This video will show you the best way apply A Hard Wax Oil Specifically – Fiddes HardWax Oil. However, this advice is also suitable for other Hard Wax Oils, such as Osmo Polyx Oil And Osmo Polyx Oil Tints.
Hard Wax Oils F.A.Q.
Q.Is the hard wax oil durable enough for a table top?
A. Absolutely, this product is perfect for any wooden items requiring good protection. Another big advantage of this product is that repairs are very easy to do should the need arise.
Q.Is hard wax oil any different to linseed oil or Danish oil?
A. It’s better because the wax content keeps the oil suspended in the surface of the wood for longer. This means that it’s a more durable oil and that that maintenance is required less frequently. Also 2-3 coats are recommended (2 for everywhere except table tops and high traffic areas) where as 3-5 coats are recommended for Linseed oil, Danish oil and Tung oil.
Q. I have an old oak floor that has been finely sanded, is the hard wax oil a good choice for it?
A. It is beneficial if the wood grain is open when applying this product because hard wax oil mainly sinks into the wood and becomes a part of the wood. For that reason it requires a fairly open grain to accept the oil and whilst being applied it is necessary to work the product into the wood. If you want to use any oil on your floor, but especially a wax oil it is recommended to sand the floor with a 150 grit sandpaper or coarser. Then this product will be ideal for you.
Q. Can I use a steam cleaner or steam mop to clean my oiled floor?
A. In short, ‘No’. Oiled and waxed finishes on floors are ‘Micro-porous’ which means that although the wood is protected, it can still breath as it is not completely sealed as it would be with a varnish.
Cleaning oiled or waxed floors with a steam cleaner or steam mop introduces high temperature and pressure water which can strip and penetrate the oiled or waxed finish and potentially damage the wooden floor.
Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Video Transcript
Hi I’m Ben O’Reilly from Wood-Finishes-Direct, and welcome to the product test and how to video guide. In this video I’m going to be discussing the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil ranges. They are a solvent based blend of natural oils and waxes that offer excellent durability, liquid repellency and a more natural look and feel to your interior wooden surfaces. They come in a range of clear and coloured oils.
The oil I am going to be using is, Fiddes Hard Wax Oil in Clear Satin. And I will be putting it onto my trusty spool table, over time of me filming video’s on it and it also being used as a demo table in our shop it had picked up a few stains and a little bit of damage, so I have knocked it back with some p120 paper just far enough to give me the opportunity to do a maintenance coat, whilst still maintaining its rustic look.
The applicator I’m going for today is the Mako Natural Bristle Wood-Care brush, it’s a really unique brush, they actually have hollow bristles so they suck the oil up like a straw and disperse it at really nice even rate. Once you’ve stirred your oil, and poured it into your paint tray you are ready to apply. To apply, just work in manageable areas, in long even strokes and with the grain, and of-course apply sparingly too.
So after applying I’m now going to remove any excess, with a Woodleys Microfibre Cloth, this may seem counter-intuitive however its very important you don’t let any excess dry on the surface. What you are actually doing is half helping it work into the wood, half wiping it off.
So I have let this dry for just over 4 hours, and its really brought it back to life. That’s the beauty of oils, for example say when you do eventually get some damage you need to either clean the area or give it a sand back depending on the severity of the damage and then re-apply another thin coat of oil and you are back as good as new.
If this was your first coat you would need to denib now, you would be denibbing with a Woodleys Finishing Pad. What you need to do is just work with the grain and work across the whole item. As this is technically a top coat, I won’t be doing it today.
A full list of products featured and used in this video is available in the description on YouTube. And if you need any help or advice, get in touch by phoning the phone number or emailing the email address on screen now, If you liked this video and would like to see more unique content, simply subscribe to our YouTube channel, like and comment on any of the video’s you like, and of course, always do a test area.
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Product Spotlight – Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Finish.
We are renovating the stairs in our Edwardian house. We have stripped the handrails and newel posts with Klingstrip.
Is a hard wax oil the best product for the areas now? We are looking for something durable, traditional, and natural looking.
Do we need to treat them with anything before we use the hard wax oil?
The stairs themselves are varnished, so we were going to revarnish – is that a problem?
I’m not sure what sort of sandpaper we should use – is there somewhere on this website that gives that advice?
Thank you very much.
Hard Wax Oils penetrate into the grain achieving a much more natural look than a varnish. The clear oil will enrich the natural colours in the grain and darken the grain to a degree depending on the porosity. If you rub a damp cloth on the surface of the wood, this will show you exactly how the wood will look when a clear product is applied. Alternatively, if you wanted to change the colour of the wood the Fiddes hard wax oil also comes in a tinted range. You would need to do your final sand to 150 grit. I will attach links below for you.
