Everything You Need to Know About Pine Flooring

|Tim Hagger

Of all the types of flooring available, wood with the perfect finish is still the most popular. And oak floorboards are gorgeous as well as fashionable. But pine wood flooring is another strong contender in the beauty stakes, a softwood that’s been used to make floorboards for centuries and a feature of many old homes across Britain.

Flooring made from pine log rounds

Pine Log Rounds – from antiquewoodnews.com

Vintage pine floorboards

Vintage Pine Floorboards

We’ve taken several long, detailed looks at oak flooring, furniture and doors. Now it’s time to explore the wonderful world of pine. If you have a pine floor that needs attention, or you’ve been tasked with getting one in apple-pie order for someone else, here’s everything you need to know.

Types of pine

Pine, also sometimes called redwood, is cheaper and more common than traditional hardwoods, ranging from almost white through various yellow shades to a deep, rich red. For a softwood, it’s often remarkably resilient and long-lasting, especially in the context of well-looked-after pine floors.

Pinus is the species we see most in UK and EU plantations. It’s useful for all sorts of utility work, a common wood for beams, flooring and structural purposes. But that’s just the start of it. There are a whole load of different types of pine trees found in the wild, so many in fact that the Wood Database website’s impressively long list is far too detailed to repeat here.

If you’re interested in the similarities and differences between soft pines and hard pines, and those within each group, you can’t beat the Wood Database pine page, an excellent resource.

Horses for courses – The pine flooring aesthetic

There’s a variety of flooring ideas and opinions concerning keeping wooden floors looking good. Some concerns involve floor maintenance, as some floors require little in the way of maintenance, while others require plenty of elbow grease and attention. And the choice is often a matter of aesthetics.

One of the best things about wood flooring is that it changes, going through all sorts of fascinating stages over time, depending on its type and location, with an equally wide range of end results. And every stage of the ageing process has its own beauty.

You might love the hundred-year-old (or much older) patina your old pine boards have acquired through generations of wear. It might be stained and dirty, uneven and bent, sometimes more or less black. But to you it’s perfect – a living piece of history marking decades or even centuries of human use. And that’s fine. If it has lasted this long in one piece, it might well last a great deal longer without falling apart on you.

Eastern white pine cabin interior

Eastern White Pine Cabin Interior

Your floor might be reasonably worn, partway between new and aged. You might adore the effect – the real shabby chic ideal – or you may prefer to get rid of the muck and repair any damage, giving it a whole new lease of life as well as a smooth, contemporary look.

A brand-new pine floor, on the other hand, can look pretty raw. The paler it is, the newer and less settled-in it looks. You might want to use a wood dye to create a subtler, less in-your-face effect, calming the brightness down a bit, and if it hasn’t already been protected, you’ll want to add a finishing oil or good-quality varnish.

How pine changes over time

The colour is one thing. The condition of old pine floors is another. Old boards can cup or arch over time, each board curling up at the edges, which means when you try to sand them you tend to get a thin sanded strip down the middle of each board at the high point, which widens on each pass of the sander as the boards are slowly levelled by the sanding process.

When you sand old pine boards back to the wood, they can look very pale, even colourless. But don’t worry. The minute you apply a clear wood finishing product like an oil or varnish, that warm, attractive natural golden colour will come flooding through.

Testing the colour of your floorboards before finishing them

This change in colour is so dramatic that it’s usually best to test how it’ll look finished before choosing an oil or varnish. Luckily it’s easy. All you do is rub the surface with a damp – not wet – cloth and you get the exact same effect as oiling or varnishing – the colour suddenly shines through. Once you know what’s what, you can choose your finish: either something to enhance the natural colour or a colourless product.

What if you want to get rid of that bright orange/gold colour?

Orange or golden pine isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. And that’s the effect you can get from a standard clear oil or varnish – as time passes it can turn a deeper orange/gold, even a nasty brown. If your pine floor has gone a funny colour, you can always sand the old finish off and replace it with a product that won’t change colour as it ages.

If you’re looking to retain the natural appearance of freshly sanded boards, pine or oak, Osmo Polyx Oil Raw and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are both great products for defusing and countering the gold/orange colour you sometimes get.

  • Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) is made with natural oils and waxes, gives excellent protection and durability and is specifically formulated to retain the ‘natural’ look of wood. It counteracts the damp-looking darkening effect and grain enhancement you typically get with standard clear oils or varnishes.
  • Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural also keeps wood looking as natural and unaltered in colour as possible and dries to a clear, satin-matt finish. It’s perfect for light-coloured woods like pine, spruce and oak.
Osmo Polyx Oil Raw 3044 tin

Osmo Polyx Oil

Pine wood floor refinishing – Varnish or oil?

What’s best, an oil or a varnish? The protective qualities are much the same. But oil and varnish come with different types of maintenance, and to a great extent your choice depends on the amount of wear and tear the floor receives.

  • Using a wooden floor varnish tends to provide better durability and less maintenance, but you’ll need to re-sand the entire floor back to bare wood when the varnish eventually gets damaged and worn. How long this takes depends on the type and quality of the varnish and how much wear your floor is subjected to. It could be every year if you have pets, visitors and kids running in and out all the time. It could be five years or more if your home life is a lot quieter or you’ve covered the floor with rugs.
  • Using a wooden floor oil, on the other hand, requires maintenance, usually every couple of years, but it won’t flake, crack or peel off. It looks better than varnish as it begins to wear and is very easy to patch repair if it becomes worn in specific areas, unlike varnish. When an oiled floor starts to look like it’s past its best, simply clean with a suitable floor cleaner to remove any marks, scuffs or stains, then reapply a thin coat of oil, and “Voilà!” it’s just like new again. Even bad scuffs, stains, marks and light scratches can be fixed by lightly sanding the area and reapplying a fresh coat of oil.

