What Everyone Should Know About Finishing Oak

|Tim Hagger

Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.

A Little History of Oak

Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.

The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?

Acorns growing on an oak tree

Acorn of the mighty oak tree.

Treating Oak Wood

With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:

  • When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
  • The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
  • Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
  • The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Weathered oak with a grey-silver appearance

Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.

Traditional oak barrel

Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.

If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:

Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.

If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:

Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.

If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:

If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.

Unfinished oak panels

Unfinished oak.

Treated oak panels

Treated oak.

One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.

Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:

Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.

If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.

Oiling Consideration

If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.

Interesting Oak Stats

  • Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
  • Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
  • Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
  • Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
  • Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
  • A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!

Need help finishing a project made with oak?

For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great oak-related blogs to consider

469 comments

Hello,

I’ve bought essentially a large breakfast bar 2m x 1m x 40mm which I plan to use as a table top for an office desk. I’d like it to have a light finish rather than the darker orangy finishes

Would you be able to suggest the best type of finish for this purpose?

Thanks!

Warren

Warren •

Reply to Warren:

Hello Warren,

Thank you for the inquiry, the colour that you can achieve is very much dependent on the original colour of the wood. And what you can apply will depend on if you are treating bare wood or if there is already a finish on there.

If you are to be treating bare wood then you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/hard-wax-oil) range. This product is available in clear and coloured formulations with Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-tints) that colour and protect in one with just 2 thin coats. All of the Hard Wax Oils are available in sample sizes so that you can carry out test areas. I hope that helps and please let me know if there is any thing else you would like to know.

Kind Regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi I have a solid oak piece that i am using over a fireplace where there is a stove. It is approx a year and half matured and i want to sand it off a little first just to get rid of the dirt etc that is on it from storage and apply an oil or something to keep its natural look with no darkening or gloss. Can you please advise what i should do and use. It was recommended to me to use linseed oil or decking oil. What do you think? P.S i live in ireland so im hoping to be able to buy the product here.

Kind Regards
Julie

Julie Staunton •

Reply to Julie Staunton:

Hello Julie,

You could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening) from Fiddes, this is designed to leave the wood looking untreated but still offering a hard wearing protective treatment. Other oils may darken the wood slightly on application.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hello

I have oak doors,a oak kitchen, skirting boards and oak flooring in the bedrooms, it was stained about 6 months ago, its started to look a little dull, I don’t want to use spray polish, is there anything you can recommend please?

Kathryn

Kathy Richards •

Reply to Kathy Richards:

Hello Kathryn,

Could you tell me what the wood was stained with originally ? Generally speaking a Wax (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-wax) is a great product for bringing your wood back to life and will go on top of Varnish or oil finishes but it can make floors a little on the slippy side. I would prefer to know what product is currently on the wood before saying for sure what would be best – Sam

Sam Taylor-Casey •

I’ve just sanded an 150 year old oak parquet floor in my home. It has come up beautifully compared to the original dark warn finish. I’d like to had a hard wearing gloss finish not too dark. I’d like to use a yacht varnish as this gives maximum strength. Is there any reason why I should not use this finish for internal use?

Jonathan Lomas •

Reply to Jonathan Lomas:

Hello Jonathon,

I would not be able to recommend our Yacht Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/dulux-trade-clear-gloss-yacht-varnish) as this is for external use only and although many of our customers have used it for internal floors, I can recommend an alternative. Dulux Trade Diamond Glaze (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/dulux-trade-diamond-glaze-varnish) is a water based, low odour, extremely durable varnish that would be ideal for your floor. It comes in a Gloss finish and requires 2-3 coats. We also have some very good floor varnishes from Manns (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/manns-varnish) and Bona (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/bona-varnish) that are worth considering. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please let me know.

Kind Regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hey Sam,

I have new oak flooring with an oiled silver/grey finish, I would like to match this with brand new unfinished internal oak doors. Is there some way I can achieve this?

Kind regards
Jon

Jon •

Reply to Jon:

Hello Jon,

There are a number of products that you could have a look at that may create the effect you are looking for. The first is Osmo Oil Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-oil-stain) and is only recommended for use by professionals, it needs to be buffed into the wood and would need a top coat product such as Osmo Polyx Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil). The Osmo Wood Wax Finish Intensive (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-wax-finish-creativ) also has a grey finish called Pebble. And finally the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-colour-foundation) but look at the colours and not the names on this one. All of these come in samples sizes and need very thin application. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions do please let me know.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •
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