Wood is beautiful, natural and non-toxic. No wonder people love wooden floors so much, whether it’s top-quality modern solid wood products or beautiful old hardwood floorboards.
Wood is easier to keep clean than carpeting, is much less welcoming to house mites and dust – great if you suffer from allergies – and these days there are plenty of sustainable, environmentally friendly options available, with wood cut from guaranteed sustainable forests and certified by the Forest Stewardship Council.
So how do you keep your stunning, warm, welcoming wood flooring in perfect condition? We get a lot of enquiries about how to varnish a wooden floor, so here’s some sensible guidance for our customers. As usual, if you have any questions, feel free to contact us, or have a look on our interior floor varnish page for more information. We have a team of wood-obsessed experts on hand to help!
Floor varnish in use. Photo credit to: Chris RubberDragon
Varnishing a wooden floor – About polyurethane varnish
First, you need to decide on your varnish. Do you need an oil-based, solvent-based or water-based varnish?
- Oil-based polyurethanes, although easier to apply, are now rarely used as they tend to add a lot of colour to the wood, can take an age to fully cure, potentially weeks, and have a short shelf life. Two or three coats usually do the trick. But bear in mind they’re smellier than water-based products, prone to brush marks and take a lot longer to dry than the alternative solvent-based or water-based varnishes.
- Water-based polyurethanes dry faster and smell less, but they can raise the wood’s grain slightly on some softwoods. This isn’t a problem as the process of denibbing between coats will help to keep the final finish smooth. Water-based polyurethanes don’t go well over oil-based wood stains but work well over solvent-based wood stains and white-spirit-based stains. Most pros use water-based varnishes because they have virtually no smell.
- Solvent-based polyurethanes are very quick to dry but are also the most smelly due to their high VOC (volatile organic compound) content. Solvent-based varnishes are normally only used where very tough, fast curing is called for, such as bar tops, sports halls and nightclubs. Using solvent-based stains is difficult with solvent-based PU floor finishes because of the speed they dry. Solvent-based varnishes can be troublesome for novices who have no experience. They are probably better off sticking with water-based varnishes which are easier to use and give comparable results.
5 top tips for using polyurethanes
- You should always apply varnish to bare wood. In theory, you should be able to varnish over an existing varnish but there is always a possibility that the 2 types of varnish may react with each other. If this is to be attempted, always do a test area, wait for 24 hours, then do a thumbnail scratch test to ensure that the new varnish has adhered or bonded to the old coat.
- Never, ever shake a container of polyurethane varnish, whether it’s oil, solvent or water-based. Shaking it will fill it with air bubbles, which will stick around when you use the product. Stir it gently between each coat instead.
- Always work in a clean, dust-free, well-ventilated area. If you’re varnishing a floor, open the windows and doors but try to keep draughts to a minimum in case they blow dust on your finish.
- You can thin oil-based polyurethanes with mineral spirits, but it isn’t usually necessary. They’re almost always fine used straight from the tin.
- When applying the varnish, whether oil, solvent or water-based, it helps to study the finish from different angles. Different amounts of light and the direction of the light itself make it easier to spot places where you’ve over-brushed, left brush marks, or missed bits altogether.
Beautifully refinished hardwood floor – from oleklejbzon.com
How to apply oil-based polyurethane varnishes?
Use a fine-bristled brush, clean cloth or foam brush – beware of cheap brushes, which often leave unsightly hairs behind as well as making obvious brush strokes.
Brush the varnish in the same direction as the grain and don’t put it on too thickly. Don’t brush the same area again and again. And use long brush strokes, which help get rid of any bubbles in the product. Any tiny bubbles left at the end of the process should disappear quickly. Sand lightly (denib) in between coats.
How to apply water-based polyurethane varnishes?
Apply a very thin coat with a fine brush or foam pad. Work in the same direction as the wood grain. To avoid raising the grain, don’t apply too much at once – it’s much better to be safe than sorry, so take it easy. The first coat ought to dry in a couple of hours and while you don’t have to lightly sand (denib) between coats, professionals usually do, as it can help to achieve a smoother finish. If using a primer, 2 coats of water-based lacquer are usually enough; if not using a primer, then 3 coats may be necessary to offer optimum protection.
How to apply solvent-based polyurethane varnishes?
Apply a thin coat with a fine brush or microfibre roller. Work in the same direction as the wood grain. Keep the room well ventilated at all times by opening doors and windows and be aware of the quick drying times. As with water-based varnishes, if using a primer, 2 coats of solvent-based lacquer are usually enough; if not using a primer, then 3 coats may be necessary to offer optimum protection.
Wooden floor preparation in 8 steps
- The better you clean the room before starting, the better the eventual finish will be. Dust and dirt can stop sandpaper being as effective as it should be and also make an awful mess of your varnish if you don’t do everything you can to keep things spotless. Some people even hoover the walls and ceiling to make 100% sure there’s minimal dust.
