In this video, Jay from Wood Finishes Direct will explain what you should consider before purchasing Osmo Polyx Oil. However, this advice is also suitable for other hard wax oils, such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil.
Hard Wax Oil FAQ
Do wood oils dry or remain greasy?
Wood oils penetrate into the surface fibres of the wood, where they oxidise with the air and harden. The result is a finish that is dry and non-greasy, so will not stain or mark clothing or soft furnishings. If a wood oil does remain sticky or greasy, it has been over-applied.
What is the advantage of using wood oil?
Wood oils help to protect and preserve interior and exterior wood by feeding the timber to keep it nourished and supple. They are the easiest of all wood finishes to maintain and repair. A patch repair, for example, where a scuff, scratch, stain or area of wear has occurred, can be easily fixed by simply sanding the affected area and applying more wood oil.
Can I apply wood oil over varnish?
In short, no. Varnish is a coating-type product that coats the wood with a plastic shell or skin. Wood oils work by penetrating into the wood but can’t with a varnish covering the wood grain. All varnish coatings need to be fully removed by sanding before an oil can be applied.
Before You Buy – Osmo Polyx Oil Transcript
Hi, I’m Jay from Wood Finishes Direct. In this video, I’m going to be highlighting the key things you should consider before starting your project with the Osmo Polyx Oil range. First off, what is it?
Osmo Polyx Oil is the original hard wax oil, a combination of natural oils and waxes for use on almost any interior project. Hard wax oil is almost as hard as a varnish but easier to repair. All you need is a rag to apply the oil over the affected areas without having to remove any previous finish.
Let me show you a very simple test called the water test. All you need is a drop of water. Apply a drop to the wood and leave for 30 seconds. Easy, right? If the water beads, then you know there is an existing finish on there. If the water sinks in, this would indicate that there is an untreated surface, so you can move straight on to application.
It’s always a great idea to start with the best canvas possible. Sand your wood through the grits up to P120. This is a fine sand on bare timber in preparation for finishing, not suitable for removing varnish or paint. Always sand with the grain of the wood to avoid scratch marks.
What’s the deal with clear? A clear product suggests it doesn’t change the colour of the wood, but it actually does. Clear Polyx Oil will bring out the natural tone and patina of the wood, enhancing the grain and making it appear darker, giving it what we call the “wet look”.
If this isn’t for you, then we recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw 3044. This will lessen the wet look on lighter timbers such as oak or pine. Raw gets mixed results on hardwoods, especially darker hardwoods, as it contains white pigment. If you are looking to change the colour of your wood, then you can go across to the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints, which come in a range of colours. The whole Polyx Oil range comes in handy 5 ml sachets to do your test areas before purchasing a bigger tin.
Over-application isn’t uncommon with Polyx Oil but is avoidable by using the P.A.R.S.E. method:
- Prepare properly – sand the wood to P120
- Apply thinly – always working with the grain
- Remove excess – using a microfibre cloth
- Sand lightly – abrade the surface with a finishing pad once dry
- End coat – apply and leave to dry
Nice and easy!
Without following the P.A.R.S.E. method, over-application issues you may face are:
- A sticky-feeling surface
- Longer drying times
- A patchy finish
- Product pooling on the surface
The last thing to consider is sheen! Sheen refers to the amount of light the finish reflects from the surface. Contrary to popular belief, this does not have any influence over durability.
- Matt – gives you a flat matt look and feel
- Semi Matt – a slight sheen added to the wood for those who don’t want dead matt
- Satin – the halfway house between matt and gloss
- Gloss – gives the light a good surface to reflect off
Do you need further technical assistance or advice on your project? Why not put us to the test by messaging us or giving us a call? Links to all the products used are in the description on YouTube. We hope you enjoyed the video. Don’t forget to like and subscribe for future content.
47 comments
Reply to Karmen:
Hi Karmen,
The clear version of this product will enrich the natural colours in the grain and make the Ash look as it does when it is wet. If you rub a damp cloth on the surface of the wood this will show you exactly how the wood will look with a clear oil applied. The finish won’t yellow over time but the wood can natural oxidise under the finish. This can appear yellow. Using a product with a UV filter will delay this process dramatically. Please consider this product;
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/polyvine-wood-oil
Greetings— I have an oak butcher block kitchen island. Can I use the poly tints with the Osmo Top Oil? I am looking for a bit more color than clear, but I wasn’t sure if I could mix and match products.
