Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A Little History of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?
Acorn of the mighty oak tree.
Treating Oak Wood
With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:
- When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.
Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3–5 coats of high-quality tung oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- Followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.
Unfinished oak.
Treated oak.
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:
- If an oiled finish is preferred, then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred, then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
469 comments
Hi
I bought a oak tv unit secondhand.
It has a very orange look off it that I dont like.
What is the best way to get rid of this? I dont want it darkened as I like natural looking wood.
Also can you tell me how to take off acrylic paint from the top off it as the previous owner sprayed it.
Thanks in advance.
Erica
Reply to Erica Hempenstall:
Hello Erica,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. I would recommend the Barrettine Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-paint-panther-paint-varnish-remover) as a quick and effective stripper to remove much of the current finish. Its a little messy but work well on most previous coatings, a test area should always be done to ensure there are no adverse reactions.
Once most or all of the previous product is gone you are able to sand the wood. How much will depend on the condition of the wood, but as a guide you can start at 80 grit and work up to 120 – 150 grit. You will find the natural colour of the wood is far less orange in appearance and from there you can start to consider your options for a natural finish and Oils are very good for a natural look and feel.
Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil) requires just two thin coats to be applied for a finish that will nourish and protect the wood. It will darken slightly to give that ‘wet look’ and if you want to avoid this and maintain an untreated appearance you can look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening).
I am here to help if you have any questions at all just get in touch contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact)
And we always love a before and after shot if you fancy sharing.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi there, i stumbled across your blog and hope you can help… We’re having some work done on our new house that requires the white oak doors fitted by the previous owners be varnished using an intumescent coating to hit building regs. I think i’ve found a reasonable coating that is a nice matte finish, but the doors appear to have either been left raw/bare wood (some even have the manufacturer labels still attached!) or, at the very most, been wiped with a bit of oil perhaps. I cant contact the previous owners to check and i have 9 doors to work on. What would you advise to eliminate any previous coatings, grease, and day to day grime that may have built up on the doors before applying the new varnish etc?
Reply to STEPHEN MASSEY:
Good Morning Stephen,
For an all over good clean I would recommend Barrettine Methylated Spirits (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-meths) it will degrease the surface and remove any grime.
It does not remove any remaining finish on the woods surface however and to remove these will depend on the type of finish that has been used. Oils will have to be sanded out, waxes can be removed with a Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/stripper) and varnishes, either sanded out or a stripper such as the Barrettine Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-paint-panther-paint-varnish-remover). With any stripper a test area should always be carried out first to ensure there is no adverse reaction.
Its also worth checking all the details for the product that you are applying to the door for any preparation guidance that they recommend.
For further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi. I’m very pleased to have my two front posts of my front porch replaced with oak. (They support the porch roof which is all open) I want them looking natural and not looking varnished. I want to protect them against the elements without looking a fake colour. Please can you advise the best way forward for me please. A very excited customer, dawn
Reply to Dawn:
Hi Dawn,
A popular choice for exterior oak is to use a wood oil such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-uv-protection-oil). Using an oil will help to feed and nourish the wood whilst protecting it from weathering. Oils are very easy to apply and maintain and will never crack, flake or peel off. In terms of the finish they produce, if you use the clear (420) from this range, it will darken the wood to give it an almost damp like appearance and will also enhance the oaks natural colour character and grain. If you prefer to keep a more natural, untreated look, consider using the ‘Natural (429)’ from the same range which has been designed to do just this. This version will keep the wood lighter in appearance.
If you want to get an idea of how the wood will look with the ‘clear (420)’, simply dampen a section of the wood with a clean cloth and some water. This gives a fairly good representation of how the wood will look once oiled.
I hope the above helps but if you have any further questions about your project or which products to use, please feel free to contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) at any time.
Kind regards,
Hi
Your expert advise would be hugely welcomed. I am ordering some new custom cut oak kitchen worktops. The company.‘s policy is that they treat it with rustins Danish oil 3 coats before despatch. I think on balance I would prefer to use the osmo hard wax products than Danish oil so want to order the tops untreated then on delivery treat with osmo products.
They say the tops are kiln dried and want me to sign a waiver for bowing or warping from any moisture during transit. It’s warm and sunny weather by the way! As I intend to treat them on arrival is this a real risk I shouldn’t take and settle for their their Danish oil pre treatment?
My thoughts for best protection are osmo wood protector followed by top oil. Is this a good combination or are Fidders products better? I am happy with any slight darkening/ enriching of the finished colour but prefer not yellow which is another reason for avoiding Danish oil
Many thanks
Reply to Robert ormerod:
Hi Robert,
If you have concerns about the transit waiver with the worktop supplier then settle for the Danish Oil finish. It does not mean that you can’t use Osmo Top Oil at a later date. Once the worktops have been installed you can either wait for the danish oil finish to naturally wear then apply the Osmo Top Oil, or alternatively, they can be lightly sanded with a 120 grit sandpaper, then wiped down with white spirit and then treated with the Osmo Top Oil.
I hope this helps but if you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) at any time.
Hi, I have an old bookcase purchased from a house clearence sale, I’ve no idea how old it is, was promised it was oak, I’ve removed the varnish, (after reading comments, I now know I used too much water) to wipe if after scraping off the paint stripper. it has ridges where the wood seems to have sunk around knotted areas and along grains, I like it, it has a character, I applied some teak oil, but after reading the comments, I’m assuming this was not a good product to use, I’m a complete beginner at all this. What would you recommend? I like the lighter look of the wood, & I enjoy seeing the knots and grain of the wood, what would you recoend?
Thank you
Reply to Shalana Wright:
Hi Shalana,
It sounds like the grain has raised after being wetted with water. This is where the soft grain of the wood swells after absorbing water whereas the denser, harder grain does not.
Applying a wood oil will usually darken the wood and enhance the natural colour and character of the timber, some more than others. To better retain the natural, untreated look of the wood whilst still offering protection from dust, dirt and moisture try either Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil-raw-3044) or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil). Both products are ‘hard wax oils’ and are easy to apply and maintain. These 2 products will better retain the natural, freshly stripped or sanded look rather than darkening and enhancing the wood grain. Both products are available in sample or small tin sizes if you would like to try them first.
Hard Wax Oils have excellent coverage and you will only need a small amount to do a bookcase.
You may be able to remove much of the teak oil by using a clean, white (uncoloured) lint-free or microfibre cloth dampened in white spirit. This will help to dissolve the teak oil and you should be able to wash out and wipe it off. The only other alternative is to sand the teak oil out but you will unfortunately loose the raised grain look that you like.
I hope the above helps but if you have any further questions about your project or the products to use, please feel free to contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) at any time.