Everything You Need to Know About Pine Flooring

|Tim Hagger

Of all the types of flooring available, wood with the perfect finish is still the most popular. And oak floorboards are gorgeous as well as fashionable. But pine wood flooring is another strong contender in the beauty stakes, a softwood that’s been used to make floorboards for centuries and a feature of many old homes across Britain.

Flooring made from pine log rounds

Pine Log Rounds – from antiquewoodnews.com

Vintage pine floorboards

Vintage Pine Floorboards

We’ve taken several long, detailed looks at oak flooring, furniture and doors. Now it’s time to explore the wonderful world of pine. If you have a pine floor that needs attention, or you’ve been tasked with getting one in apple-pie order for someone else, here’s everything you need to know.

Types of pine

Pine, also sometimes called redwood, is cheaper and more common than traditional hardwoods, ranging from almost white through various yellow shades to a deep, rich red. For a softwood, it’s often remarkably resilient and long-lasting, especially in the context of well-looked-after pine floors.

Pinus is the species we see most in UK and EU plantations. It’s useful for all sorts of utility work, a common wood for beams, flooring and structural purposes. But that’s just the start of it. There are a whole load of different types of pine trees found in the wild, so many in fact that the Wood Database website’s impressively long list is far too detailed to repeat here.

If you’re interested in the similarities and differences between soft pines and hard pines, and those within each group, you can’t beat the Wood Database pine page, an excellent resource.

Horses for courses – The pine flooring aesthetic

There’s a variety of flooring ideas and opinions concerning keeping wooden floors looking good. Some concerns involve floor maintenance, as some floors require little in the way of maintenance, while others require plenty of elbow grease and attention. And the choice is often a matter of aesthetics.

One of the best things about wood flooring is that it changes, going through all sorts of fascinating stages over time, depending on its type and location, with an equally wide range of end results. And every stage of the ageing process has its own beauty.

You might love the hundred-year-old (or much older) patina your old pine boards have acquired through generations of wear. It might be stained and dirty, uneven and bent, sometimes more or less black. But to you it’s perfect – a living piece of history marking decades or even centuries of human use. And that’s fine. If it has lasted this long in one piece, it might well last a great deal longer without falling apart on you.

Eastern white pine cabin interior

Eastern White Pine Cabin Interior

Your floor might be reasonably worn, partway between new and aged. You might adore the effect – the real shabby chic ideal – or you may prefer to get rid of the muck and repair any damage, giving it a whole new lease of life as well as a smooth, contemporary look.

A brand-new pine floor, on the other hand, can look pretty raw. The paler it is, the newer and less settled-in it looks. You might want to use a wood dye to create a subtler, less in-your-face effect, calming the brightness down a bit, and if it hasn’t already been protected, you’ll want to add a finishing oil or good-quality varnish.

How pine changes over time

The colour is one thing. The condition of old pine floors is another. Old boards can cup or arch over time, each board curling up at the edges, which means when you try to sand them you tend to get a thin sanded strip down the middle of each board at the high point, which widens on each pass of the sander as the boards are slowly levelled by the sanding process.

When you sand old pine boards back to the wood, they can look very pale, even colourless. But don’t worry. The minute you apply a clear wood finishing product like an oil or varnish, that warm, attractive natural golden colour will come flooding through.

Testing the colour of your floorboards before finishing them

This change in colour is so dramatic that it’s usually best to test how it’ll look finished before choosing an oil or varnish. Luckily it’s easy. All you do is rub the surface with a damp – not wet – cloth and you get the exact same effect as oiling or varnishing – the colour suddenly shines through. Once you know what’s what, you can choose your finish: either something to enhance the natural colour or a colourless product.

What if you want to get rid of that bright orange/gold colour?

Orange or golden pine isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. And that’s the effect you can get from a standard clear oil or varnish – as time passes it can turn a deeper orange/gold, even a nasty brown. If your pine floor has gone a funny colour, you can always sand the old finish off and replace it with a product that won’t change colour as it ages.

If you’re looking to retain the natural appearance of freshly sanded boards, pine or oak, Osmo Polyx Oil Raw and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are both great products for defusing and countering the gold/orange colour you sometimes get.

  • Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) is made with natural oils and waxes, gives excellent protection and durability and is specifically formulated to retain the ‘natural’ look of wood. It counteracts the damp-looking darkening effect and grain enhancement you typically get with standard clear oils or varnishes.
  • Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural also keeps wood looking as natural and unaltered in colour as possible and dries to a clear, satin-matt finish. It’s perfect for light-coloured woods like pine, spruce and oak.
Osmo Polyx Oil Raw 3044 tin

Osmo Polyx Oil

Pine wood floor refinishing – Varnish or oil?

What’s best, an oil or a varnish? The protective qualities are much the same. But oil and varnish come with different types of maintenance, and to a great extent your choice depends on the amount of wear and tear the floor receives.

