Everything You Need to Know About Pine Flooring

|Tim Hagger

Of all the types of flooring available, wood with the perfect finish is still the most popular. And oak floorboards are gorgeous as well as fashionable. But pine wood flooring is another strong contender in the beauty stakes, a softwood that’s been used to make floorboards for centuries and a feature of many old homes across Britain.

Flooring made from pine log rounds

Pine Log Rounds – from antiquewoodnews.com

Vintage pine floorboards

Vintage Pine Floorboards

We’ve taken several long, detailed looks at oak flooring, furniture and doors. Now it’s time to explore the wonderful world of pine. If you have a pine floor that needs attention, or you’ve been tasked with getting one in apple-pie order for someone else, here’s everything you need to know.

Types of pine

Pine, also sometimes called redwood, is cheaper and more common than traditional hardwoods, ranging from almost white through various yellow shades to a deep, rich red. For a softwood, it’s often remarkably resilient and long-lasting, especially in the context of well-looked-after pine floors.

Pinus is the species we see most in UK and EU plantations. It’s useful for all sorts of utility work, a common wood for beams, flooring and structural purposes. But that’s just the start of it. There are a whole load of different types of pine trees found in the wild, so many in fact that the Wood Database website’s impressively long list is far too detailed to repeat here.

If you’re interested in the similarities and differences between soft pines and hard pines, and those within each group, you can’t beat the Wood Database pine page, an excellent resource.

Horses for courses – The pine flooring aesthetic

There’s a variety of flooring ideas and opinions concerning keeping wooden floors looking good. Some concerns involve floor maintenance, as some floors require little in the way of maintenance, while others require plenty of elbow grease and attention. And the choice is often a matter of aesthetics.

One of the best things about wood flooring is that it changes, going through all sorts of fascinating stages over time, depending on its type and location, with an equally wide range of end results. And every stage of the ageing process has its own beauty.

You might love the hundred-year-old (or much older) patina your old pine boards have acquired through generations of wear. It might be stained and dirty, uneven and bent, sometimes more or less black. But to you it’s perfect – a living piece of history marking decades or even centuries of human use. And that’s fine. If it has lasted this long in one piece, it might well last a great deal longer without falling apart on you.

Eastern white pine cabin interior

Eastern White Pine Cabin Interior

Your floor might be reasonably worn, partway between new and aged. You might adore the effect – the real shabby chic ideal – or you may prefer to get rid of the muck and repair any damage, giving it a whole new lease of life as well as a smooth, contemporary look.

A brand-new pine floor, on the other hand, can look pretty raw. The paler it is, the newer and less settled-in it looks. You might want to use a wood dye to create a subtler, less in-your-face effect, calming the brightness down a bit, and if it hasn’t already been protected, you’ll want to add a finishing oil or good-quality varnish.

How pine changes over time

The colour is one thing. The condition of old pine floors is another. Old boards can cup or arch over time, each board curling up at the edges, which means when you try to sand them you tend to get a thin sanded strip down the middle of each board at the high point, which widens on each pass of the sander as the boards are slowly levelled by the sanding process.

When you sand old pine boards back to the wood, they can look very pale, even colourless. But don’t worry. The minute you apply a clear wood finishing product like an oil or varnish, that warm, attractive natural golden colour will come flooding through.

Testing the colour of your floorboards before finishing them

This change in colour is so dramatic that it’s usually best to test how it’ll look finished before choosing an oil or varnish. Luckily it’s easy. All you do is rub the surface with a damp – not wet – cloth and you get the exact same effect as oiling or varnishing – the colour suddenly shines through. Once you know what’s what, you can choose your finish: either something to enhance the natural colour or a colourless product.

What if you want to get rid of that bright orange/gold colour?

Orange or golden pine isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. And that’s the effect you can get from a standard clear oil or varnish – as time passes it can turn a deeper orange/gold, even a nasty brown. If your pine floor has gone a funny colour, you can always sand the old finish off and replace it with a product that won’t change colour as it ages.

If you’re looking to retain the natural appearance of freshly sanded boards, pine or oak, Osmo Polyx Oil Raw and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are both great products for defusing and countering the gold/orange colour you sometimes get.

  • Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) is made with natural oils and waxes, gives excellent protection and durability and is specifically formulated to retain the ‘natural’ look of wood. It counteracts the damp-looking darkening effect and grain enhancement you typically get with standard clear oils or varnishes.
  • Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural also keeps wood looking as natural and unaltered in colour as possible and dries to a clear, satin-matt finish. It’s perfect for light-coloured woods like pine, spruce and oak.
Osmo Polyx Oil Raw 3044 tin

Osmo Polyx Oil

Pine wood floor refinishing – Varnish or oil?

What’s best, an oil or a varnish? The protective qualities are much the same. But oil and varnish come with different types of maintenance, and to a great extent your choice depends on the amount of wear and tear the floor receives.