Hope that helps!!
I did a test with fiddes hard wax oil in Whiskey and loved the colour. I’ve now coated my floors with one coat and it’s very different to the test with it being alot darker and redder. I have sanded it right back, is it possible to thin the hard wax oil so it isn’t as strong?
Thank you for your enquiry. The oil can’t be thinned with a product such as white spirit or meths but it can me mixed with the clear Fiddes Hard Wax Oil to make the pigment less dense.
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/fiddes-hard-wax-oil – Maybe try a 50/50 mix to start with.
I hope this helps!
Hi . Just finished two coats of English hardwax oil on my mango wood table . Colour is lovely however there are a couple of panels where the wood seems a little more porous and has very little shine compare to the rest . It also feels a little rough although the whole table was denibbed in the same manner .Any suggestions ? Don’t really want another coat on the table as it will become too dark. Wondering if I could finish it with a beeswax ?
Good Morning Sharron,
Mango is quite a dense, naturally oily wood so I wouldn’t recommend a further coat of oil. The grain will already be sufficiently oiled. Any further oil applied will sit on top and as you mentioned darken the Mango too much. Any wax polish can be applied over the top of the oil but please bear in mind that wax polish is a soft coating and won’t be as durable as the oiled finish.
Hi I’ve just done last coat of fiddles hard wax oil on worktop can use my orbital sander after it drys too get a nice slide smooth finish too the worktop if yes what grade of paper thank you
Use a finishing pad and do some test areas, if you’d like to contact us we’d be more than happy to help you with this further.
If I apply two coats of dark oak will it make the wood darker, than just doing one coat , many thanks ?
The general rule of thumb is that the more coats you apply the more intense or darker the colour will become. There are many variables that will have an effect on the result and so the best thing will always to be to carry out a test area first. If you need any support or further advice on the matter please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
All the Best Samantha.
I have a kitchen counter top I’ve been told it’s walnut but I’m not sure. It was heavily watermarked so I sanded it down. I have applied a few coats ronseal worktop oil and a few coats of Danish oil. It doesn’t seem to be creating a waterproof surface. I wondered if I could apply hard wax oil over the existing coats of oil or do I need to sand it back again? Many thanks
There are so many products available on the Market it can be difficult to know what is best for your project and what will give a long lasting and durable protection. Most oils will offer great resistance to moisture, some dry hard and some are a softer option. The softer options can be a little less durable and require a regular top up, whilst others can give a better level of protection to your wood. A lot of this can also depend on the preparation of the wood before application.
Walnut is a particularly hard wood type and as a result some oils may find it difficult to soak in to the woods surface, when this happens the oil can dry on the surface of the wood and it offers a reduced level of protection when this occurs. This may be the case with the extra application of the Danish oil that you have applied. The wood simply has too much oil in and on it and is marking easily.
My recommendation for a walnut worktop would be for an Osmo product, the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is ideal for a hard wood and when applied to well prepared bare wood with just two very thin coats, will dry hard and give a much more durable protective finish.
Because the oil becomes part of the wood its a very natural look and feel and is easily maintained over time. Sample sachets are available for this and I would recommend tests first to ensure you are getting the desired finish. If you need any further help or advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, how long after applying hard wax to floors, do you then remove the excess?
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. If you allow around 20-30 minutes for the oil to soak into the woods surface and then any excess can be be removed with a lint free cloth. Ideally if you have applied with a brush and worked to oil well over the surface, there should be little to remove. If you have applied with a roller, you will find there will be a little more to remove.
By doing this you prevent any oil from drying on the surface of the wood. Surface oil offers reduced protection and can be susceptible to flaking at a later date. If you need any further help and advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, I’m refinishing a wooden kitchen worktop with Fiddes hard wax oil. I only have 80grit and 120 grit sandpaper.. Can I get away with using 120 instead of the recommened 150? Thanks!
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. Yes you can, Finishing on a 120 may or may not leave the grain slightly more open than required, this means that slightly more oil will be absorbed into the wood. This in turn could result in a more intense or darker colour result. The difference is likely to be fairly minimal.
I would say that once the second coat has been applied and dried a small test to ensure there is enough oil in the wood may be an idea, its difficult to say with out knowing the wood type, however a third coat may be required if the grain is more open. Put a small drop of oil on the surface, if after 30 minutes it has soaked in, you could apply a very thin third coat to ensure best protection. If the drop does not move then the wood is suitable protected with the two coats. Soft woods will take more oil than a hardwood and which ever it is a test area should always be carried out first.