  • Using a wooden floor varnish tends to provide better durability and less maintenance, but you’ll need to re-sand the entire floor back to bare wood when the varnish eventually gets damaged and worn. How long this takes depends on the type and quality of the varnish and how much wear your floor is subjected to. It could be every year if you have pets, visitors and kids running in and out all the time. It could be five years or more if your home life is a lot quieter or you’ve covered the floor with rugs.
  • Using a wooden floor oil, on the other hand, requires maintenance, usually every couple of years, but it won’t flake, crack or peel off. It looks better than varnish as it begins to wear and is very easy to patch repair if it becomes worn in specific areas, unlike varnish. When an oiled floor starts to look like it’s past its best, simply clean with a suitable floor cleaner to remove any marks, scuffs or stains, then reapply a thin coat of oil, and “Voilà!” it’s just like new again. Even bad scuffs, stains, marks and light scratches can be fixed by lightly sanding the area and reapplying a fresh coat of oil.

A tough varnish, by the way, won’t make the flooring itself hard. If you drop something heavy on the floor, the wood will still dent even though the varnish stays intact.

We have put together this handy video helping you to understand the key difference between a varnish and oil, as well as application techniques.

Need help with your pine floorboards?

For more information about interior floor finishes and treatments, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great blogs that discuss wood flooring

217 comments

Reply to Sylvia Lobb:

Hello Sylvia,

Thank you for your enquiry. The condition of the boards will have an impact on the over all finish of the floor. Its worth giving the wood a good clean and wipe down with White Spirits. This will remove any residual grease and dirt. Then a test area can be carried out to ensure that the varnish will give you the colour that you want. Good preparation will lead to a good finish and for further tips you can visit our YouTube Channel (https://www.youtube.com/user/WoodFinishesDirect/videos?view_as=subscriber).

I hope that helps and if do let me know if you have any further questions.

Kind regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Hi,

We have just moved into a 1930’s house with original red pine floor boards. They have not been previously treated so is it necessary to do all the sanding or can I given them a Hoover, mop and then stain/oil? Many thanks?

Erin •

Reply to Erin:

Hello Erin,

Its difficult to say as it depend on how long they have been untreated and the condition over all of the wood. I would be happy to take a look at some photos, you can send them to wood@finishes.direct.

For the best result it would probably be advisable to give at least one sand with a 120 grit in the direction of the grain, to prepare the wood for which ever treatment you are looking to apply, particularly oils.

If you need any advice on which products to finish your floor with please feel free to email me.

All the Best Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Hi. Can u please tell me how many times a pine floor can be sanded? Thank you!

John •

Reply to John:

Hello John,

Its difficult to give a definitive answer on that one, it can depend on a number of factors that include age, type and condition. What is the purpose of the wood and how many times it has been done previously. Also with previous sanding, what grit and what was removed? Feel free to email me with more information about the wood to wood@finishes.direct

Kind Regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Hi Sam – We are putting in a new wide-plank eastern white pine floor in our 1890 farmhouse. I want the floor to look old and like it was original to the house. I am struggling with how we should finish it. We want to develop that amber patina and am hoping we don’t have to apply 6-7 coats like some of the articles I’ve read suggest. Let me know if you have any suggestions! Thanks in advance -

Karen Merchant •

Reply to Karen Merchant:

Hello Karen,

I can recommend looking at the Manns Classic Pine Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-pine-wood-stain) which has a wide range of colours available. These colours can be used to create that aged effect if you are a bit clever with it. A mixture of colours applied to the wood to give a patina type colouring, it’s such a versatile product. You can add water to lighten the tone, you can intermix to create new colours and you are able to apply a number of layers to intensify colour and scrub back with water and a Finishing Pad (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/woodleys-finishing-pads).

So you can play around with these colours to get the colour you desire and then seal with a Hard Wax Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil) or Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-interior-varnish) to protect the timber and the stain.

If you take a look at these products and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions or you can email me at wood@finishes.direct

Many Thanks Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

great website!

i have a few areas where the pine floor boards in my 1930’s house are worn/cracked. I was going to replace them with new pine floor boards and then stain with a dark oak stain and then possibly satin varnish or a ployeurethane on top of that.

Do you foresee any problems in doing this? I would obviously do some sample tests before progressing.

Thanks
Col

Colin •

Reply to Colin:

Hello Colin,

It is a common project, floor boards often need replacing and it follows that they will then need colour matching with existing boards. It is not always easy to colour match and I would recommend the Manns Classic Pine Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-pine-wood-stain) as this is a very versatile product, it can be intermixed to make alternate colours or it can be lightened by adding water until you get the desired colour.

Its worth bearing in mind that the top coat of Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-floor-varnish) will darken the tone slightly. Test area will be the key to getting the finish that you want.

If there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know.

Kind regards Samantha.

Sam •

Hi

I wonder if you could give some advise on treating new pine floorboards that will be partly covered by a rug. I am looking for a bleached out finish to ensure that no yellow comes through and a low maintenance option and a finish that is easy to clean , this is for a bedroom. Any help would be much appreciated

Dawn •
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