential, firstly with a 120 grit and then with 320 grit to get a smooth even surface.

    You can apply the varnish quickly and easily with a roller and you should get a smooth and even coat that way. If you do have areas that are more sanded back than others there is a chance that you will see a slight difference in the finish so it is best to try and get the wood as even as possible for application. And it is well worth reading some of the Blogs that relate to this, as they have lots of hints and tips.

    Good luck with your project – Sam

  9. Nikki Says:

    Hi
    I have an old vono bed that has wooden head and footboards that need sanding and either staining or dying, not sure which would be better as am new to this. it also has (old) woodworm holes, how do i best tackle those? thanks.

  10. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hi Nikki,

    Once you have sanded back the wood, if you feel that you need to fill in the holes then the best product to use would be Osmo Wood Filler it is easy to use and sand once dry.

    If you are looking to put a colour on the wood then you have a couple of options that will depend on the colour that you would like to achieve. The first product to look at will be a Tinted Hard Wax Oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints both of these will colour and protect at the same time so you would just need two coats of the product and you are done. If there is not a colour in either of these ranges that you like then you could use a Water based Stain that will give you the colour and then a Clear Hard Wax Oil over the top to protect. Manns Pine Wood Stain has a wide range of colours and there is also an Oak range. And for the top coat Oil a good option would be Manns Top Oil

  11. Chelsie Says:

    Hi,

    I don’t know if your able to help. I have seen some oak veneer internal doors. I like the doors on the shelf so to speak but don’t quite like the colour on display. Do you need to varnish or stain the doors? Or is there anything else you would recommend to keep the colour that I like? Thanks in advance

  12. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Chelsie,

    The first thing worth checking, because they are Veneered doors, is if the manufacturers recommend things not to use. If they don’t then you could consider a tinted hard wax oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints these products will colour and protect at the same time. It is always worth doing a test area first to ensure that you like the colour, as I’m sure you are aware the colours on screen are only a guide and tones may vary depending on the wood that you are applying it to. An alternative option would be to apply a Water Based Stain and then a Interior Varnish to finish it. Hope this helps and feel free to ask any more questions – Sam

  13. Hannah Says:

    Hi, I have just had installed new pine PAR flooring and rough sawn vertical pine cladding. I’m trying to achieve a pale grey driftwood type finish on both, but after trying so many testers I’m really not getting anywhere. The PAR floor timbers are so smooth, they don’t seem to take any colour at all unless it’s paint, which I really don’t want to do, and the rough sawn timber can take a stain but I can’t oil as the surface is too rough to buff. Do you have any suggestions? I definitely don’t want any yellow wood on show otherwise it’ll look like a sauna!

  14. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Good Morning Hannah,

    It sounds like the floor has been sanded so much that the grain is closed and will not take any stain or treatment. The only way to solve this would be to sand the floor with a mid range grit sandpaper to open up the grain a little. The wood will then take some of the stain but you will sacrifice that ultimate smooth finish that you have. It may be difficult to match the floor and the cladding exactly as these are 2 different woods, however with a little bit of experimenting it is possible to get a close match. If you would like to send some photos to our email address is so we can have a closer look for you, wood@finishes.direct – Sam

  15. Alice Says:

    Hello!
    I was wondering if you could advise me. I have recently installed a wooden staircase which is made out of pine. I love the colour as it is at the moment but would be happy go lighter. Im concerned that it could turn yellow over time if I don’t treat it soon. I had seen some pine stained in ‘white oil’ which looked lovely. But how easy is this? Is it available easily, in UK? Are there any other pearls of wisdom you can provide before I either make a mistake or do nothing at all! Many thanks!

  16. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Alice,

    To keep it the same colour you could try the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw which is designed to leave the floor looking as unchanged as possible. Or you could use a White Hard Wax Oil which will protect and colour at the same time. It is a great product to use and easy to apply, but you must ensure that it goes on thinly. And always do a test area first. We also have a blog all about White finishes that would be worth you having a read of http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/blog/beautiful-interior-white-wood-finishes-for-dreamy-interiors/ hope that helps -Sam.

  17. Leigh Says:

    Hello – I am staining pine stair treads and painting the risers. I’m looking for a dark honey colour but nothing orangey. I already have high quality Bona water based varnish which I will be using to seal the stairs. I was looking at the Manns Pine Stain as the colour range is big. Am I able to varnish using the Bona varnish once stained as it mentions oiling it? thank you.

  18. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Leigh,

    Thank you for your inquiry, The Bona Varnish would be absolutely fine to use over the Manns Pine Wood Stain.

    It is worth noting that the varnish will darken the overall finish of the stain so it is worth doing a small test area to ensure that you are happy with the colour. And you can adjust the water based stain if you want to before applying.

    For instance you can lighten the colour by adding a little water or you can intermix with other colours to get an altogether different tone. And the more coats of the stain you apply the more depth of colour you will achieve.

    It would be great to see the finished project if you have time to send us some photos to share on our social media sites – Sam.

  19. Jenny Says:

    Hi there I was wondering if you could help me I recently bought some oak vaneered doors from Howdens. I put a clear satin vanish on them (wicks own brand). But I’ve bought the oak vaneer skirting and archs so it matches. But my door casing is in pine can you recommend the right colour so the casing match my doors and skirting/arch ?

    Thank you for your time

  20. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Jenny,

    Colour matching two different pieces of wood can be difficult but it is possible, with a bit of experimenting to achieve a close colour. However it would be better for us to see the wood you are asking about so that we can advise on possible colours from the Stain Ranges.

    If you could send some photos to wood@finishes.direct we will do our best to help!

  21. Stephanie White Says:

    Hi

    I have mahogany windows that have gone silver on the outside. I am going to treat them with oil but would like to stain them back to a mahogany colour.

    Is this possible and if so can you recommend a product. I already have the oil, would it be best to mix a satin with the oil or stain first?

    Many thanks.

  22. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Stephanie,

    Thank you for your inquiry. We don’t do an external stain as such because these tend to be ineffective for external use, we do have coloured Oils however which would be better for you to use.

    The Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain comes in a Mahogany finish and will colour and protect your wood at the same time. We always recommend a test area first to ensure that you like the colour, and with this product you could do one coat of the coloured Oil and one coat of the clear. Or if you require more depth of colour then two coats of the Coloured oil wood be fine.

