What Everyone Should Know About Finishing Oak

|Tim Hagger

Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.

A Little History of Oak

Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.

The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?

Acorns growing on an oak tree

Acorn of the mighty oak tree.

Treating Oak Wood

With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:

  • When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
  • The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
  • Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
  • The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Weathered oak with a grey-silver appearance

Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.

Traditional oak barrel

Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.

If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:

Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.

If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:

Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.

If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:

If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.

Unfinished oak panels

Unfinished oak.

Treated oak panels

Treated oak.

One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.

Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:

Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.

If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.

Oiling Consideration

If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.

Interesting Oak Stats

  • Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
  • Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
  • Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
  • Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
  • Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
  • A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!

Need help finishing a project made with oak?

For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great oak-related blogs to consider

469 comments

Hey Sam,

I just purchased an oak table that been sanded back and I was hoping to keep the natural look (as much as possible). However, the lady I purchased it off put a couple of coats of wax on it. Is it possible to re-sand and coat with he clear wax you have suggested in previous posts? or not that simple? Any chance of restoring back to natural shade I was hoping to maintain?

Thank you!

Caz

Carolyn •

Reply to Carolyn:

Hello Carolyn,

Worry not, you can remove the wax easily with Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/stripper) and some Woodleys Finishing Pads (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/woodleys-finishing-pads) this should remove most or all of the wax, you may need to give a light sand at this point and then you can proceed with applying the finish of your choice. If you would like any advice on which product to use and the application of, then please let me know – Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi Sam
I have some French oak riddling racks that I would like to seperate and hang on an outside exposed wall as a feature.I would like to keep their natural colour.I wouldn’t like the tannins from the rain ingress to stain the wall or concrete floor. A hard one but any ideas? Thanks Gary

Gary •

Reply to Gary:

Hi Gary,

If you sand back to bare wood then you could use Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-premier-wood-preservative) first as this will protect against mould, mildew and rot. And then a top coat of Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-uv-protection-oil) will make the wood water repellent help reduce the fading from the sun. I would love to see what you do, you can send photos to us if you would like.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Also! Do you do small quantities? The container you linked to would probably treat a small ship and my door is quite small ????
Thanks again
Hilary

Hilary •

Hi Sam,

Many thanks that’s very helpful. When is the best time to do this? As the mirror door is outside I m guessing not now!
Should I Wait for the spring?
The door is stuck to the mirror door and is therefore tricky to know how best to deal with in order not to spoil the mirror board? I guess lots of masking tape!
Thanks again

Hilary

Hilary •

Hello there,
We’ve just bought a solid oak kitchen table from harveys that arrives this week. It needs treating. The missus wants it to remain the same colour as in the showroom, (or as close as possible). Have read many of the earlier replies above, so have an idea what I am need. However in my kitchen the table will be in front of double glazed patio doors, with a large velux window directly above. The doors face West and so we get many hours of sunshine streaming in during the summer. Are up rays going to be a concern? What would you recommend, much obliged.
Marc

Marc •

Reply to Marc:

Hello Marc,

Thank you for your inquiry, it is fair to say that excessive sunlight will have an effect on the wood, causing it to fade and silver. You have 2 options here and both will fulfill one issue but not the other. The first product is Osmo Top Oil Natural (3068) (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-top-oil) this will leave the wood well protected against everyday use and will leave the wood as unaltered as possible. There is very little UV protection from this product however and you may need to apply regular coats to avoid the fading.

The alternative would be to go for the Osmo UV Protection Oil (410) (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-uv-protection-oil-410) this will give you the UV protection that you require ( although regular top ups may be necessary for excessive sunlight ) but it will darken the wood slightly, wiping a damp cloth over the bare wood will give you an indication of how much darker it will be. I hope this will help and if you have any further questions please let me know.

Kind Regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi there
I have an external illusion mirror on a brick wall in the garden. It is made from oak and is screwed and glued to mirror board..

It has been finished with external Danish oil containing uv protection.
The mirror went up in August 2015 and I ve noticed along a couple of the cross pieces a black discolouration is noticeable.

How can I get it off?

How can I prevent it?

With best wishes

Hilary

Many thanks for your help

Hilary •

Reply to Hilary:

Hello Hilary,

Black staining or discolouration on exterior wood is more often than not a mould that is a result of water penetration. We have a product for this called Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-fungicidal-wash-multicide). This will remove the black staining in the wood and kill off any mould spores present in the wood. This product is not a stripping product so any wood oil around the effected area will need to be removed with white spirit prior to treating the wood. Once done the frame can be re-oiled with Danish Oil or other suitable exterior wood oil. We always recommend doing a test area before starting any project.

Ideally, the frame should be stripped of oil, treated with the Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner, then treated with Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-premier-wood-preservative) in clear to help prevent future mould growth. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •
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