Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A Little History of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?
Acorn of the mighty oak tree.
Treating Oak Wood
With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:
- When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.
Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3–5 coats of high-quality tung oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- Followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.
Unfinished oak.
Treated oak.
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:
- If an oiled finish is preferred, then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred, then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
469 comments
Hi, what can I use to remove liberon finishing oil from my oak work tops so that I can use Osmo oils instead
Reply to Anne french:
Hello Anne,
You could try scrubbing with some White Spirit (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-white-spirit) and a finishing pad (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/woodleys-finishing-pads) and if that does not work you will need to sand it back. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please do let me know.
Kind regards Sam.
Hello,
I’m wondering if you can help me?? We’ve just had a kitchen fitted and upon reccomendation used Colron refined Danish oil in ‘natural’ to protect it. However, the wood is now much too ‘orange’ for me and I’m worried that short of sanding down the whole of the two work tops there’s nothing I can do!! … Do you have any advice for this situation, could I perhaps do a final coat with something with a ‘white’ colour in it as you mention above??? …. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated as you seem very much to know what you are talking about!
Many many thanks in advance,
Sarah
Reply to Sarah:
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for your inquiry, it is a common question and often the application of a clear product, varnish or oil, will bring out the natural tones of the wood which in your case is the orange but it can also be green. It can be difficult to avoid and using a product that has some white is not always the solution as this can highlight the problem even more. But it is worth trying a test area with a sample sachet of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening) to see if this works.
A small test in an inconspicuous area will show if the oil will improve or highlight the problem. You could also look at trying Morrells Tung Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/morrells-tung-oil). This wood oil is food safe and will change the colour less than Danish Oil. I am sorry that I can not give you a more definitive answer but the natural colour of the wood can only be changed by adding another colour. If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.Kind regards Sam.
Hi,
Looking for some advice on how to prepare and finish a slightly unique oak piece. We have a good size 4′ × 2′ slice of oak that we are planning to use as something for our guests to sign at our wedding which we can then hang on the wall and maybe even incorporate it into a piece of furniture in the future. The plan is to let people sign the oak with a permanent marker, however I would like advice if possible on what to use to seal/prepare the oak with so a good surface exists for signing on then what would be the best way to seal over this again to create a finish that will retain the signatures. Looking to achieve a relatively natural finish but not too worried about bringing out a warmer finish.
Kind Regards.
Jon
Reply to Jon Roberts:
Hello Jon,
My apologies for the delay in getting back to you, I was looking into what would be the best product and application method for you to use. I believe that for a permanent marker pen you would be best off sealing with a water based varnish such as Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-interior-varnish) if you have access to a spray machine for application. I think Spray application will be the best option to avoid pulling the pen out but I would strongly recommend running a test first to see if the varnish makes the pen bleed or smudge.
If you are not able to get your hands on a sprayer then you could have a look at the Morrells Nitrocellulose Lacquer Spray (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/morrells-nitrocellulose-spray-lacquer), again I would strongly recommend running a test first.
I would be interested to see the end result, its a great idea !!
All the Best Sam.
Hello, we have just purchased some brand new untreated oak garden furniture. Is there any exterior protection matt non-yellowing varnish that you could recommend for use please, that will leave the oak looking a light colour and new .
Many thanks
David
Reply to David J:
Hello David,
You could have a look at the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra Natural (429) (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-uv-protection-oil). This is an Oil rather than a varnish that will soak into the surface of the wood and leave it Microporous, it will not peel and flake over time and is easy to maintain. The natural has a minute amount of white pigment in it to counteract the darkening effect that you get with most clear oils or varnishes, leaving the wood looking as natural as possible.
Test areas are always recommended to ensure that you are going to achieve the look that you want and regular maintenance will help prevent silvering over time.Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Sam.
Hello, What an informative site. I am presently building an Oak fireplace using some weathered French Oak that had previously be used as benches. It has come up quite well after sanding. I would like to keep the finish as natural as possible whilst at the same time protecting and preserving the wood. What would you suggest to achieve this finish and importantly be fireproof and resistant to heat.
Thank you
jim
Reply to Jim Ramsay:
Good Afternoon Jim,
Thank you for your inquiry, you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening) this is a protective, hard wearing oil that will not darken the wood like many other clear products do. This is because it has a minute amount of white pigment it.
This product is not guaranteed ‘fireproof’ but is suitable for use on fire surrounds with many of our customers using it in this situation. Test areas are always recommended to ensure that you are getting the finish that you require. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind Regards Ben