Wood oils penetrate into the surface fibres of the wood, where they oxidise with the air and harden. The result is a finish that is dry and non-greasy so will not stain or mark clothing or soft furnishings. If a wood oil does remain sticky or greasy, it has been over applied.
Wood oils help to protect and preserve interior and exterior wood by feeding the timber to to keep it nourished and supple. They are the easiest of all wood finishes to maintain and repair. A patch repair, for example, where a scuff, scratch, stain or areas of wear has occurred can be easily fixed by simply sanding the affected area and applying more wood oil.
In general, most interior wood oils are safe for use on wooden surfaces that are close or come in to direct contact with food. Danish Oils are a good example of an oil that can be used on kitchen worktops, chopping boards and wooden food or fruit bowls. Worktop Oils are a range of wood oils that are specifically formulated to be used on food preparation surfaces. These products offer increased durability whilst enhancing the natural beauty and character of the wood.
We wouldn't recommend using a wood oil that is specifically formulated for exterior use on interior wood. This is because many exterior wood oils contain additional additives such as fungicides, insecticides and biocides to combat mould, algae, insect attack and wood rot, making them unsuitable for use on interior surfaces.
While both products provide a clear, satin finish with very low V.O.C content and are made from a unique combination of natural oils and waxes, the main difference between the Osmo UV Protection Oil (410) and Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra (420) is that the 420 contains fungicides and biocides to protect against mould, algae and fungal growth. For this reason, the 410, which doesn’t contain fungicides and biocides, can be used on interior and exterior wood surfaces whereas the 420 is just for exterior use.
Yes, over-application of wood oil can be easily remedied by dampening a clean, lint free cloth in white spirit and wiping off the excess oil. Take care not to use too much white spirit and wipe in the direction of the wood grain. This will break down and remove the surplus oil from the surface of the wood.
Metal tins and cans can stain oiled finishes if the bottom of the tin has been or is sitting in water. The oxidisation of the metal can stain the finish or the wood if left long enough. The benefit of an oiled finish is that they are very easy to repair and when done will blend in with the surrounding area with no sign of a repair being done. Depending on how bad the stain is, it may be possible to remove it by lightly sanding with an abrasive pad such as a Woodleys Finishing Pad and then re-oiling the affected area. If the stain runs deeper into the actual wood, sand the area with a p120 grit sandpaper sheet until the stain has been sanded out and then re-oil the affected area.
It is always best to stick with the recommended number of coats. If additional coats of oil are applied or if it is applied too thickly, the surplus oil will remain on the surface of the wood. This could result in a number of problems including a sticky, tacky finish; a finish that could take days or longer to fully dry; or a finish that is easily scratched, scuffed and marked. In the worst cases, the surplus surface oil may just scrape or peel off.