Which is the Best Oil For Wooden Worktops?


Kitchen worktops come in a huge variety of materials and styles, from man made laminate and composite materials to natural materials such as stone, granite, quartz and wood. All of which give a very specific look and feel and while some worktops can be relatively cheap, others can cost thousands.

One of the more popular kitchen worktop materials, both traditionally and today, is wood. In terms of durability, wood is up there with the best but unlike, stone, slate and granite worktops, it’s less likely to get chipped, lose a corner or suffer from a jagged or damaged edge. Even if it does, repair is usually quicker, easier and cheaper.

When it comes to wooden kitchen worktops, there’s a wide range of woods to choose from with the more common being Oak and Beech, other woods such as Walnut, Iroko and Bamboo are also available as are other more exotic and rare wood types but these usually come at a higher cost.

Wooden Kitchen Worktop Care

Although wood is a great material for kitchen worktops, it does require some care to keep it looking great and functioning well. Wood oils have been used for centuries to protect and preserve wood and although the same is true today, new types and blends of oils are more commonly used.

The pros and cons of wooden kitchen worktops?

By its nature, wood is porous meaning that if left untreated, liquids, juices and bacteria from meats and other sources can seep into the surface grain, discolouring and staining the wood. More importantly, the unsealed wood can create the perfect environment for germs and bacteria to collect and breed.

A common issue with poorly maintained kitchen worktops is black mould around taps and sinks. This is usually caused by water damage and mould spores growing in the surface of the timber, encouraged by warm, damp conditions. Although this sounds serious, as long as the work top hasn’t been varnished, it can usually be remedied by scrubbing the black areas with a mould and mildew cleaner. This will remove the black staining and kill off the bacteria and spores responsible. In severe cases, a second treatment may be required. Once the wood has been successfully treated and cleaned it’s ready for oiling.

The great news is that wooden worktops can look fabulous and even if they’ve been neglected and abused, left with stains, marks, discolourations and stains, it’s usually a fairly easy process to get them looking amazing again with little more than a light sanding, some white spirit and the all important worktop oil.

Why Does Oiling Wooden Worktops Work?

Simply speaking, oiling wooden worktops works by filling the surface grain of the timber with natural oils and waxes, that dry and harden in the surface fibres of the timber. This acts as an effective wood preserver and sealer, helping to prevent moisture and bacteria from entering the wood grain.

Wooden Worktop Oil – Old v New

A question that we’re often asked is “Which is the best oil for wooden worktops?” Wood oils such as Tung, Linseed and Danish Oils have always been used to protect and preserve work surfaces and other types of timber, and are still commonly used today. So why use a modern worktop oil? Which is best? We hear you ask. The difference between traditional wood oils and the newer ranges of wooden worktop oil products comes down to several key differences.

Ease of use – Application and drying times

The number of coats can depend on the type and condition of the wood, many of the traditional oils may require anything from 3 to 7 coats to be effective and with drying times of around 24 hours between coats, oiling a wooden work top could take as long as a week. In comparison, most modern top oils require just 2 thin coats and are dry in 4 to 8 hours, depending on the oil brand and environmental conditions.

Worktop durability

In terms of durability, traditional wood oils tend to require maintenance on a more regular basis as they dissipate in the wood and evaporate from the surface of the worktop more quickly than their modern equivalents. Modern purpose made worktop oils are made from specially formulated blends of waxes and oils, that harden in the surface of the wood, to form a durable, protective barrier.

Oil penetration in the worktop surface

Modern kitchen worktop oils are highly refined and are blended with solvents to thin and aid penetration into the surface of the wooden work top. In many cases, especially on denser woods, traditional wood oils will not penetrate in to the wood as well unless they are first thinned with turps.

It’s true to say however that even with modern top oils some are better suited to specific wood types than others depending on how dense the wood is and how thin the worktop oil is. Some products such as Manns Premier Top Oil and Osmo Extra Thin 1101 are especially great for denser timbers such as Beech, Bamboo and Walnut worktops. While Holzol Worktop Oil is a great all rounder.

The great thing with an oiled wooden worktop is that they look great, are easy to maintain and repair even if they do become stained, scratched or worn looking. For more on the subject, we’ve created a great video that shows how easy it is to apply a solid wood worktop oil.

An additional bonus of top oil products is that because they are completely food and child safe when dry, they’re perfect for rejuvenating and restoring wooden chopping boards and other wooden kitchen utensils.

Top Tip

Applying a top oil to a kitchen worktop will enhance the natural colour, grain and character of the timber. If you’re installing a new or renovating an old worktop by sanding, wipe over a small section with a slightly damp (not wet) cloth or sponge to get a good indication of how the worktop will look when oiled. See our full range of wooden worktop oils here.

Need help with your wood oil project?

For more information about wood oils and their uses, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations. Alternatively, see our wood oils FAQ page which covers many of the most commonly asked questions about wood oils.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great blogs that talk about wood oils

  • What are Wood Oils and Where Are They Best Used?
  • Traditional Wood Oils: 3 of the Best

    1. Hi Sam

      This is all really useful advice – thank you!

      We have year old walnut worktops in our kitchen, which I have finished with Rustin’s Danish Oil.

      Tbh, it’s not providing much of a barrier, and even with conscientious and almost constant drying, water spots are getting through.

      Is there a better or more appropriate finish I should be using? I’ve seen the Osmo wood wax (1101) and Fiddes hard wood wax recommended variously.
      Would these be suitable?
      Also, would I need to take back the current finish to bare wood and start again to apply them?