  23. Neil Says:

    Hi Sam
    I have just treated 2 new internal solid oak floors with Osmo Wax Finish antique oak. The first floor I applied a liberal amount but felt it was much too dark so on the second I really brushed it out then wiped with a cloth to obtain the finish I required. Because it still felt tacky after 24 hrs I left it over 48 hrs but it was still tacky and stained my knees when I went to seal it with Osmo Polyx-Oil High Solid Satin Clear.
    I have 2 questions for you.
    1. Why did it take so long to dry and how long would I have needed to wait to fully dry out if I hadn’t sealed it?
    2. I think the fitter left some glue residue on the surface in places because when I went to seal it the stain came out of the wood where the glue had been. Other than sanding off, which I did before staining, is there anything else I could have done to avoid the patches?
    Overall, I am very happy with the finish of the second floor, it looks beautiful but am interested in your thoughts?
    I may consider sanding back the floor that is darker and starting again so any tips?
    Kind regards
    Neil

  24. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Neil,

    The first floor would have taken so long to dry because of over application. It is important that Hard Wax Oils are applied very thinly and evenly. If application is thin then the drying time should be around 10 – 12 hours depending on atmospheric conditions. Once it is dry you can then apply the second coat product, again very thinly. We do recommend once the last coat is added you should leave the area for around 24 hours to allow the product to fully cure.

    If the floor remains tacky to the touch you can remove some of the oil by wiping over with White Spirits. This will remove excess Oil that has not absorbed into the wood, but be careful not to over do it as you don’t want to remove it all. The Oil should then dry hard once the excess has been removed. If you are unable to achieve an even finish when doing this you may need to consider removing it all and starting again.

    Where there is residue of glue left on the floor, the Oil will be unable to penetrate the surface of the wood and so will sit on the surface of the residue, not doing what it is supposed to. You would really need to remove all of the remaining glue by Sanding or scrapping it off. This would be the only way to get an even finish as it will allow the Oil to soak into the surface of the wood like the surrounding areas. Hope that helps – Sam

  25. John Smith Says:

    Hello Sam,
    Because of waterpenetration, I have patches of grey water stains on the bottom of my window frames ( scandinavian pine, varnished light oak colour ).Hopefully the penetration has been resolved. Am I right in thinking that only paint will hide the discoloration ? Considerable sanding has failed to remove it .
    Kind Regards
    John

  26. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello John,

    The dreaded water stain ! It is worth trying to simply scrub the area with a wet cloth or sponge, luke warm water and maybe a small amount of soap, this can sometimes help get rid of the water marks, but this is not guaranteed and you run the risk of making it slightly worse. If this doesn’t help then yes your best option may be to use an Opaque finish to cover it up.

    I can recommend a couple of products that you might want to consider, the first is an Oil based product that gives a paint like finish but still maintaining the natural feel of the wood Osmo Country Colour or Sikkens Cetol TSI Satin Plus which is an Interior lacquer with an opaque finish that would be ideal for your wood. I hope you manage to get the stains out but if not you will be able to get a great finish with either of these products. Just let me know if you have any more questions -Sam

  27. Neil Says:

    Hi Sam
    Many thanks for the comprehensive reply. Although I did apply the Oslo Wax stain very thinly, the mistake I made was not to wipe the stain off with a dry rag after application. It doesn’t seem right to be doing this but I have since done another floor and it appears to be drying much quicker and has given a much better and lighter finish. Kind regards Neil

  28. Craig Says:

    Hi I bought some howdens oak veneered doors. just after I had hung the eighth door I noticed one of my kids had left a grease hand print on the first door I fitted! The doors have not yet had their polyurethane varnish, any tips on removing the grease off the veneered door before I apply the varnish?
    Thank you!

  29. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Craig,

    You could try giving a wipe down with some White Spirit to see if this will remove the finger prints. I wouldn’t advice using cleaning products unless they are natural or PH neutral and even then I would try a teat area, as these could also mark the bare wood. If the white spirit doesn’t work then a light sand with a 150 grit sandpaper may be necessary. Hope that works for you.

  30. martin Says:

    Hi. The picture at top is the same as my yacht. I think its a birds eye maple wood. I have heard about someone re staining this wood to a dark finish, but the picture is exactly what I would like to accomplish . Except its gloss finish. Does the gloss finish have to be sanded off before ? Is there a stripper that would work to remove the gloss ? Thanks

  31. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Martin,

    There is a good product for Varnish removal, its called Paint Panther and is a quick effective way to strip products like Varnish and Paint. It makes it the product bubble up so that you can scrap it off with a Filler Knife. I hop e that helps and if you have any further questions please let me know – Sam.

  32. Emily Says:

    Hello,
    We have bought a new pine internal door. The other doors on the landing are older pine and thus darker ( I think that they are untreated). What do you suggest I use to make the new door look similar to the old doors?
    Many thanks for your help.

  33. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Emily,

    It may be worth you looking at the Fiddes Tints these are colour and protection in one and could be great if there is a colour match in this range.

    If not you could have a look at our Pine Wood Stains to achieve the right colour and then treat with an Door Oil to seal. There is a wider range of stains and you can lighten by adding water if you wanted to. It is worth bearing mind that the Oil that you apply as a top coat will darken the stain slightly, so we always recommend a test area first. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions please let me know – Sam

  34. Dave Says:

    Hi I have dark stained polished mahogany banisters and wooden fire surrounds. Is there any way to lighten these so they look more comparable to an oak finish? I want to lighten the whole thing but if possible avoid just painting white?

    All advice welcome – thanks Dave

  35. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Dave,

    Lightening already treated wood is very difficult and the best thing to do is remove all existing treatments so you are back to bare wood. Are you able to tell me if the wood is Mahogany or if the treatment applied is Mahogany colour ? If the wood is then the natural red tint to it can be difficult to make more Oak like in colour but you could have a look at the Manns Oak Wood Stain choose some samples by the colours and not the names and do some test areas to see how these look on the wood, bearing in mind that a top coat product will also darken slightly. If you have any further questions please let me know – Sam.

  36. chris Says:

    Hi
    I have recently moved house and the window sills in one room, which are stained in a mid oak, are badly scratched and gouged. I have given them a good sanding down and now have a smooth surface to work with. But the window sills are now several colours, with some areas of bare wood and some of a medium oak and some darker. Help! I’m pretty certain if I just apply a coat of stain it will result in an uneven colour with the bare areas taking up more stain than the rest. Is there a product I can use which would mean I end up with a uniform colour on them?

  37. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Chris,

    The only way to get an even finish would be to apply an Opaque finish over the top. But the only internal products that we have for this would be the Manns Colour Match Varnish with this product you can choose a colour to be made up using our RAL chart. You would need to do a test area to ensure compatibility and adhesion to the current stain.

    If this is not the finish that you are looking to achieve then you will need to consider removing the previous product totally and you could look at the Paint Panther for this, or continue sanding until you are back to the bare wood. If you decide to go down this route there are a wide range of products that you could use to re treat your window frames. If you need any more advice please let me know – Sam.

