Add several coats of varnish to wood and it will enhance the natural colour of the timber, delivering a lovely, rich sheen. Varnish protects wood, providing a durable surface that helps to prevent damage and keeps it in good condition. So far, so simple. But there’s a bewildering array of wood floor varnish and other products on the market. Here’s our guide to varnishing wood and wood varnishing finishes, with a few handy product recommendations thrown in.
Wood varnish guide
How to varnish wood?
Whatever product you want to use, as a general rule, you will have to completely remove any existing varnish, waxes, oils, wood stains, dust, dirt, grease, uneven areas and sticky stuff before applying a wood varnish.
Your workspace needs to be dust and dirt free, otherwise it can collect on the surface of the wood and the freshly applied varnish, spoiling the sheen and smooth finish.
It’s best to use a brush with natural rather than synthetic bristles for oil-based finishes, and synthetic brushes (often called ‘nylon’ brushes) for acrylic or water-based varnishes. But you can also use rollers or rags for both kinds of finish.
Every wood varnish product is very slightly different. All the products we sell come with detailed instructions and you should always follow them to the letter. With varnishes, short cuts invariably mean you won’t get the quality finish that you were hoping for. Here are some useful generic tips:
7 tips for varnishing wood
- Vacuum the area to remove dust and dirt, before starting work. A slightly damp mop also works well for removing sanding dust from the surface of the floor
- Choose a day when the weather isn’t too humid. Varnish will dry slower in humid or cold conditions, and there’s more chance of dust and dirt settling on your project before it’s fully dry, which means you’ll have an imperfect finish. If working indoors, use the heating to get the room temperature somewhere between 20 and 25°C. If the room is too hot, the varnish will dry too fast and messy bubbles might form
- Remove any existing varnish or finish with a suitable paint and varnish remover / stripper. Sand the wood to remove any surface imperfections, then use a damp cloth to remove any debris and let the wood dry
- The first coat can be thinned if required but this isn’t necessary with many of the modern water-based varnishes. Leave it to dry for 24 hours, then sand it with fine sandpaper and wipe down with a damp cloth or vacuum to remove the dust
- Apply your first coat of pure varnish, working with the grain, then let it dry completely
- Create a key by gently sanding the surface with very fine sandpaper
- Apply as many more coats as you need, generally 2 to 3 coats is the norm, but additional coats can be applied for greater depth of finish, gently sanding in between each coat. Don’t sand your last-but-one or final coat, and go with the grain for the final coat for a super-smooth finish
Choosing the right wood varnish
Varnish, polyurethane, lacquer and Shellac…they’re all different and they’re not supposed to be interchangeable. So what’s the score? Let’s look at a few different types of wood varnish.
Shellac varnish
First there’s Shellac varnish, something we’re asked about frequently. But what exactly is Shellac? It’s actually a natural resin secreted by an insect called a lac beetle, which lives in Indian and Thai forests. The substance comes exclusively from the female insect and is scraped off the tree branches, processed into dry flakes then mixed with ethanol to create a liquid. The end product has lots of interesting functions; it is used as a food glaze and colouring as well as a wood varnish.
It’s a remarkable material. As well as a durable natural primer it seals, blocks tannin and smells, stains wood and acts as a high-gloss varnish. It has excellent insulation properties, keeps moisture out and was even used to make old-school 78 rpm gramophone records.
Shellac used to be the most popular wood finish on the planet until polyurethane came along, a much more durable, heat and chemical-resistant material with a longer shelf life. These days, since it is compatible with most other finishes, Shellac is often used as a barrier or primer to prevent wood stains from blotching. It’s a major ingredient in Manns Trade Shellac Sanding Sealer, which we sell on-site, ideal for blocking knots in wood, filling open grains and covering fine scratches.
Polyurethane varnish
Polyurethane is a plastic in liquid form. It comes as either a water based varnish or an oil based varnish, anything from satin varnish to high gloss and absolute matt. The Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish that we stock is a great example of a high performance varnish which has anti-bacterial properties making it suitable for use on kitchen surfaces and utilities as well as bathroom floors and furniture. It’s also safe to use on wooden children’s toys.
Water-based varnishes
Water-based varnishes have come a long way over the last decade or so and are now just as good or better than the traditional spirit-based varnishes used in the past. Excellent examples of modern day water-based varnishes include Polyvine Heavy Duty Interior Wood Varnish, for interior doors and furniture and Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish for floors and staircases. If you’re looking for a strong, general purpose, water-based varnish that can be used for almost any project, Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is certainly worth consideration.
- Low odour
- Low toxicity
- Goes on clear without adding colour
- Dries much faster than oil-based varnishes
- Doesn’t stand heat and chemicals very well
- Ideal for indoor wooden items that are protected from the extremes of temperature you get outdoors
- Can be applied over latex or acrylic paint without adding colour
Oil-based varnishes
- Slightly more durable than water-based varnish
- Handles heat better
- Adds a slight colour to enhance the wood
- Must be used in a well-ventilated space
- Takes much longer to dry and cure than water-based
- Can be applied over latex or acrylic paint, adding slight colour
Spray varnish
Spray varnish is wonderful if you have large areas to cover, and is ridiculously easy to apply. Take Morrells Nitrocellulose Lacquer Sprays, which come in a broad variety of sheen levels and offers a convenient way of applying a solvent-based spray lacquer without the need for a dedicated spray system. Interestingly, it comes highly recommended by luthiers, who say it’s perfect for varnishing guitars.