      • Hi Matt,

        As Walnut is a very dense, naturally oily wood it requires a thinner oil so that it can penetrate and protect. The Osmoo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin is perfect for Walnut but the previous finish will need to be completely removed.
        Hope that helps!

        • Great. Thanks so much for your response

          Is that definitely a better option than Danish Oil as it’ll be quite an undertaking for me to remove it all!

          It Worktop Express (from whom I bought the worktops) who advised the Danish Oil

          Thanks again

          • Hi Matt,

            The Osmo products do tend to be a lot more durable than traditional Danish Oils and take less maintenance.
            Hope that helps you make an informed decision !!

    2. Hi, I am a little lost on how to treat my iroko wood countertops. I was told by the company who sold me my worktops to use the OSMO top oil for countertops but then when doing more research I have found that this isn’t suitable for iroko. I am looking to treat my countertops and keep them as water-repellant / stain-free as possible as the kitchen is pretty much in constant use (we cook a lot) and the worktops are around a large sink area and have a hob set into them where oils and tomato sauce and all those special stainy things are spluttering. Reading around this (very helpful!) website I think I should be using the “Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin” but I wondered whether to make sure that the wood is waterproof enough I should be taking other measures such as using the “Osmo wood protector” as a first coat and then two additional coats of the Wood Wax Extra Thin or/and applying methylated spirits before starting with any products… or something else!
      I also was wondering what grit I should be sanding to? On the Osmo website is says anywhere from 120-240 but I can’t figure out what i should sand down to for countertops, and for Iroko. If you have any advice that would be incredibly helpful thank you!

      • Hi Olivia,

        You are absolutely right. The Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin is the correct product for your project (Iroko) and I would also recommend 1 coat of the Osmo Wood Protector prior to applying the oil.
        Hope this helps.

    3. Hello,
      This blog has been really helpful.

      I have bought a house with solid wood worktop. Its currently very patchy and sticky, along with stains by the sink. Theres also areas where i dropped my vinegar and bicarb mixture which removed the wax/oil, but has left a lovely lighter colour.
      I am planning to sand it down to bare wood. I am hoping to keep the pale colour, how can i acheive this, i really dislike the orange. Would i need to use the antibacterial oil first, then the other oils on top, and then top oil. Just a little confused with the order or things. Thank you in advance !

      • Hello Mez,

        Its great to hear that the Blog has helped! To get the best result for your worktop, its vital to ensure good and even sanding, finishing on a 150 to 180 grit sandpaper. Once you have the wood well prepared I would definitely recommend a test area first. A product such as the Osmo Top Oil in the Natural 3068. This is designed to maintain that light natural appearance of the wood. Two thin coats will give good protection to a lighter coloured wood and when cleaned with suitable products can last for a number of years before requiring a top up. And that test area will give an indication of how the oil will look on your wood.

        If the wood is naturally a darker tone then the Natural 3068 is not ideal, a milky effect could occur, instead you could look at the Clear Satin or Matt options. These will darken the wood slightly and highlight the grain, and you have the advantage of being able to use the Osmo Wood Protector underneath, around the sink area to give an even better level of protection against moisture ingress.

        The orange tones that sometimes come from the application of an oil, are usually the result of the wood type, because oils become part of the wood, it can highlight the natural tones, in some cases orange or red. If a clear option results in the finish being too orange then perhaps you could consider a coloured alternative either from the Top Oil range or from the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints

        The great thing about the Osmo products is that they are nearly all available in Sample sizes for test areas. For more help and advice why not get in touch with our friendly team via our contact us page.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    4. Hi

      I am in South Africa and have teak kitchen worktops that were covered with furniture wax. We have stripped that down and now have bare wood. I have managed to find some Woca Worktop Oil (I haven’t seen Osmo products here). The instructions say to also coat the underside of the wood but the worktops are fixed in place and I can’t get to the underside of the wood. I read somewhere that if you don’t coat the underside, the wood bows. Is this correct? The underside has never been treated so is also raw.

      I would appreciate your advice.


      • Hello Claire,

        It is fair to say that application to all areas of the wood, whatever the project, is always better. However the worktop will be fine if you are unable to apply to the underside.

        More often than not worktops are fitted before application, workmen are often in a hurry to get things done before you are able to get that treatment applied. Or it could be that you have inherited a worktop when moving to a new house. What ever the reason it is not the end of the world if you are not able to cover all areas. I myself have a solid wood worktop and have only treated the top and sides and so far have had no warping after 3 years.

        It does not mean that it will not happen and any areas that are exposed to high humidity, moisture or changing temperatures could be susceptible, and the weather is very different in South Africa compared to the UK, so you may have to factor that in, however most homes are warm and dry and do not have an environment that changes too dramatically through the year.

        I hope that helps and please do let us know if you have any further questions.

        Kind Regards Samantha.

    5. Hi,
      We’ve just moved into a house that has oak worktops that look oiled, but have some areas that are clearly more worn than others. If we denib the surfaces, could we just oil the worktops instead of sanding them down?
      Either way, how do we choose an oil to use if we don’t know what’s on there already?

      • Good Morning Ami,

        Its always difficult when you move house and adopt someone else’s projects. I always think home owners should leave a little list of helpful tips, such as previous products used and how to deal with temperamental heating systems or taps, or what the creaking is at night.

