Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A Little History of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?
Acorn of the mighty oak tree.
Treating Oak Wood
With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:
- When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.
Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3–5 coats of high-quality tung oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- Followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.
Unfinished oak.
Treated oak.
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:
- If an oiled finish is preferred, then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred, then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
469 comments
Hello Sam
Thanks for your advice, I have put my order in today and will be pleased to let you have some photos of the results.
I’ve been keeping an eye out for your blog on children’s play structures, but not seen it yet. Please would you point me in the right direction, or if it isn’t finished yet, perhaps you would be good enough to send me a rough copy by email so that I can read your advice before I make a start on the construction.
All the best
Andu
We have a white oak double door and frame , it was varnished and needs stripping, what product would you recommend to remove the clear yacht varnish.?
-Ant
Reply to Antony Scarah:
Hello Antony,
There are 2 products that you can have a look at, the first is Barrettine Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-paint-panther-paint-varnish-remover) which is designed to make the the varnish/paint bubble up so that you can scrap it off with a filler knife or scraper such as the Mako Filler Knife (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/filler-knife) or Peelaway Easy Grip Stripping Knife (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-peelaway-easy-grip-stripping-knife). The alternative would be to use Peelaway 7 (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-peelaway-7) which is a poultice based system that is left on the surface for 24/48 hours and then removed once the paint has been dissolved.
Both these products are very good at varnish removal. I recommend doing a test area first with each to see which is most effective on the finish you have. If you have any further questions please let me know – Sam.
i have just installed a green oak fire surround it has a wax coating and looks great but just by being in the house it has already started cracking which is ok at the moment it gives it some character but I don’t want the cracks to expand into gapping creavaces when we use the log burner, a lot of your comments tell me to use an oil to prevent cracking is this safe to use with a fire surround
Reply to Tony footitt:
Hello Tony,
Cracks like this are usually caused because the wood has either becoming too dry or because of extreme temperature changes from hot to cold regularly. Although the wax will offer some protection, I would recommend removing it ( with White Spirits or a wax and polish remover ) and applying an oil such as Osmo Wood Protector (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-protector). This will feed and nourish the wood and help to prevent the wood from drying out. And then apply a good quality wood oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil) that will nourish and protect it. Both these products will be suitable to use on a Fire surround. Let me know if you have any other questions – Sam
HiSam, I am helping renovate a cottage that has 200yr old beams inside used for internal lintels and archways. This oak has obviously been outside for some time as it has aged beautifully. My question is, a lot of new oak ( big pieces) have been used alongside the old oak inside, what can I put on the new oak to make it look aged like the existing or to take some of the newness out? I look forward to your reply Dave
Reply to Dave:
Hello Dave,
Matching New wood to Old wood can be as difficult as colour matching I’m afraid but you could have a look at the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-wax) as there are some colours in this range.
Or it is worth having a look at the Manns Classic Oak Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-oak-wood-stain) or even the Manns Classic Pine Wood Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-pine-wood-stain) to see if there is a colour in there that will give the wood an aged look. With both these stains you can intermix to change colours and dilute with water to lighten. Multiple layers applied onto the wood will add depth of colour, so with a little bit of experimenting its possible that you could achieve the look you want. If the wood has grayed then Driftwood is a good colour to consider.
You could use a wood wax or hard wax oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/waxes) to seal the stain when you have achieved the desired colour.
Hi Sam, further to my earlier message, I tried a blob of cooking oil on a corner that is not damaged and it remained. It did not soak into the wood so I presume it is varnished or lacquered, Alan
Reply to Alan Wright:
Hello Alan,
Because the Oil remained on the surface of the wood it would indicate that you have a Varnish/Lacquer on your table. If you where looking to restore this table yourself I would recommend stripping it back with Barrettine Paint Panther (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-paint-panther-paint-varnish-remover) which will remove most paint and varnishes. Once this is done a light sand with a 150 grit sandpaper and the table should be ready for a new treatment.
Applying an Oil based product will make future maintenance much easier and will give the table a more natural finish. It will depend on the colour that you would be looking for but a couple of thin coats of Osmo Poly Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil) which is a clear finish that will darken the wood slightly or for a colour you could look at the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-colour-foundation) which will protect and colour at the same time. It is always advisable to do a test area first, to ensure you like the finish. And if you have any further questions do let me know – Sam
Hi Sam, I have an oak dining table which is used every day. The edges of the top surface (where we lean or rest our arms) has gone sticky and darkened. The wood is a golden colour. I have had a quote to have the table treated but it is cheaper to buy a new table. I think the original treatment was Swedish oil but I am not sure. What can I do to restore this table please