Of all the types of flooring available, wood with the perfect finish is still the most popular. And oak floorboards are gorgeous as well as fashionable. But pine wood flooring is another strong contender in the beauty stakes, a softwood that’s been used to make floorboards for centuries and a feature of many old homes across Britain.
Pine Log Rounds – from antiquewoodnews.com
Vintage Pine Floorboards
We’ve taken several long, detailed looks at oak flooring, furniture and doors. Now it’s time to explore the wonderful world of pine. If you have a pine floor that needs attention, or you’ve been tasked with getting one in apple-pie order for someone else, here’s everything you need to know.
Types of pine
Pine, also sometimes called redwood, is cheaper and more common than traditional hardwoods, ranging from almost white through various yellow shades to a deep, rich red. For a softwood, it’s often remarkably resilient and long-lasting, especially in the context of well-looked-after pine floors.
Pinus is the species we see most in UK and EU plantations. It’s useful for all sorts of utility work, a common wood for beams, flooring and structural purposes. But that’s just the start of it. There are a whole load of different types of pine trees found in the wild, so many in fact that the Wood Database website’s impressively long list is far too detailed to repeat here.
If you’re interested in the similarities and differences between soft pines and hard pines, and those within each group, you can’t beat the Wood Database pine page, an excellent resource.
Horses for courses – The pine flooring aesthetic
There’s a variety of flooring ideas and opinions concerning keeping wooden floors looking good. Some concerns involve floor maintenance, as some floors require little in the way of maintenance, while others require plenty of elbow grease and attention. And the choice is often a matter of aesthetics.
One of the best things about wood flooring is that it changes, going through all sorts of fascinating stages over time, depending on its type and location, with an equally wide range of end results. And every stage of the ageing process has its own beauty.
You might love the hundred-year-old (or much older) patina your old pine boards have acquired through generations of wear. It might be stained and dirty, uneven and bent, sometimes more or less black. But to you it’s perfect – a living piece of history marking decades or even centuries of human use. And that’s fine. If it has lasted this long in one piece, it might well last a great deal longer without falling apart on you.
Eastern White Pine Cabin Interior
Your floor might be reasonably worn, partway between new and aged. You might adore the effect – the real shabby chic ideal – or you may prefer to get rid of the muck and repair any damage, giving it a whole new lease of life as well as a smooth, contemporary look.
A brand-new pine floor, on the other hand, can look pretty raw. The paler it is, the newer and less settled-in it looks. You might want to use a wood dye to create a subtler, less in-your-face effect, calming the brightness down a bit, and if it hasn’t already been protected, you’ll want to add a finishing oil or good-quality varnish.
How pine changes over time
The colour is one thing. The condition of old pine floors is another. Old boards can cup or arch over time, each board curling up at the edges, which means when you try to sand them you tend to get a thin sanded strip down the middle of each board at the high point, which widens on each pass of the sander as the boards are slowly levelled by the sanding process.
When you sand old pine boards back to the wood, they can look very pale, even colourless. But don’t worry. The minute you apply a clear wood finishing product like an oil or varnish, that warm, attractive natural golden colour will come flooding through.
Testing the colour of your floorboards before finishing them
This change in colour is so dramatic that it’s usually best to test how it’ll look finished before choosing an oil or varnish. Luckily it’s easy. All you do is rub the surface with a damp – not wet – cloth and you get the exact same effect as oiling or varnishing – the colour suddenly shines through. Once you know what’s what, you can choose your finish: either something to enhance the natural colour or a colourless product.
What if you want to get rid of that bright orange/gold colour?
Orange or golden pine isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. And that’s the effect you can get from a standard clear oil or varnish – as time passes it can turn a deeper orange/gold, even a nasty brown. If your pine floor has gone a funny colour, you can always sand the old finish off and replace it with a product that won’t change colour as it ages.
If you’re looking to retain the natural appearance of freshly sanded boards, pine or oak, Osmo Polyx Oil Raw and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are both great products for defusing and countering the gold/orange colour you sometimes get.
- Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) is made with natural oils and waxes, gives excellent protection and durability and is specifically formulated to retain the ‘natural’ look of wood. It counteracts the damp-looking darkening effect and grain enhancement you typically get with standard clear oils or varnishes.
- Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural also keeps wood looking as natural and unaltered in colour as possible and dries to a clear, satin-matt finish. It’s perfect for light-coloured woods like pine, spruce and oak.
Osmo Polyx Oil
Pine wood floor refinishing – Varnish or oil?
What’s best, an oil or a varnish? The protective qualities are much the same. But oil and varnish come with different types of maintenance, and to a great extent your choice depends on the amount of wear and tear the floor receives.
- Using a wooden floor varnish tends to provide better durability and less maintenance, but you’ll need to re-sand the entire floor back to bare wood when the varnish eventually gets damaged and worn. How long this takes depends on the type and quality of the varnish and how much wear your floor is subjected to. It could be every year if you have pets, visitors and kids running in and out all the time. It could be five years or more if your home life is a lot quieter or you’ve covered the floor with rugs.
- Using a wooden floor oil, on the other hand, requires maintenance, usually every couple of years, but it won’t flake, crack or peel off. It looks better than varnish as it begins to wear and is very easy to patch repair if it becomes worn in specific areas, unlike varnish. When an oiled floor starts to look like it’s past its best, simply clean with a suitable floor cleaner to remove any marks, scuffs or stains, then reapply a thin coat of oil, and “Voilà!” it’s just like new again. Even bad scuffs, stains, marks and light scratches can be fixed by lightly sanding the area and reapplying a fresh coat of oil.