        In general oils can be patch repaired or over coated with a very similar product with out issue, however because you do not know what the current oil is this may cause issues. Many people still use soft oils such as Danish oil for kitchen work tops, whilst other are using Hard Wax Oils and the two are not really compatible.

        My best advice would have to be to sand back to bare wood, this would ensure you the best and most even result for sure and if you need any help or advice on how to do this our team of advisers are on hand to help with this, just call in or email via our contact us page. And we may also be able to point you in the direction of some oils to consider if you decide not to sand back to bare wood.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    6. Hi I be just bought solid maple worktops for my kitchen. I want to keep them as natural as possible with a Matt finish. Could you recommend the best oil/product to use , thank you Rebecca

      • Hello Rebecca,

        Thank you for getting in touch with your question. You could take a look at the Osmo Top Oil Natural 3068 this is a penetrating oil that is designed to leave the wood looking as untreated as possible, whilst still giving great protection.

        You will need to apply very very thinly on Maple and I would recommend a test areas first to ensure the oil is able to absorb well into the wood. Maple is a slightly more difficult wood to work with than some and so the test area is important.

        If you do find there are any issues with the the oil absorbing then I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Extra Thin as an alternative, better suited to hard woods it will darken the wood slightly, but will offer great protection.

        Sample sachets are available for test areas and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.

        Kind Regards Samantha

    7. I currently have solid oaks wooden worktops which have become worn and have a few marks on them. After sanding them down, what are the best products to use? They are a dark walnut colour which I’d like to keep so would I have to apply a dye – if so which is best?

      Also would a top coat be required?

      Any info would be greatly appreciated!

      • Good Afternoon Lucy,

        Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. If you have taken the worktops back to bare wood and want to achieve a walnut finish, I would recommend the Fiddes Hard wax Oil Tints as a really good option. I actually have this on my own worktops and have had no issues for 3 years now. And on oak it gives a lovely warm walnut finish.

        Two very thin coats applied to the well prepared bare wood is all that is needed and I would also recommend the Osmo Wood Protector for sink areas as this gives an extra level of defence against moisture ingress. This should be applied before the oil. And always try test areas first to ensure you like the result achieved.

        All the Best Samantha.

    8. Hi, we have Ikea oak wortops and they are forever getting dark water marks on them, even if you leave a food can that is wet on there for a few seconds it leaves a mark. I want to strip them back and oil them but I want something that is going to be durable and I am not going to have to sand back and re-treat if I get another water mark. What is the toughest wearing worktop solution that you know of?

      • Good Afternoon Matthew.

        Is your oak worktop solid oak or veneered? Is it bare wood or does it have an existing finish? From what you are saying it sounds like it is bare wood or that the original finish has worn off.

        If your worktop is solid oak, sand the surface of your worktop with a 120 grit sandpaper to remove all surface marks and stains. Take care to remove all traces of sanding dust with a vacuum cleaner or slightly damp, lint-free rag or microfibre cloth. Once fully dry, the worktop can be treated with a worktop oil. A standard, clear worktop oil will darken the wood and enhance its natural colour, character and grain. The appearance will look similar to how the wood looks when slightly dampened.

        If you wish to keep the lighter, untreated look of the wood or how it looks when freshly sanded, use either Osmo Top Oil (3068 Natural) or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural. These products have been specifically designed to better retain the natural, untreated look of lighter coloured timbers such as oak and pine.

        When applying these products, all that is required is 2 thin coats. Apply the first coat working the oil into the surface of the wood with a clean, white (uncoloured) lint free cloth or microfibre cloth. Remove any excess oil from the surface of the wood. Once fully dry, apply the second coat again removing any excess oil from the surface of the wood.

        Worktop oils and Hardwax oils are durable, easy to apply, maintain and repair. when the surface starts to look tired or worn, simply clean and apply a thin maintenance coat of oil to the surface to restore its appearance and moisture repellent properties.

        Oiled surfaces should never be cleaned with household detergents or cleaners such as washing-up liquids as these are designed to break down and dissolve grease and oils. Always use a dedicated wood surface cleaner.

        Good luck with your project.

        Kind regards,

    9. Hi, I’m about install oak worktops with routed groves toward the sink to act as a draining area. Would it be wise to use the Osmo wood protector and then a top oil or would the Osmo top oil be sufficient? I don’t expect water to be stood on the surface for long periods.

      • Good Afternoon James,

        My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I would absolutely recommend you apply the Osmo Wood Protector first as this will give a greater level of protection from moisture ingress in these areas. And then follow with two thin coats of the Top Oil.

        This combination will give a long lasting and durable finish for your wooden worktops. For further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch with one of our friendly team via our contact us page.

        kind regards Samantha.

    10. I have an old school science worktop – not sure what is it, but reading around its probably iroko – that I’m going to use as a utility room worktop. Its not going to be used for food prep and needs to be hard wearing so is a varnish going to be better than oil? The is a sink so there will be water splashed about.
      Can you recommend any particular product? We would like to keep the wood as light as possible.

      I’ve already sanded it back to bare wood down to a 240 grit sandpaper so any other tips on preparation would be gratefully received also.

      Many thanks

      • Good Afternoon Matt,

        It sounds like an interesting project, my concern would be that if it has been used as a science lab table that a wide range of chemicals and substances may have been absorbed into the wood over the years. Test areas will be vital with whatever product you decide to use.

