Of all the types of flooring available, wood with the perfect finish is still the most popular. And oak floorboards are gorgeous as well as fashionable. But pine wood flooring is another strong contender in the beauty stakes, a softwood that’s been used to make floorboards for centuries and a feature of many old homes across Britain.
Pine Log Rounds – from antiquewoodnews.com
Vintage Pine Floorboards
We’ve taken several long, detailed looks at oak flooring, furniture and doors. Now it’s time to explore the wonderful world of pine. If you have a pine floor that needs attention, or you’ve been tasked with getting one in apple-pie order for someone else, here’s everything you need to know.
Types of pine
Pine, also sometimes called redwood, is cheaper and more common than traditional hardwoods, ranging from almost white through various yellow shades to a deep, rich red. For a softwood, it’s often remarkably resilient and long-lasting, especially in the context of well-looked-after pine floors.
Pinus is the species we see most in UK and EU plantations. It’s useful for all sorts of utility work, a common wood for beams, flooring and structural purposes. But that’s just the start of it. There are a whole load of different types of pine trees found in the wild, so many in fact that the Wood Database website’s impressively long list is far too detailed to repeat here.
If you’re interested in the similarities and differences between soft pines and hard pines, and those within each group, you can’t beat the Wood Database pine page, an excellent resource.
Horses for courses – The pine flooring aesthetic
There’s a variety of flooring ideas and opinions concerning keeping wooden floors looking good. Some concerns involve floor maintenance, as some floors require little in the way of maintenance, while others require plenty of elbow grease and attention. And the choice is often a matter of aesthetics.
One of the best things about wood flooring is that it changes, going through all sorts of fascinating stages over time, depending on its type and location, with an equally wide range of end results. And every stage of the ageing process has its own beauty.
You might love the hundred-year-old (or much older) patina your old pine boards have acquired through generations of wear. It might be stained and dirty, uneven and bent, sometimes more or less black. But to you it’s perfect – a living piece of history marking decades or even centuries of human use. And that’s fine. If it has lasted this long in one piece, it might well last a great deal longer without falling apart on you.
Eastern White Pine Cabin Interior
Your floor might be reasonably worn, partway between new and aged. You might adore the effect – the real shabby chic ideal – or you may prefer to get rid of the muck and repair any damage, giving it a whole new lease of life as well as a smooth, contemporary look.
A brand-new pine floor, on the other hand, can look pretty raw. The paler it is, the newer and less settled-in it looks. You might want to use a wood dye to create a subtler, less in-your-face effect, calming the brightness down a bit, and if it hasn’t already been protected, you’ll want to add a finishing oil or good-quality varnish.
How pine changes over time
The colour is one thing. The condition of old pine floors is another. Old boards can cup or arch over time, each board curling up at the edges, which means when you try to sand them you tend to get a thin sanded strip down the middle of each board at the high point, which widens on each pass of the sander as the boards are slowly levelled by the sanding process.
When you sand old pine boards back to the wood, they can look very pale, even colourless. But don’t worry. The minute you apply a clear wood finishing product like an oil or varnish, that warm, attractive natural golden colour will come flooding through.
Testing the colour of your floorboards before finishing them
This change in colour is so dramatic that it’s usually best to test how it’ll look finished before choosing an oil or varnish. Luckily it’s easy. All you do is rub the surface with a damp – not wet – cloth and you get the exact same effect as oiling or varnishing – the colour suddenly shines through. Once you know what’s what, you can choose your finish: either something to enhance the natural colour or a colourless product.
What if you want to get rid of that bright orange/gold colour?
Orange or golden pine isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. And that’s the effect you can get from a standard clear oil or varnish – as time passes it can turn a deeper orange/gold, even a nasty brown. If your pine floor has gone a funny colour, you can always sand the old finish off and replace it with a product that won’t change colour as it ages.
If you’re looking to retain the natural appearance of freshly sanded boards, pine or oak, Osmo Polyx Oil Raw and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are both great products for defusing and countering the gold/orange colour you sometimes get.
- Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) is made with natural oils and waxes, gives excellent protection and durability and is specifically formulated to retain the ‘natural’ look of wood. It counteracts the damp-looking darkening effect and grain enhancement you typically get with standard clear oils or varnishes.
- Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural also keeps wood looking as natural and unaltered in colour as possible and dries to a clear, satin-matt finish. It’s perfect for light-coloured woods like pine, spruce and oak.
Osmo Polyx Oil
Pine wood floor refinishing – Varnish or oil?
What’s best, an oil or a varnish? The protective qualities are much the same. But oil and varnish come with different types of maintenance, and to a great extent your choice depends on the amount of wear and tear the floor receives.
