I don’t mind admitting it… I love wood glue. I have at least six different kinds in the cupboard at any one time, and PVA glue PVA glue is a can’t-do-without staple. I’ve used it for all manner of creative, practical and DIY projects. It’s low cost, safe, easy to use and incredibly handy. But what is PVA’s secret? What lies behind this seemingly simple product that makes it such a useful piece of your wood finishes kit… what is PVA glue?
What is PVA?
What is PVA glue made from? Our first stop is Wikipedia. Here’s what it says about PVA:
“PVA is a rubbery synthetic polymer with the formula (C4H6O2)n. It belongs to the polyvinyl esters family with the general formula . It is a type of thermoplastic. Polyvinyl acetate is a component of a widely used glue type, commonly referred to as wood glue, white glue, carpenter’s glue, school glue, Elmer’s glue (in the US), or PVA glue.”
Looking for an extra strong PVA Glue?
Whether looking to do homecrafts, DIY, joinery or other wood repair projects, choosing a professional grade PVA Glue will ensure that your project is a success. We believe that the following PVA Glues are some of the best on the market, meaning that you wont come unstuck when it matters.
- Morrells Probond PVA Adhesive – A high performance, D3 grade, PVA adhesive, primer and very strong bonding agent
- Evo-Stik Evo Bond GP PVA – Multipurpose adhesive which can be used across plaster, concrete and timber
PVA Glue for Homecrafts
PVA glue facts
Polyvinyl acetate, PVA’s main chemical component, was discovered by the German Fritz Klatte in 1912. The resulting glue doesn’t give off smells or dangerous fumes and is perfectly safe to handle with bare hands.
As well as ‘real’ wood you can use it on plywoods, chipboards and MDFs. It can be used as a high performance sealer, primer, bonding agent and dust proofer.
PVA sets when there’s good air circulation, and dries fastest at room temperature. You get the strongest seal when you clamp the pieces being glued. It’s quick drying with a very high bond strength.
The yellow exterior version of PVA is often called Carpenter’s Glue… but it’s still PVA. In fact, there is a bewildering array of specialist PVAs but the formula is much the same.
PVA is flexible, permanent and only toxic if you eat it. It has a neutral pH value.
PVA is water soluble. You can add water to thick glue yourself to create a thinner, less gloopy one. It’s best to add water to the glue (not the other way around) a small amount at a time and stir it well, to make sure you don’t over-dilute.
Here’s what Woodwork Basics says about PVA:
“This glue is now very popular and in many opinions, it is the best timber adhesive available because it dries clear, it’s very easy to apply and has super strong holding strength on wood. They can creep over time but a tight joint helps to prevent that. Because of its many great features, Polyvinyl Acetate is excellent for bonding woodwork joints together or as a furniture and carpentry adhesive.
Polyvinyl Acetates are very versatile and are relatively fast drying, but excess glue must be wiped away after applying, or it is difficult to remove when dry.
Polyvinyl Acetate glues are available in white and yellow and are relatively inexpensive compared to most glue, they also have a reasonably long shelf life.
The white one is better for interior use because moisture weakens it over time and the yellow is better for outdoor use because it is water-resistant, but it doesn’t dry completely clear.”
And here’s what the Woodworkers Institute says about PVA:
“Most woodworkers today use the white wood glue, PVA. This provides a strong, and as far as we know, durable joint. The only glues that have really been tested by time are the animal glues and natural resins and gums. These are likely to be affected by heat and damp, and the animal glues, being rich in protein, are an invitation to insects and moulds if there is moisture present. Although some PVA glues are advertised as suitable for outdoor use, it is best to use a formaldehyde resorcin.
One possible drawback with PVA is that if you are gluing oak (Quercus robur), it may react with the tannin in the wood and go black, even staining surrounding wood if the surplus is not wiped off immediately.”
Plus, here’s a Youtube video about applying PVA glue:
PVA glue uses
What is PVA glue used for? As an emulsion, soluble in water, it is particularly useful for glueing porous materials, particularly for wood, paper and cloth. It doesn’t contain solvents and acts as a useful consolidant for porous building materials like sandstone. PVA adhesive is flexible, delivers a very strong bond and, unlike many polymers, it is not acidic. PVA wood glue is most often used:
- as a wood adhesive
- as a paper, fabric and leather adhesive
- in bookbinding
- in arts and crafts, for example mosaic
- as envelope adhesive
- as wallpaper glue
- as a drywall primer
- as a filler, by adding sawdust to it
A mixture of 50/50 PVA and water makes a very good sealant for plaster, preparing it for painting or wallpapering. It can also be used as a non-waterproof interior varnish, perfect for papier mache projects.