  38. Adrian Says:

    Hi,
    I’ve recently replaced my open fire with a boiler stove and have a chunky rough sawn redwood surround and mantle. I like the rough look and so dont want to sand it too smooth. Ideally id have had oak but with limited time i had to use what i could get my hands on. So, I’d like to colour the wood and any advice on whether stain, oil or dye would be more suited to a lightly sanded surface with wee pits etc – my concern is that colour will pool in the pits. Many thanks!

  39. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Adrian,

    Many products will pool in to pits and gaps in the wood, but if you have a coarse brush for these areas you should be able to work the Oil/Wax out. Wax would be suitable to use but you may find that an Oil would be better around heat and won’t come away when you lean on it.

    You may also find that the wood absorbs more of the product due to its slightly rough finish. It is always best to try a test area first. There are a range of colours in both these products. If you have any further questions please let me know.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  40. Rosie Lyons Says:

    We have a 1930s pine banister rail which we have stained with Liberon light oak wood dye and waxed with Briwax Antique Brown. It is probably less golden than unstained old pine. However, a new unit top next to it, made of new pineboard, was treated the same and ended up not golden at all. Do you have any advice about how to treat the pineboard (now restripped), so that it more closely matches the banisters?

    Thanks.

  41. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Rosie,

    Colour matching in the wood finishing industry is notoriously difficult, but not impossible. I would be happy to look at some photos and see if there is anything we can recommend for you. You can send images in to wood@finishes.direct try not to have too much artificial light shining on the wood and please bare in mind that we can only guide you in the right direction, you will need to do some test areas first to ensure you are getting the finish that you want – Sam.

  42. koo Says:

    hi there
    we have a wood floor and after sanding it down maybe 1/2 mm a different base wood came through a more reddish one. does this mean its not solid wood and perhaps engineered ?

  43. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello,

    It is difficult for me to say, but you are welcome to send some photos in to our email address so I can have a look for you. wood@finishes.direct – Sam.

  44. Grant Says:

    Hi,

    Please could you recommend me some products for finishing venerred oak mdf? I’m looking for a darker, shiny finish and sliky smooth to touch.

    Thanks

  45. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Grant,

    A clear Varnish will naturally darken the wood and give it a smooth shiny appearance. Which Varnish to use will depend on what it is you are treating. So for Interior woods such as doors, architrave and furniture you could have a look at Extra Tough Interior Varnish and for flooring you could look at the Extra Tough Floor Varnish. I hope that helps and please let em know if you have any further questions – Sam.

  46. Debs Says:

    hi I was wondering if you could help me I have an oak effect display cabinet and I would like it to be walnut any advise please .

  47. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Debs,

    I can advise a few products but I really need to know how you are going about this transformation. So if you are planning on sanding back to bare wood and what the draws are made of. We have a great range of colours in the Manns Pine Wood Stain that you could have a look at, bare in mind that you would need a top coat products that will also darken slightly when applied.

    The top coat could be an Oil or a Varnish and either of these will seal and protect the wood and stain, with the Varnish creating a seal on the surface and the Oil soaking in and giving a more natural finish.

    Please let me know if you have any further questions please let me know.

    Kind regards Sam.

  48. julie Says:

    Hi I had my pine floorboards sanded and sealed 12 years ago and now theyre orange and scuffed how do I sand and seal them to a light oak colour please? its the whole ground floor of my 1930’s semi!

  49. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hi Julie,

    The best thing to do is to hire a sander, if you have a large area to cover. You will be able to get advice on use and grit from a hire company or alternatively get someone in to do that bit of the job for you. Once you have prepared the floor you can think about application and what products you would like to use.

    For a natural and easy to maintain finish you could look at the a Hard Wax Oil. Application of this product is easy to do, needing just 2 very thin coats and to make the job easier on your back you could use the Padco Classic Pad Applicator and Manns Lightweight Extension Pole. Or alternatively the Padco Snappy Applicator. These applicators can also be used to apply a Floor Varnish should you wish to use this on your floor. The Varnish is more durable than an oil and creates a seal on the surface. It is not as easy to repair should in get damaged where as the oil can be patch repaired and re applied when the floor needs freshening up. Here is a link for a video about choosing and apply the right product for your floor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Umn0CgJpdSg I hope this helps and if you have any further questions please let me know.

    Kind regards Sam.

  50. Suzanne Says:

    Hello,

    Firstly, your site and comments are brilliant – thanks so much for a wonderful online resource!

    I have a dresser which I’ve stained with an Indian Rosewood dye. I’ve just been given some new doors which aren’t as red as the stain I’ve used on my dresser and I wanted to try and even the colours out. I haven’t yet lacquered / varnished my dresser, so I’m wondering, if I use a stain on top that is darker brown and without a red hue, do you think this might dull the red on the dresser? It will save me a lot of time/effort if this is possible!

    Thanks in advance for any advice you may be able to give.

    Regards
    Suzanne

  51. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Suzanne,

    Colour matching can be so difficult on wood and without seeing the wood and colours that you are referring to it is difficult for me make any suggestions. if you would like to send in some photos to wood@finishes.direct we can take a look for you and maybe make some suggestions but ultimately you will need to carry out test areas. I am sorry I could not be of more help at this stage, but hopefully if you are able to send us an email we can offer some advice.

    Kind regards Sam.

  52. Meryl Lakin Says:

    Hello

    Major problem! We have just sanded back some old pine floorboards and treated them with Fiddes Wax Oil in Oak Lightening ( in an attempt to match them to the floorboards in the adjoining room, which are lovely old oak Georgian boards). They have come up a hideous, neon orange, looking like we have installed a cheap sauna! What to do? Can we stain darker over this wax oil, or do we, Heaven forbid, have to sand again? Any suggestions please.

    Thanks for any suggestion.

    Kind regards, Meryl

  53. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Meryl,

    Would you be able to email me with some images and details of preparation and application method. I would like to help you to solve your problem as best I can, you can email me at wood@finishes.direct and I will get back to you as soon as possible.

    Kind regards Sam.

  54. Tabatha Says:

    I’ve been refinishing my oak cabinets . I started with gel stain and it was a mess so I re sanded it and tried again , still didn’t look right, chemically stripped then sanded and applied a min wax stain. It seemed as if the wood would not absorb the color because my mahagony looked somewhat orange . I was told I may have sanded too much and the grain is closed . What can I do? Please help.

  55. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Tabatha,

    If you could email me directly with the grit of the sandpaper that you used, and any other preparation that you have done, some photos and details of products that you have used. And what look you are trying to achieve and hopefully I can offer some advise. Our email is wood@finishes.direct

    Kind Regards Sam.