        There are a couple of options that you are able to consider and the first, that you have mentioned, is a varnish, Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish this is a surface sealer with a long lasting durability. It has anti bacterial properties that make it perfect for kitchen surfaces.
        The only down side to a varnish is that should the seal break down at any point and allow moisture under it will peel and flake fairly quickly and can be difficult to repair.

        The alternative is and oiled finish, this has the benefit of being a penetrating finish that will not peel and flake over time, it is not as long lasting as a varnish, however is easier to maintain and repair. Used with the Osmo Wood Protector in sink area this will give a well protected moisture repellent finish. This requires application to bare wood that has been sanded to a 120 – 150 grit and so to use this you may need to re sand and open up the grain a little and for Iroko I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin designed for use on hardwoods such as Iroko.

        The oil will highlight more so than the varnish any imperfections that may be in the wood due to its history. I hope this helps some and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    11. Hi,

      I have a large quantity of Osmo Polyx oil left over. Is it OK to use it on wooden kitchen worktops instead of buying a new tin of Top Oil?

      Many thanks.

      • Good Afternoon Jeremy,

        The Polyx Oil will be fine to use on your work tops as long as the wood is ready to accept further coats. Test areas will help to determine this. Osmo Polyx Oil is food safe once dry and will give as good a protective finish to your work top as the Osmo Top Oil will.

        I hope that helps but please do not hesitate to get back to me if you have any further questions.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    12. Hey. I’ve just had a new kitchen put in with solid oak worktops. I love the natural light colour of them now and am looking for something to protect them with that won’t make them dark or turn them yellow. Can you advise which of your products I should try please? Thank you.

      • Good Afternoon Elaine,

        Thank you for coming to Wood Finishes Direct with your question. I can recommend the Osmo Top Oil Natural 3068. This protective oil contains a minute amount of white pigments to counteract the darkening you would usually get with a clear oil. It should leave the wood looking as untreated as possible, whilst still offering a moisture repellent and durable finish.

        Unfortunately sample sizes are not available in the product range but a very close product you could try if you wanted is the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw this has a 5ml sample sachet for a test area and I always recommend a test area first as the wood that you are applying to will impact on the colour and finish that will be achieved. if you take a look at this product and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions at all.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    13. I have recently brought a Rimforsa kitchen island from IKEA which has a wooden worktop, which I have since found out is bamboo. What are the best products to seal this natural wood and for food preparation.
      Many thanks

      • Good Afternoon John,

        If the worktop does not currently have a finish applied then I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is an interior wood oil that is ideal for tight grained wood or woods that are naturally high in oil content. Bamboo is a naturally dense wood that will accept an oil but will have a low uptake, two very thin coats are all that is required and I would recommend a test area first to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved.

        If you need any further advice we have a great team on hand to answer any questions on 01303 213 838 or via our contact us page.

        All the best Samantha.

    14. Hi,

      We have solid oak kitcheb bench, it has become water damaged around sink area, i managed to sand out the dark marks, but then as soon as i apply the danish oil it clings to the previous parts that were water damaged and looks even worse?

      Is there any reason this would happen or what can i use?

      • Good Afternoon Cara,

        Water stains can penetrate quite deep and you may need to do further sanding to restore the wood. There are a lots of suggestions when you google this subject that include , scrubbing with toothpaste, Salt paste or vasoline left on over night, whether any of these work I couldn’t tell you and how deep you ,may have to sand is again one that I could not predict. But once you have been able to remove the stain I would strongly recommend a product such as the Osmo Wood Protector to be apply to the bare wood first, this is very moisture repellent protective finish specifically for areas that are exposed to moisture ingress.

        And then follow this with a more durable oil than the Danish such as the Osmo Polyx Oil or the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil

        I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.

        Kind regards Samantha

    15. Hi,

      I’m just about to start sanding down some Iroko kitchen worktops and need some advice on re-oiling – there are so many products to choose from. The worktops are in very good condition with no water damage etc. The previous finish (stained and oiled) was very robust but I don’t know what oil was used. I’m sanding the worktops to get rid of the dark brown-red colour.

      Thanks !

      • Hello Kate,

        Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Iroko’s natural colouring is red based and so any product you apply to it for protection is likely to enhance and bring out the red tones. Once sanded back to bare wood, if you wipe with a damp, not wet, cloth the darkening you get from doing this will show you what any clear product will achieve.

        Iroko is a very hardwearing tropical hard wood and when sanded you will bring the natural oils to the surface of the wood. I would recommend wiping over the surface with some Methylated Spirits first this will aid absorption of oil treatments and due to the type of wood you are treating there is only one that I would recommend, Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin the thinner oil will penetrate the surface of the wood better.

        If you have a read up of that product and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have. Always try a test area first.

        Kind Regards Samantha.

    16. Having looked at lots of useful information on your website I am thinking of using Manns Premier Top Oil or Osmo Extra Thin 1101 to renovate my beech worktops.
      I will probably apply the oil by brush – will I be able to clean the brushes in water or is white spirit required?

      • Good Morning David,

        The two oils you are looking at are great options for a Beech Worktop. They will require application to bare well prepared wood and as always I recommend a test area to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. Brush application is ideal and you can remove any excess with a lint free cloth.

        Then Brushes will require cleaning with some White Spirits first to remove all of the oil and then a good rinse in some warm soapy water.