A tough varnish, by the way, won’t make the flooring itself hard. If you drop something heavy on the floor, the wood will still dent even though the varnish stays intact.

We have put together this handy video helping you to understand the key difference between a varnish and oil, as well as application techniques.

Need help with your pine floorboards?

For more information about interior floor finishes and treatments, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great blogs that discuss wood flooring

217 comments

Hi, I have read all the advice here which has been really useful.
I’m going to install a new softwood floor to my whole flat including bathroom and kitchen. I saw the advice to use Osmo wood protector in the bathroom before the finish, would this also be worth while in the kitchen?
I’d like the final colour to be dark in all rooms, understanding that I can achieve this with either a stain before the finish product or a by using a tinted finish product. What I’m unsure of is if I were to use a tinted oil and used it to patch repair / maintenance, wouldn’t this be vulnerable to patchiness in the colour? More layers = stronger colour?
And would this not also be an issue with sanding down a tinted varnish and re-varnishing the floor after 5-10 years?
Thanks!

Aja Teelock •

Reply to Aja Teelock:

Good Afternoon Aja,

You are right in your thinking that coloured finishes can be slightly problematic years down the line. How much will depend on a number of factors that include which products you have used, how much exposure to the sun there is and foot traffic, particularly areas that wear away quicker such as door ways. It would be fair to say the darker the colour the longer it will last but it can also be difficult to match after a time.

These problems can arise with both an oiled finish and a varnished finish. It is fair to say that an oil finish will be much easier to deal with and patch repair should the need arise.

In regards to the Osmo WR Base Coat (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wr-base-coat) this can be used in both the Bathroom and the Kitchen to give that extra level of protection from the changing temperatures and humidity that you can experience in both these rooms.

I hope that help sand if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.

Kind Regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

The pine floors in my early 1900s home are very dark where the carpet has been removed. I love the color but want to protect the floors. They are almost black. I haven’t sanded or used any chemical cleaner.

Crystal bean •

Reply to Crystal bean:

Hello Crystal,

Its a difficult one as the wood is likely to need a clean in order to apply a finish, this will help to prevent adhesion problems with varnish or penetration problems with an oil. However cleaning the floor may change the colour that you have. I would be happy to take a look at some photos if you want to email them to wood@finishes.direct with as much information as possible, such as what the current finish is?

I look forward to hearing from you.

Kind regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Hi I have Baltic pine in a 1830’s Georgia. House, apparently Baltic pine has a fiercesome tendency to turn orange if varnished, I want to keep it as original as possible but as hard wearing as possible also. After I sand it down what would you recommend doing and which product would you use? Also how many coats?
Many thank

Peter R •

Reply to Peter R:

Good morning Peter,

Many Pines will have an orange tinge to them, when products are applied it brings out the natural tones of the wood as well as the grain. There are a couple of products that you could try. Fiddeas Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening) or the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil-raw-3044) these are both clear oils that offer great protection to the floor, leaving it looking and feeling very natural.

They also contain a minute amount of white pigment that counteract the darkening effects of a standard clear oil. This may help also to reduce the orange tone, you will need to try test area first however to check for this. They both require application to bare wood that has been sanded to around 120 – 150 grit, two coats very thinly applied should the test area give you the results required. The other alternative will be to consider applying a coloured oil such as the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-tints). Again a test area should be done first.

We have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7-tgwbsUxm73aVnAjLGHRA) that offer advice on preparation and application.

I hope that helps some and if you have any questions do not hesitate to let me know.

Kind regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Hello
I live in a typical semidetached Victorian house built in 1901. We have wooden flooring throughout the downstairs rooms. The kitchen is currently tiled, on top of plywood, which is laid on top of the original floorboards.
We are having a side return extension to the kitchen built and hope to match the existing flooring. How can I identify what type of flooring we have? Pine/pitch pine? And then find flooring to match? The present boards are 14cm wide and 2.2cm in depth.
I’m planning to get the extension boarded then sand both the existing kitchen floorboards and the extension boards together, then oil to achieve the same finish as the rest of the house.

Claire •

Reply to Claire:

Good Afternoon Claire,

Thank you for your enquiry, this is not an area that I have great knowledge on. What I can tell you is that matching floor boards is not easy. Even if you are able to work out what the current wood is and get the same, chances are it will react differently to treatments because it will have been exposed to different environments, as an example it may have been totally exposed for years where yours has been covered. It may have had various treatments applied over the years or had chemical strippers or cleaners used. Age will also impact on the wood and if you apply the same product to a 100 year old pine board as you do to a 30 year old board you are likely to get a variance of some degree.

I don’t want to put you off as it is not impossible to get a close finish and I will be happy to help with advice on which products may meet you needs and help bring the boards close in finish. You can email me and let me know how you got on with the project and for any treatment advice on wood@finishes.direct.

Kind regards Samantha.

Samantha Taylor •

Reply to Claire:

Hi Claire, I would be very interested to hear if / how you resolved this as I have exactly the same problem ? -matching the ground floor flooring as closely as possible when laying the new boards in an extension.
Kind regards
Jack

Jack •

Hi Sam
Love all your advice and wish i’d found this site before oiling my floors! I have just used Osmo oil clear Matt on newly sanded old (1920’s) pine floorboards. They were only done over the past few days but have made the floor very bright. Not so much orange but like a very warm very bright wood colour. We’ve done 2 coats.It’s brighter than I hoped for and I was wondering 2 things 1) how do you know if the floor is too saturated for another coat and b) what would happen if I used one of the lightening oils like osmo raw or Fiddes natural over it? Am wondering if this could dull if down a bit and look more natural again
Thanks so much

Jane •
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