Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A Little History of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?
Acorn of the mighty oak tree.
Treating Oak Wood
With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:
- When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.
Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3–5 coats of high-quality tung oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- Followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.
Unfinished oak.
Treated oak.
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:
- If an oiled finish is preferred, then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred, then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
469 comments
Reply to Jon:
Hello Jon,
If you are worried about the knots weeping Tannin we do a Sealer called Manns Trade Shellac Sanding Sealer (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-trade-shellac-sanding-sealer) ,you can use this one if you intend to Varnish your chairs, this product can be used to seal knots and in fill minor scratches, it will help to prevent Tannin staining. If however you are planning to use an Oil to finish the Oak then it is not advisable to use the Shellac Sealer as it will prevent the Oil from being absorbed. Hope that helps – Sam
Hi Sam, thanks for your feedback.
You are correct the weatherboard hasn’t been treated.
We are happy for the oak to turn silvery as time goes on, we just want to protect it for the black marks and cracks, so would we still need the osmo-uv-protection oil?
Ultimately we want the oak to remain in good condition for many years to come but are happy for it to take the silvery effect. So anything you can suggest would be much appreciated
Thanks
Martina
Reply to Martina Keep:
Hi Martina,
The Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-log-cabin-treatment) is a good cost effective product that doesn’t have UV protection in it.As you are happy for the natural silvering to occur I would still suggest using an Oil after the Preservative, the preservative can be used as a stand alone product with regular maintenance will keep the wood protected, but for the best level of protection for your wood I would still recommend applying an Oil as this will make the wood water repellent. By keeping the wood as water repellent as possible you will avoid that black mould from re appearing at a later date.
Hi there, I’ve came across the site and hoping you can help!
In November last year we had some oak weatherboarding applied to each end of our property. For the first few months it looked great but fast forward to today and the oak has all dark marks appearing and has prominent cracks appearing, to say we are upset is an understatement! We were never told anything by the Chippie who applied the oak on how to clean, protect it etc
We don’t really have the budget to replace the wetter boarding so am wondering on what we can do to firstly get rid of the black marks and clean it, protect it from happening again and also what we can do to protect it from cracking. I understand that this happens with timber, but not after a few months!
Any help on what we can do would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Martina
Reply to Martina Keep:
Hello Martina,
The first question to ask is if you know whether the boarding has any treatment on, it sounds like it doesn’t. And because of this you have what is possibly Black Mould that is a result of Water ingress. To treat this you could use Barretttine Mould and Mildew Cleaner (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-fungicidal-wash-multicide) and then I would recommend a full treatment with Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-premier-wood-preservative) as this will protect against mould, mildew, wood boring insects and much more. Then a top coat of Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-uv-protection-oil) , this will nourish and protect the wood. It will not get rid of the cracks as such, you may want to fill those but it will improve the look of the wood and prevent any further silvering. You can do a maintenance coat of the Oil when you feel it needs it in years to come with out having to worry about removing the previous treatment.
We’ve had an pergola erected in the garden a few weeks ago. The oak was already black in places before it was erected. We are about to have it bleached with oxalic acid to remove the black marks. It is south facing and we want it to develop a silver hue over time. We had understood that this is best achieved by leaving it alone and not applying any products (advice given by a company displaying oak benches and tables at the Chelsea Flower Show) Once the pergola is bleached following the application of oxalic acid what is to stop it blackening going forward? Do we need to apply products to prevent further blackening occurring and if so how do we best achieve a mature silvery hue and not change the colour of the oak?
Any advice on what to do or not to do would be gratefully received! Many thanks in advance! Wendy
Reply to Wendy:
Hello Wendy,
Once you have managed to deal with the Black marks, you can just use a clear preservative such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-premier-wood-preservative) this will protect the wood from mould, mildew, rot and much more. It will not however protect against the effects of the sun, which is what causes the wood to naturally silver. You may want to put a top coat of Oil on to give the wood some water repellency, but one with no UV Protection in it such as the Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-log-cabin-treatment) is the best option. But you would need to retreat every few years (dependant on the weather ) with the Oil, or with the preservative if you don’t use the Oil. Hope this helps -Sam
We have had two oak posts erected externally in our new porch area. How do we protect them from the weather whilst maintaining the lovely natural colour and finish of the wood?
Reply to Sue K:
hello Sue,
We always recommend that you use a Preservative first, for any external project. Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-premier-wood-preservative) in a Clear Finish, this will protect against Mould, mildew, wood boring insect and much more. Then for a top coat product to keep the wood water repellent and help prevent against fading and silvering in the sun, Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is an ideal product to use. Both these products are clear but the Oil will darken the wood slightly when applied. You can get an idea of how much by wiping a Damp ( not wet ) cloth on the bare wood.
Thanks Sam,
Very helpful, will get products ordered soon…
T.