Everything You Need to Know About Pine Flooring

|Tim Hagger

Of all the types of flooring available, wood with the perfect finish is still the most popular. And oak floorboards are gorgeous as well as fashionable. But pine wood flooring is another strong contender in the beauty stakes, a softwood that’s been used to make floorboards for centuries and a feature of many old homes across Britain.

Flooring made from pine log rounds

Pine Log Rounds – from antiquewoodnews.com

Vintage pine floorboards

Vintage Pine Floorboards

We’ve taken several long, detailed looks at oak flooring, furniture and doors. Now it’s time to explore the wonderful world of pine. If you have a pine floor that needs attention, or you’ve been tasked with getting one in apple-pie order for someone else, here’s everything you need to know.

Types of pine

Pine, also sometimes called redwood, is cheaper and more common than traditional hardwoods, ranging from almost white through various yellow shades to a deep, rich red. For a softwood, it’s often remarkably resilient and long-lasting, especially in the context of well-looked-after pine floors.

Pinus is the species we see most in UK and EU plantations. It’s useful for all sorts of utility work, a common wood for beams, flooring and structural purposes. But that’s just the start of it. There are a whole load of different types of pine trees found in the wild, so many in fact that the Wood Database website’s impressively long list is far too detailed to repeat here.

If you’re interested in the similarities and differences between soft pines and hard pines, and those within each group, you can’t beat the Wood Database pine page, an excellent resource.

Horses for courses – The pine flooring aesthetic

There’s a variety of flooring ideas and opinions concerning keeping wooden floors looking good. Some concerns involve floor maintenance, as some floors require little in the way of maintenance, while others require plenty of elbow grease and attention. And the choice is often a matter of aesthetics.

One of the best things about wood flooring is that it changes, going through all sorts of fascinating stages over time, depending on its type and location, with an equally wide range of end results. And every stage of the ageing process has its own beauty.

You might love the hundred-year-old (or much older) patina your old pine boards have acquired through generations of wear. It might be stained and dirty, uneven and bent, sometimes more or less black. But to you it’s perfect – a living piece of history marking decades or even centuries of human use. And that’s fine. If it has lasted this long in one piece, it might well last a great deal longer without falling apart on you.

Eastern white pine cabin interior

Eastern White Pine Cabin Interior

Your floor might be reasonably worn, partway between new and aged. You might adore the effect – the real shabby chic ideal – or you may prefer to get rid of the muck and repair any damage, giving it a whole new lease of life as well as a smooth, contemporary look.

A brand-new pine floor, on the other hand, can look pretty raw. The paler it is, the newer and less settled-in it looks. You might want to use a wood dye to create a subtler, less in-your-face effect, calming the brightness down a bit, and if it hasn’t already been protected, you’ll want to add a finishing oil or good-quality varnish.

How pine changes over time

The colour is one thing. The condition of old pine floors is another. Old boards can cup or arch over time, each board curling up at the edges, which means when you try to sand them you tend to get a thin sanded strip down the middle of each board at the high point, which widens on each pass of the sander as the boards are slowly levelled by the sanding process.

When you sand old pine boards back to the wood, they can look very pale, even colourless. But don’t worry. The minute you apply a clear wood finishing product like an oil or varnish, that warm, attractive natural golden colour will come flooding through.

Testing the colour of your floorboards before finishing them

This change in colour is so dramatic that it’s usually best to test how it’ll look finished before choosing an oil or varnish. Luckily it’s easy. All you do is rub the surface with a damp – not wet – cloth and you get the exact same effect as oiling or varnishing – the colour suddenly shines through. Once you know what’s what, you can choose your finish: either something to enhance the natural colour or a colourless product.

What if you want to get rid of that bright orange/gold colour?

Orange or golden pine isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. And that’s the effect you can get from a standard clear oil or varnish – as time passes it can turn a deeper orange/gold, even a nasty brown. If your pine floor has gone a funny colour, you can always sand the old finish off and replace it with a product that won’t change colour as it ages.

If you’re looking to retain the natural appearance of freshly sanded boards, pine or oak, Osmo Polyx Oil Raw and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are both great products for defusing and countering the gold/orange colour you sometimes get.

  • Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) is made with natural oils and waxes, gives excellent protection and durability and is specifically formulated to retain the ‘natural’ look of wood. It counteracts the damp-looking darkening effect and grain enhancement you typically get with standard clear oils or varnishes.
  • Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural also keeps wood looking as natural and unaltered in colour as possible and dries to a clear, satin-matt finish. It’s perfect for light-coloured woods like pine, spruce and oak.
Osmo Polyx Oil Raw 3044 tin

Osmo Polyx Oil

Pine wood floor refinishing – Varnish or oil?