A tough varnish, by the way, won’t make the flooring itself hard. If you drop something heavy on the floor, the wood will still dent even though the varnish stays intact.
We have put together this handy video helping you to understand the key difference between a varnish and oil, as well as application techniques.
Need help with your pine floorboards?
For more information about interior floor finishes and treatments, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
217 comments
Reply to Dawn:
Hello Dawn,
Thank you for your enquiry. You could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening). This is designed to leave the floor looking and feeling as natural as possible. A test area should be done however to ensure this is what you are looking for and is suitable for your floor.
If you think that this will not be pale enough, then the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-colour-foundation) in White is also an option. These oils require very thin application to the floor. And test areas are important.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions I am happy to help.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Last autumn I undertook to sand down all my pine furniture, including dining room table and several sideboards. The table and units were 30 plus years old. The results from my efforts were excellent. I re varnished them all with Ronseal clear interior varnish. However as pine becomes yellow with age and eventually the dreaded orange, I wish to avoid this. Can I recoat the units using a Fiddes or Osmo wax to arrest further yellowing? Last week I was given a 40 year old TV/hifi unit in pine that was destined for the tip. After many hours of sanding it is restored. I now wish to seal this but prevent yellowing. Recommendations, please?
Reply to John Barnett:
Hello John,
It is often the case with Pine that the natural tones of yellow and orange are pulled out through the clear treatment applied. To use the Fiddes or Osmo will require the removal of the varnish that is currently on the wood and the oil could possibly also bring out the orange tones that are in the pine. Test area should be done to see how it look and both oils are available in sample sizes.
Sometimes applying a slight tint can help and the Fiddes Tinted Oils (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-tints) are a good option. If you have a look at the products and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.
Kind regards Samantha.
We have an old pine floor in the kitchen which has been sanded and varnished twice, last time with something that was termed “diamond hard”. Four years later 1/3 of the kitchen floor is very worn, with little trace of the varnish. Rather than do it a third time, I’d rather use a natural wood polish or oil this time. Do I have to have the whole floor sanded again, which natural oil would you recommend, how would it be maintained, can it be given a wash with a wet mop ? If not how does one clean it ? (Its a busy kitchen with 5 children, 2 adults, 1 cat, and soon to be one dog). Any advice gratefully received!
Reply to Simon:
Hello Simon,
Thank you for your enquiry. I think it would be fair to say that a varnish will be a more durable finish an oil. In terms of maintenance however you may find that an oiled floor is easier. Re-applying varnish coats can result in uneven finishes or join lines and if the varnish is peeling and flaking then you may need to consider sanding back to re treat. With a Hard Wax Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil) you can simply clean the floor and then re-apply the oil when you feel it needs it. And with a large family and high traffic this could be annually, but thin application is all that is required.
So it’s down to which will suit your needs better, the longer lasting, durable varnish or the easier to maintain, natural looking oil finish. For oiled finishes, a pH-neutral cleaner is best and not a wet mop. So the Bona Wood Floor Spray Mop (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/bona-spray-mop) is a good option as it is suitable for both Varnished and Oiled floors.
Feel free to get in touch (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) if you have any further questions and always try a test area first.
Kind regards Samantha.
We are putting reclaimed pine boards throughout our upstairs (approx 1000 sq ft). They are reclaimed from an old barn that has been torn down. We love the rustic look that they will have but do not want the bright yellow or orange look to them. My question is two-fold: We plan to plane them to get off the initial ‘age’ look. then we are going to install them and was planning on putting a stain on them that we like. Here are my questions, if we use a varnish will it still cause them to yellow over time? Can we stain them and put the wood oil Osmo Polyx Oil you recommended?
Thanks and looking forward to doing this project!
Reply to Jamie:
Hello Jamie,
Thank you for your enquiry. There area few products that you could consider. Pine will often yellow or orange naturally with any clear product, applying some colour will help to avoid this. However, a full test area should be done with whatever product you choose to use.
Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-tints) are a colour and protection in one and if there is a colour that you like, this may suit your needs, and they are available in sample sizes so you can test it first.
The other alternative would be to use a Water-based Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-pine-wood-stain) to colour and then the Clear Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil) or Clear Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-floor-varnish) to protect.
Test areas are key however to ensure that you get the finish you want.
Kind regards Samantha.
Thank you. I see that you can get Mat Satin or Semi Gloss. Not sure which to pick. Is it possible to put a little tint into this?
Hi,
I’ve had someone do my pine wood floors and he said that Danish Oil is the best. I think it looks fine although my mum and sister think it’s a little too dark. Is it possible to lighten it? Also, I find that when I walk on these oiled floors they seem to get ‘dirty’ or rather show up dirt more so than a varnished floor. This guy has suggested that it would be possible to put on some epoxy to make it like glass and less textured when dirt from shows wouldn’t stick to it and show up so much. Any advice? Thank you.
Reply to daffy2012:
Hello,
Danish Oil is not something that we would necessarily recommend for floors. It simply isn’t durable enough to take the everyday wear and tear. It also doesn’t dry hard and this may be why you are getting dirt and marks on the surface.
You could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil), which will give a similar natural look and feel to the wood, but with much more durability. It will make the wood water repellent and easier to keep clean. It dries hard and is longer lasting than a Danish oil.
You are able to apply the Hard Wax Oil over the Danish Oil as long as the wood is not saturated. If you wipe the surface with some White Spirit (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-white-spirit) to clean and degrease. Carry out a test area to ensure the wood will take the oil and that you like the finish that will be achieved.
If you are looking to achieve the high gloss look then I believe you will need to remove the oil and use an alternative product. If there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know.
Kind Regards Samantha.