Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A Little History of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?
Acorn of the mighty oak tree.
Treating Oak Wood
With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:
- When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.
Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3–5 coats of high-quality tung oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- Followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.
Unfinished oak.
Treated oak.
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:
- If an oiled finish is preferred, then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred, then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
469 comments
Hi, I recently acquired some freshly felled oak rounds and want to make them into chopping boards) I got a few so I can experiment and keep the best when they’re done :) what’s the best way to dry them and how long should I dry them before sanding and applying oils? Thanks very much in advance
Reply to Lynz:
Hello Lynz,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. Green oak can take a long period to dry out, as a guide, 1 inch thickness will take around a year to get to a moisture level that is suitable for application of a product.
Sealing the wood before then and trapping that moisture into the wood, will cause poor adhesion, discolouration or mould further down the line.
When they are dry, I would recommend taking a look at any of the top oils for protection of a chopping board, they are food safe and easy to apply, clean and maintain. Osmo Top Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-top-oil) or Manns Premier Top Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-premier-top-oil) are both good options to consider and if you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi, I’m enjoying reading your blog. We have a solid oak front door that is starting to look unhappy, with areas looking a little pale and rough. The door faces South, with no porch or overhang. It was last treated about 5 years ago, with Osmo clear UV protector. I’m not sure what the best course of action is. We could sand it and apply a couple of coats of Osmo clear UV protector again. Or, we could paint the door a dark colour. I don’t know whether, for a door facing South, clear Osmo will be enough protection against the elements. What do you suggest?
Reply to Bob Sather:
Thanks for your help on this.
Reply to Bob Sather:
Hello Bob,
I think its fair to say that any south facing surface is likely to need a little more regular TLC to keep it looking good, and the same is true for your door.
The Osmo is an ideal product for the door and if you like the finish it gives, then stick with it. I would just recommend a slightly more regular maintenance routine.
So if after a year the finish is starting to look a little dry and tired then a top up coat to a clean dry surface will help. Depending on the exposure a year might be too soon and the wood will not be ready to accept more oil, so wait another year and look again.
In the mean time a refresh with a cleaning product such as the Osmo Liquid Wax Cleaner (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-liquid-wax-cleaner) will help to keep it looking good.
It is also fair to say that the application of a colour will improve the protection and appearance longer than a clear product will, the pigments are great UV filters and so you could take a look at the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-stain-protector) as Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain option for this.
I hope that all helps and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi there,
I’m currently designing 5x oak sash windows to replace the rotten old softwood ones currently in my house.
On the outside I want to paint them to match the trim elsewhere, but on the inside I want to oil them for the rich golden colour.
My concern is that I will be unbalancing the material and creating a bias for it to expand/contract unevenly.
What is your experience for a situation like this?
Thanks for you help :)
Reply to George Watson:
Hello George,
Its quite possible that varying products on either side may result in slight imbalance of the wood. However I would expect it to be very minimal if any, depending of course on the many variables that will also factor in. Such as wood type, treatment types and how exposed the exterior is to the elements.
If both sides of the frames are well sealed with durable products then there really should not be too much of an issue to be had here. It is further down the line when one starts to wear and the other does not that the issue may become more obvious and ensuring good maintenance will help to avoid future problems.
You could consider a product such as the Osmo Country Colour (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-country-colour) this is a penetrating oil that gives an opaque paint like look and may be better matched to an oiled finish on the inside. Both sides then being Microporous and better suited to expansion and retraction of the wood.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do feel free to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, really hope you can help. I am wanting to know if oiling or varnishing is the best way to protect oak slats on garden benches?
Reply to tina bird:
Hello Tina,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. I tend to recommend oils over varnishes for exterior projects, the reason being, that although they oils are not quite as durable as varnishes they are far easier to maintain over time. Oils penetrate the woods surface and will not peel and flake. They are very good at repelling moisture and when they wear and need refreshing you can simply apply a coat to the clean, dry surface and refresh the appearance and the protective quality.
We have a range of Garden Furniture oils that you could have a look at, a popular choice is the Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-garden-furniture-oil) which is suitable for hard and soft woods.
Good preparation will be the key to a good finish and I would always recommend a test area first to ensure you like the result achieved.
I hope that helps and if you need any further advice please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
All the Best Samantha.
Reply to Samantha Taylor:
Thanks so much for your suggestion, Samantha.
The windows are now built and I’ll look at getting in a few samples to test the finishes. They look so nice that I think I may leave them natural and oil both sides.
Very excited to see how it turns out.
thanks again for your help. :)