- Using a wooden floor varnish tends to provide better durability and less maintenance, but you’ll need to re-sand the entire floor back to bare wood when the varnish eventually gets damaged and worn. How long this takes depends on the type and quality of the varnish and how much wear your floor is subjected to. It could be every year if you have pets, visitors and kids running in and out all the time. It could be five years or more if your home life is a lot quieter or you’ve covered the floor with rugs.
- Using a wooden floor oil, on the other hand, requires maintenance, usually every couple of years, but it won’t flake, crack or peel off. It looks better than varnish as it begins to wear and is very easy to patch repair if it becomes worn in specific areas, unlike varnish. When an oiled floor starts to look like it’s past its best, simply clean with a suitable floor cleaner to remove any marks, scuffs or stains, then reapply a thin coat of oil, and “Voilà!” it’s just like new again. Even bad scuffs, stains, marks and light scratches can be fixed by lightly sanding the area and reapplying a fresh coat of oil.
A tough varnish, by the way, won’t make the flooring itself hard. If you drop something heavy on the floor, the wood will still dent even though the varnish stays intact.
We have put together this handy video helping you to understand the key difference between a varnish and oil, as well as application techniques.
Need help with your pine floorboards?
For more information about interior floor finishes and treatments, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
217 comments
Reply to Oscar:
Hello Oscar,
Beeswax is suitable for use on floors but it is not something that we would necessarily recommend for a durable finish. If you wish to remove the wax we have a very good product call Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/stripper) this will take off any dirt and wax that remains on the floor.
For a more durable finish that still gives a natural look and feel to the wood you could have a look at the Holzol Floor Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/floor-oil). It is durable, hard wearing and easy to apply. It would be better to remove furniture from the room if possible so that you can treat evenly all over in one go but part application is possible, you may get a join line but if you have boards it advised to apply the full length of a board at a time and so if you are able to place furniture on one set of boards and treat the opposite boards then its feasible.
I hope that is of some help and if you have any other questions please feel free to let me know.
Kind regards Sam.
Hi
We have just sanded and treated the original pine floor boards in our 1900s maisonette. We treated them with matt Bona Mega waterborne finish. They looks great but we wanted to double check what we should use to clean them with.
Thank you
Graeme
Reply to Graeme:
Hello Graeme,
For the best product to use with the Bona I would recommend the Bona Spray Mop (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/bona-spray-mop). It is a versatile cleaner with a flexible head for easy manoeuvring. The cleaner that is included is perfect for use on a Bona finished floor and the refill is cost effective if you buy the 4 litre bottle of Bona Wood Floor Cleaner Refill (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/bona-wood-floor-cleaner-refill-4l), this can just top up the cartridge. Also the blue pad can be wash in the washing machine and reused up to 300 hundred times. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to ask.
All the Best Sam.
Perhaps I should mention that one of the rooms is a bathroom?
Here’s a coincidence…I put on a first coat this morning of the clear matt Osmo oil you recommended to me for the old, but dull, bedroom floorboards (elm?) in our French farmhouse. Already the floor is looking fantastic, giving the wood the “wet finger” look we were hoping for. So thanks so much for that.
While waiting for the oil to dry, I did a Google search for the best way to treat the brand new maritime pine floorboards that have just been laid in our newly-converted loft – and, yet again, found your site to be the most useful and informative.
So my question is: what is the best way to treat these new boards? I guess there’s not too much we can do about them being new, but how can we keep that “warm” wood feeling without making them shout “new” in a bright yellowish way?!
I wonder if you could help me please:
if whitewood pine or redwood pine better for internal flooring?
is redwood very orangey – if so can this be ‘whitewashed’ to produce a lighter coloured wood?
if wood is ‘whitewashed’ can it be varnished and/or oiled?
Which one is harder and less likely to be marked?
Which one has fewer knots?
If the whitewood or the redwood is treated, can it still be ‘whitewashed’ and
can it still be oiled or varnisehed?
Thank you ever so much.
Reply to Lucy Fenton:
Hello Lucy,
Thank you for your inquiry, it is fair to say that the White Pine is slightly stronger/more durable than a Red Pine as it is grown slower due to a colder climate. Having said that both Red Pine and White Pine are suitable for flooring.
For the finish I would recommend a test area with what ever product that you use, as the colour of the wood will have an effect on the finish, so for example clear on top of the Red pine could enhance the red tones in the wood. You are likely to get a better white washed effect on the White Pine and there are a couple of ways to go about this as shown within the Blog – Options 1-6.
If the wood is already treated then applying over the top becomes a little more complicated and would depend on the type of finish that it has. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions do not hesitate to contact me.
Kind regards Sam.