We get a steady stream of customers asking us for advice about using paint strippers and how to remove paint and varnish from wood. Here’s some practical information about stripping paint from wood, to help you choose the right product.
Fast and effective removal of paint using a paint stripper and scraper.
Removing Paint From Wood
You might be the lucky owner of a lovely period home, or have an old wood floor that you’re sure will come up beautifully with a bit of work. You may have found a fabulous piece of old furniture smothered with nasty, brown, shiny varnish that’s begging for some TLC, or you might suspect there’s something really special under all those layers of ancient paint on your doors. Whatever you want to do, first you’ll need to get all of that rubbish off the surface to reveal the stunning wood beneath. Thankfully, contemporary stripping products are relatively simple, effective and safe to use. Much better than the bad old days when your only choice was pure caustic soda, nasty stuff!
What Kinds of Wood Can You Strip?
You can strip any kind of wood with paint remover, even heavily carved wood, as long as you use the right products and materials and follow the instructions meticulously, particularly if you want to strip something expensive, rare or precious.
- Outdoor and indoor furniture
- Exterior and interior doors and door frames
- Stair rails and banisters
- Antique and vintage furniture
- Window frames and sills
- Floorboards
- Parquet flooring
- Built-in furniture
- Skirting boards
How to Remove Paint From Wood – 3 Ways
There are three ways of removing paint from wood: sanding, using a hot air gun and chemical paint strippers.
- Sanding is best kept for small projects unless you want to hire an industrial sander to remove paint and varnish from your floor. A quick word about sandpaper and wire wool, both of which can cause damage to wood unless you take it easy… When you sand wood, you take the surface off, and you need to do it as evenly as possible without rubbing it thin in places or creating gouges. Power tools help because their design forces you to apply even pressure. Whether you’re sanding by hand or with a machine, experts recommend you take it slow and easy until you get a feel for it. There’s plenty of good advice online about sanding wood to perfection, and some excellent guidance on the Period Property website.
- An electric hot air gun removes paint in no time but can scorch the wood if you’re not careful. Scorching is less important, of course, when you’re planning to repaint the wood. Bear in mind, also, that a hot air gun can only be used as a paint remover, not a varnish remover, as varnishes tend to go very gooey, almost glue-like, when heated.
- Chemical stripping is the best method for stripping carved wood with hard-to-reach, intricate areas, but in reality, you will probably use a combination of mechanical and chemical methods for your project, especially if you have layer upon layer of old paint to take off. Chemical paint removers deliver the best results, remove varnishes and paints faster than sanding, and tend to be the least harsh. Care needs to be taken when using chemical strippers, however, as these present their own care and safety issues.
As Kirstie Allsopp says on the Channel 4 Homes website:
“Chemical strippers, available from DIY stores, are good for intricately carved wood. You will need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions as these vary. Make sure you keep the area you’re working in well ventilated. Protect the floor with dust sheets or thick newspaper. To get a chemical stripper into nooks and crannies on intricate woodwork, use wire wool. Also, check the manufacturer’s instructions to see if you need to neutralise the stripped woodwork.”
Different Types of Chemical Wood Stripper
Solvent paint removers take off all kinds of finishes, even contemporary ones. They are usually very gentle on the wood and won’t damage it, which is why they’re used in the antique trade. There’s no discolouration and solvents get the wood cleaner, deeper down into the grain. On the downside, you tend to use more of it, so it can end up more expensive than a caustic stripper. Solvents can also have a strong odour and must only be used in very well-ventilated areas. Last of all, you might have to work a bit harder to remove heavy paint build-ups than with a caustic paint stripper. So to sum up, solvent strippers are:
- More expensive and messy to use
- Not so good at removing heavy paint
- Cause no damage or staining
- Can have a strong odour
- Give a cleaner, finer finish
- Perfect if you want that “natural look”
- The best product for stripping old, damaged items like beams
Caustic paint removers take off most finishes and are particularly good at getting rid of thick layers of paint and varnish. They give off fewer fumes than solvent-based paint strippers, are cheaper and tend to work faster. On the other hand, caustic products usually contain a very strong alkali which may react with chemicals in the wood, resulting in staining or scorching of the wood. This is more common with dense woods such as mahogany and some types of oak, especially old oak. In summary, caustic removers are:
- Perfect for removing heavy paint build-ups
- Great for complicated mouldings
- Best reserved for stripping pine doors that will be repainted or stained
- Best suited for use on plaster, stone and metal (Please note: They may not be suitable for aluminium)
What’s the best paint stripper for wood? You can always test drive a few different products to see which stripper best suits the job and matches your capabilities. Just carry out testing in inconspicuous areas and keep your test areas small.