  56. Angela Says:

    Hi we are having an oak back door fitted this weekend. The new frame is softwood and the sill is hardwood. We are using Osmo uv oil 429 on the door and osmo White 2101 on the frame but we’re not sure what to do with the sill. Being hard wood, it is darker than the oak door. Would it be best painted white like the frame, oil like the door or something different?
    Many thanks
    Angela

  57. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Angela,

    Unfortunately I can not advise you on colour choice as this is down to personal preference, but what I can tell you is that the oil applied to a hard wood could be more difficult the work into the wood. The close grain can make it harder for absorption to take place and so care to apply thin coats is required. You may find that the hardwood has a longer drying time but will still give great protection. Please let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  58. Helen B. Says:

    Hi, I’m theoretically refinishing a table from DARK mahogany to the lovely golden brown underneath. I chemically removed a lot of what seemed to be 100 coats of lacquer and stain. I used 80 by hand for the splotches left dark, then machine 120, then 220. It looks pretty good EXCEPT one of the leaves has a “board” of different, lighter wood (repair maybe?) and the stripes of grain remain stained gray. Think of thin dark gray “veins”. If they had stayed mahogany I wouldn’t mind, but to me it looks like it’s dirty. I’m worried it will look even more like dirt after I “finish” the table with wax/oil. A lot of sanding has made it a little better, but it doesn’t feel right to keep sanding and I need some advice please.
    I’m thinking I can
    A) continue to sand until all gray grain is gone
    B) finishe the table with a stain instead of just wax to make the gray look brown
    C) use colored wax
    D) stop sanding and wax as planned because it’s only a leaf
    Thank you for your input! HB
    PS Now that the area has been sanded more than the others, can I use a pre-stain conditioner to even out absorption before I wax?

  59. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Helen,

    Quite a dilemma for you, the extra sanding can have a affect on the absorption and finish that you will achieve on the the leaf in comparison with the rest of the table. And in all honesty it would be difficult for me to advise you correctly with out seeing some photos of the table. If you are able to get some photos taken in natural light both close up of the problem areas and from a distance and also the other areas of the table for comparison. Add a description as above with the email and mark it FAO Sam and I will happily take look for you and see if there is anything that I can advise.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  60. Lina Parsons Says:

    Hi Sam

    I have just bought a solid Fir Wood table in a natural finish (is untreated). I would like to apply a clear non glossy sealant to protect against spills etc. I really do not know where to start. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I read somewhere that Fir wood does not stain easily. But is this the case with sealant too?

    Thank you

    Lina

  61. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Lina,

    Thank you for you inquiry, you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil this is a durable seal that will protect and nourish the wood, whilst giving a natural finish. It is easy to patch repair should it get marked or stained. I would always recommend a test area first and the Hard Wax Oil is available in sample sizes.

    An alternative would be to apply a Varnish that creates a seal on the surface of the wood, in opposition to the oil that soaks into the wood, and is slightly more durable than the Hard Wax Oil. But is not so easy to repair should the need arise. I hope that helps as a starting point for you and please feel free tolet me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  62. Jac Powell Says:

    Hi. I have a media unit finished in matte walnut veneer which no longer matches the room. It has also changed colour slightly due to sunlight and is now brighter than it was. I’d like to tone down the colour to a greyish brown shade and had considered a grey water based stain, but don’t want the appearance to be overall grey. Could anyone advise on the best product to use? Thank you.

  63. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Jac,

    Making Wood lighter in colour can be difficult and you may be looking at bleaching, which is not something we offer as a product. Please feel free to send in some photos to wood@finishes.direct for me to have a look at, and I will see if there is anything that we can recommend for you project.

    All the Best Ben.

  64. Marlena Says:

    Hi, I would like to stain the floorboards in my front room in amber color. I have sanded them down. However the wood’s color is uneven. The middle part of the floor is darker as it was untreated and covered with rug in the past. The rest of the floor was varnished and after sanding down the color vary and even going to the bare light wood color. Is there any chance I could have an even amber color all over the floor? Which product could I use? Please advise.

  65. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Marlena,

    It is possible but may not be easy. You will need to experiment a little to get the colours even. I would be happy to have a look at some photos of the colour difference if you are able to email them in. I can not give exact stains colours to solve the problem as screen resolutions and photos do not always give a true colour but I can guide you in the right direction. If you can send photos FAO Sam with a description again of the finish that you would like to achieve and we can go from there. Try to take the photos in natural light if you can to avoid any shine.

    Kind regards Sam

  66. Clive Clough Says:

    Hi we currently have our kitchen installed with all solid wood parawood flooring and we want to sand this down and then give it a grey colour.

    Can you recommend to me a product to use to give this a grey look, I would like to be able to amend the colour depth by applying further coats.

  67. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Clive,

    Thank you for your inquiry, you could have a look at Osmo Transparent which has a grey in its range of colours. This product would not offer enough protection for flooring but can be finished with a top coat of Osmo Polyx Oil or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw but I would recommend a test area with both to see which will give you a better finish. The Raw contains some white pigment and may give a lighter finish, whereas the Clear may darken the grey slightly.Thin application is vital.

    It is likely that you will only be able to do one coat of each with this product and for an alternative there is a stain called Driftwood in the Manns Wood Stain Range and you can apply as many coats of this as youlike before finishing with a top coat of the Polyx Oil. I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind Regards Ben.

  68. E Gray Says:

    Can you please advise me on staining a walnut table. The colour now doesn’t look good with all other furnishings in a living room. I’m not sure what protective coating has been applied to the surface of the wood. I think it might be a Danish oil in matt finish. Would I be able to stain it lighter or only darker or neither? Might the finished result turn out blotchy?

  69. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello,

    You can have a look at applying a Tinted oil over the top. Going darker is much more likely to work than trying to go lighter and I would strongly recommend test areas first to ensure compatibility with the current oil on the table and also to ensure you are getting the colour that hope for.

    Wipe over with some White Spirit first to clean and degreaser the surface. I hope the helps and do please let me know if you need any further advice.

    All the Best Sam.

  70. Norman Says:

    I want to stain a plywood ceiling in a small lobby between a kitchen and back door.
    I have tried yellow food dye on an off cut and the wood just soaks the dye up and leaves a dull yellow finish. I have also tried Fiddes Hard Wax oil on the dye and direct to the ply. Both dull.

    I want to have a bright yellow to give some light to the lobby but also want to show the grain. I have tried Mann’s Light Yew and Honey which are nor bad but again all lose their brightness.

    Is there any solution? I dont mind changing the colour as long as I can get a bright finish. Thanks

  71. Martyn Says:

    Hi all.

    I have been staining/dying with Colron Wood Dye American Walnut – the solvent based product – and at the end of my last 500ml tin. I have now found it is discontinued and replaced by the water based dye. Do you know if the colour match will be the same as I need to finish quite a large amount of woodwork?

