In this video, Jay from Wood Finishes Direct will explain what you should consider before purchasing Osmo Polyx Oil. However, this advice is also suitable for other hard wax oils, such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil.
Hard Wax Oil FAQ
Do wood oils dry or remain greasy?
Wood oils penetrate into the surface fibres of the wood, where they oxidise with the air and harden. The result is a finish that is dry and non-greasy, so will not stain or mark clothing or soft furnishings. If a wood oil does remain sticky or greasy, it has been over-applied.
What is the advantage of using wood oil?
Wood oils help to protect and preserve interior and exterior wood by feeding the timber to keep it nourished and supple. They are the easiest of all wood finishes to maintain and repair. A patch repair, for example, where a scuff, scratch, stain or area of wear has occurred, can be easily fixed by simply sanding the affected area and applying more wood oil.
Can I apply wood oil over varnish?
In short, no. Varnish is a coating-type product that coats the wood with a plastic shell or skin. Wood oils work by penetrating into the wood but can’t with a varnish covering the wood grain. All varnish coatings need to be fully removed by sanding before an oil can be applied.
Before You Buy – Osmo Polyx Oil Transcript
Hi, I’m Jay from Wood Finishes Direct. In this video, I’m going to be highlighting the key things you should consider before starting your project with the Osmo Polyx Oil range. First off, what is it?
Osmo Polyx Oil is the original hard wax oil, a combination of natural oils and waxes for use on almost any interior project. Hard wax oil is almost as hard as a varnish but easier to repair. All you need is a rag to apply the oil over the affected areas without having to remove any previous finish.
Let me show you a very simple test called the water test. All you need is a drop of water. Apply a drop to the wood and leave for 30 seconds. Easy, right? If the water beads, then you know there is an existing finish on there. If the water sinks in, this would indicate that there is an untreated surface, so you can move straight on to application.
It’s always a great idea to start with the best canvas possible. Sand your wood through the grits up to P120. This is a fine sand on bare timber in preparation for finishing, not suitable for removing varnish or paint. Always sand with the grain of the wood to avoid scratch marks.
What’s the deal with clear? A clear product suggests it doesn’t change the colour of the wood, but it actually does. Clear Polyx Oil will bring out the natural tone and patina of the wood, enhancing the grain and making it appear darker, giving it what we call the “wet look”.
If this isn’t for you, then we recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw 3044. This will lessen the wet look on lighter timbers such as oak or pine. Raw gets mixed results on hardwoods, especially darker hardwoods, as it contains white pigment. If you are looking to change the colour of your wood, then you can go across to the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints, which come in a range of colours. The whole Polyx Oil range comes in handy 5 ml sachets to do your test areas before purchasing a bigger tin.
Over-application isn’t uncommon with Polyx Oil but is avoidable by using the P.A.R.S.E. method:
- Prepare properly – sand the wood to P120
- Apply thinly – always working with the grain
- Remove excess – using a microfibre cloth
- Sand lightly – abrade the surface with a finishing pad once dry
- End coat – apply and leave to dry
Nice and easy!
Without following the P.A.R.S.E. method, over-application issues you may face are:
- A sticky-feeling surface
- Longer drying times
- A patchy finish
- Product pooling on the surface
The last thing to consider is sheen! Sheen refers to the amount of light the finish reflects from the surface. Contrary to popular belief, this does not have any influence over durability.
- Matt – gives you a flat matt look and feel
- Semi Matt – a slight sheen added to the wood for those who don’t want dead matt
- Satin – the halfway house between matt and gloss
- Gloss – gives the light a good surface to reflect off
Do you need further technical assistance or advice on your project? Why not put us to the test by messaging us or giving us a call? Links to all the products used are in the description on YouTube. We hope you enjoyed the video. Don’t forget to like and subscribe for future content.
47 comments
Hi, we have purchased some oak veneers doors and it recommends osmo door oil, however using some test samples they only come in a clear or raw and both of these darken the wood far to much for our liking
A test of the polyx raw is a perfect finish for us but is this suitable for oak veneered doors?
Reply to Martyn:
Hi Martyn – The Osmo Polyx Oil is not suitable for veneered doors. It has to be the Osmo Door Oil as it is manufactured in a way that dries quicker and can’t affect the glue that holds the veneers on. I am surprised the Dorr Oil Raw darkened the grain any more than the Polyx Oil Raw as they contain exactly the same amount of white pigment which is what keeps the wood lighter (1.25%) Maybe it is worth doing another test area with the Door oil Raw making sure that the sachet or tin is mixed thoroughly.
Please come back to me if required – Alison
Hi my husband has applied 3 coats of polyx raw l (following instructions on the tin) to an oak table top but it now looks white and has visible streaks is there anything he can do to fix/darken it back to its original tone without starting from scratch?
And is there a better choice from the osmo range than raw as the table top is now a completely different colour to the legs!
Thanks
Maggie
Reply to Maggie:
Hi Maggie,
The Raw contains 1.25% white pigment and for this reason, it is extremely important that the oil is applied thinly. Try wiping over the surface of the wood with a cloth dampened with Methylated Spirit, this sometimes removes the excess white pigment. If this doesn’t help, the only option will be to sand back and reapply. You may want to consider the clear Polyx Oil which will darken the grain as much as water does.
Hope that helps!
Reply to Alison:
Thanks Alison!
I want to refinish an oak table and give it the aged look with a matte finish and a lime wax/wash. Do you think the Osmo white wax would do the job? Do I need to add anything over the white wax to further protect it or will the 2 coats of wax be durable for a kitchen table?
Reply to Jenn:
Hi Jen,
You can either apply 2 coats of the Osmo Polyx Oil Tint in white or 1 coat of the Osmo Wood Finish in White followed by 1 coat of the Osmo Polyx Tint in White. There is only enough room in the grain for 2 coats of oil in total and the top coat must be the Polyx.
Hope that helps!
Hi
I’ve stripped back years worth of paint from my old Victoria bannister, and I think the wood is hemlock (it’s a darker, fairly uniform shade of brown).
I’m not sure what to use on it now it’s all stripped back. I was considering a satin look so it’s not too glossy but has a slight sheen.
Would the original Osmo be best or the raw version? Or something else altogether?
I don’t really want the wood to get any darker either, or not too much darker anyway as I’m having engineered oak parquet flooring laid.
Thanks!
Ben
Reply to Ben Gale:
Hi Ben,
Thank you for your enquiry. The Polyx Oil contains 1.25% white pigment which is designed to keep blond woods lighter. It does have a Matt finish. If you would prefer a Satin finish please consider the Fiddes Natural instead which is also designed to keep the wood lighter but is a Satin finish;
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening
This product is available in a sample sachet and we always recommend test areas to ensure that you are 100% happy with the finish.
I hope this helps. Please do not hesitate to contact us
I am considering finishing my new Ash cabinets with Osmo Wood Wax Finish – either Clear, or Birch. I am hoping to maintain the light ash appearance and am wondering if this finish will yellow over time.