Of all the types of flooring available, wood with the perfect finish is still the most popular. And oak floorboards are gorgeous as well as fashionable. But pine wood flooring is another strong contender in the beauty stakes, a softwood that’s been used to make floorboards for centuries and a feature of many old homes across Britain.
Pine Log Rounds – from antiquewoodnews.com
Vintage Pine Floorboards
We’ve taken several long, detailed looks at oak flooring, furniture and doors. Now it’s time to explore the wonderful world of pine. If you have a pine floor that needs attention, or you’ve been tasked with getting one in apple-pie order for someone else, here’s everything you need to know.
Types of pine
Pine, also sometimes called redwood, is cheaper and more common than traditional hardwoods, ranging from almost white through various yellow shades to a deep, rich red. For a softwood, it’s often remarkably resilient and long-lasting, especially in the context of well-looked-after pine floors.
Pinus is the species we see most in UK and EU plantations. It’s useful for all sorts of utility work, a common wood for beams, flooring and structural purposes. But that’s just the start of it. There are a whole load of different types of pine trees found in the wild, so many in fact that the Wood Database website’s impressively long list is far too detailed to repeat here.
If you’re interested in the similarities and differences between soft pines and hard pines, and those within each group, you can’t beat the Wood Database pine page, an excellent resource.
Horses for courses – The pine flooring aesthetic
There’s a variety of flooring ideas and opinions concerning keeping wooden floors looking good. Some concerns involve floor maintenance, as some floors require little in the way of maintenance, while others require plenty of elbow grease and attention. And the choice is often a matter of aesthetics.
One of the best things about wood flooring is that it changes, going through all sorts of fascinating stages over time, depending on its type and location, with an equally wide range of end results. And every stage of the ageing process has its own beauty.
You might love the hundred-year-old (or much older) patina your old pine boards have acquired through generations of wear. It might be stained and dirty, uneven and bent, sometimes more or less black. But to you it’s perfect – a living piece of history marking decades or even centuries of human use. And that’s fine. If it has lasted this long in one piece, it might well last a great deal longer without falling apart on you.
Eastern White Pine Cabin Interior
Your floor might be reasonably worn, partway between new and aged. You might adore the effect – the real shabby chic ideal – or you may prefer to get rid of the muck and repair any damage, giving it a whole new lease of life as well as a smooth, contemporary look.
A brand-new pine floor, on the other hand, can look pretty raw. The paler it is, the newer and less settled-in it looks. You might want to use a wood dye to create a subtler, less in-your-face effect, calming the brightness down a bit, and if it hasn’t already been protected, you’ll want to add a finishing oil or good-quality varnish.
How pine changes over time
The colour is one thing. The condition of old pine floors is another. Old boards can cup or arch over time, each board curling up at the edges, which means when you try to sand them you tend to get a thin sanded strip down the middle of each board at the high point, which widens on each pass of the sander as the boards are slowly levelled by the sanding process.
When you sand old pine boards back to the wood, they can look very pale, even colourless. But don’t worry. The minute you apply a clear wood finishing product like an oil or varnish, that warm, attractive natural golden colour will come flooding through.
Testing the colour of your floorboards before finishing them
This change in colour is so dramatic that it’s usually best to test how it’ll look finished before choosing an oil or varnish. Luckily it’s easy. All you do is rub the surface with a damp – not wet – cloth and you get the exact same effect as oiling or varnishing – the colour suddenly shines through. Once you know what’s what, you can choose your finish: either something to enhance the natural colour or a colourless product.
What if you want to get rid of that bright orange/gold colour?
Orange or golden pine isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. And that’s the effect you can get from a standard clear oil or varnish – as time passes it can turn a deeper orange/gold, even a nasty brown. If your pine floor has gone a funny colour, you can always sand the old finish off and replace it with a product that won’t change colour as it ages.
If you’re looking to retain the natural appearance of freshly sanded boards, pine or oak, Osmo Polyx Oil Raw and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural are both great products for defusing and countering the gold/orange colour you sometimes get.
- Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) is made with natural oils and waxes, gives excellent protection and durability and is specifically formulated to retain the ‘natural’ look of wood. It counteracts the damp-looking darkening effect and grain enhancement you typically get with standard clear oils or varnishes.
- Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural also keeps wood looking as natural and unaltered in colour as possible and dries to a clear, satin-matt finish. It’s perfect for light-coloured woods like pine, spruce and oak.
Osmo Polyx Oil
Pine wood floor refinishing – Varnish or oil?
What’s best, an oil or a varnish? The protective qualities are much the same. But oil and varnish come with different types of maintenance, and to a great extent your choice depends on the amount of wear and tear the floor receives.
- Using a wooden floor varnish tends to provide better durability and less maintenance, but you’ll need to re-sand the entire floor back to bare wood when the varnish eventually gets damaged and worn. How long this takes depends on the type and quality of the varnish and how much wear your floor is subjected to. It could be every year if you have pets, visitors and kids running in and out all the time. It could be five years or more if your home life is a lot quieter or you’ve covered the floor with rugs.
- Using a wooden floor oil, on the other hand, requires maintenance, usually every couple of years, but it won’t flake, crack or peel off. It looks better than varnish as it begins to wear and is very easy to patch repair if it becomes worn in specific areas, unlike varnish. When an oiled floor starts to look like it’s past its best, simply clean with a suitable floor cleaner to remove any marks, scuffs or stains, then reapply a thin coat of oil, and “Voilà!” it’s just like new again. Even bad scuffs, stains, marks and light scratches can be fixed by lightly sanding the area and reapplying a fresh coat of oil.
