Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A Little History of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?
Acorn of the mighty oak tree.
Treating Oak Wood
With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:
- When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.
Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3–5 coats of high-quality tung oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- Followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.
Unfinished oak.
Treated oak.
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:
- If an oiled finish is preferred, then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred, then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
469 comments
What’s the best varnish for oak stairs
Reply to Kam:
Hello,
You could have a look at the Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-floor-varnish) for stairs. It is a clear, non yellowing varnish that is durable and hard wearing. It is available in sample sizes and a test area is always recommended first.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, we are wondering the best way to seal our oak kitchen island countertop. We want a matte finish with a very light natural oak look. I want it to be very durable, of course, and easy to maintain. Could you let me know the best way to do this? I would like to to be very waterproof, not shiny, and not orange! I was looking at the Osmo Top Oil Natural. Is that a good idea? I’ve read that that requires a base coat of the Osmo Wood Protector. Is that true? Will it darken the color of the wood? Thanks so much for your help!
Reply to Kelly:
Hello Kelly,
My apologies for not getting back to you sooner. You are considering the right products for sure. The Osmo Wood Protector (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-protector) and the Osmo Top Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-top-oil) will give durability to the wood, helping to make it water repellent. It is easy to apply and maintain and we have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7-tgwbsUxm73aVnAjLGHRA) with hints and tips for application methods.
The Top Oil will darken the wood to give what we call the ‘wet look’ and you can get an idea of this buy wiping a damp cloth over the bare wood. If you find this to be too dark then you could consider the ‘Natural’ in the Top Oil range, this has a small amount of white pigment in it to counteract the darkening effect.
I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get back in touch. Always try a test area first.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi, can you tell me the best way to clean untreated oak doors? I want to wax them but before that need to clean off grubby prints from the babies! Thanks!!
Hi Nick
I’m hoping to buy an oak veneer or oak table – if funds allow (!) – table. Several of the models I’m interested in are oiled, but I don’t like the colour. Can I apply varnish / lacquer on top without sanding? I’m trying to achieve a slightly warmer and darker look than light oak.
Thanks
Tricia (in London)
Reply to Tricia:
Hello Tricia,
It is not viable to apply a varnish over an oiled finish as there will be adhesion problems. If you do not want to remove the current oil you could have look at a tinted wood oil such as Fiddes Hardwax Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-tints) or Osmo Polyx Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-colour-foundation). These products can be applied over an existing oil, although its important to carry out a test area first. This will show you the colour that will be achieved and if the wood will accept the oil without any reaction to the current finish.
If you have a look at the product and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.
All the Best Samantha.
Hi,
I am wondering what to do with some ‘green’ oak that has got some timber decay and would like some advice please. I have an external timber staircase and balcony which is constructed from green oak, in 2010. It was never treated with anything originally. It is now suffering from timber decay and beetle attack. Can you recommend anything to slow the process of decay and prolong the life of the wood? I understand that the most affected timber will have to be replaced/repaired. It has silvered nicely and I would like to keep that aesthetic if possible.
Thanks.
Reply to Rob:
Hello Rob,
Freshly cut green oak is unlikely to take any treatment effectively, it will simply be too wet. If yours has weathered for 10 years then you are likely to be at a point where you can apply a treatment.
The first thing to start with is a preservative and one of our most popular is the Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-premier-wood-preservative). This preservative will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. It won’t kill current infestations and for this you may need a specialist treatment or the Barrettine Woodworm Killer (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-wood-worm-killer)
If you have a read up of products and feel free to come back to me if you have any questions.
All the Best Samantha.
Please Help! I have (had?) a pale, stripped oak school desk that is very precious to me, and my husband randomly decided while I was away that it was “looking a bit pale and flaky” and wiped it down with sunflower oil. Yes, you read that right. Sunflower oil.
It is now a hideous orangey-tan colour, with darker patches here and there. Is there anything I can do to save my desk?