How to Varnish a Wooden Floor?

|Tim Hagger

Wood is beautiful, natural and non-toxic. No wonder people love wooden floors so much, whether it’s top-quality modern solid wood products or beautiful old hardwood floorboards.

Wood is easier to keep clean than carpeting, is much less welcoming to house mites and dust – great if you suffer from allergies – and these days there are plenty of sustainable, environmentally friendly options available, with wood cut from guaranteed sustainable forests and certified by the Forest Stewardship Council.

So how do you keep your stunning, warm, welcoming wood flooring in perfect condition? We get a lot of enquiries about how to varnish a wooden floor, so here’s some sensible guidance for our customers. As usual, if you have any questions, feel free to contact us, or have a look on our interior floor varnish page for more information. We have a team of wood-obsessed experts on hand to help!

Herringbone parquet flooring showing the contrast between varnished and bare wood

Floor varnish in use. Photo credit to: Chris RubberDragon

Varnishing a wooden floor – About polyurethane varnish

First, you need to decide on your varnish. Do you need an oil-based, solvent-based or water-based varnish?

  • Oil-based polyurethanes, although easier to apply, are now rarely used as they tend to add a lot of colour to the wood, can take an age to fully cure, potentially weeks, and have a short shelf life. Two or three coats usually do the trick. But bear in mind they’re smellier than water-based products, prone to brush marks and take a lot longer to dry than the alternative solvent-based or water-based varnishes.
  • Water-based polyurethanes dry faster and smell less, but they can raise the wood’s grain slightly on some softwoods. This isn’t a problem as the process of denibbing between coats will help to keep the final finish smooth. Water-based polyurethanes don’t go well over oil-based wood stains but work well over solvent-based wood stains and white-spirit-based stains. Most pros use water-based varnishes because they have virtually no smell.
  • Solvent-based polyurethanes are very quick to dry but are also the most smelly due to their high VOC (volatile organic compound) content. Solvent-based varnishes are normally only used where very tough, fast curing is called for, such as bar tops, sports halls and nightclubs. Using solvent-based stains is difficult with solvent-based PU floor finishes because of the speed they dry. Solvent-based varnishes can be troublesome for novices who have no experience. They are probably better off sticking with water-based varnishes which are easier to use and give comparable results.

5 top tips for using polyurethanes

  1. You should always apply varnish to bare wood. In theory, you should be able to varnish over an existing varnish but there is always a possibility that the 2 types of varnish may react with each other. If this is to be attempted, always do a test area, wait for 24 hours, then do a thumbnail scratch test to ensure that the new varnish has adhered or bonded to the old coat.
  2. Never, ever shake a container of polyurethane varnish, whether it’s oil, solvent or water-based. Shaking it will fill it with air bubbles, which will stick around when you use the product. Stir it gently between each coat instead.
  3. Always work in a clean, dust-free, well-ventilated area. If you’re varnishing a floor, open the windows and doors but try to keep draughts to a minimum in case they blow dust on your finish.
  4. You can thin oil-based polyurethanes with mineral spirits, but it isn’t usually necessary. They’re almost always fine used straight from the tin.
  5. When applying the varnish, whether oil, solvent or water-based, it helps to study the finish from different angles. Different amounts of light and the direction of the light itself make it easier to spot places where you’ve over-brushed, left brush marks, or missed bits altogether.
Glossy refinished hardwood floor in an ornate hall with decorative columns

Beautifully refinished hardwood floor – from oleklejbzon.com

How to apply oil-based polyurethane varnishes?

Use a fine-bristled brush, clean cloth or foam brush – beware of cheap brushes, which often leave unsightly hairs behind as well as making obvious brush strokes.

Brush the varnish in the same direction as the grain and don’t put it on too thickly. Don’t brush the same area again and again. And use long brush strokes, which help get rid of any bubbles in the product. Any tiny bubbles left at the end of the process should disappear quickly. Sand lightly (denib) in between coats.

How to apply water-based polyurethane varnishes?

Apply a very thin coat with a fine brush or foam pad. Work in the same direction as the wood grain. To avoid raising the grain, don’t apply too much at once – it’s much better to be safe than sorry, so take it easy. The first coat ought to dry in a couple of hours and while you don’t have to lightly sand (denib) between coats, professionals usually do, as it can help to achieve a smoother finish. If using a primer, 2 coats of water-based lacquer are usually enough; if not using a primer, then 3 coats may be necessary to offer optimum protection.

How to apply solvent-based polyurethane varnishes?

Apply a thin coat with a fine brush or microfibre roller. Work in the same direction as the wood grain. Keep the room well ventilated at all times by opening doors and windows and be aware of the quick drying times. As with water-based varnishes, if using a primer, 2 coats of solvent-based lacquer are usually enough; if not using a primer, then 3 coats may be necessary to offer optimum protection.