    Many thanks – Martyn

  72. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Marytn,

    I would suspect that the two although similar will be varied in tone and colour. We do supply another Solvent based Stain where you may be able to find something similar, test areas are recommended to get a true idea of the colour achievable. I hope this helps and if ther is anythong further that I can help with please feel free to get in touch.

    All the Best Ben.

  73. Angela Moss Says:

    Hi, I have a cedar wood chalet that requires new decoration on the outside. It already has old brown paint that has weathered heavily and I have sanded the surface ready. I was thinking of using Sadolin extra durability in teak. Will this cover the old paint sufficiently or could you recommend an alternative ? Many thanks.

  74. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Angela,

    Thank you for your inquiry, I can not recommend the Sadolin unless you are taking it back to bare wood. We would nearly always recommend taking back to bare wood to re apply a new branded product as no company will gaurantee the use of another brands compatibility.

    For paint over a paint situation you may like to look at a product such as the Ronseal Garden Paint or even the Ronseal Decking Rescue Paint but test areas are strongly recommended.

    If you have any other questions please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

    All the Best Ben.

  75. Graeme Says:

    Hi, I’m in a bit of a bind and hoping you can help. Some years ago I purchased a few pieces of M&S Sonoma Dark furniture and it’s been great, so much so that I’m now looking to add a few more pieces. Back when I purchased it originally, each piece came in two colour options – Dark (for example, http://www.marksandspencer.com/sonoma-dark-4-drawer-wide-chest/p/p22151872) and Light (for example, http://www.marksandspencer.com/sonoma-4-wide-drawer-7-day-delivery-/p/p22454734). It seems in the intervening years they’ve discontinued the Dark version of all this range, so you can guess my next question… how realistic would it be to buy the Light version of the pieces I want and then stain/dye/varnish/wax them to get a good match to my existing Dark pieces and, if so, which product(s) would I use? It doesn’t have to be an exact colour match as none of it would be stood side-by-side with the originals, but pretty close would be good as it’ll be in the same room. I should add that my DIY level is only semi-competent amateur, but I’ve never attempted anything like this before… I don’t even know what sort of finish is on the furniture (it doesn’t *seem* like varnish or, at least, it’s not shiny and years of use haven’t worn it through like I might’ve expected with varnish, and I’m not sure it’s wax either as dragging a fingernail over it doesn’t leave a mark… about all I can say with certainty is that water droplets sit on the surface rather than soak in and you can feel the grain of the wood if you run your fingertips lightly over it). Or, am I being way too ambitious and should leave this job to a professional, or indeed completely write it off as a bad idea and start saving as I’ll need to replace all my furniture if I want it to match? Many thanks.

  76. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Graeme,

    Thank you for your inquiry. I have had a look at the links that you sent and the details of the furniture show that it has been treated with a Lacquer. This would need to be removed in order to try to colour match the darker furniture that you have.

    Colour matching for this product will be best achieved with a water based stain but this needs application directly onto the wood and the lacquer will prevent this.Do let me know if you have any further questions or you can email me directly at wood@finishes.direct

    All the Best Sam.

  77. Mark Says:

    I have a piano which needs a small veneer repair to one of the sides, on the corner. I have the unfinished veneer(burr walnut) ready to cut to size, but need to know what the best product is to stain and finish it. The current finish is described as ‘satin walnut’. I will need to build up the stain to get the right colour and finish. What would you advise?

  78. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Mark,

    Thank you for your inquiry. I would have a look at the Manns Pine Wood Stain this has a range of colours and they can be intermixed or lightened with water to try to get a close match. The Teak or the Medium Oak looks to be the closest colour but different screen resolutions can make it difficult to tell and the only real way to know will be with teat areas on the wood that you are treating.

    You can seal this with Manns Extra Tough Interior which will darken the colour of the stain slightly. I hope that helps and if you have any questions please feel free to get back in touch.

    Kind regards Sam.

  79. Michelle Wykes Says:

    Hi, we’ve recently had our pine floors sanded and wiped them with a lightly damp cloth, left it to dry for half an hour and then applied a dark oil-based stain. We now have streaky circular marks. Is this likely from the water on the wet cloth or the sanding? Is there anything we can do about it before we stain the other rooms? Thanks.

  80. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Michelle,

    If the floor was sanded in a circular motion, then this is likely to be the cause of the streaky marks that you are getting, the Oil will be highlighting these imperfections in the wood. I would recommend sanding in the direction of the grain with a belt sander before further application. You might find it useful to watch some videos on our You Tube Channel >>> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7-tgwbsUxm73aVnAjLGHRA the can guide you on the best preparation and application methods for your project. And if you have any questions please do not hesitate to let me know.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  81. Elaine Says:

    Hi there, I’ve recently purchased furniture
    We have made a bed from a very light coloured pine and are hoping to stain/dye it to tie in with the furniture we have bought. Do you have any recommendations?

    Thanks very much.

  82. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Elaine,

    You could have a look at the Manns Pine Wood Stain to see if there is a colour that would match. Test areas are very important because the wood you are applying to will have a direct effect on the overall colour achieved. Also when you apply a top coat product such as Interior Varnish this will darken the colour slightly.

    I hope that helps and feel free to get back in touch should you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  83. Bev Says:

    Hiya.we purchased a solid handmade mahogany fire surround about 14 years ago.lately its got really sticky on the 2 side parts.which are ornamental and thicker than the rest of the surround.i have just put proper beeswax on them but to no avail.please could you advice as we love this piece and had it especially made.hope to hear from you soon.
    Thankyou.
    Bev.

  84. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Bev,

    Would you be able to email me with some photos of the surround and the effected areas. I also need to know which product was on there originally and if you think heat could be having an effect. i am keen to help and look forward to hearing from you.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  85. Diana Says:

    Hi
    I have an old pine mantelpiece which was installed new about twenty years ago. It has now turned that old pine orange colour so I’d like to re-stain it to make it a darker, mid-brown colour. It has a matt finish and is not varnished. I have used spray polish to clean it but generally just dust it.
    Most of it is fairly flat but some parts would be difficult to sand as there are raised curves with a dip in between.
    Please could you advise me on what would be the best way to prepare the mantelpiece for restaining or colouring and which product I should use to stain it.
    Many thanks,
    Diana

  86. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Diana,

    I really need to know a bit more about the finish that is currently on the wood before I can advise further. Also as you have used polish on it there is a chance that some polish residue is left on the surface each time you use it. This could also effect any treatment that I can recommend.

    If you are not sanding back then there is a small test that you can do to get an idea of what is on the wood. Put a couple of drops of oil ( vegetable or Olive from the kitchen cupboard would be fine ) on a inconspicuous area and leave for an hour. If the oil remains unmoved it has a lacquer or vanish on it. If it moves or soaks in it is likely that you have an oil or wax on there.