Floor varnish
Although floor varnish is generally thought of as a clear product, there are in fact a wide range of pigmented versions such as Ronseal Diamond Hard Coloured Floor Varnish, which comes in six attractive natural wood shades, to produce a remarkably hard-wearing, satin sheen finish.
Lacquer
Believe it or not, lacquers are the same as varnishes. The trade often use the term ‘lacquer’, while the general public tend to use the term ‘varnish’.
Acrylic varnish
Acrylic varnishes are usually water-based. They offer very high transparency levels and don’t go yellow. They are easier to clean up and don’t give off fumes, but don’t tend to penetrate the wood as well as oil-based products. They feature good UV-resistance and dust resistance, and are often used by artists to seal and protect paintings, sometimes with special ultraviolet light resistors to protect the paint against light.
Marine varnish
You’ve guessed it… marine varnish is simply a super-durable product formulated especially to withstand being submerged in salt or fresh water. It’s brilliant for boats, and
US marine fitters Defender have created a handy guide to varnishing boats.
Need help choosing the right wood varnish for the job?
No problem. Just give us a call for free expert advice you can trust. Alternatively, see our wood varnish FAQ page which covers many of the most commonly asked questions about wood varinishes.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your decking project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
Other great blogs that discuss about wood varnishes
A guest post by Kate Goldstone
Hi. We’ve just had a new staircase fitted made from new, untreated. I wanted to darken the wood up a little to achieve more of an oak colour, so have applied 1 coat of Ronseal Diamond floor varnish in Light Oak. However, the wood now has a green tinge to it, & still feels quite rough to touch. Should i rub down, apply more & hope the colour improves, or try something else? Would a wax be better? Many thanks
Hello Isabelle,
It sounds like the varnish is bringing out the natural tones of the wood you are applying to. I would recommend trying a test area of the varnish to see how this impacts on the colour. If you find that it is still not to your liking you may need to consider removing the varnish and trying again with an alternative colour or product.
You could apply a water based stain first one with a red tone to it to counter act the green or the base wood, but again a test area is recommended, with the top coat product, as this will darken the colour also. See how you get on and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
Test areas are the key to getting the right finish, see how you get on and if you have any further questions please do let me know.
Hi
We have a dresser made for a whole kitchen wall which one of the previous owners of the house varnished in the 70s! Its a lovely piece of furniture but has now gone very orangey yellow. It would be very fiddly to sand the whole thing down. Could I possibly use an antique pine varnish over this, after thorough cleaning, to improve its appearance?
Thanks
Marianne
Hello Marianne,
A test area is going to be the best way to find out. Applying a colour over a previous finish can work fine but the base colour can have an effect on the colour that you are applying. You would also need to check for compatibility, the test area will show any adverse reactions. Ensuring that there are no breaks in the seal or areas that are flaking to avoid damage after a fresh coat is applied. Let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi. I am considering refinishing a fruitwood chunky dining table. First how can I tell which kind of finish is on the table and secondly I am thinking of stripping the present finish and brush varnishing a new finish on the top can you recommend the best varnish / finish and stain to use and indeed stripper. Thanks Regards Colin.
Hello Colin,
If you have an inconspicuous area where you can put a couple of drops of oil from the kitchen cupboard (Veg or Olive) is fine and leave on the surface for around an hour. If the oil soaks in you have an oil or wax on the surface and if it remains unmoved then a varnish.
To remove Oils and waxes the best option is sanding or wiping with white spirits, depending on what the oil is will depend on the need for sanding. For removal of varnish you could have a look at the Paint Panther and Varnish Remover which will make the varnish bubble up for scraping off.
Once you are back to bare wood, then you are ready to get a fresh treatment on the wood. Fiddes Hard Wax Oil will give a natural look and feel to the wood and is hard wearing and durable, whereas Manns Extra Tough Varnish will seal on the surface giving a tough durable finish. If you have a read up of those products and let me know if you have any other questions.
All the Best Sam.
I have a number of furniture items that I am planning to varnish over the coming weeks. The items are as follows:
– teak 1960’s dining table and chair set
– teak 1960’s sideboard
– Elm ercol easy chairs
I have sanded all items down using a combination of hand sanding and machine. I would like to apply matt varnish to all items. I have a couple of questions that I would be very grateful if you could answer to help me choose the type of varnish I need to purchase.
1) I am looking for a fairly water resistant surface for the table as I don’t want to have to rely on table coverings. Would this involve applying more than 2 coats of varnish and is a matt varnish not suitable?
2) I was looking into spray matt products as I was under the impression that their application gave a more uniform finish. Would you recommend these? Are they good for chair legs?
Thank you in advance.
Anna
Hello Anna,
Firstly my apologies for the delay in getting back to you. Some inquiries have got lost in the system. Anyway, for your project I would recommend the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish. It is durable and hard wearing and would be ideal for your furniture. It is available in a matt finish and this will not impact on the durability. It can also be spray applied and this will give a thinner more even finish.
I would always recommend a test area first to ensure you are getting the finish that you want. And if you have any further questions please do let me know.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi
I make lots of crafts and I have taken up decorating MDF & birch plywood items, using acrylic art paints, I need a good gloss to go over them and a waterproof one please for outdoor use. What ones would you suggest please? I live in the UK.
Thanks
Hello Arabella,
You could have a look at the Dulux Yacht Varnish. This is the only exterior varnish that we have that may go over paint but I would strongly recommend a test area first to check for compatibility and adhesion. I hope that helps and please let me know if you have any other questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi
I have just painted my bedroom floorboards in chalky white with Rust-Oleum Floor Paint. The floor boards are of a dark brown stain and in good condition. We sanded them first with an electric sander and have just applied the first coat, anticipating a further 2 coats. I would like to give it a gloss finish and although it doesn’t say on the tin that its necessary to seal it for durability, it would give me peace of mind. Would a yachting varnish be suitable and give it a glossier finish or would you recommend a different product?
