What Everyone Should Know About Finishing Oak

|Tim Hagger

Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.

A Little History of Oak

Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.

The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?

Acorns growing on an oak tree

Acorn of the mighty oak tree.

Treating Oak Wood

With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:

  • When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
  • The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
  • Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
  • The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Weathered oak with a grey-silver appearance

Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.

Traditional oak barrel

Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.

If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:

Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.

If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:

Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.

If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:

If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.

Unfinished oak panels

Unfinished oak.

Treated oak panels

Treated oak.

One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.

Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:

Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.

If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.

Oiling Consideration

If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.

Interesting Oak Stats

  • Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
  • Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
  • Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
  • Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
  • Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
  • A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!

Need help finishing a project made with oak?

For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great oak-related blogs to consider

469 comments

Reply to Jessica:

Hello Jessica,

In truth both options are correct, you can wait for it to age naturally , although in the mean time your current cabinets will also continue to age. Or you can try to colour match by staining, which could involve a little experimentation with some water based stains ( which are easy to remove if wrong )

It is also true to say that it very difficult to match up two woods, even if they are from the same type of tree, they can still be very different in colour and grain.

If you would like to send in some photos to our email address helpme@wood-finishes-direct.com and one of our experts can take a proper look and offer some more advice.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

My pal has planed off the drawer fronts of an oak map cabinet,but has been unable to remove the patchy appearance of the material. He wants a consistent golden finish. At present it looks as if it has been very unevenly sanded. Possibly this due to either the penetration of the original dark finish or spalting. I suggested either liming paste or failing that going over with a blowtorch! But do you have any advice?
Apologies if you have dealt with this already. Thanks in anticipation
Philip Davies

Philip Davies •

Reply to Philip Davies:

Hello Philip,
Its difficult to give a definitive answer on this one with out seeing the cabinet itself, but if there is some previous product left on there that is causing the staining then you may need to try a removal product such as Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-paint-panther-paint-varnish-remover) or spend some more time sanding the surface. If you would like to send some photos in to us at helpme@wood-finishes-direct.com so we can a better idea of how to advise you that would be great.

Kind Regards

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi there,
We recently fitted oak work tops in our kitchen, we had them pre treated before they arrived, we have found that if they are getting wet the area is going pale and rough in texture, any idea why this is? In addition anything wet leaves a mark even if it’s cold. We have only fitted them a couple of weeks ago and Have sanded and are oiling regularly with sadolin. Any tips really appreciated, could the roughness when water spilt be indicative off poor quality.
Thank you Sarah

Sarah malone •

Reply to Sarah malone:

Hello Sarah,

This is a fairly common query which points to insufficient oiling. Wood that doesn’t have enough oil in the surface is not water repellent or durable enough. An oil test will help you gauge how much oil is in the wood and whether the wood is still ‘thirsty’. Any oil can be used but most require 3-5 initial coatings plus a fresh coat every 3-6 months approx. Hard wax oils such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil) are better because you only need 2 initial coatings with a fresh coat every 1-2 years approx. The downside is they cost more. Back to the ‘oil test’ then… It involves oiling the wood (ensuring oil is well worked in using thin applications). You can then drop some more oil on to test areas and wait an hour or so to see what happens. If the oil starts to sink in the wood is still thirsty, if the oils beads (like water on glass) then the wood is well oiled. In short your wood will never be sufficiently protected until you have a successful ‘oil test’. It is also important that you don’t ‘over oil’ your wood as excess oil forms a skin that is easily marked. Well worked in and thin applications is the order of the day.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi Nick,
I have a lovely golden oak kitchen with surface mounted hinges. I want to remove these but the wood underneath is darker due to the sun & time. How do I remove these darker marks where the hinges have been?
Thank you
Mary

Mary •

Reply to Mary:

Hello Mary,

It will be easier for you to bring the lighter part of the wood up to match the dark area of your wood. It can be tricky to lighten wood and difficult to get the colour that you wish to achieve. Using a Stain such as Manns Classic Oak Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-oak-wood-stain) and top coat finishing product you can bring your wood up to the original colour. I hope this helps.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi there – I have an untreated oak sideboard and actually want it to develop that slightly blackened/greyed look that oak gets when left outside – short of leaving it out in the rain can you help please? Failing that will leaving it out in the rain work and for how long!
Many thanks

Justine Lewis •

Reply to Justine Lewis:

Hello Justine,

It would not be wise to leave the sideboard out in the rain, it may achieve the desired colour after a time but the wood will get damaged, warped and effected by mould and mildew. I would recommend trying a stain to achieve the desired colour. You could try the Manns Classic Oak Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-oak-wood-stain) in a watered down Ebony. If this is too dark it would be worth trying the Manns Classic Pine Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-pine-wood-stain) in Driftwood. Both these stains are water based and so could have water added to lighten the colour and then you would need to seal both these products with a Varnish or Hard wax Oil, and it is worth noting that this will darken the colour as well. It may take a little bit of experimenting and test areas to get the right finish but it is achievable. Hope this helps.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi, I am making two adirondack chairs out of English oak for the patio. Thanks for your article on finishing which has given me confidence about the tannin staining.
Could you advise if special care needs to be given to any knots in the timber? I can try and avoid any when cutting but there may be some I cant avoid.
Thanks, Jon

Jon •
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