Wood Flooring Varnish Repair

|Alison Oakes

Using a quality floor varnish is a great way of enhancing the natural character and grain of wooden floors while protecting them from the general day-to-day wear and tear of busy environments. Cleaning and maintaining varnished floors with products specifically formulated for this purpose can help to keep them in tip-top condition for many years to come.

On the other hand, while extremely tough, wooden floor varnishes aren’t indestructible. Luckily there’s plenty you can do to maintain that beautiful finish, whether it’s a clear matt, satin, gloss or perhaps even a tinted or coloured floor varnish.

Does your real wooden floor have patches of damaged varnish that are making it look tatty, rough and worn in places, or all over? Here’s some advice on how to improve the appearance of these troublesome areas…

Common problems with a varnished floor

We see it all, but the most common real wood finish, varnish-related problems we hear about are localised patches of wear, where chairs with wheels, castors and hard legs have worn the varnish thin. Sometimes the wear is so heavy it takes off the varnish altogether, right down to the bare wood, particularly around desks and tables. Excessive wear near exterior doors – your front door, back door, kitchen door and patio doors – is also common.

How does it happen? Small particles of grit, dirt and other abrasive materials brought in from the outdoors by the wind, pets and people’s feet slowly wear away the varnish in these high-traffic areas, not unlike sandpaper. You might also find damage to wood floor varnish happens when something heavy or sharp is dropped, which chips or splits the floor finish.

Glossy varnished wooden floor in a room with glazed doors

Varnished Wood Floor – from beautysalon2you.nl

Can Wood Flooring Varnish Be Repaired?

There isn’t a straightforward yes or no answer. It depends on the extent of the damage, the type of wood varnish being repaired and what you expect from the result. We thought it’d be useful to look at the issues and answer the most frequent questions our customers ask about repairing wooden floors with a varnish finish.

Real wood floor restoration Q&A

Q. What is the difference between floor varnish and floor lacquer?

A. There’s no difference. They’re one and the same thing. In the trade we usually call them lacquers, while the general public tend to call them varnishes.

Q. How can I tell which type of existing floor varnish I have?

A. It’s difficult to tell the difference between a water-based varnish for wood floors, solvent-based varnishes or oil-based floor varnish, especially by appearance alone. When they’re dry they look much the same, even to an expert. Most modern varnishes from the last 15 to 20 years are likely to be water-based. If the floor was varnished more than 20 years ago, you can probably assume it’s an oil-based varnish. Water-based varnishes tend to give a clearer finish while some of the older oil-based varnishes had more of a warm colour to them. Solvent-based varnishes are usually used on furniture, applied with a spray gun because they dry so fast (usually within 10–15 minutes) and have a very strong smell. This makes them difficult to use on large, confined areas like floors.

Q. If I do have a damaged area that I want to repair, will it blend in seamlessly with the surrounding varnish?

A. Wood floor restoration rarely delivers a completely invisible repair when you’re working with varnish. The new varnish will probably have a different formula and things like age and natural colouration over time change the appearance of the original varnish coating.

Wooden floor repairs – When the varnish is partially worn

If the varnish is only partially worn, you’re in luck. It should be fairly straightforward to tackle and the repair will be less obvious than varnish that’s worn right down to the bare wood.

You can take this approach for the entire floor, but always do a test patch first in a corner to make sure the new floor varnish is compatible with the old finish. Leave it for 24 hours, then scrape the surface with a thumbnail to test it has stuck fast to the original finish.

Close-up of golden wooden floorboards with visible grain

Wood Floor – Repaired

Wood floor repairs – When the varnish is worn away to the bare wood

When you need to tackle areas that have worn right through to the bare wood, the process is a little more complex. It’s also worth bearing in mind the final wooden floor restoration finish probably won’t blend in as well as repairing a partially worn surface.

It helps to think about the damaged area as a very shallow bowl, where the bare wooden floor is the base of the bowl and the undamaged floor surface surrounding the damaged area is the rim. The inside of the bowl is rough and ridged and the uneven raised rim makes it look like the crater of a volcano in miniature.

You need to sand the damaged area smooth so you get a gradual transition between the bare wood and the undamaged surface. As you apply each coat of varnish during the repair process, you’re filling about a third of the bowl. By the third coat, the freshly applied varnish has filled the damaged area to the same level as the existing varnish finish.

  • Stage 1 – The first stage is to gently sand the edge of the varnish from the bare wood area of the ‘bowl’ you’ve visualised to around 150 mm beyond the edge of the bare patch. Use fine 150-grit sandpaper to get a nice smooth transition from the bare wood to the edge of the repair area. There shouldn’t be any trace of a lip or edge between the damaged and undamaged areas, and you’ll be able to feel when you’ve got it right. Run your hand over the sanded area to check you’ve sanded the edge completely smooth.
  • Stage 2 – Hoover or wipe the area carefully to remove all traces of sanding dust and debris.
  • Stage 3 – Apply a thin coat of varnish, ideally with a small brush, to just the bare wood area for starters, overlapping the thinnest, sanded area of original varnish by 10 mm or so.
  • Stage 4 – Allow the varnish to dry thoroughly.
  • Stage 5 – Gently rub the dry finish with fine 320-grit sandpaper to get rid of rough bits and particles (a process called de-nibbing), then vacuum or wipe the area with a clean, dry cloth to remove all traces of sanding dust.
  • Stage 6 – Apply a second thin coat of varnish from the centre of the repair but this time go as far as 100 mm from the bare wood area, and about 50 mm in from the undamaged floor surface area.
  • Stage 7 – Let the finish dry thoroughly, then gently de-nib the freshly coated area with fine 320-grit sandpaper, then hoover or wipe the area to remove stray sanding dust.
  • Stage 8 – Apply a final coat thinly over the whole repair area up to the point where the good varnish starts and overlapping the good floor surface by around 10 mm.
Close-up of polished reddish-brown hardwood floorboards

Varnished Hardwood Floor – from intersomma.com

What about aiming for total wood floor repairs perfection?