Thanks for your help,
Sally
Hello Sally,
Can you tell me if it is the Chalky Finish Floor paint or something different that you have used ? Its difficult for me to recommend with confidence, a product to go over the top with out knowing the exact product that you have used. If it is the Chalky Paint I would expect you to be able to go over it with a varnish but this will have an effect on the colour, potentially making the white look cream or give a yellow tinge to it. But should you wish to apply a clear varnish I would recommend the Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish. Spray application would be best to avoid pulling the paint during application. And I would strongly recommend test areas first.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi All,
I’m looking for some advice please.
We are having untreated engineered oak flooring in our lounge. The floor is a rustic finish with lots of knots and grain variation. We have children, a dog and cats.
We are looking for something to finish the floor that will not alter the colour and that has no “shine”. It also needs to be quick drying so am guessing water based.
Our joiner recommended Ronseal Diamond Hard Varnish but it is a satin finish and I’m not convinced it won’t make the oak look yellow/orange.
I have seen a product that I have never heard of called Skylt. It claims to be the only one of its kind, is a varnish, quick drying, non solvent, doesn’t alter colour and leaves natural finish. Downside is it is £170 for 4L.
Another alternative that has been recommended is Blanchon Original Wood Environment. It looks like a cream that goes on easily, dries quickly, doesn’t alter colour and leaves floor looking like it has had no product etc but I’m not sure how tough it will be in terms of scratching as if isn’t a varnish.
Any help or recommendations would be really useful
Thanks
Hello Vicki,
Unfortunately I can not comment on the products that you have mentioned as I am unfamiliar with them. But I can recommend Bona Mega Natural, which is designed to keep the wood looking as natural as possible and give a medium level of durability and is recommended for domestic floors.
For something that is that little bit extra and we recommend for high traffic and retail use is the Bona Traffic HD, which is a two part lacquer and is more durable and can be put into full use after around 24 hours. Have a read up on the products and if you have any questions please do let me know. Always try a test area first.
Kind regards Sam.
I have just varnished my newly stripped 1930s doors with clear satin polyurethane varnish. I have noticed that the doors have gone from a pine colour to an almost brown colour. Will it change back If not can I remove the varnish and start again or do the doors have to be stripped again
Hello Maureen,
Most clear products, whether they be oil or varnish are likely to darken the wood a little and give what we call the wet look. Many people like this as it enhances the grain. There are products that are designed to reduce this darkening effect such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural but you would need to remove the existing varnish in order to use this product. I hope that helps and please feel free to get in touch if you have any other questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi, we have just built a macrocarpa wooden bench. After putting teak oil stain on it very brown marks have shown up. Is there anything we can do to rescue it?
Hello Louise,
Are you able to send me any photos so that I can take a look for you. Hopefully I will be able to make some suggestions. You can email FAO Sam at wood@finishes.direct
Kind Regards Sam.
Hi. I am looking for a matt varnish to stop a pine cladding interior from yellowing over time. Any recommendations? Thanks.
Hello Matt,
The Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is a non yellowing varnish that comes in 4 different sheen levels and would be suitable for use on your interior cladding. Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Sam.
I am making a console table from american light oak. I want to achieve a lacquered finish. What would you recommend using and what level of finish?
Hello Kevin,
You could have a look at the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish it comes in 4 sheen levels and is no yellowing and easy to apply. Have a read up of the product overview and if you have any questions please do let me know. Always remember test areas.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi I have an old teachers desk which I am going to sand I then want to achieve a high gloss finish over old maps on the top, can you give me an idea of which product would be best? Thanks Aesther
Hello Esther,
I would recommend looking at the Polyvine Decorators Varnish for your project. You should do a test area first to ensure that there are no issues with pulling or damage to the maps, but if you are applying and sealing with a PVA then there should be no issues. I would be interested to see the results of your project and if you want to share then you can email me at wood@finishes.direct
Kind Regards Sam.
Good morning,
I have just sanded back the staircase in our new house and love the look of the bare wood. I tried a tester section with a matt varnish and it darkened dramatically and finished in a very red colour which I don’t like. It obviously needs something to protect it but I don’t want to darken it too much or bring out the red of the natural wood. I am thinking of using a wax with a natural oak colour and then varnishing over that which will darken it but at least will remove some of the red colour, do you think this is a good option? Any recommendations would be much appreciated.
Thank you
Hello Kat,
I would not recommend applying a varnish over a wax there is likely to be adhesion problems when doing this. There is a product that is designed to leave the wood looking as natural as possible whilst still giving excellent protection Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural is a durable finish and is available in sample sizes so that you can try test areas. I would recommend the sample size first as I can not guarantee that this will not still enhance the red tones of the wood also but it may be more suited to your needs.
I hope that helps and please do get in touch if you have any further questions.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi there,
I have had Meranti timber used for my new fencing which I want to retain the beautiful colour of. My builder has recommended using a Water Seal which I can see protects it from water ingress and therefore any rotting but I’m not sure it will enliven its colour at all. Other options include a teak type oil (ideally a clear rarher than yellow, perhaps with the water repellent on top) or could I consider a yacht type varnish. I would definitely want it to be matt and not look like the wood has anything applied to it.
Can you advise me on products that may be suitable.
Much appreciated.