  • Using a wooden floor varnish tends to provide better durability and less maintenance, but you’ll need to re-sand the entire floor back to bare wood when the varnish eventually gets damaged and worn. How long this takes depends on the type and quality of the varnish and how much wear your floor is subjected to. It could be every year if you have pets, visitors and kids running in and out all the time. It could be five years or more if your home life is a lot quieter or you’ve covered the floor with rugs.
  • Using a wooden floor oil, on the other hand, requires maintenance, usually every couple of years, but it won’t flake, crack or peel off. It looks better than varnish as it begins to wear and is very easy to patch repair if it becomes worn in specific areas, unlike varnish. When an oiled floor starts to look like it’s past its best, simply clean with a suitable floor cleaner to remove any marks, scuffs or stains, then reapply a thin coat of oil, and “Voilà!” it’s just like new again. Even bad scuffs, stains, marks and light scratches can be fixed by lightly sanding the area and reapplying a fresh coat of oil.

A tough varnish, by the way, won’t make the flooring itself hard. If you drop something heavy on the floor, the wood will still dent even though the varnish stays intact.

We have put together this handy video helping you to understand the key difference between a varnish and oil, as well as application techniques.

Need help with your pine floorboards?

For more information about interior floor finishes and treatments, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great blogs that discuss wood flooring

217 comments

Reply to Dee:

Hello Dee,

Ideally I would recommend Holzol Floor Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/floor-oil) as a good option. It soaks into the surface of the wood and gives great protection whilst leaving the wood looking and feeling very natural. But because it needs to soak in to the woods surface there may be some things that prevent this if you are not sanding back to bare wood and so a test area is strongly advised.

Alternatively, I would suggest a Wax finish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-wax) for the floor. We don’t often recommend wax as it is less durable then Oils or Varnishes, however it goes well over most surfaces and can add to the Patina that you already have.

I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know. Always try a test area first.

Kind Regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi Sam, thanks for the advice regarding my indoor pine, much appreciated, excellent website!

Richard •

Hi Sam,

I have gone to an enormous amount of trouble to hand sand my old (1850’s) 10" wide pine floorboards and am anxious about what to protect them with. As it stands and in a dry state they are very pale and I am keen to keep them as pale and natural looking as possible, as if they haven’t been treated. I have always had wooden floors and normally treat them with a matt varnish but I don’t want the same pale orange look for these boards. I would love to hear what you recommend.
Many thanks
Dolat

Dolat Corr •

Reply to Dolat Corr:

Hello,

The first thing to try is wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the bare wood. This will show you how much a clear oil or varnish will darken the wood and if it will highlight any orange or yellow tones that may be in to wood. If you like the way this looks then you could have a look at Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil) which is very durable and will leave the wood looking and feeling natural.

If you find the test is too dark, then you can look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening) which has a minute amount of white pigment in it to counteract the darkening of a clear oil. Always try a test area first, if you have a read of the recommended products and feel free to let me know if you have any questions.

Kind Regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi
I have just had my pine floorboards sanded and a water based polyurethane applied. Was going for a natural light modern wood look, but the knots in the wood that didn’t show up before are now everywhere and a dark brown/ black colour and the floor looks awful. Any advice as to how I can lighten the knots and sort this out would be greatly appreciated??? Thanks

Anna •

Reply to Anna:

Hello Anna,

Are you able to send me some photos and I will happily take a look for you. You can send them to wood@finishes.direct

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi Sam,
Just purchased p.a.r joinery grade pine pine boards to make my son a cabin bed, was thinking of finishing with osmo oil tints (darkish),followed by hard wax oil, my questions are, should I treat with a clear wood preservative first?
Should I use a knotting solution? If so at what stage?
Would it be better to acclimatise wood in doors before oiling
Thanks

Rich •

Reply to Rich:

Hello Richard,

No need for a preservative for an indoor project. And in this case I would also avoid using a knotting solution. Internal Pine is unlikely to have any leeching and the knotting solution is not generally suitable for use under an oil.

So for the best protection of your wood two thin coats of the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-colour-foundation) would be sufficient. Or if you find the colour from one coat is what you are looking for then you could do one coat of the tint and one of the Clear Polyx Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil). Always try a test area first and if you have any further questions please do let me know.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi. About five years ago we replaced the old, knackered pine flooring with new pine floorboards. We sealed with dulux diamond glaze but within a year the boards had become incredibly dirty from people walking on them and from normal cleaning (once a week mop). We have had pine before and never had this problem. We wondered if we used the wrong sealant or whether new pine boards are more absorbant? The dirt is seeped right into the wood we don’t think we will be able to sand it out.

Nick •

Reply to Nick:

Hello Nick,

I would expect the Varnish to last around 5 years or less on a general use domestic floor and it may have needed a maintenance coat at some point. Area that are high traffic like door way will wear away quicker than other areas and could result in stains and dirt marking the wood.

You could try a product such as Bona Freshen Up (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/bona-freshen-up) which is a cleaner and refresher treatment in one.

If you feel the floor is beyond this and are considering sanding back and starting again then I can recommend the Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-floor-varnish) as a great option, or for easy maintenance you could look at a Floor Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/floor-oil). It is a less durable product than varnish but still very strong and simply requires re oiling when you feel it needs it without having to sand back. And any damaged or mark areas can be patch repaired.

If you have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any further questions.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •
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