I don’t mind admitting it… I love wood glue. I have at least six different kinds in the cupboard at any one time, and PVA glue PVA glue is a can’t-do-without staple. I’ve used it for all manner of creative, practical and DIY projects. It’s low cost, safe, easy to use and incredibly handy. But what is PVA’s secret? What lies behind this seemingly simple product that makes it such a useful piece of your wood finishes kit… what is PVA glue?
What is PVA?
What is PVA glue made from? Our first stop is Wikipedia. Here’s what it says about PVA:
“PVA is a rubbery synthetic polymer with the formula (C4H6O2)n. It belongs to the polyvinyl esters family with the general formula . It is a type of thermoplastic. Polyvinyl acetate is a component of a widely used glue type, commonly referred to as wood glue, white glue, carpenter’s glue, school glue, Elmer’s glue (in the US), or PVA glue.”
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PVA Glue for Homecrafts
PVA glue facts
Polyvinyl acetate, PVA’s main chemical component, was discovered by the German Fritz Klatte in 1912. The resulting glue doesn’t give off smells or dangerous fumes and is perfectly safe to handle with bare hands.
As well as ‘real’ wood you can use it on plywoods, chipboards and MDFs. It can be used as a high performance sealer, primer, bonding agent and dust proofer.
PVA sets when there’s good air circulation, and dries fastest at room temperature. You get the strongest seal when you clamp the pieces being glued. It’s quick drying with a very high bond strength.
The yellow exterior version of PVA is often called Carpenter’s Glue… but it’s still PVA. In fact, there is a bewildering array of specialist PVAs but the formula is much the same.
PVA is flexible, permanent and only toxic if you eat it. It has a neutral pH value.
PVA is water soluble. You can add water to thick glue yourself to create a thinner, less gloopy one. It’s best to add water to the glue (not the other way around) a small amount at a time and stir it well, to make sure you don’t over-dilute.
Here’s what Woodwork Basics says about PVA:
“This glue is now very popular and in many opinions, it is the best timber adhesive available because it dries clear, it’s very easy to apply and has super strong holding strength on wood. They can creep over time but a tight joint helps to prevent that. Because of its many great features, Polyvinyl Acetate is excellent for bonding woodwork joints together or as a furniture and carpentry adhesive.
Polyvinyl Acetates are very versatile and are relatively fast drying, but excess glue must be wiped away after applying, or it is difficult to remove when dry.
Polyvinyl Acetate glues are available in white and yellow and are relatively inexpensive compared to most glue, they also have a reasonably long shelf life.
The white one is better for interior use because moisture weakens it over time and the yellow is better for outdoor use because it is water-resistant, but it doesn’t dry completely clear.”
And here’s what the Woodworkers Institute says about PVA:
“Most woodworkers today use the white wood glue, PVA. This provides a strong, and as far as we know, durable joint. The only glues that have really been tested by time are the animal glues and natural resins and gums. These are likely to be affected by heat and damp, and the animal glues, being rich in protein, are an invitation to insects and moulds if there is moisture present. Although some PVA glues are advertised as suitable for outdoor use, it is best to use a formaldehyde resorcin.
One possible drawback with PVA is that if you are gluing oak (Quercus robur), it may react with the tannin in the wood and go black, even staining surrounding wood if the surplus is not wiped off immediately.”
Plus, here’s a Youtube video about applying PVA glue:
PVA glue uses
What is PVA glue used for? As an emulsion, soluble in water, it is particularly useful for glueing porous materials, particularly for wood, paper and cloth. It doesn’t contain solvents and acts as a useful consolidant for porous building materials like sandstone. PVA adhesive is flexible, delivers a very strong bond and, unlike many polymers, it is not acidic. PVA wood glue is most often used:
- as a wood adhesive
- as a paper, fabric and leather adhesive
- in bookbinding
- in arts and crafts, for example mosaic
- as envelope adhesive
- as wallpaper glue
- as a drywall primer
- as a filler, by adding sawdust to it
A mixture of 50/50 PVA and water makes a very good sealant for plaster, preparing it for painting or wallpapering. It can also be used as a non-waterproof interior varnish, perfect for papier mache projects.
7 steps to using PVA to glue wood
PVA is a low cost, water-based, non-toxic way to glue wood to itself. Wood glue is a particularly strong version of ordinary PVA glue, ideal for heavier jobs. It dries completely clear but you can also buy pre-coloured versions that are less visible on wood surfaces.