Hello,
Thank you for your inquiry, I would recommend having a look at any of the Decking Oils as these would be suitable for your fence or the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment.
These are all oil products that will offer great UV Protection and water repellency. Test areas are recommended and to ensure that you like the finish but also that the oil will absorb okay as you are applying it to a Hardwood. The oil will darken the wood slightly. I would not recommend a varnish for fencing, although the Yacht varnish will be tough and durable it will peel and flake over time. And then need fully stripping back before you can re-apply.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions feel free to get in touch.
All the Best Sam.
Hi
I am in the process of restoring my wooden framed conservatory, it currently has a awful brown finish on it internally & externally which I am sanding back to the natural wood. Once I have finished sanding I would like to apply a product to protect the wood from the elements, has a gloss effect, low maintenance and keeps the natural color of the wood. Can you advise me on a suitable product please.
Thank you
Hello Wendy,
Thank you for your inquiry, we don’t have many gloss finishes for an exterior finish but you could have a look at the Sadolin Quick Drying Wood Preserver as a first coat treatment to protect and then the Sadolin Extra Durable Clearcoat is available in a gloss finish. Please read all details on the products and always try a test area first. And if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get back in touch.
All the Best Ben.
Hi there, I have recently bought a table and it’s made of solid oak. It’s a bit rough to touch (risk of splinters etc) and has also stained slightly from glasses that have been placed straight on the table would table matts. I’ve added two coats of Osmo kitchen work top Oil 3058 clear Matt, but I feel like it’s not done anything? What can I do to make the table less rough and also prevent it from causing these staining, and also with things like food and red wine if it goes on the table?
Thank you!
Hello Raghad,
The Osmo Top Oil is a very durable and hard wearing treatment that will leave the wood protected and water repellent. It is Micro porous and standing liquid will eventually soak in to and stain the wood but the Top Oil is repellent and very protective when applied correctly. It will not however smooth out rough wood as application is thin.
You may find that the oil is not working as it should because the wood hasn’t been sanded to the recommend grit of 120- 150. This sanding will smooth the wood in preparation for a very thin application of the oil. And the Oil will then create a protective seal in the surface of the wood. I hope that makes sense for you and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind regards Sam.
We had most of the ground floor of our house sanded just before Christmas about 125m2. The boards are old (not sure how old) and had a dark brown stain / colour. We employed a ‘professional’ to go the job. He sanded and said the existing costing was very tough and he used twice normal amount sanding discs. He recommended a clear laquer as the replacement floor covering. It transpired however he was an alcoholic and announced one day that he had ‘fallen off the wagon’ and would not be coming back! He said however that another company had agreed to come and do the laquer as a favour. We agreed given it was just before Christmas. 3 of them arrived did final sand and lacquered over a weekend. The floor however now now is very easily marked. It is covered in scratches from our Labrador walking over it and moving furniture e.g. Pull furniture out to hoover gouges floor. Would applying ronseal diamond hard over top existing solve this problem? I think existing clear also is too light, could I add an oak colour at the same time? Thanks
Hello John,
It sound like you have had a bit of a time of it with the workmen. It is fair to say that most varnished floors will mark if it has furniture moved about on it, heavy shoes, heels and large dogs are all things that can contribute to damaging varnished floors but that said adding and extra coat or two can increase the durability of the varnish.
It will also help to improve and cover over some of the minor scratches that you have but maybe not all of them. The Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish is certainly a good option if you are wanting to add some colour but it is important to do a test area first to ensure adhesion and colour result. And the key to avoiding damaging the surface is to allow a few days for the varnish to fully cure before putting the floor back into full use and avoiding scraping furniture about on the surface.
Please do let me know if you have any further questions
All the Best Sam.
Hi,
I’ve just stripped back my mantelpiece with the view of putting a clear varnish on to bring out the colour of the natural wood, however it seems shelf may have been replaced and is a different colour to the sides. Could I use Ronseal French oak interior varnish to match up the colours or would I be better staining then adding a clear top layer?
Many thanks
Hello Gary,
Colour matching and trying to get two differing woods to look the same can be difficult, but not impossible. If you would like to take some photos and send them to wood@finishes.direct and I will happily take a look for you. But realistically it may require a bit of experimenting and test areas to achieve what you are looking for.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi,
I am thinking of creating a feature wall using new pine wooden planks. I wanted to create an effect of up to three varying colours but not with too much of a contrast. The idea being that I sand and treat the planks to varying colours before attaching them to the wall battens in a random pattern. Could I use the Ronseal Diamond Hard products and water them down to different degrees to get the different shades that I would like?
Hello David,
I would recommend using the Manns Classic Pine Stain to get the differing colours/tones that you are looking for. You could potentially get one colour and then apply in different ways to get the differing tones.
For example, you can apply as many coats as you want and each layer will intensify the colour a little bit more. Or you can and water to lighten. And then when you apply a top coat product, such as Hard Wax Oil or Varnish it will darken slightly also. Please feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind regards Sam.
I’m thinking of creating my own kitchen island with a oak board as its top:
Could I make one of those look nice with varnish etc…?
Hello Mike,
Thank you for your inquiry, this is a little out of our remit as we are suppliers of finishes, however if you would like to email us at wood@finishes.direct with the photo and description of what you would like to do. And I will get one of our wood finishing experts to take a look and see if i can offer some advice.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi Sam. Thanks. That does sound like the problem as I was at the bottom of the tin. I will give it a good sand with courser paper and try again with new tin. Thanks for your help. Heather
Hi matt. I have put white gloss on my dining room table, two coats. Then I used a water based clear gloss varnish on top, but I think I put too much on and it’s got dark murky patches all over it and looks awful. I was hoping it would dry out eventually but it’s been 24 hours now and it’s the same. It’s like streaks and you can see it badly. What can I do? I didn’t know it had to be put on mega sparingly as it didn’t say that on the tin. What can I do now?