        I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    17. Hi guys,
      we’ve just bought a oak worktop from B&Q for our kitchen, watched your videos. I think the Holzol worktop oil is the one for us. But slightly torn in thinking of using one of the Osmo oils – HELP!!! complete indecision

      • Good Afternoon Mark,

        I know right!! Making a decision on which product to use can be difficult. And the two top oils that you are considering are both very good. When there are so many products to choose from how do you know which one is right?

        Well both are available in sample sizes and so this should be your starting point. I know it makes the process a little longer but in the long run testing those products will help to get the desired finish.

        To be fair they are very similar in look and finish, I would expect the Osmo to have the slight edge on coverage but the Holzol is quicker drying. Essentially they both require two thin coats for application.

        I can’t make the decision for you unfortunately, what I can tell you is that the Osmo is the most popular brand and the reviews for each product are worth a read to get other customers point of views.

        If you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

        Kind Regards Samantha.

    18. Hello,

      We have moved into a property that had solid dark looking walnut worktops. I have spent the weekend sanding these down quite significantly and the result is a lot lighter and we like this lighter more natural look, but what is our next step. I have sanded with a 40 grain so presume I now need to do a much finer round but what do we oil with after that will keep this new look that we like? Really would appreciate any advice

      • Good Afternoon Steve,

        Thank you for your question, yes, is the answer sanding to a finer grit. So depending on how much time you would like to spend on it and how smooth your would like the surface to be, you could sand with a 80 grit next and then finish with a 120- 150 grit. Or going straight to the 120 grit will be fine, this will still give a smooth even finish ready for application of a Hard Wax Oil to protect the wood.

        To keep the wood looking and feeling natural but still offer the protection required for a kitchen worktop I would recommend Holzol Worktop Oil this particular oil is a little thinner than some of the others and will work better with a hardwoods such as Walnut and Oak. Two thin coats are all that is required and we do have some very helpful videos on our You Tube Channel >>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKbVn4k_djI&t=1s about preparation and application methods.

        Take a look and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    19. Hi.

      W9ndering which oil is best for iroko which I am having installed in a couple of weeks. Been reading that danish oil is bad for your health with high voc’s and lots of “fillers” and would prefer a more natural choice

      • Hello Simon,

        Can you tell me a little more about your project, is it interior or exterior? Decking, flooring, furniture or something else. And i may be able to narrow down some options for you. If you would like to email me direct you can do his through our contact us page.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    20. we have ‘inherited’ a tired and neglected oak floor in a kitchen- diner, which needs re-sanding and treating.
      it was previously lacquered and that has worn right through in places, which makes me tend towards choosing an oil finish, despite the fact that it takes longer to dry.
      can you advise in a few words the downsides and advantages of lacquer and oil finishing.

      • Good Afternoon Ellen,

        Both have the Pros and Cons for sure. If we start with a varnish, this is a surface sealer that is certainly more durable, longer lasting and hard wearing. It sits on the surface of the wood and can be compared to a plastic like finish, however many of the modern varnishes now also give a more natural look and come in a range of sheens. The downside to varnish is that it is harder to repair or change down the line, scratches are difficult to hide or repair. It can be easier to apply and has a quicker drying time.

        Oils although still very durable and hard wearing will not last as long as a varnish, they have a far more natural look and feel and many people prefer this and only require two very thin coats applied, so a little goes a long way. The benefit of having an oil is that it is far easier to maintain and repair over time. So if a scratch or accident marks the oil the you can lightly sand the effected area and re oil, it will blend well and nearly always look as good as new. When it starts to fade you can simply clean the floor and reapply the oil with out the new to strip.

        My advice would be to sand back the floor and if you are unsure of which route you want to take, both varnishes and oils are available in sample sizes on our website and it is important to try the products on your wood as the type, age and condition of the wood will all impact on the finish that will be achieved.

        Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish
        Fiddes Hard Wax Oil

        I hope that helps and if you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact page.

        All the Best Samantha.

    21. We have a lovely maple kitchen that was installed in 1984 and still looks good overall. The work surfaces have been oiled occasionally but not recently and are beginning to look a bit grubby in places. We used a Ronseal worktop oil last time. What would you recommend we use this time and what steps should I take to prepare before application? Do I need to sand down the surfaces – there are a few water stains near the sink but the rest is just slightly grimy mixed with old oil I think? I understand oil sealants are much improved recently. What is the best one for maple? You advice will be much appreciated.
      Kind regards

      • Hello David,

        Thank you for your questions. For the best result you can remove all the existing finish by sanding, removing all the previous oil and wiping down with White Spirit once clean and dry the wood is ready for fresh treatment and to start with I would recommend the Osmo Wood Protector this is particularly good for areas exposed to a fair amount of moisture and temperature changes. It will help prevent damage to the wood.

        You can then follow this with a top coat of Osmo Top Oil which will make the moisture and stain repellent and is a very durable and hard wearing finish. I do strongly recommend test areas with both products as they can and will darken the wood very slightly and you will need to ensure you like the finish to be achieved.

        If you take a look and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.

        Kind Regards Samantha.

    22. Hi Samantha,

      We are buying walnut worktops. I’ve had a wide range of advice on how to look after them from oiling them every day for the first two weeks (underneath/ ends and top before fitting them) through to oiling them once and then every six months after. I’ve also had Woca oil recommended as a good option for walnut.

      It would be great if you could let me know:
      – for the first ever application – how many coats should I put on and should I cover the whole worktop (top, bottom and sides/ends) before we fit it?
      – to create a matt / satin finish with as much protection as possible which oil would you recommend? I’ve seen Osmo wood wax finish extra thin 1101, Manns premier top oil and holzol recommended on your website.
      – if you recommend the Osmo – is it an oil and wax mix?
      – your thoughts on Woca oil.