If there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to let me know via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi there I have applied two coats of fiddies hard wax oil, not realising the second coat has made the wood a lot darker grey then the first, and now less grain is visible. Do you have any advice of how I can make the shade lighter again ? I don’t mind removing the wax if there is a suitable method.
Its always frustrating when the colour does not quite meet expectations. And test areas are always recommended as they help to ensure you like the result before full application. Sometimes time constrains or booked workmen make this hard, however I would always encourage that initial check as the wood type, age and condition will all have an impact on the result that will be achieved.
The only way to lighten the result now will be to sand back and start again I am afraid. Its easy to darken a light colour, however you can lighten a darker colour with these types of wood finishes.
If you like the colour result with one coat of the Tinted Oil then the second coat can be a clear oil from the same range, and this will give you that lighter overall look.
I do hope that helps some and if you need any further advice please do not hesitate to let me know via our contact us page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi I’ve made a coffee table applied a coat of “American” hardwax oil and then a coat of clear the customer wants its slightly darker so could I add another tinted coat on top of the clear coat and then clear coat again?
The Hard Wax Oil are generally only a two coat product. Two coats are sufficient to saturate the wood, and once full with oil, the wood will not absorb any more, this results in the oil drying on the surface of the wood and you will find this offers minimal protection and is likely to mark easily.
There are times when it is possible to get a third coat in, particularly soft wood or if application was done with a cloth perhaps, making the previous coats exceptionally thin,however test areas need to be done to establish if this is possible. It is likely that you would need to sand back in order to get an alternate colour coats applied. And if you need any advice at all on this please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page.
All the Best Samantha
I made the mistake pof outting a third layer and the oil wax dried on the surface and i know i need to fix this. How to best do this? Do i sand with a 240 or different grit? And after sanding,do I apply another coat or will the 240 bring the wood to an acceptable finish? The wood was unfinished oak, i sanded before applying the first coat.
Thank you for your enquiry. Please try wiping over the surface of the Oak several times with Methylated Spirit. This often removes enough excess oil to produce a nice finish. If not, you will need to sand back to bare wood and completely refinish the oak by applying 2 coats of oil.
Hi, Looking to put something on my new untreated pine stairs: I’ve noted that the colours come up darker and have tested some samples.. Can you confirm this process correct?
– sand the stairs using P150 paper
– wipe any marks off with a damp cloth
– apply 1 coat of whiskey hard wax oil tint
– wipe with microfibre cloth
– denib with P180 woodleys pad ?
– apply 2nd coat of whiskey hard wax tint
– wipe with microfibre cloth
– is another denib necessary here?
– apply final coat of satin hard wax oil for durable finish ?
Good Afternoon Chris,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. To finish on a 150 grit sanding is fine, if there was any previous products applied you need to fully remove this before any oils can be applied and this may require sanding with a lower grit to start with. Once back to bare wood and clean I often recommend a wipe over the whole surface with a damp cloth, this will remove any residual sanding dust but also highlight any possible marks or stains in the wood that are not visible to the eye when dry but may show up with a product applied.
I would also recommend a test area with full application to ensure you like how the product looks on your wood. Then yes your first coat can be applied, excess removed with a cloth, denib and apply your second coat. Often you can stop here as these tend to be a two coat product. On soft woods it is possible to get a third coat as long as a test area proves positive.
How you have applied the coats will also determine if you are able to apply a third coat, if you have used a roller, this applies more oil per areas than that of a brush and a cloth or sponge application less than that of a brush.
For further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch with our team via our contact us page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Can liberon wax be a used on a pitch pine floor, If I was to thin it down would it soak in to the grain better? If my idea is viable what thinner to use? Sorry hoping for answer asap as was just about to do so before knowing
Thank you for your enquiry. If you are using the Liberon Floor Wax then this will be fine. It will not require thinning as this will reduce even further the amount of protection that the wax will give.
For even better protection you can apply a hard wax oil. Hard wax oils are more durable than a stand-alone wax and will help protect floors against stains and scratches. They are also water, heat, and alcohol resistant.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Always try a test area first.
Kind regards Samantha.
I have a unit made from MDF and has bees wax applied. The unit had now been sanded down. Can I either paint or stain and what type of product would be best
Thank you for your enquiry, are you able to tell me a little more about your project and what type of look you are hoping to achieve? Natural or Coloured ? Varnish or Oiled ? And I will be able to narrow down some possible products for you.
Kind Regards Samantha.