Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A Little History of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?
Acorn of the mighty oak tree.
Treating Oak Wood
With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:
- When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.
Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3–5 coats of high-quality tung oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- Followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.
Unfinished oak.
Treated oak.
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:
- If an oiled finish is preferred, then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred, then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
469 comments
good evening i rubbed down all my oak window frames to remove the o;d brown stain just sand paper and hard work no chemicals but now i just want a clear light golden Finnish but every time i put on a osmo oil or varnish the wood turns very dark.i also bleached one window frame but still the same effect when applying a product is there anything out there that will not change the colour from a light golden colour to a dark stain many thanks mr lee flint
Reply to lee flint:
Hello Mr Flint,
There is a product that is designed to keep the wood looking as Natural as possible called Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil-raw-3044) if you have a wood that’s Natural colour is particularly affected by oil, there may still be some minimal darkening, but this is the best product to use. Always do a test area first.
Thanks for the advice, Sam!
Hi Sam,
We are in the middle of converting a barn and so now the high old beams will appear in bedrooms and I am wondering how to clean them. My main concern is what to do about the shakes (the horizontal gaps in the wood – don’t know if I’ve used the right word!). They have a lot of dust and debris in them. Can I fill them with something or would it be better to leave them as they are? I thought I would gently clean the beams with a duster and damp cloth and then beeswax them but I’m not sure how to clean out the shakes.
Thanks for your help!
Sarah
Reply to Sarah Clarke:
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for your inquiry. ‘Shakes’ is the right term for those horizontal gaps in the beams. If you can find a long bristled soft brush to get as much of the dust and debris out as possible and then filling the gaps will be down to personal preference. Many people do like the character that they add to the beams and leave them unfilled. But I guess it will depend on the overall look of the room, that you are trying to achieve.If you do decide to use a filler you may need to build it up in layers if some of the gaps are quite big. A good filler to use would be the Osmo Interior Wood Filler (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-filler) or the Bona Mix and Fill (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/bona-mix-fill) The only thing to watch out for is if you do leave them and apply beeswax, just have a cloth or brush handy to remove the build up of wax that can leave a white residue that can build up in the cracks and crevices. And of course we would love to see some photo if you get a chance, you can send them to helpme@wood-finishes-direct.com
We steel woolen our oak table and finished it with Old English stain and scratch remover. After a week, it is still seeping out of the grain.
We use this table every day. Is ther something we can finish it with that would be better? The table is 20 years old mad by the Amish
Gail sinito
Reply to Gail Sinito:
Hello Gail,
I am not sure about the scratch remover as I have not heard of this being used to protect a table before. If you could give me a bit more information about this product and what it contains, then I would be able to advise you correctly. If you are able to strip the table back to bare wood then I would advice using a Hard Wax Oil product such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-tints) this is a colour and protection in one product. And can easily be maintained by adding coats or patch repaired. Thank you for your inquiry.
Thanks Sam!
All ordered so will get the soaking process underway whilst we finish digging, I will be sure to send some photos!
Cheers for your help
Hi Sam,
We have bought some green oak sleepers to use as a small (approx 80cm) retaining wall, we plan to use halfs as up rights dug into the ground.
We have been told that there is no need to treat them but after reading through all the posts and replies it would seem foolish not to treat these to protect against the mould and rot mentioned by other outdoor users! Would the barretine wood preserved be best for this?
Although I bought them with the intention of them silvering now they are here I would like to keep the blonde look! Typical! I see you have recommended the osmo uv protection to others for this effect and would this need to be continually applied, say each year?
Also I will just mention that they will be in afternoon sun and the soil here is quite a high clay content so quite moist!
Cheers in advance!!
Reply to Helen:
Hello Helen,
As you haven’t yet put the sleepers in situ it would be worth treating them to help prolong their live. Getting as much preservative into the wood is only going to be a good thing and if you where able to stand the sleepers in a tub of the preservative for a while in order for the wood to soak it up this would be a good option. If this isn’t possible then a number of applications would be advisable. The Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-premier-wood-preservative) will give protection against mould, mildew, rot and wood boring insects for a good few years, but obviously once in the ground you will not be able to treat the bottoms again.
You can however treat the exposed areas and once the preservative is done you need to apply the Top Oil, the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-uv-protection-oil) that you asked about is exactly the right product for this and you can simply add maintenance coats yearly or Bi yearly when you feel that the sleepers need it. At about the 8/10 year stage you may want to strip the oil off and re coat with preservative. We would love to see some photos of the completed project if you get a chance to send some in to helpme@wood-finishes-direct.com