A tough varnish, by the way, won’t make the flooring itself hard. If you drop something heavy on the floor, the wood will still dent even though the varnish stays intact.
We have put together this handy video helping you to understand the key difference between a varnish and oil, as well as application techniques.
Need help with your pine floorboards?
For more information about interior floor finishes and treatments, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
217 comments
Hi,
I’m currently sanding my old pine floorboards that we’re last varnished 14 years ago. I’ve had an extension built where I’ve gone for oak effect ceramic tiles which meet the old floor boards in the centre of the new room. I’m planning on staining them to bring the colour more in line with the new tiles but I’m unsure what the best finish will be. Do I go for a clear varnish or should I go for a wax or oil finish? There are areas which will get much more wear than the majority of the rest of the floor but I think it will kill me if I need to resand the whole floor in another 15 years!
Reply to Mary:
Good Afternoon Mary,
It would be fair to say that a varnish will last longer than an oil, but you are right it is harder to maintain and repair over time, with the need to sand back. An Oil will not last as long as a varnish, however once applied can easily be maintained with refresher coat or patch repairs for well worn areas, with out the need to strip back to bare wood each time.
I would recommend sample sachets to try test area first as the type, age and condition of the wood will impact on the colour and finish that will be achieved. The Blanchon Hard Wax Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/blanchon-hard-wax-oil-tints) will be a good place to start, these are oils that penetrate the surface of the wood and will give colour and protection and have a range of natural tones to choose from.
If you take a look at those and feel free to come back to me if you have any questions.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello Everyone
Please I have to cover an area in my flat with carpet. There is pine wood boards at the moment and I wonder which is the best underlay to put that will not affect the wood in the future if we remove the carpet (we have to put carpet for management building rules). Please do you have any ideas? Thank you.
Kind regards,
Susanna
Reply to SUSANNA 3:
Good Afternoon Susanna,
Its not questions I have had before and if I am honest I do not know the best answer to give you. It will be worth discussing with the carpet supplier if any glues are to be used, how these may impact on the wood. And it would be fair to say that being starved of air and oxygen for a period of time could have some impact on the wood, however many restored floors have been covered with carpets for years and have successfully been refurnished to a natural finish.
I wish I could be of more help on this, but I suspect that the y key issue will be any adhesive used.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi Sam,
I am having wide pine floors installed into my bedroom which now has carpet. The installer is having the pine wood delivered to my house next Tuesday and won’t be starting the installation until a week and a half later. My question is, does it really need to sit in my house that long to acclimate before he starts work on the floors? I ask because we are in the middle of a remodel and that amount of wood sitting in my hallway is going to take up A LOT of space and will be hard to get around. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks very much!
Reply to Dawn Sneade:
Hello Dawn,
There could be a lot of factors to consider that include the type age and condition of the wood, where it has been stored previous to being in your hallway and ideally getting used to the temperature in your house is a good thing, all that said, a week is not long to acclimatize, depending on the size and thickness of the boards. And so the it is not really going to be of much benefit. And the wood will still shift, swell and shrink naturally over long periods anyway.
I would not advice moving the wood to an exterior area, a week, again will not make much difference however exposure to cold, damp or moisture exterior areas or garden out building will not be of benefit.
For further advice please feel free to call and speak to one of our advisers on 01303 213 838.
Kind regards Samantha
I’ve been using OSMO Polyx oil on exterior fir doors for many years. Lately, the parts of the door that receive the most sun exposure are turning white(ish). The white appears to be the oil itself. What can I do? And should I start using a different product? Thanks.
Reply to Lynn Dorsett:
Good Afternoon Lynn,
Can you send some photos of the area and the whole door to wfd.advice@wood-finishes-direct.com and I will take look for you to see if I can see what the problem is and how to rectify. If you can include details of actual product, date of application and method and anything else you feel may be relevant.
Many Thanks Samantha.
I just pulled up carpeting on my parent’s 97 yr old home on stairs going upstairs, the landing and one bedroom. The pine floors are original to the home and have never been sanded or finished. There is another bedroom of pine floors that has been sanded and stained that we will be redone also. I received 2 estimates from floor sanders—One estimate wants to apply 2 coats of oil base polyurethane after sanding. The other estimate wants to apply 1 coat of Natural oil stain, 1 coat of sealer and a water based finish. I don’t know which application is correct for a pine floor. The downstairs already has oak floors stained Natural and polyurethaned. Any advice on what should be done on floors. The house is being prepared before being put up for sale. Thank you for your help.
Reply to Debbie:
Good Afternoon Debbie,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. On oil based on Pine may give quite an orange result whereas the water based may change the colour of the pine less., Although the combination of Natural Oil Stain, followed by Sealer, and then a water based finish is not one I am familiar with, it could simply be the system required for a particular brand used.
Ideally you should get them you show you a test area of the finish, I know many contractors won’t do this but its the best way to get an idea of which finish you prefer and as Pine can sometimes be unpredictable , particularly older Pine.
In terms of durability, its difficult to say with out knowing the products they are using but water based finishes are pretty much equal to the older traditional oil based products now and can stand up to every day use very well, and over time may be easier to deal with down the line.
I am not sure I have been much help but feel free to get in touch with any further questions via the contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
Kind Regards Samantha.