    Once it is a bit clearer what is currently on there I can advice further, you can answer me on here or email me at wood@finishes.direct

    Kind Regards Sam.

  87. Mark Howard Says:

    Hi,

    I recently sanded the whole of my pine upper floor (4 rooms) and then applied 2 coats of Dark Teak Manns Pine Wood Stain and 3 coats of Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish. I did one room at a time. Although the house is old the pine floorboards are just 40 years old and all in the same condition. In between every coat I lightly hand sanded the surface before the next one and made some attempt to remove the dust with a wet cloth.

    The problem is that only one of the floors has the dark consistent finish that I was looking for and the other floors not only have slightly different darkness, but also, in bright sunlight they have a very pronounced green hue. I suspect that this is caused by me the leaving some of the dust on the wood and/or too much sanding between coats to remove raised grain areas.

    Is this possible ? Do you have a product that I can simply apply to give the impression of a more consistent darkness and take away the green hue ? Perhaps a dark teak stain varnish ? If so does this need to be water based too ? Please do not suggest sanding everything down again because this is not an option !

  88. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Mark,

    Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I would be happy to take a look at some photos if you are able to sell them via email to wood@finishes.direct. I wouldn’t expect the Dark Teak to create a green hue to it as the base colour for this is red. But at this stage the only product that I can really recommend to go over the current treatment is the Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish a test area would need to be done to ensure compatibility. But I am happy to help further if you would like to send me an email.

    Kind regards Sam.

  89. Sue Says:

    Hi,
    I had some internal pine wooden shutters made a few years ago. They were treated by the joiner that made them however they are now becoming discoloured by the sun. We want to keep the wood with a natural colour, what would you recommend for coating the shutters and keep that natural pine colouring.
    Regards
    Sue

  90. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Sue,

    Are you able to tell me what they are treated with currently as this will determine what you can use over the top. Or if you are planning to strip back to bare wood then you could have a look at the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra this will protect the wood and enhance the grain of the wood.

    It may help bring out some colour in the wood but a test area should be done first to see. If it does not produce the desired colour then you could have a look at Natural Oil Woodstain which will protect and colour at the same time.

    I would also recommend a first coat of the Osmo WR Basecoat as this will protect from mould, mildew and rot. Test areas are strongly recommended and please do let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  91. Tony R Says:

    Hi Sam, I hope you can help me

    I’ve had some wooden window beading replaced and they have done it a with a light coloured soft wood. The rest of the surrounds (hardwood) had already been stained to a dark mahogany and I’m now struggling to get the new soft wood to match the darkness. Its had 3 coats but it is still very light and no where near matching the existing. I’m happy to sand back and start again but is there anything you can suggest to remedy this.
    Thanks in advance

  92. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Tony,

    As you are already discovering, colour matching can be difficult. If you haven’t already you could have a look at the Manns Water Based Stain it has a wide range of colours that can be intermixed or lightened by adding water.

    And also when you add a top coat product such as Osmo Polyx Oil or Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish this will enhance and slightly darken the colour. The colour of the wood you are applying to will have an effect on the end result colour that you will achieve and this is why test areas will be important, but the water based stains will wash off with warm water if the test areas are not to your taste. I hope that helps and we also have some great videos over on our You Tube page https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7-tgwbsUxm73aVnAjLGHRA and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

    Kind regards Sam.

  93. Isabella Says:

    Hi,

    We have a brushed oil engineered oak floor which is showing signs of wear. We also want to change the colour from its current orangey-honey tone to a darker french oak type colour (similar to this: http://www.directwoodflooring.co.uk/bronzed-old-french-oak-oiled-engineered-wood-flooring.html)

    Is this possible if we get the floors sanded professionally first? What preparation / products do we need to use to achieve this colour and also protect the stain from wearing off? A flooring company recommended installing Karndean/wood-look flooring on top of our oak as he thought any stain on an already oiled floor wouldn’t last but it seems criminal to cover up real wood with fake!

    Many thanks, Isabella

  94. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Isabella,

    I would recommend you take a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints these are available in sample sizes and if you have a inconspicuous area that you can do a small test on, I would expect this to go over an existing oil with out any problems. Especially if it has not been oiled for a while. The test area will show you if the colour is right for you and also if the oil is suitable for use over the existing finish and is absorbed in to wood.

    If you find that the oil does not work over the top then you are faced with having to sand back the existing finish and then reoiling. The Tints are great because two thin coats will colour and protect. I hope that helps and if you have any questions please do let me know.

    We also have some great videos on our You Tube Channel with hints and tips >>> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7-tgwbsUxm73aVnAjLGHRA

    Kind regard Sam.

  95. Andrew Says:

    Hi Sam,

    We have some Beaver & Tapley cabinets and shelves in teak finish and wish to change the colour to something similar to Beaver & Tapley’s burgundy oak finish. Presumably we would need to give the wood a light sand but then what product(s)/brands would you recommend to darken the colour and produce a similar satin-like finish – a wood oil, a wax or something else? Any advice you could give would be most welcome. Many thanks, Andrew

  96. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Andrew,

    Unfortunately I can’t get onto the website. But what I can recommend will depend on the the current finish on the furniture. Unless you are planning on sanding back completely. I would recommend looking at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints these will colour and protect in one. If you are able to let me know what product is currently on there I can advice further or if you would like to call and talk to one of our advisers, our freephone number is 0800 7818 123

    Kind Regards Sam.

  97. Martin Says:

    Some 14 years ago the bare floorboards in the living room were covered with Sadolin Extra Durable Wood Stain (Exterior, Semi-gloss, Jacobean Walnut). We’ve walked on the planks every day for 14 years, and the finish hasn’t worn at all.

    I was intending to buy more of this product and use it on the bare floorboards in the bedroom.

    But I now see, on the Sadolin Extra Durable Wood Stain tin that was left with us, that it says ‘not suitable for use on floors or decking’. Why does it say this? Is there some reason I shouldn’t use this product? If so, what should be used instead?

  98. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Martin,

    Sadolin recommend that Extra Durable Woodstain is not used on decking due to its high surface build and shiny finish. This product is likely to wear quicker than a dedicated decking stain or oil and could pose a slip hazard. It is also not recommended for interior use and so I can not recommend it as a product for your flooring. That said you have had it on the floor for a number of years and are happy with it and so there is no reason that you can not choose to use it again.