Wooden floor preparation in 8 steps

  1. The better you clean the room before starting, the better the eventual finish will be. Dust and dirt can stop sandpaper being as effective as it should be and also make an awful mess of your varnish if you don’t do everything you can to keep things spotless. Some people even hoover the walls and ceiling to make 100% sure there’s minimal dust.
  2. Hire a special floor edging sander and you’ll easily be able to sand right up to the edges of the floor without having to get down on your hands and knees and DIY the fiddly bits.
  3. Fill in any gaps in the floorboards if you need to or want to.
  4. Depending on the condition of the floor, you may need to start sanding with coarser sandpaper. Start at one end of the room and sand with the grain. Use less coarse sandpaper, usually around a 120- to 150-grit abrasive, to get a lovely, smooth finish.
  5. Safety first… always unplug the sander when you need to change the paper.
  6. Let the dust settle, then vacuum thoroughly to get rid of every last speck. Then wipe the surface clean with a cloth and white spirit or a damp (NOT wet!) mop and let it dry thoroughly.
  7. Whether you’re using a brush, cloth or pad, apply two to three coats of varnish with adequate drying time in between – check the tin for the manufacturer’s recommendations. If it’s not fully dry, it will feel sticky. Make sure you apply the product in small areas of 4–5 square feet at a time.
  8. Don’t walk on the floor for at least a day after you’ve finished the job.

Useful videos about varnishing wooden floors

Sometimes a video is the best way to get to grips with exactly what to do. Here are several excellent videos about varnishing wood floors:

Plus here’s a great Podcast from Sadolin: A step by step guide to great looking wooden floors.

Recommended polyurethane varnishes for wooden floor maintenance

We stock a range of top-quality polyurethane interior varnish products, all perfect for floors and each with its own special features. Feel free to browse them and don’t hesitate to contact us if you’d like help making exactly the right choice for your project.

Need help varnishing your wooden floor?

For more information about wooden floor varnish and its uses, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great blogs that talk about wood varnishes

32 comments

Is it hard to varnish your own floor? Or should I get it done my someone.

Januce •

Reply to Januce:

Hello Januce,

Have a watch of some of the videos on our YouTube Channel (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Umn0CgJpdSg), they will give you an idea of how to apply varnish and if you have any questions then feel free to let me know.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

We have just stained our wooden floor and put three coats of varnish on it.
it looks lovely but in parts it is still sticky. It has been a week now is this normal?

margaret •

Reply to margaret:

Hello Margaret,

This would not be expected, are you able to send me any photos of the effected area and the whole floor area and I would be happy to take a look for you. Please include a description of the type of wood, preparation process, and how you applied the product. And any other information that you think is relevant and I will see if there is anything I can advice to help.

Kind Regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Of course the one answer I get is trying to sell me something.

Steve Gasper •

I have been asked to varnish the floor in a museum. I have 1200 square ft of 100 year old oak floor with plenty of other finish on it. My problem is they don’t want to lose any of its color so it cant be sanded to bare wood. they just want a coating over it to protect it as is. Can I do this? any tips would be great. Thanks Steve Gasper

Steve Gasper •

Reply to Steve Gasper:

Hello Steve,

It’s well worth you having a chat with one of our floor finishing experts, who will be able to advise you on the best way to achieve the finish you want on that kind of area. Also we need to know what is currently on the floor. Use the contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) form to provide further details and one of our experts will be in touch to offer advice.

All the Best Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi, we’ve just converted our loft , the floor boards
Are brand new what would be the best finish to go for!
Thanks Andy

Andy •

Reply to Andy:

Hello Andy,

This would depend on the type of finish you are looking to achieve but as a starting point, Hard Wax Oils (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil) are very popular, because of their natural finish. They are easy to apply, maintain and patch repair if needed. There is also a tint range that will colour and protect in one treatment Fiddes Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-tints). Application of these oils needs to be very thin. Please feel free to ask if you have any further questions.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

We have recently taken up the carpets in the living room of our Victorian terrace. We have replaced damaged boards with some from upstairs and shuffled them all up to elimiate big gaps. We now plan to sand the boards and then finish the floor, but I’m not clear on what the normal/“best” finish is… hoping you can give me some recommendations!

Would you generally recommend varnish as a finish rather than oil? I have read some articles that say varnishes that contain polyurethanes tend to give the wood an orange, ‘plasticky’ appearance, but I’m not sure that can always be the case! What about wax – is that harder work to apply?

Really grateful for any tips you can give.

Chris

Chris •
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