Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.
A Little History of Oak
Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.
The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?
Acorn of the mighty oak tree.
Treating Oak Wood
With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:
- When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
- The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
- Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
- The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.
Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.
If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 2 coats of Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.
If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 3–5 coats of high-quality tung oil such as Morrells Tung Oil
Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.
If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:
- 1 coat of clear wood preservative
- Followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain
- Followed by 1 coat of clear Osmo UV Protection Oil 420 Extra
If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.
Unfinished oak.
Treated oak.
One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.
Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:
- If an oiled finish is preferred, then apply two thin coats of Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural or Osmo Polyx Oil Raw.
- If a varnished finish is preferred, then 1 part Manns Classic Wood Dye can be mixed with 50 parts Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.
Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.
If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.
Oiling Consideration
If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.
Interesting Oak Stats
- Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
- Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
- Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
- Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
- Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
- A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!
Need help finishing a project made with oak?
For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
469 comments
Hi. Have purchased second hand oiled oak table. Would like to darken it considerably. Is there an ‘easy’ method.
Reply to Lyn:
Good Afternoon Lyn,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. My best advice would be to sand back to bare wood, this will ensure a good base for any product that you will use and opens up your options for a range of achievable looks.
Oil finishes have the benefit of looking and feeling very natural and they are easy to apply, clean and maintain. Hard Wax Oil offer enough durability for dining tables and coffee tables. To add colour you could have a look at the Tints Ranges from Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-tints) there are some darker tones in this range or alternatively the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-colour-foundation)
These penetrative oils penetrate the surface of the wood and require just two very thin coats to be applied. They do require application to bare wood.
There is a chance that if the current oil finish is fairly old then a light sand will be enough before application however test areas are required and this will not give the best finish. For further advice please feel free to call in and speak to one of our friendly advisers on 01303 213 838 or via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
All the Best Samantha.
I have three green oak timbers to install as part of a new stud wall in an old 1780s house. What’s the best product to paint them black. Also do I need to treat all surfaces pre installation?
Thanks
Dan
Reply to Dan Read:
Good Afternoon Dan,
When you say ‘Green Oak’ is it freshly felled ? Been allowed to dry naturally or kiln Dried? The reason I ask is ‘Green Oak’ will have a naturally high moisture content and can not have treatment applied whilst the moisture levels are still high. Within months you will get problems with either the treatment or mould. Perhaps if you can get in touch via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page with some further details. I can advice further.
Kind regards Samantha.
We had a green oak porch built in Feb this year and all the rain water is coming though at the bottom and marking all the wood. The wood is not drying out as we have had so much rain. Any suggestions please many thanks
Reply to Andrea jones:
Hello Andrea,
Its a bit of a catch 22 you have there as I can not advice treating the wood unless it has dried out but you need to apply treatment to protect the wood from moisture.
If it is ‘Green Oak’ which is freshly cut oak that has not been naturally or kiln dried, it is design to dry slowly over time, moving and flexing as it does with some cracks appearing to give that rustic oak look. Green oak can not be treated as it has a high moisture content that you should not seal in.
As a guide ‘green’ wood will dry approximately 1 inch in thickness per year. So as you can imagine it will take a while for some Green Oak structures to be at a stage where they are ready for treatment and for many people even at this stage they do not apply anything as the like the way that the wood ages.
All that said I would not expect a porch structure to allow water in, are you able to email me directly with further details or photos and I may be able to help further. You can email me via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page
Kind regards Samantha.
We have just had a green oak porch constructed and I have applied 2 coats of Fiddes high build wood oil and have made the mistake of not applying a clear preservative first. Is this a “panic situation” your advice would be welcome. Thanks. Stuart
Reply to Stuart Chandler:
Hello Stuart,
Unfortunately you will not the able to add a preservative now with out removing all the current finish first. That said its not the end of the world. The Fiddes will repel moisture which is the biggest cause of mould and mildew.
It would be fair to say the protection of the wood will be some what reduced with out the preservative however if you allow the oil to do its job over the winter months, it will wear naturally, and then when you feel the wood is ready, wipe down with White spirits or lightly sand and then see if the oil has worn away enough to accept a preservative, you may need to wait a little longer, if it doesn’t just keep an eye on the woods overall condition and try again after a few months.
I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please do let me know.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello Samantha,
My partner and I have purchased a small oak barrel with the intention of it being signed as a guest book for our upcoming wedding. As of now, the barrel is untreated. Our initial idea was to have guests use fine-tipped sharpies to sign it at our wedding and then stain and wax the wood afterwards. However, would the sharpie ink bleed through the natural wood? Is it best to stain the wood first before signing and then wax it afterwards? What would be your recommendation. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
Sincerely,
Kris Kucharik
Reply to Kris Kucharik:
Good Morning Kris,
I am sorry that I have not got back to you sooner. If you want to stain the barrel, you should this before the wedding. Sand the wood to give good base for the stain and you could have a look at the Morrells Light Fast which is a solvent based stain, it will give good colour to the wood and will not raise the grain. Test areas are strongly recommended and avoid the exposure to moisture before you are able to seal it.
Once you have all the signatures you can then seal with either a wax such as Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-wax) or a for more durability a Varnish Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-interior-varnish) Take care when applying not to over work, I don’t think the sharpies will smear but just in case.
Congratulations on your wedding and if you get chance I would love to see some photos of the Barrel.
Kind regards Samantha.