      Many thanks,

      • Hi Eleanor,

        How much oil to apply comes down to the type of oil used. It’s true to say that using a traditional oil such as ‘Danish oil’ would require more coats and on a more regular basis. Hard Wax Oils like those supplied by Manns, Osmo, Holzol and Woca are made from a blend of oils, waxes and resins. The benefit of these is that they offer exceptional durability, are very easy to apply and maintain, require minimal maintenance and in most cases require just 2 thin coats.

        As Walnut is a dense hardwood, the top, bottom, sides and ends will only require 2 thin coats of a hard wax oil. It’s likely that the wood will not take any more than this and if over applied, the oil will likely leave a sticky residue on the surface that could take days or longer to dry. When applying its important to work the oil into the surface of the wood grain and wipe off any excess oil with a clean, lint-free cloth.

        All the brands mentioned are excellent and although they all have their own unique formulations, they all offer excellent protection on kitchen worktops. For further information about each product, please feel free to contact one of our resident wood experts who are on hand and happy to answer any questions you may have.

    23. Hi
      I have a nice American oak dining table which had a Matt finish to it
      It has a few stains on it due to children’s ink( red)
      I would like to re treat it- and indeed remove some of the stains. What application would you recommend?
      We also have an iroko island unit worktop which I have tried several times to treat with polyeurethane but it get white marks when cleaned with damp cloths and is not hard wearing. Any best ideas for this surface too

      • Good Afternoon Jules,

        Are you able to tell me what the current finish is on the table, varnish or oil ? Or are you planning to strip back to bare wood ?

        In regards to the Iroko Island, it could be in relation to a high oil content in the Iroko, being a tropical hard wood it has a tight grain and a naturally high oil content and this could be impacting on the polyurethane. If you are planning to remove the treatment and bring the Iroko back to bare wood I would recommend, firstly wiping over with Barrettine Methylated Spirits to remove the natural oil from the surface.

        And then you could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is an extra thin oil suited for use with tropical hard wood such as Iroko. It will absorb better and only two thin coats are required for this.

        If you have a look at the products recommended and feel free to get back to me with any questions via our contact us page.

        Kind Regards Samantha.

    24. We have light oak kitchen work surfaces which need re surfacing, the kitchen fitters used Dovetail Oil, a natural wood treatment but I would prefer a lighter, bleached or limed oak effect to go with neutral greys in our kitchen / living area.
      Any suggestions please ?

      Kind regards, Pauline

      • Hello Pauline,

        You could have a look at the Bona Craft Oil which has a couple of paler colours in the range. Applying a lighter colour on to a darker wood does not always give the desired colour and so I would recommend test area first to ensure that you like the finish to be achieved, the wood that you are applying to will impact on the over all colour to be achieved. This product does not come in a sample size unfortunately.

        So for an alternate that does have a sample size you could have a look at Osmo Polyx Oil Tints. There is a white in this range it is quite a subtle white and may be enough to highlight the grain. Test areas are the key to getting the look you want.

        I hope this helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    25. Very useful videos and info, thanks.

      We have had just brand new light oak, full stave worktops fitted to our new kitchen. The colouring is very important to the whole aesthetic – matching the grey panted cabinet doors and our light oak engineered flooring. So we want to avoid applying any protective oils etc. that may change the colour in any significant way.

      Do you have any ideas about what might be the best coating we could apply to retain the colour as much as possible.

      Thanks in advance

      • Good morning Clare,

        Many clear products will change the wood very slightly, darkening a little or highlighting the grain and natural tones of the wood. As you are looking to treat a worktop it needs to be a durable finish and so I would recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.

        This is a durable and hard wearing product that is moisture and dirt resistant. It is easy to apply and food safe once dry. It requires two thin coats applied to bare wood and because it has a minute amount of white pigment in it, this counteracts the darkening effect you get with the clear products. There is a sample size available and I would recommend a test area first.

        I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch.

        Kind Regards Samantha.

    26. We are having our kitchen redone. Our old wooden worktop was finished with Danish Oil and while this looked good,it is too dark for what we now have in mind. I also found the Danish Oil wasn’t so hard wearing in the areas of high traffic.
      This time we are hoping for a more ‘scrubbed’ look. We would like to keep the wood as blonde as possible. Can you recommend anything colourless and non shiney that will be durable and resilient?

      • Hello,

        Yes I can recommend a product for your worktops. The Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural. This is a much more durable and hard wearing oil than the Danish oil. It requires just two thin coats for application and because it contains a minute amount of white pigment it will leave the wood looking as unchanged as possible.

        I would recommend removing the remaining Danish Oil form the wood by wiping down with White Spirit or sanding back. A test area is always recommended and if you have any further questions I am happy to help.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    27. Hi, we have solid walnut worktops that are in need of oiling. I used Danish oil the last time i did it and the result wasn’t brilliant. The worktop was left a bit streaky. Recently the wortop has become tacky to the touch ( hence this post!)
      I contacted our kitchen suppler who advised that a product with a hardener would be a good idea and a more permanent treatment. I’m vary of undertaking this as I don’t want to permanently affect the look of the worktop if i do it wrong.