Does the Paint You’re Stripping Contain Lead?
Most paints manufactured before 1960 contain lead, so if you’re stripping something older than that, it’s always wise to check. You can pick up a lead testing kit at your local decorating centre or DIY store.
If you find any lead, the British Coatings Federation has produced a leaflet about how to deal with it, which you can read here: “Old Lead Painted Surfaces – A Guide on Repainting and Removal for DIY and Professional Painters and Decorators”.
How Do Chemical Paint Strippers Work?
Chemical paint stripping and varnish stripping products partially dissolve the paint or varnish. You can buy paste and gel paint stripping products, which are handy because they’re so thick that they stick to vertical surfaces – perfect if the item you want to strip can’t be moved.
4 Steps to Stripping Paint From Wood
- Obviously, every product is slightly different. But as a general rule, your first step is to apply a thick layer of stripper with an old paintbrush you can throw away afterwards. Make sure you force the product into any carved, intricate areas. Don’t paint it on like emulsion, dollop it on generously, then work it into the surface.
- Step away! Different products work over different timescales. Leave it alone until the product has done its thing, according to the instructions.
- Once the paint has softened, scrape it off with a plastic or metal scraper. You can use steel wool to get rid of stubborn areas of paint or varnish, and old toothbrushes and wire brushes are also useful. Take care with metal scrapers when stripping wood so as to avoid scratching or gouging the wood when removing the paint or varnish.
- If there’s still some paint left, reapply the stripper and go through the process again until it’s all gone. Then, if the instructions tell you to, wash the stripped item to neutralise the active chemicals.
Paint Removal From Wood – Safety Recommendations
- Wear old clothes
- Chemical paint strippers give off fumes, some of which are toxic. If the instructions say you should only use it outdoors, then follow them
- Whatever product you use, it makes sense to wear gloves and a face mask
- To avoid causing damage to the surrounding area, lay old newspaper, a tarp or drop sheet underneath the item you’re working on
- Never leave the lid off – you don’t want fumes evaporating into your workspace
What Is the Best Paint Stripper and Varnish Remover to Use?
Paints and varnishes have evolved over the years, as have their formulations and chemical make-up. Paint strippers and removers have also had to evolve to keep pace with these new formulations. As a result, it’s often the case that where one type of stripper works perfectly with a modern paint formulation, it may be ineffective against an old paint or varnish from the 1960s or 70s. The same applies the other way round, where strippers that are effective against old paints may not be as effective on new paints and varnishes. So what is the answer?
Paint strippers and varnish removers are usually available in sample or small tin sizes of between 250 ml and 500 ml. Our recommendation is to buy a sample or small tin and to trial the effectiveness of a product before committing to buying the quantity of wood stripper needed for the project. This could save time and money in the long run.
We highly recommend Kling Strip. It’s one of the best wood strippers on the market for removing paint from brick, stone, plaster and cast iron. It’s a poultice paint stripper for removing thick layers of old paint, varnish and stains, sticking conveniently to vertical surfaces, and it can remove multiple layers in a single application when given sufficient dwell time.
We also love PeelAway 1 and PeelAway 7, which are both used to restore antiques and items like decorative or carved fireplaces, wooden or plaster coving, cornices and ceiling roses. The ‘Peel Away’ paint removal systems work by applying a poultice or paste over the painted areas. Left for a period of between 12 and 48 hours, the PeelAway poultice dissolves the many layers of paint accumulated over the years. The dried poultice is then removed with a spatula, pulling out the dissolved paint from deep detailing, nooks and crannies to restore the intricate detail and design of the original piece.
