What Everyone Should Know About Finishing Oak

|Tim Hagger

Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.

A Little History of Oak

Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.

The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?

Acorns growing on an oak tree

Acorn of the mighty oak tree.

Treating Oak Wood

With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:

  • When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
  • The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
  • Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
  • The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Weathered oak with a grey-silver appearance

Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.

Traditional oak barrel

Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.

If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:

Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.

If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:

Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.

If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:

If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.

Unfinished oak panels

Unfinished oak.

Treated oak panels

Treated oak.

One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.

Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:

Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.

If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.

Oiling Consideration

If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.

Interesting Oak Stats

  • Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
  • Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
  • Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
  • Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
  • Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
  • A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!

Need help finishing a project made with oak?

For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great oak-related blogs to consider

469 comments

Hi

I am thinking of making some quirky chunks of furniture/door stops/small coffee table etc out of big squares and lengths of green sawn and planed oak. I guess it will slowly dry out in the house and crack etc (which is fine) but will the timber weep onto the flooring or anything else? Or will it just happily sit there and just slowly dry out?

Many thanks for any input

John

John •

Reply to John:

Hello John,

Freshly cut green oak will naturally leach out tannin’s and how long this can go on for is anyone guess as each piece of oak is different. I would avoid having it in contact with your flooring as the tannin’s are likely to stain. I would like to say more but this is not really my field of expertise I’m afraid.

All the Best Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hello,
We have put oak shelves in our bathrooms. In order to keep a pale and natural finish we were advised to apply several layers of Satin Oil. They look ok but are susceptible to water marks. What can we do to fully protect the surface from water damage but not end up with either darker or very glossy wood? Thank you for your help.

Lucy Carruthers •

Reply to Lucy Carruthers:

Hello Lucy,

Can you give me a little more information about the Oil that you have used and the application process. Often if the Oil is applied too liberally it has not soaked into the surface of the wood as it should have done, it may not be doing its job properly.

It is also worth noting that although most oils are water repellent, standing water over long periods will soak in and mark the wood. Patch repair is relatively easy however and this is one of the key benefits to using oils. You can simply sand back the marked areas and re oil. The oil will blend with existing oil. If you have any questions or would like to discuss further, please feel free to contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) of email to wood@finishes.direct and speak to one of our advisers.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

thanks sam .I have wiped with white spirit but nothing happens no mark on rag its just as if it has cleaned the panel of dust.

dayne •

sam I have purchased some parquet floor panels. I want to darken the colour but they have had a coat of uv oil on them. Could I treat the panels with something as I want to stain them and apply a junkers product HP performance top coat laquer as there will be a loot of traffic as they are going in front of my bar. I have heard a wipe down with white spirit will do before I stain the panels . IS THIS PROCEDURE OK. Thank you Dayne.

dayne •

Reply to dayne:

Hello Dayne,

The key here is to make sure that you get all of the oil out of the surface of the wood. You can wipe with White Spirit and this should get all or most off but a light sanding is recommended to ensure that all of the oils is out. Once done go over the floor with a damp (not wet) cloth and if there are areas that repel the water (doesn’t darken the wood) and leaves water beaded on the surface, scrub those areas again with White Spirit and lightly sand until the water penetrates.

Once you are back to bare wood, make sure that you carry out a test area with the stain and varnish to ensure that you are going to achieve the look that you want. The Junkers HP Commercial Lacquer is a tough and durable product to go for. And the good thing about our Manns Classic Oak Stain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-oak-wood-stain) is that you can add more coats until you get the required depth of colour or you can lighten by adding water. Please let me know if you have an more questions.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Dear Sam, We have put up a large European Oak Glulam frame with European Oak windows. We would like this to appear untreated and to weather gradually. We specified two coats of Barretine Premier Wood Preservative with two coats of clear Log Cabin Treatment. However the Contractor has just applied the two coats of Preservative and wants to leave it. Do you foresee any problems with this? Could you advise on maintenance (i.e. does the preservative need to be re-applied in the future)? Many thanks indeed. Tom

Tom McGlynn •

Reply to Tom McGlynn:

Hello Tom,

Many people do just use Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-premier-wood-preservative) as a stand alone product, but we recommend applying Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-log-cabin-treatment) or other suitable exterior wood oil over the top. This will provide better protection for the wood preservative and a better level of water repellency. The oil will feed and nourish the timber and will help to prevent the wood from cracking, splitting and warping over time.

Exterior wood oils soak into the wood to replace the natural oils produced by the tree when alive. As they penetrate into the surface of the wood rather than forming a film or layer on the surface, they do not crack, peel or flake. Maintaining a wood oil is easy as it just requires a fresh coat as and when needed, usually every couple of years dependent on the location of the structure and weathering. If you keep the oil well topped up then the preservative will be protected for around 6-8 years. Please don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any further questions.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hello,

We have recently moved to a house with a Oak porch and a Oak structure at the back of the house like a conservatory I guess best way to explain it. I was wondering if you could please advise us the best way to treat it? The porch looks like fairly new maybe a year old and the back conservatory a few years old gone a bit black on the bottom and silvery colour. I am assuming we need to oil the Oak to protect it? Your advise greatly appreciated. Thank you Jazz

Jazz •
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