What Everyone Should Know About Finishing Oak

|Tim Hagger

Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.

A Little History of Oak

Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.

The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?

Acorns growing on an oak tree

Acorn of the mighty oak tree.

Treating Oak Wood

With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:

  • When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
  • The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
  • Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
  • The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Weathered oak with a grey-silver appearance

Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.

Traditional oak barrel

Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.

If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:

Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.

If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:

Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.

If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:

If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.

Unfinished oak panels

Unfinished oak.

Treated oak panels

Treated oak.

One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.

Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:

Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.

If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.

Oiling Consideration

If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.

Interesting Oak Stats

  • Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
  • Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
  • Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
  • Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
  • Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
  • A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!

Need help finishing a project made with oak?

For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great oak-related blogs to consider

469 comments

Reply to Avril:

Hello Avril,

No worries, I am always happy to help. Osmo Wood Reviver Power Gel (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-reviver) is a great product for restoring the colour of greyed wood. Its difficult for me to recommend a product to further protect the wood without knowing what is currently on there. If you would like to email me directly at wood@finishes.direct with the details of the current finish and how you would like the wood to look and I can make some suggestions.

For the table, water marks from pots can be difficult to remove as a concentration of water has repeatedly effected the area and staining may be deep, sanding may be the only option. Please send some pictures and we may be able to assess this further.

All the Best Samantha.

Sam •

We’ve used Osmo on white oak before and have been thrilled with the results. We would like to use it on a red oak table top, but we are unsure of what the oiled red would look like with the clear or natural Osmo. Will this be too red or too dark? We want something very natural and pale. I was considering the white tint Polyx, but would that make the red have a pink tint after a few applications? Thanks for the help!

Joseph •

Reply to Joseph:

Hello Joseph,

It would be fair to say that a clear oil is likely to enhance the natural tones of the wood and so may well bring our the red tones that you have in the Oak. Wiping a damp cloth over the bare wood will give an indication of what the wood will look like. It is definitely worth getting some sample sachets to try first as even the white oil may pull out some natural tones of the wood.

Try some test area and get back to me if you have any further questions.

All the Best Samantha.

Sam •

Hi Sam

Great website!

I am building an outdoor kitchen area and was considering installing solid oak worktops to match adjacent sleepers and posts. I have treated other areas with preserver and Osmo oil clear but appreciate the horizontal work tops are likely to suffer more from water / sun exposure. Any suggestions on best products to use?

James

James Bray •

Reply to James Bray:

Hello James,

This is still likely to be your best option because of the ease of maintenance and repair. You are right in that the horizontal surface is more susceptible to damage and faster wear and tear and so more regular top ups with the oil when the wood needs it will help to protect for longer.

You could go down the route of applying a varnish and this may certainly offer longer protection and better durability, maintenance is more difficult however and should the seal brake or the varnish flakes, due to moisture getting underneath, it can be harder to repair, with the need to strip back and start again. One option would be the Sadolin Classic Wood Protection (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/sadolin-classic-wood-protection) which comes in a range of colours.

If you have a read up of the products and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

Kind Regards Samantha.

Sam •

Thanks Sam

I have been advised to use oxalic acid to remove the black marks – is that something you would recommend?

Can I apply the UV Protection Oil Extra direct to the oak (omitting the Preservative?)

Can I order it online and what is the delivery time?

Steve

Steve Griffiths •

Hi Sam,

I have just erected a fresh sawn, heartwood oak, post and beam veranda. It looks amazing but has got some black ‘rub’ marks from the fork lift,etc. How can I clean these marks off?

We want to retain the fresh sawn look and resist the oak from silvering. What’s the best way/product to use?

Thank you in anticipation

Steve Griffiths

Steve Griffiths •

Reply to Steve Griffiths:

Hi Steve,

If the black marks don’t come off with using a medium or course Woodleys Finishing Pad (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/woodleys-finishing-pads) then you may have to consider sanding those off.

For protection, with the natural look I would recommend a coat of Osmo WR Base Coat (4001) (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wr-base-coat) first and then two thin coats of the UV Protection Oil Extra (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-uv-protection-oil) . You will need to carry out a test area first as you are applying to heart wood. I would normally recommend the Teak Oil as it is slightly thinner and more suited, however it does not have UV filters in it.

For even better protection from the sun, applying a product that has a small amount of pigment will increase the UV filters. So for example Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-stain-protector)

If you have a read up of the product and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.

All the Best Samantha

Sam •

Hi, I have just bought two pieces of 30mm thick waney oak to use as internal windowsills in a bright kitchen, the oak table and doors are a light oak. Could you please advise what would be suitable to seal and protect. Is the bark edge likely to fall off? Thanks

Colin •

Reply to Colin:

Hello Colin,

Thank you for your enquiry, you could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin (1101) (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-wax-finish-extra-thin) which is ideal for hardwoods such as Oak. It will give a natural look and feel to the wood, whilst helping to protect and make the wood water repellent. It will darken slightly to give what we call the ‘damp look’. You can get an idea of how the oiled wood will look by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the bare wood.

The bark edge should not fall off but it is better to avoid allowing the wood to dry out too much. I hope this helps, if you have a read up of the product and feel free to let me know if you have any questions. Always try a test area first.

Kind Regards Samantha.

Sam •
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