Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A Little History of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?
Acorn of the mighty oak tree.
Treating Oak Wood
With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:
- When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.
Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3–5 coats of high-quality tung oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- Followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.
Unfinished oak.
Treated oak.
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:
- If an oiled finish is preferred, then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred, then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
469 comments
Hi,
We have treated an oak (external door) with the Barratine Preservative and Osmo (Oak) Oil (as per the guidelines above).
However, 3 full days after applying the Osmo, it is still tacky and wet to the touch in lots of places.
The weather isn’t that hot, but the container states 24 hours drying time.
Can you provide any pointers?
Thanks
John
Reply to John Houghton:
Good Morning John,
My apologies for not getting back to you sooner. Slow drying time is often an indication of over application of the oil. Osmo oils do require very thin coats to be applied and depending on the type and preparation of the wood will depend on how much. Oak being a hard wood, for example will require less oil that a pine or other softwood. And the preparation can also impact on uptake, sanding to a grit higher than 150 can start to close the grain and make the oil less likely to absorb into the surface of the wood. Or previous product that remains on the wood can also reduce penetration.
Of course the cooler weather and damp conditions of this time of year will also slow down the drying time some what.
Over time the oil will dry, however if it is on the surface it could offer reduce protection over time and you may need to consider sanding back and re applying more thinly.
If you need any further help or advice please do not hesitate to get in touch with me via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi we have had a oak pegolla built over our fish pond 8 weeks ago the oak is untreated but every time it rains the tanning oil comes out the wood and discoulors the water in the pond and stains the brick work around it, the oil is totally harmless to the fish but my question is how long will the tanning oil come from the oak?
Thanks
Mark
Reply to Mark. Moore:
Good Morning Mark,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Its a bit of a how long is a piece of string question I am afraid. It will depend on how old the wood is, how it has been dried, where and how long it has been stored before it came to you.
I would say you can expect the issue to continue for around 5 years. More so in the colder and damper months as this is what activates the tannins. My usual advice would be to wipe down occasionally with some Methylated Spirits, however the proximity of the pond makes this difficult, but if you are able to clean or remove tannins that leach out it will help to avoid black mould.
The tannins are a bit like candy for mould and it is advisable where possible to keep the wood clean.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi
I recently purchased some oak veneer doors, I did one in Osmo Polyx raw, I didn’t like the finish so lightly sanded and redid with Osmo Polyx clear satin, however the finish on this particular door is now totally different to the other 2 doors I have finished. (The other 2 doors have only had the clear satin on) The surface of the door feels smooth with no grain and the colour hasn’t darkened off any like the others which still feel like wood. Is there a way to bring it back or have I sanded the grain away, I fear it’s the latter!!
Reply to Shar:
Good Afternoon Shar,
It does sound like you have changed the texture of the door by sanding it. Often you can get the texture back by wetting bare wood, this raises the grain a little. However as you have applied an oil this will not now work and as the doors are veneered I would not like to recommend a further sand at this stage unless it was absolutely necessary or if you are sure that you will never be sanding those doors again in the future.
Veneers in general will only take sanding once or twice, before you start to get through to the base wood ruining the overall appearance of the veneer. If you do need any further advice or guidance please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi there I wonder whether you can help. We’ve recently had a new staircase fitted (oak handrail and newell posts) and I’ve used Osmo Wood Hardwax Finish with a light oak tint in it. Colour is great, especially after 2 thin coats applied, however, I’d like a bit of shine to it if possible (but still looking natural). Any advise please? Thank you.
Reply to Carmen Culici:
Hello Carmen,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question, because oils penetrate the surface of the wood there is little reflective surface and so little shine.
You are able to apply a wax over the current finish and this can give the desired shine to your wood. Wax can be applied over most finishes with out issue, however you can not apply anything over a wax and so you will need to remove the wax, should you need to refresh or top up the Oil on a future date.
You could take a look at the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-wax) which has a clear within the range that you can apply to your handrails and newell posts. Although it is suitable for use on the flooring and treads I would not recommend as wax can be slippery underfoot over time.
For further advice or alternate product options, you can visit our website or get in touch via contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Does staining on the surface of oak depend on water getting though the timber. Or can it be brought out by water running over the surface. I have an internal situation where there is tannin staining on the surface, I cannot believe that water is getting through the thick oak beams, so it must be coming round/over and between joints. (Just cannot seem to find where the water is getting in!).
Reply to Robert Allfrey:
Hello Robert,
Tannins in oak can become reactive because of colder temperatures as well as moisture ingress. If the beams are very aged and very porous the moisture could be traveling around the surfaces of the wood much easier.
Barrettine Methylated Spirits (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-meths) can be used to wipe away the tannins, although any that have stained may need sanding.
Locating that source of moisture ingress will be the only way to truly prevent further damage, I am sure you know. And if there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know.
kind Regards Samantha.