      I was hoping that you might advise on an appropriate product? From reading the other posts Work Top Oil would seem a good option, does this have hardener in the product?
      How should I prepare the surface as it already has several coats of Danish oil applied?
      What application method do you find gives the best results?


      • Good Afternoon Ultan,

        Thank you for getting in touch. The Holzol Worktop Oil is definitely a good option and will be more durable than the Danish Oil. I would recommend removing the Danish Oil first however, as the worktop oil requires very thin application to bare wood, any oil already applied will reduce the saturation levels and impact on how of the work top oil will be absorbed effectively.

        Once applied the finish should last for a year minimum but potentially longer depending on use. And then you can simply re apply a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it. Feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.

        Kind Regards Samantha.

    28. Good afternoon,

      We’ve not long since moved into a house with lovely wooden work-surfaces in the kitchen, but there are places appearing where some re-oiling is required. This feels like a daft question, but do I need to sand before I re-apply the oil? If yes, how much sanding is required – i.e. am I trying to get back to the bare wood, or is the aim simply to roughen the surface a bit?

      Your advice would be very welcome.

      Many thanks MH

      • Hello Mark,

        For re oiling a surface it may not be necessary to sand back although it will benefit from a denib with a Finishing Pad. This will help to improve any finish. It will depend on the condition of the surface. We do have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel with hints and tips for application.

        Do you know what oil you have on the surface? I will be able to offer a suggestion of an oil should you need to purchase one.

        Kind Regards Samantha

    29. Hi,

      I have a Howdens oak worktop which I have been treating with the “oil” (more like a varnish) from a yellow tin they supplied and have been treating for the last 10 years. The last treatment (done over a year ago) is a bit sticky in places. I like the idea of trying something new, but don’t want to go to the trouble of stripping back to bare wood – have you any suggestions as what I could use?


      • Hello Nick,

        You may find that the tacky/stickiness that you have is the result of the wood being saturated with oil. Oil soaks into a very thin layer of the the surface of the wood and there will be a point where it accepts no further oil and so any subsequent applications will sit on the surface and be ineffective.

        My best advice, although I know it not what you want to do, is to sand back to bare wood and start again with a product such as Manns Premier Top Oil. This is a long lasting oil that dries hard and gives a water repellent protective finish, which should only need a top up coat very two to three years depending on use of the worktop.

        I hope that helps and always try a test area first.

        Kind Regards Samantha.

    30. Hi, I have wooden kitchen worktops that have been finished with a Swedish wood oil. I did about 6 coats.
      However, I find that it is staining really easily and marking, red wine, oil etc. Can I just re oil over the top, or do I need to sand first? I’m wondering if it is the product or I have done something incorrectly?

      Many thanks in advance,

      • Hello Fiona,

        Oils are designed to soak into the surface of the wood. They normally require 2- 3 coats maximum, but this does depend on the type of oil you are using and I am not familiar with the Swedish Oil that you have used. The wood will become saturated at some stage and will no longer accept further oil and when this happens the oil sits on the surface of the wood and dries. This oil will be easily marked or stained as it is unable to protect effectively. Its worth checking on the packaging to see what the recommended number of coats are.

        If you find that you have over applied, removing the surface coats can be done by wiping down with White Spirit or a light sanding.

        I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know.

        All the Best Samantha.

    31. Hi
      I have inherited pine wooden work tops and cupboards tops that were previously treated with a diamond seal varnish that is peeling off.
      What is the best way to remove the varnish and do I need to take it back to bare wood in preparation for using a top oil. Wish to avoid a pine yellowy finish and looking to slightly darken the colour, I see osmo do a top oil in acacia colour, would this be appropriate on pine wood?

      Many thanks

      • Hello Deborah,

        Thank you for getting in touch. We have a great wood stripper on our website called Paint Panther Paint and Vanish Remover. It’s a gel-like substance that makes the varnish bubble up to be scraped off with a Filler Knife.

        Once back to clean, bare wood you can think about applying the Osmo Top Oil and we have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel with hints and tips on the application process.

        A test area should always be carried out first to ensure that you are getting the colour and finish that you want.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    32. Hi I have just had a European walnut butchers block and I’m looking for something that will bring out the natural colour of the wood but not make it to dark. It is its first time being treated so has nothing already on the surface, many thanks.

      • Hello David,

        Thank you for your enquiry. The Osmo Top Oil will be ideal for your butchers block. It is food safe liquid repellent and easy to apply and maintain. The clear will darken the wood slightly and highlight the grain of the wood. The Natural will leave the wood looking as untreated as possible.

        If you take look at this product and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    33. Hi,
      I have new oak worktops which are pre-oiled. A couple of splashes of water are already showing. I was told to remove them with steel wool and lemon oil.

      Two questions: can I just use worktop oil instead of lemon oil? To prevent further staining, so I use a seal or an oil? I was planning to use Rustin’s worktop oil but also have Osmo Polyx Oil.
      Thanks for letting me know!

      • Hello Chris,

        The benefit of having an oiled surface is that it can be patch repaired. Simply sand back the stained area and clean and then re apply some oil, the Worktop oil or the Osmo is likely to be suitable but a test area is always recommended. You may find some helpful tips on our YouTube Channel.

        And if there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know.

        Kind Regards Samantha.

    34. Hi we brought a oak block solid wood work surface my husband puts linseed oil on but we don’t think it’s doing that good help pls

      • Hello Amanda,

        The Linseed Oil will give limited protection and you may be better considering Holzol Worktop Oil, which will be far more durable then the the Linseed Oil. If you wipe the surface with White Spirit to remove the excess Linseed Oil and then carry out a test area with the Holzol, to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved.