Hello Angel,
It doesn’t sound good, its disappointing when you have a finish in mind and you put the work in for it to come out wrong. If you would like to email me with details of exactly which products you used and how you prepared the table and applied the finishes and then hopefully I can send some advise your way. You can email to wood@finishes.direct and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
Kind Regards Sam.
Yes. Matt clear
Hi Heather,
Thank you, the reason I ask is because it sounded to me like a cluster of Matting agent. Generally all varnishes start as a gloss finish and a matting agent is added to then to reduce the shine to a Satin or Matt finish. This agent will sink to the bottom of the tin when left standing and requires a really good stir before application. So I believe that the problem that you have had is due to the not quite enough stirring before and during the application process,resulting in the small area of concentrated Matting agent.
Unfortunately I think the only way to solve the issue is to fully sand back and start again, its probably not what you would want to hear, if there is anything else I can help with please do let me know. You can also call and speak to one of our expert advisers.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi. I have had all my internal doors replaced with light oak doors and I am using Ronseal clear varnish on them. I have varnished about 8 so far but there are patches on the last 2 which look whitish and I can see brush strokes. I thought that maybe I had put the varnish on too thickly in places. I have tried lightly sanding them and reapplying the varnish but it still looks white in places. I have had no trouble with the other doors. Any ideas as to what I can do? I have tried heating the patches but that hasn’t helped either.
Hello Heather,
Could you tell me if this was Matt Varnish that you applied ?
Sam.
Enquiring about using a polyurethane or lacquer on a white painted wooden floor ?
Intending to paint new red deal floorboards with WB50 paint from Colortrend, General Paints. I intend to use the Primer, Primer 1 from Colortrend.
Could you advise re. A polyurethane or lacquer on the WB50 paint ?
Do you have any knowledge of WB50 as a floor paint ?
Tim.
Hello Tim,
White is a very popular colour for floor finishing, it never seem to go off trend. But it can be a real problem if not done right. I am not familiar with the WB50, but I can tell you that applying a clear varnish over a white paint can result in a yellow tinted finish. This is because although clear varnishes always come out ‘Clear’ they actually have a minute amount of pigment in them which when put on a white finish can become visible.
We have a great blog about how to get a the best white finishes that is worth looking at and I can recommend a few products to consider, such as Ronseal Diamond Floor Paint or Osmo Polyx Oil Tints is an oil-based product that will colour and protect in one. I hope that is of some help and please let me know if you have any further questions – Sam.
I am redecorating for a client – she has lovely new oak doors and she wants me to varnish the newly fitted door frames to match. They are rather higgledy piggledy assorted pine frames (that is, the architrave is made up of different lengths of pine, not matching the doorstop or each other!) and I am not sure how to fill the gaps between the lengths (I would use decorators caulk if I were going to paint them). Also the screw holes. Could you give me any advice please?
Hello Lesley,
There are a number of fillers that you could use, but you might want to start by looking at the Bona Gap Master. There are a selection of colours available that you could colour match (go slightly darker as opposed to lighter if there is not an exact match) with the wood and then varnish over with a water-based varnish. For the varnish I can recommend the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
I hope this helps and if you have any further questions do let me know – Sam.
Hi
We have an oak table that we have purchased second hand and the finish (varnish?) is a little patchy in places. What would you recommend for re-coating the table top please?
Thanks
Martin
Hello Martin,
If the table already has varnish on it then you can only really re-apply another Varnish. The Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is a good option. If you lightly sand the table and ensure that there are no damaged or flaking areas, then you can apply a coat of the Manns Varnish. You should do a test area first however to check firstly that the finish is to your liking and also that the Varnishes previous and new will adhere to each other. I hop ethat helps and if you need any more advice please let me know – Sam.
hi, I have just bought ten internal hardwood doors and I would like to use a varnish that does not darken them too much.
Could you recommend one please.
Hello Mark,
We don’t currently have a Varnish that doesn’t darken the wood slightly. However if you use a water based varnish such as Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish and mix in about 5% of the white Manns Classic Pine Stain. This could reduce the darkening. It has been done by of a few of our customers with success, but it is important to do a test area first.
Regards Sam
Hi there,
I have a new walnut stairs just fitted and wondering what’s the best finish for it to bring up the colour, grain and to protect it?? Thanks
Hello Mel,
Assuming that the stairs are as yet untreated, I can recommend trying a product, such as a hard wax oil. Fiddes Hard Wax Oil is a good option. It will protect the wood well and will not peel and flake. The Oil will enhance the grain and darken the wood slightly but leave a natural hard wearing finish. I would always recommend doing a test area first to ensure that the finish you will get is one that you like and the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil does come in sample sizes. If you have any further questions please let me know – Sam.
Greetings,
I have a ping pong table (mdf partical board) recently painted with acrylic paint. To guarantee a smooth table top surface I would like to spray a coat or two of lacquer sanding sealer (which I have on hand) over the table followed by a coat of lacquer to guarantee a smooth surface. Can I put the lacquer sanding sealer over the acrylic without any negative chemical reaction?
Thanks,
Ron
Hello Ron,
This is one of those situations where a test area is the best way to tell. Having spoken to our wood finishing expert he says that using a Lacquer directly on the paint is how he would do it, but if you would like to use the sanding sealer then a test area should be done first.
