What the Pro’s Use – Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. How to Apply Hard Wax Oils.

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This video will show you the best way apply A Hard Wax Oil Specifically – Fiddes HardWax Oil. However, this advice is also suitable for other Hard Wax Oils, such as Osmo Polyx Oil And Osmo Polyx Oil Tints.

Hard Wax Oils F.A.Q.

Q.Is the hard wax oil durable enough for a table top?

A. Absolutely, this product is perfect for any wooden items requiring good protection. Another big advantage of this product is that repairs are very easy to do should the need arise.

Q.Is hard wax oil any different to linseed oil or Danish oil?

A. It’s better because the wax content keeps the oil suspended in the surface of the wood for longer. This means that it’s a more durable oil and that that maintenance is required less frequently. Also 2-3 coats are recommended (2 for everywhere except table tops and high traffic areas) where as 3-5 coats are recommended for Linseed oil, Danish oil and Tung oil.

Q. I have an old oak floor that has been finely sanded, is the hard wax oil a good choice for it?

A. It is beneficial if the wood grain is open when applying this product because hard wax oil mainly sinks into the wood and becomes a part of the wood. For that reason it requires a fairly open grain to accept the oil and whilst being applied it is necessary to work the product into the wood. If you want to use any oil on your floor, but especially a wax oil it is recommended to sand the floor with a 150 grit sandpaper or coarser. Then this product will be ideal for you.

Q. Can I use a steam cleaner or steam mop to clean my oiled floor?

A. In short, ‘No’. Oiled and waxed finishes on floors are ‘Micro-porous’ which means that although the wood is protected, it can still breath as it is not completely sealed as it would be with a varnish.

Cleaning oiled or waxed floors with a steam cleaner or steam mop introduces high temperature and pressure water which can strip and penetrate the oiled or waxed finish and potentially damage the wooden floor.

Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Video Transcript

Hi I’m Ben O’Reilly from Wood-Finishes-Direct, and welcome to the product test and how to video guide. In this video I’m going to be discussing the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil ranges. They are a solvent based blend of natural oils and waxes that offer excellent durability, liquid repellency and a more natural look and feel to your interior wooden surfaces. They come in a range of clear and coloured oils.

The oil I am going to be using is, Fiddes Hard Wax Oil in Clear Satin. And I will be putting it onto my trusty spool table, over time of me filming video’s on it and it also being used as a demo table in our shop it had picked up a few stains and a little bit of damage, so I have knocked it back with some p120 paper just far enough to give me the opportunity to do a maintenance coat, whilst still maintaining its rustic look.

The applicator I’m going for today is the Mako Natural Bristle Wood-Care brush, it’s a really unique brush, they actually have hollow bristles so they suck the oil up like a straw and disperse it at really nice even rate. Once you’ve stirred your oil, and poured it into your paint tray you are ready to apply. To apply, just work in manageable areas, in long even strokes and with the grain, and of-course apply sparingly too.

So after applying I’m now going to remove any excess, with a Woodleys Microfibre Cloth, this may seem counter-intuitive however its very important you don’t let any excess dry on the surface. What you are actually doing is half helping it work into the wood, half wiping it off.

So I have let this dry for just over 4 hours, and its really brought it back to life. That’s the beauty of oils, for example say when you do eventually get some damage you need to either clean the area or give it a sand back depending on the severity of the damage and then re-apply another thin coat of oil and you are back as good as new.

If this was your first coat you would need to denib now, you would be denibbing with a Woodleys Finishing Pad. What you need to do is just work with the grain and work across the whole item. As this is technically a top coat, I won’t be doing it today.

A full list of products featured and used in this video is available in the description on YouTube. And if you need any help or advice, get in touch by phoning the phone number or emailing the email address on screen now, If you liked this video and would like to see more unique content, simply subscribe to our YouTube channel, like and comment on any of the video’s you like, and of course, always do a test area.

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6 COMMENTS

  1. Hi, Looking to put something on my new untreated pine stairs: I’ve noted that the colours come up darker and have tested some samples.. Can you confirm this process correct?

    – sand the stairs using P150 paper
    – hoover
    – wipe any marks off with a damp cloth
    – apply 1 coat of whiskey hard wax oil tint
    – wipe with microfibre cloth
    – denib with P180 woodleys pad ?
    – apply 2nd coat of whiskey hard wax tint
    – wipe with microfibre cloth
    – is another denib necessary here?
    – apply final coat of satin hard wax oil for durable finish ?

    • Good Afternoon Chris,

      Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. To finish on a 150 grit sanding is fine, if there was any previous products applied you need to fully remove this before any oils can be applied and this may require sanding with a lower grit to start with. Once back to bare wood and clean I often recommend a wipe over the whole surface with a damp cloth, this will remove any residual sanding dust but also highlight any possible marks or stains in the wood that are not visible to the eye when dry but may show up with a product applied.

      I would also recommend a test area with full application to ensure you like how the product looks on your wood. Then yes your first coat can be applied, excess removed with a cloth, denib and apply your second coat. Often you can stop here as these tend to be a two coat product. On soft woods it is possible to get a third coat as long as a test area proves positive.

      How you have applied the coats will also determine if you are able to apply a third coat, if you have used a roller, this applies more oil per areas than that of a brush and a cloth or sponge application less than that of a brush.

      For further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch with our team via our contact us page.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  2. Can liberon wax be a used on a pitch pine floor, If I was to thin it down would it soak in to the grain better? If my idea is viable what thinner to use? Sorry hoping for answer asap as was just about to do so before knowing

    • Good Afternoon,

      Thank you for your enquiry. If you are using the Liberon Floor Wax then this will be fine. It will not require thinning as this will reduce even further the amount of protection that the wax will give.

      For even better protection you can apply the Liberon Floor Sealer this will help protect against stains and scratches and is water,heat and alcohol resistant.

      I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Always try a test area first.

      Kind regards Samantha.

  3. I have a unit made from MDF and has bees wax applied. The unit had now been sanded down. Can I either paint or stain and what type of product would be best

    • Hello John,

      Thank you for your enquiry, are you able to tell me a little more about your project and what type of look you are hoping to achieve? Natural or Coloured ? Varnish or Oiled ? And I will be able to narrow down some possible products for you.

      Kind Regards Samantha.

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