7 steps to using PVA to glue wood
PVA is a low cost, water-based, non-toxic way to glue wood to itself. Wood glue is a particularly strong version of ordinary PVA glue, ideal for heavier jobs. It dries completely clear but you can also buy pre-coloured versions that are less visible on wood surfaces.
- Squeeze the glue onto the surface of both of the bits of wood you want to glue together
- Remove any excess or spills immediately using a damp cloth
- Use either a specialist plastic spreader or a brush to spread a thin coat of glue over the surface of both pieces of wood
- Push the pieces together, rubbing the surfaces from side to side to remove trapped air and make sure the glue spreads evenly
- Grab a G-clamp or two and clamp the pieces securely
- Leave it for 24 hours before taking the clamps off
- Sand off any dried excess glue
The disadvantages of PVA glue
- Various fungi, algae, yeasts, lichens and bacteria can break down and degrade polyvinyl acetate
- PVA shouldn’t be allowed to freeze because it breaks up the polymer, which makes the glue useless
- You can’t varnish over PVA…but you can paint over it
- It takes 24 hours for the bond to achieve full strength
- It is not fully waterproof
How to remove PVA?
To get PVA glue off wood, sand it. If you get it on your clothes, a couple of warm washes should remove it. If it gets on your carpet, scrub it with warm water then Vax it up.
The most impressive PVA story on the planet?
I used PVA to varnish a decorated ceramic bowl, which I embellished with coloured papers and fabrics. It has been out in the garden for eight years through some of the worst winters and hottest summers on record, and it is still going strong. The surface goes a little milky in wet weather as the glue absorbs water and turns back into something sticky, but that’s about it. So while it isn’t supposed to be frost or water proof, under some circumstances PVA glue seems to be more or less indestructible.
Do you have a thrilling PVA tale to tell? If so we’d love to hear it!
Have a question about PVA Glue and its uses?
Need help with your wood glue project?
For more information about wood glues and their uses, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
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58 comments
If you have large gaps or cracks for glue you could try applying a normal amount of PVA and then fill the gap or cracks with a thickish mix of Polyfilla or similar powder and the glue.
It works perfcetly.
PVA wood glue is stronger than wood.
Try glue to pieces of any wood, leave a few hours to dry then try separate the wood and always the wood will tear apart leaving the solid glued joint.
However as with anything else manufacturers will try to undercut each other and make inferior products.
I’ve just been using some 15 brand PVA but it is a lot more runny and doesn’t seem as strong as better brands.
Hello. I’m considering what to seal/glue a laminate (i.e. chipboard) kitchen countertop joint with. A bewildering selection of substances seems to be used including PVA. I’m considering sealing the edges first with varnish. Having done that, would PVA be a poor choice to seal the joint because PVA should be used with porous surfaces?
Reply to Ian:
Good Afternoon Ian,
I would say for areas that need filling or a water proof seal rather than adhesive then perhaps a gap sealer would be a better option. This can be used on long thin lines to seal the gap and are flexible to deal with everyday movement and use of the surface.
The Bona Gap Master (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/bona-gap-master) is a good option to take a look and see if it might suit your needs and if you have any questions at all please get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
Kind Regards Samantha.
When I think of the money (and failures) spent on contact cement glue yet I’ve always had PVA sitting in the shed staring me in the face. Last night I tried it on sticking veneer to MDF – it’s surely 10 times better than contact cement. AND, I’m now going to apply my automotive trim to the MDF using the same technique. When you’ve spent four years restoring a 1955 truck a few more hours getting the trim right is worth it!
Can I use pva to reglue chair legs and back spindles ?
Reply to David Barnes:
Good Afternoon David,
Yes a Wood PVA Glue would be suitable for your project, you could look at the Osmo D3 Express Wood PVA Adhesive 560g (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-d3-express-wood-pva-adhesive) as a good option or the Morrells Probond PVA Adhesive (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/morrells-probond-extra-strong-pva-glue)
Clamps will help to hold the wood in place whilst the glue cures and give a better and stronger bond. As with all products a test area is recommended and I would advice reading up on the products to ensure they are right for your project.
All the Best Samantha.
Hello! I was wondering if you guys could tell me if PVA is suitable for filling the drying cracks of a wooden mallet (the cracks are about 1 mm at the widest end). I’m planning on diluting it a bit with water and use a syringe to fill the cracks. PVA is flexible when dry and would that hold the mallet together for timber framing joinery making, which is a quite heavy duty use of the mallet.
Reply to Raido:
Good Afternoon,
Thank you for getting in touch with your unique enquiry. I would have to say that whilst Pva and some other fillers are flexible, I am not sure they will stand up to the rigorous use of a mallet and after a while will pop out.
All the Best Samantha.
Could I use pva glue to fill in a lot of gaps on my wooden dining table . The centre of the table is made up of circles of wood and I would like to fill the gaps in