Regards Sam.
Have used Manns water based floor varnish on a wooden floor and also on a table top. Three coats on each. At the start, it seemed excellent, added no colour, was easy to apply and we were pleased with it. However, we have noticed that if you drop any oil drips on it, (such as might be spilled accidentally from an olive oil salad dressing), this penetrates into the varnish and leaves a stain. This is very disappointing.
Hello Peter,
Apologies for the delay in getting back to you, I wanted to run this one past our flooring expert, Merv. Because we do vigorous testing with all our products, particularly the Manns range as this is our own brand, we believe its possible that you have under applied the varnish. Merv has carried out test with oils from the kitchen, as well as liquids that are hot and cold. They have been left standing on the surface for at least 12 hours, and not affected the varnish.
Merv has suggested that you give the surface a light rub down and then apply another coat of the Varnish. I hope that this improves the finish for you and if you have any further problems please don’t hesitate to contact me at wood@finishes.direct
Hi Sam,
Thank you. We will give this a try and let you know.
We are in the process of refinishing our kitchen farm table. Originally it had a gloss finish without stain. We removed the gloss finish, sanded and got it down to the bare wood, then used steel wool with a little mineral spirits to remove any stripping residue. We are using a water based polyurethane to bring the table back to its original shine. After the first coat, the polyurethane seems to be separating from the wood in some areas. We lightly sanded and then applied a second coat. The polyurethane is again separating in the same areas. What did we do wrong? What can we do to correct this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hello Linda,
It is difficult to give a definitive answer without knowing what was previously on the table. However from what you have described I believe it may have been Oil based, and that some has penetrated deeply into the timber. This would cause adhesion issues with the applied varnish or lacquer. To prevent this from happening you will need to do a little more work to remove the previous product. Unfortunately, more sanding may be required. Also try a Finishing Pad and some Methylated Spirit. This should help to dissolve and remove any remaining oil in the wood.
Apply a very thin coat of water based varnish, if the wood is cleaned back correctly this will be sufficient as a primer coat and then you can apply your subsequent coats if the first coat does not show signs of separating. One other thing that could be considered is using a Sanding Sealer as a base coat and then the Polyurethane varnish on top. We also have a range of applicators and accessories for the job including lint-free, microfibre cloths, foam sponges and of course brushes that are ideal for applying water-based varnishes and sealers.
Thank you Sam, sorry didn’t respond sooner but have been away for a few days. I will show your reply to the guy who made the gates.
Cheers
Robert.
Hello.
We have had two 7ft natural oak gates made for our drive. They have been made very well. However we wanted them finished with an Osmo uv protection oil. The guy who made them insisted that he use a water based product by a firm called Melisi. He said it was a far superior product than Osmo. Four months down the line the gates are already bleaching in areas and parts of them have got black stains presumably the tannin in the oak. Also cracks are appearing in places. What I would like to know is whether I could sand them down as well as I could, I don’t think I will be able to get them down to bare wood! And then give them two coats of Osmo ? Do you think the Osmo will penetrate passed the water based coat, which is obviously breaking down? Thanks . Robert
Good morning Robert,
I am not familiar with the Melisi product that you have used but it sounds like a Varnish, this will create a seal on the surface of the wood. Some external varnishes can be very good but we tend to recommend oil over varnish for external wood because it is inevitable that after some time the varnish will begin to break down and need removing completely. The Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra can only be applied once all the previous varnish has been removed as it needs to soak into the surface of the wood.
The main benefit of using an Oil on your wood is that it is easier to maintain, so after a couple of years if the wood is starting to look like it needs a top up, you can just make sure the surface is clean and dry and then apply a coat. If you gates are particularly exposed or are south facing you may need to apply maintenance coats sooner rather then later, but there is no need to remove previous coats.
If you are unable to remove all the varnish by sanding we do have a removal product that you might want to consider Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover, but always try a test area first. I really hope that you manage to resolve your problem and if you have any further questions please let me know – Sam.
Hi there,
We properly prepped and sanded down a white painted wooden floor in our 1900s flat about 3 months ago. Once this was all sanded down and good to go we applied 4 coats of dulux interior wood white paint (waiting 8 hours between each application), but even after the suggested drying time and 3 months on the paint is still tacky, leaves dirt marks and impressions in the paint whenever you stand on it, and if any item is left on it when you pick it up it takes a chunk of paint stuck to it. Sounds like perhaps it hasn’t cured (it was quite humid and rainy outside over the few days we did this).
We looked for solutions online and also went to a nearby hardware store who advised us putting a water based polyurethane clear varnish over the top would work to seal it. They didn’t stock a water based polyurethane for floors but instead had Ronseal clear diamond hard floor varnish. My query is whether this is the right product to seal the floor? It looks like it doesn’t contain polyurethane so we aren’t sure it is the right stuff…
We are currently lightly sanding down the current white paint so we can try and apply this either today or tomorrow, so any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks!
Jenny
Hello Jenny,
This sounds like an annoying situation for you, I am not familiar with the Dulux Paint Ranges but if you are using the Floor Paint from Dulux then presumably it should be hard wearing enough in its own right. It maybe worth trying too contact Dulux directly to get some advice. The Ronseal Diamond Hard is a Polyurethene varnish that potentially could go over to top of the paint, but I do feel that if the paint itself is not cured adding a Varnish will not solve the problem and may potentially cause more. If it is not a floor paint that you have used but a standard interior paint then it may be that it is not durable enough for the floor and then the Varnish will provide the protection. If you can do a test area somewhere inconspicuous to see firstly that the paint and Varnish are compatible and secondly if the Varnish does provide the protection that you need. I hope that you manage to solve your problem – Sam.