    If you would like an alternative product to look at and you are not planning on removing the current finish then it would need to be a varnish such as Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish although a test area would need to be done to ensure that the two are compatible. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  99. Helen Says:

    I have a light oak (I think) limed g-plan dining table which had been stripped and painted. I have now stripped the paint as didn’t like it and was hoping to take it back to the wood and then give it a finish. Unfortunately the table extension panels have come up a completely different colour, probably due to the fact that these weren’t used very often and didn’t get the light or wear. Do you think with sanding these will come up the same colour and also what finish would you suggest considering this is a dining table and gets a lot of use – wax or varnish

  100. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Helen,

    It can be difficult to bring wood back together to match when one area has been used and exposed more than other areas but Oxalic Acid is good for restoring wood to its original colour and so could be worth a try, but always do a test area first to ensure there is no adverse reactions.

    Once you have the wood as you would like it then you can think about a treatment. I would not recommend a wax as this is not durable enough for a dining table. Instead I would recommend looking at a Extra Tough Interior Varnish this is a durable and long lasting finish that seals over the surface of the wood.

    Alternatively you could have a look at the Hard Wax Oil from Fiddes, which will not last as long as varnish but is still very durable and easier to maintain and repair over time. It gives a more natural look and feel to the wood and can be patch repaired if needed.

    If you have a read up on the recommended products and if you have any questions please do let me know.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  101. Betty Thompson Says:

    My husband has sawed some red oak boards and had them planed to use on a wall in a timber frame room. What would we use on the boards to keep the color that we have now. We don’t want them to change color.

  102. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Betty,

    If the wood is going to be especially exposed to sunlight you may want to look at applying a product such as Osmo Uniwax which with regular maintenance will help to prevent the silvering effect of the sun. This product may darken the wood slightly and give what we call the ‘ wet look ‘ and so it is important to always try a test area first.

    Kind Regard Sam

  103. Ian Says:

    Hi,

    I have stained a pine fire surround with Sadolin extra wood stain. Can I finish the top of the mantle-piece with Tung oil?

    Thanks.
    Ian.

  104. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Ian,

    If you are applying it to bare wood then yes, any previous product left on the surface may prevent penetration of the Tung Oil. If you have any further questions please do let me know.

    kind Regards Sam.

  105. Ron Wall Says:

    Hi Im refurbishing an old singer sowing machine table ive DA’d it to a 1000 grit its like glass now to me the veneer looks like oak but I really dont know i wonder if you could advise what is the best type of stain to use, I believe the colour dark walnut

    Regards

    Ron

  106. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Ron,

    I think if you are able to send me some photos, we can go from there. If you can tell me what look you are hoping to achieve and what the table is going to be used for and we can go from there. Also do you think that there is any previous treatment left on the wood ? You can email me at wood@finishes.direct.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  107. Dave hsrding Says:

    Hi
    We have recently stained and polished a bar countertop in black,however it does not appear to be wearing well and showing a lot of scratch marks
    We have done this with oak mahogany stains with no issues
    Is there an application or an alternative out there we could progress
    Thanks
    Dave

  108. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Dave,

    Can you tell me what products you have used and how many coats. Black is a colour that can show marks easily but with the right product and enough coats you can get a stunning finish.

    I recommend the Manns Water based Dye for an intense black or Manns Stain for a more translucent finish. And then a top Coat of the Manns Bar Top Lacquer 3- 5 coats will give a good durable finish and any surface scratches that occur will be in the varnish rather than the black and so will show less. I hope that helps and if you have any questions please do let me know. Always try a test area first.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  109. John Kehily Says:

    Hi,
    I just bought a shed that is made of a Scandinavian Deal Wood. I was advised by the manufacturer to use an oil based coating to treat it as it was already pre treated with an oil based substance. I can see there is a range of oil based stains that i can use however I wanted to paint the shed grey to match the fence. Is it possible to paint it grey on top of the oil based treatment that is already on it?
    Many thanks
    John

  110. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello John,

    You cannot apply paint over an oil based product, there are likely to be adhesion issues. I would recommend you have a look at the Natural Oil Woodstain as there are a couple of grey options in this range. The Natural Oil Wood stain will colour and protect in two coats and I believe would be ideal for your project. Always try a test area first and if you have any further questions please do let me know.

    Kind regards Sam.

  111. Kim Says:

    Hi Sam,

    I have a lovely antique bed with some intricate designs framing the headboard. The finish is in very good condition, very smooth to the touch. However, the wood appears, to me at least, to be somewhat faded overall. I do not want to touch the lovely finish that is has so my question is this: is there a product (like a wax or polish) that I can apply that will darken the wood without sanding and staining. It is not that I am looking for the lazy way out. I just feel that the look and feel of the current finish is too perfect to be messed with.

    I appreciate your thoughts, Kim

  112. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Kim,

    As you have a finish on the wood already that you do not wish to alter, the best option for you would be the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish it is available in colour and will add a refreshing look to your wood. It can be applied over a varnish and buffed to a shine if you wish. Always try a test area first and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

    All the Best Sam.

  113. Jim van den Bos Says:

    Hi,
    We’ve an Arts & Crafts stained wooden staircase in dark palisander. What type of stain would you recommend to touch up the worn corners of the uprights and the scratch marks in something that could handle the wear?
    Many thanks
    Jim

  114. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Jim,

    Can you tell me a little more about the finish that you currently have on the staircase? Is it a varnish or oil finish? What type of wood is it ? It might be easier if you are able to sent some photos to me via our email and I can take a look for you. wood@finishes.direct

    Kind Regards Sam.

  115. Andy Ledgeway Says:

    Hi there. We have just installed green oak sleepers as a small garden retaining wall for a raised bed. They have a good finish -relatively smooth and flat with very little lift in the grain. Currently the wood is pretty dry and clean. To avoid them going grey we want to stain them in either light or dark oak. This is primarily a visual treatment- we are relying on the oaks natural resistance to achieve longevity. We wish to avoid discolouration and mould developing but maintaining the appearance of the grain through the stain. We only plan to treat the visible surfaces. Can you advise a suitable product? Thanks.

  116. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Andy,

    Thank you for your inquiry, you could have a look at the Premier Wood Preservative from Barrettine. It will give good protection and contains wax which repels the water that is the cause of most damage to wood. It is available in a range of colours that might suit your needs also. To coats can be applied and the darker the colour the more UV protection the wood gets.

    An alternate product which is more about repelling moisture rather than mould and mildew protection is the Natural Oil Woodstain it is an oil that soaks into the surface of the wood and is easy to repair and maintain. If you have a read up of products and let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Sam.

  117. steve Says:

    Hello, I am refurbishing an 1890’s house and decided to ‘vault’ the ceiling to provide a more open feel to a small room. This has involved removing the old lath and plaster ceiling and of course revealed the beams. I’ve wire brushed most of the dirt from them and am now happy they are ready for finishing. I want to disguise the lath pattern a bit but keep the general wood grain visible.
    I therefore ask for advice on a suitable stain.
    Thank you

  118. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Steve,

    Could you tell me what you mean by lath pattern ? Perhaps email some photos to me at wood@finishes.direct and I will happily take a look for you.

