How to Varnish a Wooden Floor?

|Tim Hagger

Wood is beautiful, natural and non-toxic. No wonder people love wooden floors so much, whether it’s top-quality modern solid wood products or beautiful old hardwood floorboards.

Wood is easier to keep clean than carpeting, is much less welcoming to house mites and dust – great if you suffer from allergies – and these days there are plenty of sustainable, environmentally friendly options available, with wood cut from guaranteed sustainable forests and certified by the Forest Stewardship Council.

So how do you keep your stunning, warm, welcoming wood flooring in perfect condition? We get a lot of enquiries about how to varnish a wooden floor, so here’s some sensible guidance for our customers. As usual, if you have any questions, feel free to contact us, or have a look on our interior floor varnish page for more information. We have a team of wood-obsessed experts on hand to help!

Herringbone parquet flooring showing the contrast between varnished and bare wood

Floor varnish in use. Photo credit to: Chris RubberDragon

Varnishing a wooden floor – About polyurethane varnish

First, you need to decide on your varnish. Do you need an oil-based, solvent-based or water-based varnish?

  • Oil-based polyurethanes, although easier to apply, are now rarely used as they tend to add a lot of colour to the wood, can take an age to fully cure, potentially weeks, and have a short shelf life. Two or three coats usually do the trick. But bear in mind they’re smellier than water-based products, prone to brush marks and take a lot longer to dry than the alternative solvent-based or water-based varnishes.
  • Water-based polyurethanes dry faster and smell less, but they can raise the wood’s grain slightly on some softwoods. This isn’t a problem as the process of denibbing between coats will help to keep the final finish smooth. Water-based polyurethanes don’t go well over oil-based wood stains but work well over solvent-based wood stains and white-spirit-based stains. Most pros use water-based varnishes because they have virtually no smell.
  • Solvent-based polyurethanes are very quick to dry but are also the most smelly due to their high VOC (volatile organic compound) content. Solvent-based varnishes are normally only used where very tough, fast curing is called for, such as bar tops, sports halls and nightclubs. Using solvent-based stains is difficult with solvent-based PU floor finishes because of the speed they dry. Solvent-based varnishes can be troublesome for novices who have no experience. They are probably better off sticking with water-based varnishes which are easier to use and give comparable results.

5 top tips for using polyurethanes

  1. You should always apply varnish to bare wood. In theory, you should be able to varnish over an existing varnish but there is always a possibility that the 2 types of varnish may react with each other. If this is to be attempted, always do a test area, wait for 24 hours, then do a thumbnail scratch test to ensure that the new varnish has adhered or bonded to the old coat.
  2. Never, ever shake a container of polyurethane varnish, whether it’s oil, solvent or water-based. Shaking it will fill it with air bubbles, which will stick around when you use the product. Stir it gently between each coat instead.
  3. Always work in a clean, dust-free, well-ventilated area. If you’re varnishing a floor, open the windows and doors but try to keep draughts to a minimum in case they blow dust on your finish.
  4. You can thin oil-based polyurethanes with mineral spirits, but it isn’t usually necessary. They’re almost always fine used straight from the tin.
  5. When applying the varnish, whether oil, solvent or water-based, it helps to study the finish from different angles. Different amounts of light and the direction of the light itself make it easier to spot places where you’ve over-brushed, left brush marks, or missed bits altogether.
Glossy refinished hardwood floor in an ornate hall with decorative columns

Beautifully refinished hardwood floor – from oleklejbzon.com

How to apply oil-based polyurethane varnishes?

Use a fine-bristled brush, clean cloth or foam brush – beware of cheap brushes, which often leave unsightly hairs behind as well as making obvious brush strokes.

Brush the varnish in the same direction as the grain and don’t put it on too thickly. Don’t brush the same area again and again. And use long brush strokes, which help get rid of any bubbles in the product. Any tiny bubbles left at the end of the process should disappear quickly. Sand lightly (denib) in between coats.

How to apply water-based polyurethane varnishes?

Apply a very thin coat with a fine brush or foam pad. Work in the same direction as the wood grain. To avoid raising the grain, don’t apply too much at once – it’s much better to be safe than sorry, so take it easy. The first coat ought to dry in a couple of hours and while you don’t have to lightly sand (denib) between coats, professionals usually do, as it can help to achieve a smoother finish. If using a primer, 2 coats of water-based lacquer are usually enough; if not using a primer, then 3 coats may be necessary to offer optimum protection.

How to apply solvent-based polyurethane varnishes?

Apply a thin coat with a fine brush or microfibre roller. Work in the same direction as the wood grain. Keep the room well ventilated at all times by opening doors and windows and be aware of the quick drying times. As with water-based varnishes, if using a primer, 2 coats of solvent-based lacquer are usually enough; if not using a primer, then 3 coats may be necessary to offer optimum protection.