What’s best, an oil or a varnish? The protective qualities are much the same. But oil and varnish come with different types of maintenance, and to a great extent your choice depends on the amount of wear and tear the floor receives.

  • Using a wooden floor varnish tends to provide better durability and less maintenance, but you’ll need to re-sand the entire floor back to bare wood when the varnish eventually gets damaged and worn. How long this takes depends on the type and quality of the varnish and how much wear your floor is subjected to. It could be every year if you have pets, visitors and kids running in and out all the time. It could be five years or more if your home life is a lot quieter or you’ve covered the floor with rugs.
  • Using a wooden floor oil, on the other hand, requires maintenance, usually every couple of years, but it won’t flake, crack or peel off. It looks better than varnish as it begins to wear and is very easy to patch repair if it becomes worn in specific areas, unlike varnish. When an oiled floor starts to look like it’s past its best, simply clean with a suitable floor cleaner to remove any marks, scuffs or stains, then reapply a thin coat of oil, and “Voilà!” it’s just like new again. Even bad scuffs, stains, marks and light scratches can be fixed by lightly sanding the area and reapplying a fresh coat of oil.

A tough varnish, by the way, won’t make the flooring itself hard. If you drop something heavy on the floor, the wood will still dent even though the varnish stays intact.

We have put together this handy video helping you to understand the key difference between a varnish and oil, as well as application techniques.

Need help with your pine floorboards?

For more information about interior floor finishes and treatments, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great blogs that discuss wood flooring

217 comments

Evening,

I am in the process of sanding and finishing some Victorian pine floorboards. How would the look in your photo above captioned “Vintage Pine Floorboards” be best achieved? Kind regards, Ben.

Ben Sadler •

Reply to Ben Sadler:

Hello Ben,

Often a clear product can be all you need to get the warm colour that is in that photo. Pine will often have natural orange or yellow tones to it that are highlighted when a clear Floor Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/floor-oil) is applied to it. The Holzol is available in sample size to allow you to do a test area first.

If this does not give you the desired finish then you could have a look at the Manns Classic Pine Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-pine-wood-stain) to give some colour and then a top coat of the clear floor oil for protection.

If you have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any further questions.

Kind Regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi Sam,

Thanks for getting back to me.

I will try the Woodleys Wood Cleaner that you recommended and see how I get on.

thanks for your help.

Regards
Stacey

Stacey Smith •

Good afternoon,

I moved in to a 1930’s house last year and discovered it had parquet flooring under the laminate that had been put down.

I was informed that it was Columbian Pine so I had it sanded and treated with a sealant but it wasn’t waxed or oiled. Can you recommend the best cleaner to use as the normal every day one and Bona that I have been using leaves a dull film on it. Unfortunately I cannot get a hold of the guy who did the floor. Also, will I need to get it waxed or oiled to give the best look?
Thanks
Stacey

Stacey Smith •

Reply to Stacey Smith:

Hello Stacey,

You could have a look at the Woodleys Wood Surface Cleaner (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/wood-cleaner) as an general purpose cleaner as this is suitable for varnished or lacquered floors.

If it is sealed with a varnish then there is no need to follow up with oil as it is not compatible, wax can be applied if you wish to give some shine to the floor, but it offer no protective benefits and could potentially make the floor slippery.

I am happy to help should you have any further questions.

Kind Regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

When laying a pine tongue and groove floor is it necessary to seal the underside prior to laying and how long would you recommend leaving it to acclimatise in an outdoor cabin with no current heating…

Susan Jago •

Reply to Susan Jago:

Hello Susan,

Would I be right to assume that the flooring is going in the cabin ? You can leave the pine for a few weeks to acclimatize, but it is debatable as to whether this will really have any benefit.

It is a good idea to treat both sides if the wood before installing as this can help to prevent any possible bowing over time. If you need any advice on the right products to use please feel free to let me know. You can email me at wood@finishes.direct

Kind Regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi we have recently sanded which were old pine floorboards. We then applied Liberon sealant and wax on top but the floorboards have turned an ugly red orange tone. Sanding them again is not an option. Please can you suggest how to make the floors look natural or a lighter colour . Thanks

Ritika •

Reply to Ritika:

Hello Ritika,

It sounds like applying the oil has brought out the natural tones of the Pine. This is common, particularly on Pines and is the reason that a test area is always recommended. You could consider Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-wax) to tone down the orange, but it will have limited impact, a test area is really the only way to tell. If there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hello,

We are currently in the process of refinishing our wood floor in the kitchen. I am pretty sure it is pine but am no expert on identifying wood. I can send a photo if that will help.
We are planning to use an oil based stain and have the color picked out. However, we can’t decide on a sealer to use. Could you give some advice? We would like to keep the odor, or VOC, down as much as possible.

Thank you for the help!
-Tom

Tom •
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