- Squeeze the glue onto the surface of both of the bits of wood you want to glue together
- Remove any excess or spills immediately using a damp cloth
- Use either a specialist plastic spreader or a brush to spread a thin coat of glue over the surface of both pieces of wood
- Push the pieces together, rubbing the surfaces from side to side to remove trapped air and make sure the glue spreads evenly
- Grab a G-clamp or two and clamp the pieces securely
- Leave it for 24 hours before taking the clamps off
- Sand off any dried excess glue
The disadvantages of PVA glue
- Various fungi, algae, yeasts, lichens and bacteria can break down and degrade polyvinyl acetate
- PVA shouldn’t be allowed to freeze because it breaks up the polymer, which makes the glue useless
- You can’t varnish over PVA…but you can paint over it
- It takes 24 hours for the bond to achieve full strength
- It is not fully waterproof
How to remove PVA?
To get PVA glue off wood, sand it. If you get it on your clothes, a couple of warm washes should remove it. If it gets on your carpet, scrub it with warm water then Vax it up.
The most impressive PVA story on the planet?
I used PVA to varnish a decorated ceramic bowl, which I embellished with coloured papers and fabrics. It has been out in the garden for eight years through some of the worst winters and hottest summers on record, and it is still going strong. The surface goes a little milky in wet weather as the glue absorbs water and turns back into something sticky, but that’s about it. So while it isn’t supposed to be frost or water proof, under some circumstances PVA glue seems to be more or less indestructible.
Do you have a thrilling PVA tale to tell? If so we’d love to hear it!
Have a question about PVA Glue and its uses?
Need help with your wood glue project?
For more information about wood glues and their uses, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
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58 comments
Thank you, Sam. That’s what I wanted to hear! :)
Thanks for the info.
You say, “PVA shouldn’t be allowed to freeze because it breaks up the polymer, which makes the glue useless.”
I assume you’re talking there about its storage BEFORE use. To be sure though, I’d be very grateful if you would let me know roughly in what temperature range it performs its function as a glue AFTER it is set, assuming it were fully set at room temperature, say. In particular, what concerns me is whether it will hold in a wood joint at a temperature as low as -5C.
Reply to Pete:
Hello Pete,
Thank you for your inquiry, PVA should be stored between 5c and 30c. Once it is fully cured it will hold fine at temperatures to -5c, however the temperature change may have an effect on the wood causing it to expand or retract and this in turn could loosen the joints – Sam
I want to shappy chic a cabinet and someone suggested using this glue first before applying cream paint to it, as it is mahogany at the moment and they said it would help stop the brown coming through.
Reply to Linda:
Hello Linda,
I have not heard of this before, so I couldn’t give you a definitive answer I’m afraid. But I do know that Chalk paint covers pretty much everything, so it may be worth trying that. The other option is to use a good primer first and then the paint.
If you do use a Chalk Paint then you will need to seal it with a Wax (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-wax). Using a coloured Wax can help to achieve the distressed or shabby chic effect that you want. I hope that helps and we would love to see your finished project!
i have used PVA glue as a clear filler on a timber bench, but it hasnt dried clear, after 24hrs it has set, but it is white..???
Reply to Keith:
Hi Keith,
Would i be right in assuming that you are looking for a ‘clear’ filler? Unfortunately, i’m not aware of any wood fillers that are perfectly clear. Even fillers that have a name like ‘Natural’ tend to have some sort of colour be it Grey or Beige. If you’re looking to make a repair as less visible as possible, consider something like Fiddes Wood Filler Gel. This is a clear filler that is mixed with sanding dust to make a filler that blends in with the surounding wood. Using sanding dust from the wood being filled will always give the best result. The filled area can then be sanded and if required stained and finished with a varnish or wood oil.
Always do a test area first.
I prefer to use the Loctite brand of pva as it cures quicker than other brands I have tried. Usually after half an hour the clamps can be removed. Among other uses, I use it for attaching model clay to foamboard for textured architectural models. The only golden rule here is to also apply the adhesive to the reverse side of the foamboard. This is necessary to equalise the tension created by drying and subsequently slight shrinkage. As a modelmaker, I have to work very quickly so the bulk of adhesives I use are those that bond in seconds rather than minutes or hours but it’s horses for courses. We’re certainly a lot further down the road from my dad’s old glue-pot which sat on a primus stove to keep it liquid. The stench of these old glues however was easily matched by the corresponding bonding power. Many a piece of old furniture stand testament to this.