Wooden floor preparation in 8 steps

  1. The better you clean the room before starting, the better the eventual finish will be. Dust and dirt can stop sandpaper being as effective as it should be and also make an awful mess of your varnish if you don’t do everything you can to keep things spotless. Some people even hoover the walls and ceiling to make 100% sure there’s minimal dust.
  2. Hire a special floor edging sander and you’ll easily be able to sand right up to the edges of the floor without having to get down on your hands and knees and DIY the fiddly bits.
  3. Fill in any gaps in the floorboards if you need to or want to.
  4. Depending on the condition of the floor, you may need to start sanding with coarser sandpaper. Start at one end of the room and sand with the grain. Use less coarse sandpaper, usually around a 120- to 150-grit abrasive, to get a lovely, smooth finish.
  5. Safety first… always unplug the sander when you need to change the paper.
  6. Let the dust settle, then vacuum thoroughly to get rid of every last speck. Then wipe the surface clean with a cloth and white spirit or a damp (NOT wet!) mop and let it dry thoroughly.
  7. Whether you’re using a brush, cloth or pad, apply two to three coats of varnish with adequate drying time in between – check the tin for the manufacturer’s recommendations. If it’s not fully dry, it will feel sticky. Make sure you apply the product in small areas of 4–5 square feet at a time.
  8. Don’t walk on the floor for at least a day after you’ve finished the job.

Useful videos about varnishing wooden floors

Sometimes a video is the best way to get to grips with exactly what to do. Here are several excellent videos about varnishing wood floors:

Plus here’s a great Podcast from Sadolin: A step by step guide to great looking wooden floors.

Recommended polyurethane varnishes for wooden floor maintenance

We stock a range of top-quality polyurethane interior varnish products, all perfect for floors and each with its own special features. Feel free to browse them and don’t hesitate to contact us if you’d like help making exactly the right choice for your project.

Need help varnishing your wooden floor?

For more information about wooden floor varnish and its uses, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great blogs that talk about wood varnishes

32 comments

Hi,

Thanks for this useful article. I’d like to sand, stain and varnish the floors in my first floor flat. But I’m worried about the stain and the varnish dripping through to the floor below and spoiling their ceiling. How do I avoid that?

Gisella

Gisella •

Reply to Gisella:

Good Afternoon Gisella,

Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Worry not, I do not think this is going to be an issue for you. There is likely to be a series of materials between you and your neighbours ceiling, including insulation. And whilst application does not need to be particularly thin, you are not going to be pouring the product directly on to the floor.

Using a tray and application pad system will give you good control over the product and spreading it across you floor evenly and with out drips.

We do have some great videos on our You Tube Channel >>> https://www.youtube.com/user/WoodFinishesDirect with hints and tips for preparation and applications. Or you can get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.

Kind regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Hi – I’ve applied osmo raw on my oak parquet floor and am happy with the colour it’s produced. I’m not sure whether the second coat should be another coat of raw or the normal osmo Matt clear? I’ve got both and have read advice saying both can be used but not sure if the raw will lighten it further or risk some white residue remaining. Thanks for any help.

James •

Reply to James:

Good Afternoon James,

The best and only way to tell for sure is with test areas. I would always recommend full test areas before application. This should include the preparation and all coats of products to be used. This is because the wood type age and condition will all have an impact on the result.

Especially on parquet which can be a difficult floor type to prepare well. I would recommend two coats of the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil-raw-3044) over one coat of the Raw and one coat of the Clear Osmo Polyx Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil) as the clear is likely to either darken the result or yellow and possibly high light the white in the first coat.

It is possible that you will get a slight white appearance, the best thing to do is try a test area of both option and see which result you prefer.

If you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.

Kind regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Hi,
I have dark parquet flooring and it has several scruff marks all over (there is no other damage to the floor – just very small dents which are barely noticeable). I have tried everything to remove the marks (vinegar, wall eraser, olive oil mixed with vinegar, toothpaste) – literally everything and the marks are still there.
I have tested sanding the marks and they have come off but also has the varnish and the finishing.
Do you think it’s a good idea to keep the sanding and varnish the floor? If so, what products do you recommend?
I have spent a lot of time researching and I cannot decide if it’s best to use an oil or water based varnish. Any advice you can provide will be more than welcome!

Kelly •

Reply to Kelly:

Hello Kelly,

Thank you for getting in touch with your question. How frustrating, it sounds like you have tried a few things to improve the overall look. Another thing you can do for small dents is to iron the area. This will only work with dents and not gauges and on bare wood. Put a couple of drop of water on the area affected and then place a cloth over the wood, hold the iron on the area, the steam will expand the wood and reduce the dent.

For the areas that you have sanded and removed the varnish, you can patch repair, however you are likely to see join marks and our best advice for an even all over result will be to sand back the whole floor and start again. If you need some advice on this please feel free to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page or give us a call and one of our advisers will be happy to help.

Kind regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Hi. I had my kitchen floorboards done with a water based polyurethane. After 24 hrs I put mats down, and beneath the rubber backed ones the finish has turned milky. How can I fix this please?

Kathy Boladeras •

Reply to Kathy Boladeras:

Good Morning Kathy,

Although the finish was probably dry and ready to put into light use, the varnish will continue to cure over a period of days and weeks. Covering the finish will prevent this curing from taking place and it is not advisable to place rugs or covering on the surface for at least 7 days.

If you lift all covering this may allow the product to then go back to curing, if it does not match the rest of the finish after a period of time you may have to consider sanding back and re applying.

If you have any questions please feel free to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact)
page.

Kind regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

My varnish is peeling in spots. What is the best way to repair and what should I use?

Carole •

Reply to Carole:

Hello Carole,

Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. It very much depends on what we are talking about, floor, furniture or something else? And how extensive the damage is? If you are able to email me with some further details and photos of the effected areas I would be happy to advice further. You can email FAO Sam to wfd.advice@wood-finishes-direct.com.

All the Best Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •
1 2 3 4 Next »

Leave a comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.