PeelAway 1 is better suited to paints from the 1970s and prior, the old-style metal and lead-based types. PeelAway 7 works better on modern paints, dating from the late 1970s onwards. For some projects, you might need to bring both into play, using PeelAway 7 on the newer layers and PeelAway 1 on the deeper layers. PeelAway 1 is caustic-based, so always try a test patch first. Remember, caustic-based strippers can scorch the surface of some woods, such as old oak and mahogany.
Fireplace awaiting treatment.
Fireplace after application of PeelAway 1. Photo credit: Rosie.
Both PeelAway products are available in a handy PeelAway 1 and 7 Sample Twin Pack, making it easier to test each product to find out which works best for your paint removal project.
All PeelAway products are supplied as a kit including an application spatula and protective blankets, to prevent the applied poultice or paste from drying out too quickly and before it has dissolved the paint or varnish. If required, extra PeelAway 1 Neutralizer and PeelAway 1 spare blankets, as well as PeelAway 7 spare blankets, are also available. These are useful if the protective blankets need to be cut to shape or into strips for metal pipes, table legs or other required shapes.
Beautiful, Clean, Stripped Wood… Revealed. What’s Next?
You’ve stripped it. Now it’s time to choose your wood finish. We have a huge selection of amazing products designed to breathe new life into your wood, whether it’s a gorgeous old floor, a splendid piece of antique or vintage furniture, a pine door or rococo picture frame.
Here are some ideas to help you get creative with your good-as-new wood:
- Polish it to a stunning mirror-like sheen with a deep-nourishing wood wax polish
- Colour it with a vast choice of superb wood stain shades
- Oil it with a clear or coloured wood oil
- Preserve it – essential for exterior wood; use a clear or coloured wood preserver
- Lacquer it with a high-quality wood lacquer
- Dye it with a water-based or solvent-based wood dye
- Repaint it – off with the old and on with the new. Choose a matt, satin or gloss interior or exterior wood paint
- Paint and distress it for a cool, shabby chic look with a matt emulsion, clay or chalk paint
Paint and varnish strippers aren’t the only removers we do. See our full range of paint, varnish, wax, stain and polish removers to find the product for your interior, exterior restoration or renovation project.
Need More Help With Paint Strippers?
We’d be delighted to help. Just contact our team of wood finishing experts. They’re always on hand to offer friendly help and advice.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your wood finishing project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
183 comments
Reply to Patricia:
Hello Patricia,
The easiest way to remove old paint, if it is peeling, is to use a pressure washer. This should remove most of the paint. An alternative, or if you don’t have a pressure washer is to use a paint stripper like Barrettine Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-paint-panther-paint-varnish-remover). This is a gel that will make the paint bubble up to be scrapped off. Once you have removed all the paint, your garage door will be ready for repainting with an exterior wood paint such as Ronseal 10 Year Weatherproof Wood Paint – Gloss (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/ronseal-10-year-weatherproof-wood-paint-satin). We would love to see some photos of the before and after of your garage door if you have time to send us some!! Many Thanks -Sam
Hi
We have a staircase that’s painted white but is now peeling off, and looking unsightly
I was thinking of stripping off the paint and applying yachting varnish to revive the staircase as the hallway lacks light, can you advise?
Reply to maureen:
Hello Maureen,
We have a couple of good quality removers, the first being the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-paint-panther-paint-varnish-remover), which is a gel that you leave on for around 5 minutes and it makes the paint bubble up making it easy to scrap off, this is probably more suitable if you need to be able to use the stairs. The alternative is the Peelaway 1 and 7 Sample Twin Pack (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-peelaway-1-and-7-sample-twin-pack), which is a poultice that you need to leave on for around 24/48 hours (a test area will give a true indication of how long). Once you have removed all the paint you may want to give the stairs a light sand, but if the wood is in good condition just make sure it is clean and smooth and then you can apply your finishing coat.
We have a wide range of Varnishes that you can use on the stairs and I would recommend the Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-floor-varnish), which is a durable and protective Varnish that will last really well. And it comes in a number of sheen levels and is non yellowing.
Hi KT,
I have an old factory/industrial cart that I am restoring/re-purposing as a coffee table. The cart is oak and has been painted gray. I have started removing the paint with a heat gun/scraper and noticed the original markings are in the wood underneath. Looks like they are stained into the wood. I am not able to get all of the brushed on paint off by scraping. What should I use to remove the brushed on paint without taking off the original marking?
