Of all the types of flooring available, wood with the perfect finish is still the most popular. And oak floorboards are gorgeous as well as fashionable. But pine wood flooring is another strong contender in the beauty stakes, a softwood that’s been used to make floorboards for centuries and a feature of many old homes across Britain.
Pine Log Rounds – from antiquewoodnews.com
Vintage Pine Floorboards
We’ve taken several long, detailed looks at oak flooring, furniture and doors. Now it’s time to explore the wonderful world of pine. If you have a pine floor that needs attention, or you’ve been tasked with getting one in apple-pie order for someone else, here’s everything you need to know.
Types of pine
Pine, also sometimes called redwood, is cheaper and more common than traditional hardwoods, ranging from almost white through various yellow shades to a deep, rich red. For a softwood, it’s often remarkably resilient and long-lasting, especially in the context of well-looked-after pine floors.
Pinus is the species we see most in UK and EU plantations. It’s useful for all sorts of utility work, a common wood for beams, flooring and structural purposes. But that’s just the start of it. There are a whole load of different types of pine trees found in the wild, so many in fact that the Wood Database website’s impressively long list is far too detailed to repeat here.
If you’re interested in the similarities and differences between soft pines and hard pines, and those within each group, you can’t beat the Wood Database pine page, an excellent resource.
Horses for courses – The pine flooring aesthetic
There’s a variety of flooring ideas and opinions concerning keeping wooden floors looking good. Some concerns involve floor maintenance, as some floors require little in the way of maintenance, while others require plenty of elbow grease and attention. And the choice is often a matter of aesthetics.
One of the best things about wood flooring is that it changes, going through all sorts of fascinating stages over time, depending on its type and location, with an equally wide range of end results. And every stage of the ageing process has its own beauty.
You might love the hundred-year-old (or much older) patina your old pine boards have acquired through generations of wear. It might be stained and dirty, uneven and bent, sometimes more or less black. But to you it’s perfect – a living piece of history marking decades or even centuries of human use. And that’s fine. If it has lasted this long in one piece, it might well last a great deal longer without falling apart on you.
Eastern White Pine Cabin Interior
Your floor might be reasonably worn, partway between new and aged. You might adore the effect – the real shabby chic ideal – or you may prefer to get rid of the muck and repair any damage, giving it a whole new lease of life as well as a smooth, contemporary look.
A brand-new pine floor, on the other hand, can look pretty raw. The paler it is, the newer and less settled-in it looks. You might want to use a wood dye to create a subtler, less in-your-face effect, calming the brightness down a bit, and if it hasn’t already been protected, you’ll want to add a finishing oil or good-quality varnish.
How pine changes over time
The colour is one thing. The condition of old pine floors is another. Old boards can cup or arch over time, each board curling up at the edges, which means when you try to sand them you tend to get a thin sanded strip down the middle of each board at the high point, which widens on each pass of the sander as the boards are slowly levelled by the sanding process.
When you sand old pine boards back to the wood, they can look very pale, even colourless. But don’t worry. The minute you apply a clear wood finishing product like an oil or varnish, that warm, attractive natural golden colour will come flooding through.
Testing the colour of your floorboards before finishing them
This change in colour is so dramatic that it’s usually best to test how it’ll look finished before choosing an oil or varnish. Luckily it’s easy. All you do is rub the surface with a damp – not wet – cloth and you get the exact same effect as oiling or varnishing – the colour suddenly shines through. Once you know what’s what, you can choose your finish: either something to enhance the natural colour or a colourless product.
What if you want to get rid of that bright orange/gold colour?
Orange or golden pine isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. And that’s the effect you can get from a standard clear oil or varnish – as time passes it can turn a deeper orange/gold, even a nasty brown. If your pine floor has gone a funny colour, you can always sand the old finish off and replace it with a product that won’t change colour as it ages.
If you’re looking to retain the natural appearance of freshly sanded boards, pine or oak, Osmo Polyx Oil Raw and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are both great products for defusing and countering the gold/orange colour you sometimes get.
- Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) is made with natural oils and waxes, gives excellent protection and durability and is specifically formulated to retain the ‘natural’ look of wood. It counteracts the damp-looking darkening effect and grain enhancement you typically get with standard clear oils or varnishes.
- Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural also keeps wood looking as natural and unaltered in colour as possible and dries to a clear, satin-matt finish. It’s perfect for light-coloured woods like pine, spruce and oak.
Osmo Polyx Oil
Pine wood floor refinishing – Varnish or oil?
What’s best, an oil or a varnish? The protective qualities are much the same. But oil and varnish come with different types of maintenance, and to a great extent your choice depends on the amount of wear and tear the floor receives.