Thanks!
Reply to Tracy:
Good Morning Tracy,
Thank you for your enquiry. Yes, as long as you only apply 2 coats of oil in total; you can either apply 2 coats of the tinted oil. Alternatively you can apply 1 coat of the tinted oil followed by 1 coat of the clear Top Oil.
I hope this helps!
I used Osmo Polyx Oil in matte on an oak floor. Now that the floor has had a chance to dry I am sort of regretting not getting a bit more shine on it. I have already applied both coats. Is there a product I can apply on top or do I need to sand off what is there and start over? Thanks.
Reply to Nathan:
Hi Nathan,
There is only enough room in the grain for 2 coats of Polyx in total. If more than 2 coats of oil are applied then the 3rd coat would sit on the surface of the wood rather than penetrating into the grain and binding to the wood fibres. You have 2 options to make the flooring a bit shinier; you can either wait for approximately 12 months for the oil to shrink and then you can apply a maintenance coat in a higher sheen level. Alternatively you could give it a coat of the Osmo Liquid Wax Cleaner which will achieve a satin finish. The Liquid Wax Cleaner contains all of the ingredients that the Poly Oil does apart from the solvent so this can be applied immediately. This will also give you an extra layer of durability. I will pop a link below for you;
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-liquid-wax-cleaner
Please do not hesitate to come back to me should you require any further information.
Hi,
I’m going to be building a kitchen from birch plywood and am trying to decide on the finish. I was thinking about using osmo wood protector but then can’t decide whether to use top oil or polyx as the top coat. Which would be best and how many coats would go on top of the wood protector?
Reply to Frank:
Good Morning Frank,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. The Osmo Wood Protector (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-protector) is a good place to start as it will give a really good protection against moisture ingress, particularly the area around the sink. It will darken the wood slightly as if it is wet and then I would recommend two thin coats of the Osmo Top Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-top-oil) to be applied over the top. This combination gives a really natural but durable result, the Top oil is resistant to most spillages and easy to care for and maintain. Both are available in sample sizes and so you are able to try test areas first and I would recommend this.
Do not hesitate to get in touch if there is anything further that we are able to help with via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
All the Best Samantha.
Hello,
I recent used Osmo 1101 Clear Satin Extra Thin Wood Wax Finish on my Walnut block kitchen worktop. The tin said two coats, but the worktop manufacturer recommended 3-5 coats. I went for 3 coats and although the worktop is now dry, it feels ever so slightly tacky when leaning on it and appears streaky when you look at it in a certain light. I’m not sure what to do. Should I leave it alone to cure for a couple of weeks, use some meth spirit to degrease the top layer, or maybe sand it down? Also, would buffing help it? I can’t find much info on buffing, so not sure if that’s a thing. Thank you.
Reply to Tom:
Hi Tom,
Thank you for getting in touch, always follow the manufacturers guidelines. Two coats is all that is needed, especially on a hardwood worktop. Think of the wood like a sponge, once saturated it will take no more water, the same can be said for wood. Once the grain is full with oil, surplus will remain on the surface of the wood. It will dry, however it is going to be a little tacky to the touch for a while and may mark easily.
I would see how you get on in the next week or so and if it does start to mark easily then perhaps a light sand to remove the excess, a wipe down with Methylated spirits and the result should be better.
Buffing is not really something that helps with these oils, they dry hard and although they do contain some waxes or resins they do not increase much in shine when you buff them. The oil is inside the wood and so there is little for light to bounce off unlike wax that remains on the surface of the wood and is much more reflective.
I hope that helps and please do let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi,
I have recently bought a Pre finished Holdenby oak door and unfortunately was scratched when putting up. i have sanded the scratches down and they’ve now gone but its left a white ‘shadow’ where I’ve sanded. Also where the door has had to be plained on the edges its not quite the finish anymore. Would you recommend the Omso oil to regain wood colour again?
Thanks.