Reply to Josh L:
Hello Josh,
We have two removal products that you could use for taking off the paint but I wouldn’t like to say if they will have an effect on the markings underneath, only a test area will show this. The Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-paint-panther-paint-varnish-remover) is a gel designed to make the paint bubble up so it can be scrapped off, I would try this one first as it is a 5 minute treatment. And the PeelAway 1 and 7 Sample Twin Pack (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-peelaway-1-and-7-sample-twin-pack) allows you to do a test area with either of the Peelaway products. I would re iterate that a small test area with these products to see if the do have an effect on the markings underneath. If you don’t want to risk using either of these products then your best bet may be to carefully sand back the effected areas as this will give you more control over how much you can take off.
Hi there
I just got myself a Victorian hall chair in an auction and I want to restore the wood finish. I have been told it’s oak, it has very intricately carved feastures and a lot of barley twist, and it’s faded/patchy in some places and dark in others. I would like to strip it back to a uniform colour and wax it. I don’t know if it’s been varnished or waxed previously – some parts have a shine to them.
Can you advise?
Thanks!
Reply to KT:
Hello KT,
Its worth trying a couple of things to see what the product is that is on the chair. Firstly you could do an Oil test, this can be done with a few drops of Olive oil or Vegetable oil out of the kitchen cupboard. Leave the drops on the wood for about an hour, if it unmoved after that time it is probable that you have a seal such as a Varnish on there. If it soaks in even just a little then it may be a Wax or Oil on the chair which can be removed with some White Spirit and then given a light sand in preperation for a new treatment. If you find that it is a Varnish on the chair you could try the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-paint-panther-paint-varnish-remover), which is designed to make the paint/varnish bubble up so that it can be scrapped off.
Once you are back to bare wood, if you want to wax it then the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-wax) is a good option for restoring character and dries in about 10 mins.
Hello there,
I wonder if you could advise me before I set out on this. We have been renting out our cottage in the countryside that has beautiful original features. Unfortunately at the end of the tenant’s lease we have returned to find the once stunning white bedrooms with black beams have had a bit of a makeover. The rooms have been transformed with a very haphazard application of lilac and lime green emulsion – beams included!
We would like to restore the rooms to their former glory. Is there a good way to strip back just the emulsion; we were happy with the black finish or do we need to take it all off?
Kind regards – Tanya
Reply to Tanya:
Hello Tanya,
Oh dear, lilac and lime green does not sound like and attractive combination on your beams. We have a couple of removal products that can be used to strip back the paint but I would be worried that the Black treatment that is underneath may be affected as well. So the first thing to try is to score the emulsion and then get some steam to it. The idea of this is that it will soften the Emulsion allowing you to carefully scrap it off, I can’t guarantee that this will work because it is a little dependent on the type of Emulsion.
If you do find that you need to use a stripper then there are two options the first is the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-paint-panther-paint-varnish-remover). This product is designed to make the paint bubble up so that you can scrap it off or there is the PeelAway 7 Paint Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-peelaway-7), which is a paste like consistency and you leave on for a period of up to 48 hours and then peelaway the all the layers in one go. You would need to do a test area with both of these product to get an idea firstly of how long you would need to leave them on for and secondly how effective the will be on the Emulsion and the Black treatment that is underneath. I hope you are able to get it sorted – Good Luck.
Hi There,
I hope you can help with my problem before I end up sanding the whole door away.I was given a partly stripped edwardian interior door as a project,but it is the first time I have tried anything like this.It had been stripped with a heat gun (I know!!!) and partly sanded.Using a mouse sander I am trying to remove all the little bits that remain,but the whole door has patches that when sanded rather a lot produce a lovely wood underneath,but the sanding seems excessive.I was wondering if this could be an old varnish type paint,as the door seemed to have a mock graining effect on it?Am I ok to just sand away this coating,or will the varnish have seeped too deep into the wood?I am hoping to varnish the door when stripped,I just love the look of the wood and the old fashioned way of using whole panels of wood,not the knotty planks that are used today!Any advice would be great.Much thanks!!