- Using a wooden floor varnish tends to provide better durability and less maintenance, but you’ll need to re-sand the entire floor back to bare wood when the varnish eventually gets damaged and worn. How long this takes depends on the type and quality of the varnish and how much wear your floor is subjected to. It could be every year if you have pets, visitors and kids running in and out all the time. It could be five years or more if your home life is a lot quieter or you’ve covered the floor with rugs.
- Using a wooden floor oil, on the other hand, requires maintenance, usually every couple of years, but it won’t flake, crack or peel off. It looks better than varnish as it begins to wear and is very easy to patch repair if it becomes worn in specific areas, unlike varnish. When an oiled floor starts to look like it’s past its best, simply clean with a suitable floor cleaner to remove any marks, scuffs or stains, then reapply a thin coat of oil, and “Voilà!” it’s just like new again. Even bad scuffs, stains, marks and light scratches can be fixed by lightly sanding the area and reapplying a fresh coat of oil.
A tough varnish, by the way, won’t make the flooring itself hard. If you drop something heavy on the floor, the wood will still dent even though the varnish stays intact.
We have put together this handy video helping you to understand the key difference between a varnish and oil, as well as application techniques.
Need help with your pine floorboards?
For more information about interior floor finishes and treatments, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
217 comments
Reply to harry robison:
Hello Harry,
Although Polishes and some Waxes are suitable for floors, it is not something that we tend to recommend, for exactly the reason that you have highlighted. And the more you walk around in socks or soft slippers, the more you will be buffing the polish.
My advice would be to remove the polish with some White Spirit (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-white-spirit) and use a more durable and hard wearing product that will not get slippery. Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil) is a far more durable finish that will not require topping up as often as a polish. It will be more scratch resistant and will repel liquids. And will not get slippery.
It is available in sample sizes should you wish to try a test area first and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact).
Kind Regards Samantha.
I live in a 1920’s house which has softwood pine floors. The flooring has this old black varnish/stain around the edges about 2 feet wide.
What is this black finish?
What is the best thing to remove as it clogs up sanding disc and is really messy.
Reply to Stewart:
Hello Stewart,
This was a common practise in the early part of the twentieth century. It is a tar like paint that was used to edge rooms with in the house where a rug did not reach to. It is notoriously difficult to remove and may strippers will not work, and as you have discovered sanding is hard work.
You could try PeelAway Paint Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-peelaway-1-and-7-sample-twin-pack?) too see if it will have an effect on the paint. The Sample Pack is advised to avoid wasting money on a larger tub that may not work. The Peelaway 1 is the one which is more likely to work, but it is worth trying both.
Failing that perseverance with the sanding is likely to be you only other option. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact).
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello
I am in desperate need of advice!
My very old pine floors are being sanded down today and the men doing my floor are trying to convince me I need a dye put on before the oil.
I am not sure I want any dye on my lovely floors – do you think it’s necessary? Their reasons are because the pine is so light and they think it needs evening out.
Thank you!
Sara
Reply to Sara:
Good Afternoon Sarah,
My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. Applying a dye or stain is purely to add colour to the wood and is not a necessity. When a clear oil is applied to wood, it will highlight the natural tones of the wood and can make any variations more noticeable and so test areas are recommended to ensure that you will like the finish before it is applied all over. It is also possible that a clear oil will make the Pine look very orange.
I hope that helps and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions on wood@finishes.direct
All the Best Samantha.
Hi Sam, I have pine flooring in my 1950s ranch. It has some wear, scratches, and dull areas. Could you recommend a product to temporarily seal and brighten up the floor without having to do a complete sanding of the floor. We are planning a complete re- do in the spring. The floors were previously varnished. Thanks
Reply to Jen F:
Hello Jen,
Thank you for your enquiry. For freshening up a varnished floor that is a little on the dull side you could have a look at the Bona Freshen Up (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/bona-freshen-up). It is a waterborne maintenance coating for varnished floors.
If you have a look at the products and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Busy laying a brand new pine floor in a Guide Hall. What kind of varnish do I use.Its a high traffic area and needs to be incredibly hard wearing.
Reply to Maureen Walker:
Good afternoon Maureen,
For high traffic areas such as yours we recommend the Manns Trade Extra Tough Pro Floor Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-trade-extra-tough-pro-floor-varnish). This is a very durable two part floor varnish that is ideal for high traffic commercial and domestic areas.
As you are applying to fresh new wood I would recommend a coat of the Manns Trade Intense Primer (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-trade-intense-primer) first. If you have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello,
I have recently sanded the pine boards that I found under the old hall carpet, I intended to apply a Ronseal interior varnish but some of the boards seem very dry. Should I treat them with something before varnishing?
Regards
Sylvia