Varnish repair and maintenance is part and parcel of most real wooden floor restoration projects. While you are unlikely to achieve perfection, the current trend for preserving a beautiful, interesting patina means flawlessness isn’t as desirable as it was not so long ago, when we were all decorating in immaculate minimalist boutique hotel style.

Wood is natural and flawed. Every piece is unique and the wear and tear you and your family create contributes to the floor’s beauty and personality. Taking care to maintain a varnished floor and dealing with areas of wear and damage quickly means you’ll prevent damaged areas from getting worse, extending the usability and enjoyment of wooden floors for longer, if not a lifetime.

Need help varnishing your wooden floor?

For more information about wooden floor varnish and its uses, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great blogs that discuss wood varnishes

37 comments

This post does a great job of breaking things down into understandable points. It’s both informative and practical at the same time. hardwood repair

Angeline Scott •

Hello I’ve got real wood flooring it’s been down about 17years got a few scratches an a few little chip marks where my children had dropped there toys don’t know what varnish to use an how I can get these marks out it’s a light flooring probably like a very light pine colour if u could help me
with this please just the colour is bit confusing I’ve
Looked at colour charts online an it looks like lightest oak

Maria duffy •

Reply to Maria duffy:

Hello Maria,

Thank you for getting in touch with your question, colour matching is a common request, and one sadly that is not always easy to get right. The application of a product to any wood is so influence by the type, age and condition of the wood it can be difficult to achieve the desired result, not impossible however. What you can use will also depend on what is currently applied to the wood and what condition that is in. perhaps if you would like to email me with some photos and details about if you are sanding back to bare wood or not, and if you know what the current finish is? I can advice further on your project.

If you get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page and once I have answered that you will be able to send me some photos also.

All the Best Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Hello,

I’m about to sand down my hallway and lounge floors in my 1930’s property and have hired out a floor sander and edger. I’m torn between two varnishes as both have positive and negative reviews on DIY sites.

The two varnishes in question are Ronseal Diamond Hard floor varnish and Manns Extra Tough floor varnish. Could you please let me know which one our of the two will provide a longer lasting, hard-wearing finish. I have two kids and frequently have family around, so the varnish needs to put up with these factors! Also I like to steam clean my floors, is this recommend with floor varnishes or will I be undoing all my hard work?

One last question, in-between varnish coats (after the varnish has dried) I need to key the area with a light sand, what grit do you recommend for this or is a manns finishing pad or denibber pad better for this?

Many thanks,
Nav

Nav •

Reply to Nav:

Good Afternoon Nav,

Its always difficult to know what is the best option to go for. With so many products on the market now it can be a mind field. If you do ever need any guidance we have a great team on hand to help 7 days a week, just give us a call or message via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.

The Manns and Ronseal products are both very good, if I had to pick one I would probably go for the Manns as I would expect this to be that little bit more durable. It also has the benefit of having sample sizes available to allow you to try test areas first.

For denibbing between coats I would recommend the higher grit Woodleys Flexible Sanding Pads (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/woodleys-flexible-sanding-pads) you only need to lightly go over the first coat with the pad, and then wipe down with a damp cloth before application of the second coat. A thrid coat is also and option if you want a little more shine and it can also add durability.

I hope that helps.

Kind regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Hello. I have an parquet floor. People delivering new washing machine dragged it in and have left tracks down the legnth of the kitchen. I think just the varnish has come off, not scraped the actual wood. How do we fix this?

Farah •

Reply to Farah:

Good Morning,

How frustrating! The above blog gives some hints and tips on blending varnish patch repairs. Its fair to say that patch repairing varnish is not an easy thing to do and you will perhaps still see some join marks. However resealing to prevent moisture ingress is vital as any moisture that is able to get into the wood or under the varnish will cause it to lift and flake.

For further advice please feel free to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.

Kind regards Samantha

Samantha Taylor •

I put Ronseal diamond hard floor varnish on my kitchen oak floor after sanding off the original 20 year old finish. I noticed black marks appearing last Spring that were clearly shoe prints. They would not wipe off but had gone through and stained the wood black – only hard sanding would get rid of them. This has just happened again and I now realize that the marks are due to residue of lawn weed and feed products on the shoes – I suspect the ferrous sulphate part which is the mosskiller.

This has not happened in my hall which still has the old varnish.

This is so bad you can actually see a track where I have walked across the floor with the shoe print clearly identifiable. Have you come across this ? I can find nothing on the web

Colin David Smith •

Reply to Colin David Smith:

Good Morning Colin,

My apologies for the delay in getting back to you, this is not something that I have come across before, however the chemicals in garden products such as weedkiller can be strong and damaging to many surfaces and finishes as well as plants and wildlife.

I do not know of a way to rectify this I am afraid and suspect it might mean sanding back and starting again. Please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page if you have any questions.

All the Best Samantha

Samantha Taylor •

Hi
I hopping to sand and revarnish a wood floor in sections because of furniture issues do you think it is possible to “blend “ the varnish from the 2 sections that are done at different times or will I be left with a visible line.? Can you recommend a type of varnish best for this ?
Many thanks
Paul

Pnugent •
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