- Hire a special floor edging sander and you’ll easily be able to sand right up to the edges of the floor without having to get down on your hands and knees and DIY the fiddly bits.
- Fill in any gaps in the floorboards if you need to or want to.
- Depending on the condition of the floor, you may need to start sanding with coarser sandpaper. Start at one end of the room and sand with the grain. Use less coarse sandpaper, usually around a 120- to 150-grit abrasive, to get a lovely, smooth finish.
- Safety first… always unplug the sander when you need to change the paper.
- Let the dust settle, then vacuum thoroughly to get rid of every last speck. Then wipe the surface clean with a cloth and white spirit or a damp (NOT wet!) mop and let it dry thoroughly.
- Whether you’re using a brush, cloth or pad, apply two to three coats of varnish with adequate drying time in between – check the tin for the manufacturer’s recommendations. If it’s not fully dry, it will feel sticky. Make sure you apply the product in small areas of 4–5 square feet at a time.
- Don’t walk on the floor for at least a day after you’ve finished the job.
Useful videos about varnishing wooden floors
Sometimes a video is the best way to get to grips with exactly what to do. Here are several excellent videos about varnishing wood floors:
Plus here’s a great Podcast from Sadolin: A step by step guide to great looking wooden floors.
Recommended polyurethane varnishes for wooden floor maintenance
We stock a range of top-quality polyurethane interior varnish products, all perfect for floors and each with its own special features. Feel free to browse them and don’t hesitate to contact us if you’d like help making exactly the right choice for your project.
Need help varnishing your wooden floor?
For more information about wooden floor varnish and its uses, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
32 comments
We have wooden floors and in some spots we have water damage and the wood needs to be sanded, stained and varnished. What method is best for partially repairing the floor
Reply to Bev Schaffter:
Good Morning Bev,
Apologies for the delay in getting back to you, we do actually have a blog about patch repairing Varnished finishes. Wood Flooring Varnish Repair (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/blogs/advice/wood-flooring-varnish-repair) this will help with your enquiry hopefully.
Repairing varnish is not easy I won’t lie but with a care and preparation you can get a reasonable finish. Feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi
I’ve just sanded and revarnished my wooden floor, 2 coats of varnish and then a clear top coat. The floor now looks very dull and you can every fleck of footprints etc, is there anything I can do. It’s not the finish I was hoping for
Thank ou
Reply to Sharon Westwood:
Hello Sharon,
I am sorry to hear that you have had a disappointing experience with your finish. Are you able to email me some details of the products that you have used, your method of application, and the type of wood you are applying to. Also you can send some photos I will be happy to take a look.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi is it possible to have a varnish with a grey greyish colour to it please?
Our lounge floor was sanded, grey wash applied and then varnished, but it does not have enough colour . Stains also are coming. Please can you advise?
Many thanks
Jill
Reply to Jill:
Good Morning Jill,
Thank you for your enquiry. As the floor is varnished you will only be able to have varnish applied over the top and you will need to ensure the old and new treatment are compatible with a test area first.
Alternatively you can sand back to bare wood and look at an alternative product. The Blanchon Oceanic Coloured Floor Varnish. This one gives an opaque finish and has a grey in its colour range.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let let me know.
Kind Regards Samantha.
We have a floor company came and did sanding and vanish for our shop. However we discovered that it is not possible to clean the floor after the work is done. Foot prints on the floor can not be wiped out with damp cloth even I added wood cleaning product to the cloth. What are the possible reasons for it? I suspect there was not even coating applied.
Reply to Lily:
Hello Lily,
I am sorry to hear of your disappointing experience with the floor finishing company. I would be happy to take a look at some photos if you would like to send some in to wood@finishes.direct.
My advice would be to get back in touch with the company that you used however and speak to them about what the current finish is and explain the difficulties that you are having with marks and cleaning.
Kind Regards Samantha.
We had our floors done by someone recommended to us. Mostly, existing hardwood was sanded, stained and then varnished with semi-gloss. On the second floor hallway, we had them put in new hardwood because of the extent of the damage on the existing hardwood. We liked the job but there were a few raised bumps in some areas on the second floor. The guys came and buffed the 2nd floor and some other areas and reapplied the same varnish (what was leftover in the bucket). Unfortunately, the buffed areas with a 4th coat of varnish now have a matt finished. How is this possible. The explanation by the floor guys doesn’t make sense to me. Thanks.
Reply to Renee:
Hello Renee,
Are you able to send me some photos of the effected areas, some close shots and some of the whole floor and include a description of the product used and the number of coats and application method. You can email this to wood@finishes.direct and I will happily take a look. I can’t guarantee an answer but we have a number of experts with in the company and we will be happy to see what we can do.
All the Best Samantha