Hi
I have engineered/veneered floor boards in my hall way and utility room, they were fitted about 10 years ago and looking a little worn. I have now sanded them down and they already look good. I need a tough hard wearing finishe and ideally keep the light colour of the natural wood – I am thinking of using to seal diamond tough varnish. Can you please advise if this product will give me the finished I would like.
thank you
Fi
Hello Fiorina,
The Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish is a good choice for your floor, but bear in mind that the Varnish will darken the wood slightly. This is why we always recommend a test area to ensure that you like the finish before completing the job.
Hi Sam
Thanks for the reply.
Even if it’s not what I had hoped for 🙁 I appreciate your honesty.
SteveN
I have a walnut & leather steering wheel on my car.
The wood appears to have faded around the top of the wheel due to sun & age. The finish coating is still sound, no chips/lifting. The top coat (lacquer?) is tinted & it is this that I think has faded.
Would it be possible to ‘top up’ this faded area with a tinted spray lacquer & a hard wearing top coat (high gloss) ?
What would you suggest?
SteveN
Hello Steve,
A difficult question this one. And may be better answered by a specialist restorer. We don’t do tinted Lacquers and I’m not sure that would be the answer to your fading problem. In this situation I would normally recommend sanding back and removing previous products and then re coating as the sanding would take the wood back to its original colour, but I feel that this project may be a little more complex than that. I’m sorry I can’t give you a more definitive answer -Sam
hello, I’m looking to protect/varnish an untreated, softwood floor. It’s the interior of a Dunster House bough garden office. It won’t have huge foot traffic but I would like to keep the wood from indentations and stains (if something’s gets spilt). What would you recommend. I would like as Matt and natural finish as possible but durable.
Many thanks
Hello Lou,
You could consider the Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish. It is available in a Matt finish, and is a durable non yellowing product. You can apply a Primer first if you want but as you are applying to bare wood it is not essential, 3 coats of the Varnish would be sufficient. We would love to see some before and after images – Sam
I’ve put two coats of Ronseal wax on oak faced ply boards on the interior of our narrowboat. It doesn’t appear to have done anything to it and certainly doesn’t feel waxed. I’m wondering if it’ll protect it or if I need to add another coat? Additionally if I wanted to varnish it, would I have to remove the wax and if so, how?
Hello Sue,
Is it the Ronseal Interior Wax that you have used. This is not a product that we sell as yet, but having looked at the details in our Ronseal Information pack I can see that this product is a durable and protective Wax that works like a Varnish against knocks and scratches. So 2 coats of this should offer a good durable protective finish.
If you wanted to remove it then you would need to use the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover, which works by softening the paint so that you can scrape it off. Alternatively, you can use the PeelAway 7 Paint Remover, which you leave on for 24-48 hours and then peel away the poultice and the paint at the same time.
Hi,
We have finished our parquet floor restoration including replacing some areas of the floor with reclaimed parquet. After sanding and varnishing by a specialist company the floor looks very patchy with much darker colour on the reclaimed parquet. Our contractor seems to be unable to advice us or solve the problem.
Would you tell if it is possible to even the colour of the floor now at all and what would be the process involved? Thank you
Hello Olivia,
It is likely that the wood used to restore the floor is a different variety from the original, however even if it is the same type of wood, colour variation is common. There are many factors that cause variants in colour from one piece of wood to another and you will also find that different woods will take stains and colours in a different way also. All these factors and more mean that colour matching in the wood industry can be difficult and require lots of experimenting in order to get where you want to be. There is no easy answer to your question, but I don’t think that more sanding will help.
Generally speaking the darker you go with the colour the more you will hide the difference, but it will not camouflage it completely. The Manns Classic Pine Stain has a wide range of colours and can be inter mixed or lightened by adding water. They are also easy to remove when you do your test areas, by just scrubbing with off with water. You may be able to use two different colours on the floor to try to bring a more even overall colour, but this would require some experimentation. You would also need to remove any existing finish, like the varnish before you can apply this colour stain. And then once you have achieved the colour you want a top coat product, Varnish or Hard wax Oil, would be needed and its worth noting that the top coat will darken the finish over all. I hope you manage to get the finish you want and if you have any more question please ask – Sam
Hi,
I’m an artist who paints in acrylics on wooden objects (small boxes etc) and usually seal them with a water-based interior varnish.
I would like to try making some coasters; will the varnished surface be able to withstand the heat e.g. from a cup of coffee?
What about if I made something to place a hot casserole dish on, straight from the oven? Would the varnish ‘melt’?
(Even if it doesn’t. I wonder if the acrylic paints beneath would be affected…)
Hello Kes,
Our Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is a hard wearing and durable product that will take a reasonable amount of heat. We have experimented in house by putting Hot mugs on a Varnished surface with good results. It is fair to say however that equipment straight out of the oven will damage the varnish and I would anticipate possibly the paint underneath too. It is also necessary to ensure the correct application of the product and allow it to cure completely before putting into use, as using it before it is ready could result in damaged being caused. Hope this helps – Sam
I have painted some tea trays with chalk paint and would like a finish on them (matt if possible) to protect and waterproof them. The trays were originally lightly varnished when I bought them but I sanded them down as I found I had tiny bubbles coming up on my second coat of paint and this seemed to rectify that problem. I tried a cheap supermarket water based varnish but this sort of caused the paint to split. Should I have primed my wood first?