        You can then maintain this by simply applying a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it, usually every 1 to 2 years. It’s also worth having a look at our YouTube Channel as there are a number of helpful videos on worktops.

        All the Best Samantha.

    35. Hi,

      I have Iroko worktops in my kitchen that are patchy due to people wiping down the tops with cloth that has been in liquid detergent water, or I’m assuming that this is the cause.

      I am planning to take them all back to wood and would like your recommendation as to what I can use to:

      1 – Enhance the colour of the wood
      2 – Protect against soapy dish water that my kids always seem to use to wipe up their mess.
      3 – Doesn’t fade when cleaned but ages gradually

      Appreciate your response.

      • Hello Steve,

        Thank you for your enquiry. You could look at the Holzol Worktop Oil. It is a natural finish that will be durable and protective. Like any oil it may effected by detergents that are not pH-neutral and this may be where you previous issue has come from.

        For cleaning the Osmo Spray Cleaner is a good option and will not damage the finish.

        If you have a read up of these products and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.

        Kind regards Samantha.

      • Hello Ellen,

        We have a Tinted Oil. Onyx could be suitable for your project. It is a very dark brown. And is available in sample sizes to allow you to do a test area first.

        It does need to be applied to bare wood, if you have a read up of the product and let me know if you have any further questions.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    36. Hi

      I have some pine worktops, which I am going to burn shou sugih ban style, my experiments give a great finish, but now looking for a suitable top treatment in a super matt finish, any recommendation?

      Kind regards

      • Hello Steve,

        Thank you for your enquiry. Its not a subject that I know a great deal about, but the usual recommendation for this technique is to finish with Tung Oil. The technique you are using of burning the wood will help to ensure the wood lasts for many years to come and applying this oil every 10 years or so can help to make it last even longer and also make cleaning easier.

        I would love to see the results of your project, and feel free to share our Facebook Page.

        If there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know.

        Kind Regards Samantha.

    37. Hi I have a Howden oak work surface and have used the varnish they supply. However, I hate the shiny varnishy finish and have found it difficult to reapply. I use osmo oil on my bannisters and love it. Can I use an oil as opposed to the varnish. If so, what should I do to prepare etc. and what is the best oil for my work surface?

      Many thanks

      • Hello Kath,

        The Osmo Polyx Oil is suitable for use on a kitchen worktop, it is food safe and durable. You would need to remove the existing varnish first however, as this will prevent the oil from penetrating. A test area should always be done and if you have any further questions please feel free to get in touch.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    38. Hello,

      We have just bought a new solid oak worktop and we are wanting to treat them but we would prefer the finished colour of the worktop to be quite light coloured. We have been told about white oil. Is there anything you can recommend to us for us to achieve a lighter colour and the order of how and what we would treat them with?

      Thank you

      • Hello Laura,

        Are you able to send me a photo of the worktop to wood@finishes.direct ? Applying a White Oil to a darker wood is an option, a test area is strongly advised however as the wood that you are applying to will have an impact on the colour that can be achieved. This product is available in a sample size to enable you to carry out a test area first.

        Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

        All the Best Samantha.

    39. Hello there,
      My mother has just moved to a new house which has a wooden worktop in the kitchen. The previous owner was using Finishing Oil every few months to treat it.
      When my kitchen was recently redone our builder recommended one of the newer oils for our new wooden worktop as it formed a better protective layer over the wood.
      Should i recommend my mother to use one of these newer oils instead and are they compatible with a worktop that has previously been treated with Finishing Oil?
      thank you

      • Hello Oliver,

        Yes for sure you could recommend a Hard Wax Oil for your mother’s work top. It is a durable finish that will need less maintenance over time and give better liquid repellency. It is food safe and should go over a previous oil treatment with no problem. A test area should be done first and the surface may benefit from a wipe over with some White Spirit before application.

        We also have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel that give hints and tips on application methods.

        I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

        Kind regards Samantha.

    40. Hi We have an IKEA worktop which is wooden and I assume it is a laminate, but not 100% sure. Can I us the same product to treat it as if it were Oak say?

      Also I have been told if it was originally treated with a solvent based product I cannot then treat it with a oil based product, and visa versa?

      • Hello Johna,

        If the worktop is laminated then it likely that it is not suitable for treatment with wood finishing products and should have a protective coat on it already. Its worth trying to find out what the worktop actually is so that I can advice on the correct products to use if the worktop needs it.

        It would be true to say that many products will not be compatible with each otehr, but this will depend on the products and brands involved. If you are able to get back to me with more details and I will be happy to advice further.

        All the Best Samantha.

    41. I have new beech worktops which I want oil with your Danish oil.

      Do I wash them down with white spirit before I apply the first coat to remove dust?

      Do I apply oil to where sealant will be applied for sinks and upstands or where joints will be made using glue? If so how long should final coat be left to dry?

      • Hello Stewart,

        Thank you for your inquiry,you can wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to remove any dust. White Spirits is only necessary if the wood already has some oil on it or to remove grease or stains. As the oil is designed to soak into the wood it will need to be applied before any sealer or glue and you should check all products are compatible by doing test areas. Once the oil is dry you can then apply any sealants. Although if you are using the Osmo Interior Gap Sealer then finishes can be applied after just one hour.

        I hope that helps and if you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch.

        Kind Regards Samantha.


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