    As a starting point though you could have a look at the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish which we often recommend for exposed beams. For application to slightly rough wood I would recommend the Coarse Brush it will help to avoid wax build up in crevices that can leave a white finish.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  119. Dannii Says:

    I have a chunky farmhouse style kitchen table that Iv recently sanded down, I believe it’s pine. I’m looking for a slate grey/graphite sort of colour so wondering what are my best options.

  120. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Dannii,

    You could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Transparent which has a few colours in it that may suit your needs.

    It is an oil that soaks into the surface of the wood and leaves it looking and feeling very natural whilst giving great protection. It is also easy to repair and maintain over time. If you have read up on the product and let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to help.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  121. Rebecca Says:

    Hi Sam

    We are renovating some rooms in an old french house and have sanded all the pine wood in various places back to the natural colour. We want to now tint/ stain the wood a medium French oak colour – hopefully getting a close- ish match

    What products do you recommend for the following:

    1. Exposed pine ceiling beams (we would like a smooth Matt finish which will wipe clean of dust but minimal future maintenance)
    2. Pine intern window frames and sills (again a smooth, Matt finish but would need to repel water due to the condensation)
    3. Internal pine doors. We have small children so wipeable would be good.

    I recently tested one of the doors and waxed it in a tinted wax. It looked amazing, however the wax has started to bubble in places. Why would this be? Is it wet hands on it? Wet droplets? (It’s the bathroom door)

    Thank you so much for any recommendations
    Rebecca

  122. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Rebecca,

    For all of your projects, I would recommend looking at the Holzol Floor Oil Tints although it is marketed for flooring it would be suitable for use on a number of other interior projects such as doors and frames and architrave. It can also be used on beams although the durability is not required for beams and so for an alternative you could have a look at the Fiddes Supreme Wax polish.

    The wax that is bubbling could be down to humidity and temperature changes within the bathroom, but its difficult to say. Wax is not something that we would recommend for a bathroom door and you could remove that wax and consider the Holzol for that as well. Have a look at the product and if you have any questions please feel free to let me know.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  123. ian davies Says:

    i have a rosewood fire surround but would like to change it to a pine effect color what paint would you recommend to use it already has a protective coat on it but would really like to chnge it to a pine effect to match the rest of the house any thoughts thanks

  124. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Ian,

    Rosewood can be quite a dark wood, with a strong red tinge and I would expect that lightening too a Pine may be a difficult project. I would be happy to take a look at some photos for you and see if I can make any suggestions. You can email me at wood@finishes.direct.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  125. Linda Says:

    Hello,
    We are having pine kitchen units installed, which will be painted, the sealed. My question is regarding what type of sealant/clear varnish is recommended for the internal of the oven housing, please?
    Thank you

  126. Sam Taylor-Casey Says:

    Hello Linda,

    Are you able to tell me little more about your project please. What paint is being used, and what colour? You can email us at wood@finishes.direct and I will be able to advice you further.

    Kind Regards Sam.

  127. Claire Says:

    Hello,
    My husband bought a large piece of Yew to use as a table top (though I asked for oak or pine to match our current furniture), sanded it down (lovely light colour) then started to apply layers of Danish oil. I hate the effect it’s far too orange, is there a way to correct the colour so it’s more like an aged pine or light oak?
    Thank you

  128. Taylor Says:

    Hello Claire,

    Thank you for your inquiry. Yew can make a beautiful table top, we have one in our office here at Wood Finishes Direct. You can remove the Danish oil with some White Spririt so that you are back to bare wood and then as you find that a clear product is creating too orange a finish, you could have a look at a tinted oil Tinted Oil from Holzol, the Oak is a pale natural colour that may counteract the natural orange tones of the wood.

    Alternatively applying a wood stain to help counteract the orange, French Oak or Light Oak are possibilities but you need to choose based on the colours you can see on the wood itself, and then seal with a clear product such as Worktop Oil for protection. You would need to carry out test areas for sure as the colour of the wood you are applying to will have an impact on the colour that can be achieved.

    If you have a read up of the products and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions

    Kind Regards Samantha.

  129. Giles Says:

    Hi, I am ordering some new mahogany furniture. I want a stain applied to get the typical medium dark red colour, but I also want a breathable wax finish. The seller seals the stain with nitrocellulose typically. I however want to have a beeswax finish and no lacquer or varnish. I gather there can be problems of the stain fading or getting rubbed off though without some seal. Can you advise the best stain to use and what if any breathable non lacquer or varnish seal, prior to waxing?

    Thanks – I am struggling to solve this problem – all the advice I can find is to varnish or lacquer but I know from the pieces of Victorian furniture I own that there are other techniques were used

  130. Sam Says:

    Hello Giles,

    So would I be right in thinking that when you get this piece of furniture it will have no treatment on it ? Or are you getting it with the Nitro cellulose applied ?

    If you are receiving at as bare wood then you could consider the Light fast Wood Stain `to get the colour that you want and then apply a Hard Wax Oil to give protection.

    I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

    Kind Regards Samantha.

  131. judy kennedy Says:

    Hi

    I have a sanded pine floor slightly yellow. I would like a light oak effect. I like that really light almost whitish oak. What could I get to achieve this look as I want to avoid a yellowy wood look. Thank you

  132. Sam Says:

    Hello Judy,

    It can be difficult to tone down the natural yellow tones of pine without darkening the colour a bit. You could have a look at the Pine Wood Stain to get the colour. The good thing about these, are that they are very versatile, they can be intermixed to create a new colour or the can be lightened by adding water.

    And then a top coat product such as Manns Flooring Oil that will seal and protect the floor as well as enhancing the colour and natural look and feel of the wood.

    For more product recommendations and application tips you can visit our You Tube Channel >>> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7-tgwbsUxm73aVnAjLGHRA and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

    Always try a test area first.

    Kind Regards Samantha.

  133. patsy scullion Says:

    I am going to try to give my wooden round back chairs a face-lift. I want to paint the back and underneath meaning legs and such in a stone grey satin finish but I want to do the seat in a stain or varnish that will compliment the chairs kind of a contemporary country look . Could you please advise me Samantha ?

  134. Sam Says:

    Hello Patsy,

    You could have a look at the Wood Wax Finish Transparent or the Wood Wax Finish Intensive these are both oils that need application to bare wood and will still allow you to see the grain of the wood. For an opaque grey effect you could look at the Eco Chic from Earthborn, which is a V.O.C free paint.

    For the seat area the above Osmo products also have clear oils in the range that you could use or alternative colours that may suit. If you ave a read up of the products recommended and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

    Kind regards Samantha.

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