Hello Kathryn,
It is not advisable to use varnish over the Chalk paint, we have had many people call in with disaster stories that have occurred when putting Varnish over a chalk paint. The only product that is suitable to got on to would be a Wax such as Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish. We have a Blog on How To Seal Chalk Paint which would be worth a read if you have time. I hope this helps – Sam
Hi, I have just finished having all new door frames, architrave, skirting boards, doors and bannistairs all fitted in untreated pine. I would really like to keep the colour as close to what it looks like now as possible Ive been told to use a clear water based varnish with a high UV resistance to help limit future discoluration. Could you advise if A:this is correct? and B:which product would be best to use?
Many thanks.
Hi Neal,
A water-based interior varnish would be suitable, to use although Interiors products tend not to have UV protection in them, and it is also worth noting that a clear Varnish will darken the wood slightly. To get an idea of how much you can wipe a damp cloth across the surface of the bare wood.
For a treatment that will leave the wood as Natural as possible it is worth considering Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural this is an Oil that will soak into the surface of the wood and leave it as unchanged and Natural as possible. Test areas are always recommended.
Hi, I have stripped and sanded my wooden stairs but unluckily where the paint was (1/4 on either side, aprox) the wood looks “lighter” than in the “unprotected” half bit. I am not sure if varnishing over will help or actually make it worse. what would you recommend?
Hello Gabriel,
It is likely that you will still see the difference in the lighter and darker areas when a Varnish is applied. It may be possible to stain the lighter wood using some of the Manns Pine Wood Stain and there is also an Oak range. It may require a little bit of experimentation to get a good match but the water based stains are easy to mix or lighten with water if needed, and also easy to remove by scrubbing off, if it is not the right colour. Once you have achieved the colour you would like, you can then apply your finishing coat of varnish.
Hi I’ve replaced all of my internal doors with new 6 panel pine doors. After varnishing the doors with a satin polyurethane varnish I notice that the overall colour of the doors have a much lighter colour than my existing torus skirting boards and architraves which I varnished with the same product. The colour is almost like the original pine colour prior to varnishing.
What type of varnish would you recommend for any future pine skirting boards and architraving to maintain a similar colour to how my new doors appear?
Hello Peter,
Thank you for your inquiry, it is very difficult to lighten a wood in order to match it to another, and much easier to bring the lighter wood up to the darker colour. However as you have Varnished the Doors it will be difficult to match the two different colours. The main options are to sand back the varnished areas and start again using a Stain to match the colour before Varnishing, which I understand is a less than desirable option. Or you could have a look at the Ronseal Diamond Hard Coloured Floor Varnish to see if there is a colour in there that would suit your needs, as this may be suitable to go over your existing varnish. Always do a test area first.
Hi We have varnished newly sanded pine floor boards in medium oak and the floor looks slightly red shall we add antique pine (a yellowy colour) to turn to brown
Hello Beverley,
Achieving the right colour can be difficult and require a little bit of experimentation but it is fair to say that the Antique Pine or the Driftwood Stain from the Manns Classic Pine Stain may be the ones to try. They are both quite greenish in tone and so in theory the green and orange together should equal brown. Test areas on the actual wood that you are treating will be the only way to get a true indication of the colour that you will achieve, and its worth bearing in mind that any finishing product put on top will darken the finish. You can also add water to the water-based Stain to lighten the colour if you need to. Hope this helps and that you are able to achieve the colour that you are looking for.
Hi, I make acrylic paintings on raw wood panels (birch and maple), leaving a lot of the wood grain showing. Some of my paintings are bought by museum benefactors, and so I would like to use the most durable, archival, quality varnish available to preserve the paintings and the wood. I’m leaning toward an oil based varnish, but afraid that might damage the acrylic painting. Any thoughts/suggestions would be grately appreciated. Thank you!
Hello,
Thank you for your inquiry, this is something that we have not had any direct experience with, but I believe that you would be okay with either oil or water-based varnish. The oil-based is likely to yellow sooner than the water-based although we do believe that both will yellow over time especially if subjected to direct sunlight. I also believe that a glossy finish is less likely to yellow in comparison to a matt finish. As this is untested territory for us, I would strongly recommend test areas left over time to see how the products performs. We don’t currently stock an oil-based varnishes but do have water-based such as Polyvine Decorators Varnish that you could try. I hope this helps and remember always do a test area first.
I am thinking of using clear ronseal perftect finish interor satin varnish on my oak vaneer internal cottage doors from b&q. Can you advice if this is suitable or can i use danish oil. I do not wish to change the colour or the look of the door. Thank you
Hi Jacqui,
Are the doors currently bare wood i.e nothing on them at the moment? It’s also worth reading through the information label that should have come with the doors as some manufacturers are very specific about which types of products can and can’t be used, especially on veneered doors.
Any clear varnish or oil will darken the wood giving it an almost damp like appearance; it will also draw out the natural grain and colour of the timber. You can get a good idea of what the doors will look like by wiping a small section of the wood with a slightly damp cloth or sponge, the door will return back to its natural colour once the damp area has fully dried.
Using an oil in place of a varnish is a good option as it’s easier to maintain and repair if it becomes, marked, scuffed or slightly scratched. Danish oil is made from a blend of various oils and tends to add a fair amount of colour to wood. If you’re looking to keep the doors as natural as possible, consider Osmo Polyx Oil Raw 3044 or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural. Both of these products will offer a good level of protection while retaining an appearance similar to the unfinished timber.
Always follow the door manufacturer’s guidelines and any instructions on the product tin. Always do a small test area to make sure you are happy with the results before starting the main project.