The British DIY scene first got going properly in the 1950s. Today, more than half a century later, there are more types of wood finishes on the market than you can shake a stick at. There’s everything from colours to stains, paints, polishes, oils, waxes and varnishes, all designed to help you make your wood look good enough to eat.
About wood finishes
Beautiful, durable and unusual, contemporary or traditional, here’s our comprehensive guide to the most popular and widely used wood finishing products in town.
About wood stain – perfect for colouring wood and cork
There are all sorts of wood stain products on the market, including water-based, solvent-based and oil-based versions. Whether you want to stain a wood floor, furniture or something else altogether, and whether it’s an exterior or interior wood stain, they’re all easy to apply, allow the beautiful grain to show through and deliver a superb, durable, colourfast finish. Best of all, these days there are all sorts of beautiful wood stain colours to choose from, as well as the usual gorgeous browns and dramatic black.
What is wood stain made of and how does it work? We can’t really put it better than Wikipedia. Here’s what they say about wood stains:
“A wood stain consists of a colourant suspended or dissolved in an agent or solvent. The suspension agent can be water, alcohol, petroleum distillate, or the actual finishing agent (shellac, lacquer, varnish, polyurethane, etc.). Coloured or ‘stained’ finishes, like polyurethane, do not penetrate the pores of the wood to any significant degree and will disappear when the finish itself deteriorates or is removed intentionally.
Pigments and dyes are largely used as colourants. The difference between the two is in the size of the particles. Dyes are microscopic crystals that dissolve in the vehicle and pigments are suspended in the vehicle and are much larger. Dyes will colour very fine grained wood, like cherry or maple, which pigments will not. Those fine-grained woods have pores too small for pigments to attach themselves to. Pigments contain a binder to help attach themselves to the wood.
The type of stain will either accentuate or obscure the wood grain. Most commercial stains contain both dye and pigment and the degree to which they stain the appropriate wood is mostly dependent on the length of time they are left on the wood. Pigments, regardless of the suspension agent, will not give much colour to very dense woods but will deeply colour woods with large pores (e.g. pine). Dyes are translucent and pigments are opaque.”
Polyurethane varnish – satin to gloss and everything in between
Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is a clear, water-based polyurethane varnish for interior wooden surfaces.
Polyurethane varnishes are essentially liquid plastics suspended in a water-, oil- or solvent-based carrier and are available in finishes such as matt, satin and gloss. The water-based version doesn’t smell much and usually has low levels of toxicity. It goes on clear, with no colour, and dries fast. On the downside, it isn’t great at coping with heat and chemicals. It’s perfect for any wood that won’t be exposed to extremes of temperature and weather. Oil-based polyurethane projects require a respirator, and you should always work in a well-ventilated area. Oil-based polyurethane takes longer to dry than water-based varnish.
As a general rule, wood varnish provides a tough, transparent, protective finish with no added colour. Varnishes are also useful when applied on top of wood stains, where they bring out the colour and add protection. Some products combine stain and varnish to provide a one-stop finish. And there are special products designed for high-traffic areas.
About shellac
Shellac is a natural varnish. Here’s what the DIY Network says about it:
“This finish is actually a natural product (it’s made from combining a secretion from the female lac bug with a solvent such as alcohol) that is very safe once dried and hardened. In addition to adding a protective coat, it also can add a warm amber colour to wood. It can be affected by heat (white rings will appear under a hot bowl or mug) or chemicals, so a kitchen table might not be the best place to use it. Fine furniture items can be greatly enhanced with Shellac. Some Shellac manufacturers recommend using it as a protective coat on non-wood items. Apply it with a natural bristle brush or with a cotton rag.
Shellac is available in most home centres as a liquid in a can. It also comes in solid form or in flakes that must be dissolved, and it has a shorter shelf life than other finishes. The liquid variety is the best option for the average homeowner.”
Wood paint – colouring your world
Specialist wood paint comes in more or less any colour on the planet, ideal for completely changing the look, feel and mood of your wood, inside and out. Our top tip? Always take the surface right back to bare wood to get the best-quality, best-looking and most durable finish.
Wood oils – inside and out
Manns Premier Top Oil is a hard-wearing all-in-one oil that enhances and protects wooden worktops.
Wood oils have for many years been a popular way of protecting interior and exterior wooden surfaces. Traditionally, oils such as Danish oil, tung oil and linseed oil were used, and they still are. Alternative products called ‘hard wax oils’, formulated from a blend of natural oils, waxes and resins, provide better durability and protection and have become increasingly popular in recent years. Osmo Polyx Oil and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil offer an easy way to protect wooden surfaces, including floors, doors, stairs, kitchen worktops and more. Exterior wood oils are also available to give a clear or coloured, opaque or semi-translucent finish to sheds, fences, garden furniture and any number of other exterior wooden features.
Wood preservative – making wood last longer
Ronseal Total Wood Preserver is a highly penetrative, solvent-based wood preserver for exterior timbers.
Rot, algae and mould are wood’s worst enemies. Creosote is nasty stuff, no longer available to the public, messy and toxic, but luckily there are plenty of excellent alternatives, both solvent- and oil-based. We particularly rate Ronseal Total Wood Preservative, which does all this for your interior and exterior wood:
- Penetrates deep to prevent rot and decay
- Kills woodworm
- Protects against reinfestation
- Colours and preserves rough and smooth exterior wood
- Repels water
French polishing – a process, not a product
French polishing is a wood finishing technique that gives a wonderful high-gloss finish, deep colour and shine. It consists of applying multiple thin coats of shellac dissolved in alcohol with a special pad lubricated with oil. The finish is more delicate than modern varnishes and lacquers and is prone to white, cloudy marks when you spill liquids on it.
It tends to be a job for the experts, but here’s an excellent YouTube video about how to do French polishing:
Wood dye – a popular and simple wood treatment
Wood dye is brilliant stuff, available in brilliant colours as well as black, white and various lovely, natural wood colours. You can use it neat if you want a strong, vibrant finish or dilute it for something more subtle. You can even mix the primary colours together to create beautiful, unusual shades and heritage-like colours. It can even be used to tint various other wood treatments and wood finishes.
Manns Classic Wood Dye is a water-based interior wood dye, ideal for both softwoods and hardwoods.
We love Manns Classic Wood Dyes and, as we do with all our products, we have created a detailed guide on the product page about how to use them to best effect.
Wood polish – plus plenty of elbow grease
Wood polish is one of our most popular wood finishing products. Wood polishes give a splendid mirror finish to wood and are especially good for use on precious furniture. Top-quality wax polish plus elbow grease is the way to go, and over time your hard work results in a stunning shine. Unless, of course, you want to go matt, in which case we can recommend a product for that, too. Take a look at our range of wood polishes and get inspired.
Any questions?
Do you want to know more about wood finishing, types of wood finishes or how to choose the best wood finishes for the job? Give us a call and we’ll be delighted to help.
54 comments
Hi. I have an oak wooden beam as a mantle piece above my log burner – installed by hetas registered fitters so should be the correct distance. The beam seems to be splitting across the top and bottom with the heat. I know this is a natural process but I can now put my finger it the crack along the top and it is no longer flat for putting things on! Is there any product that I could put on the beam to prevent it getting worse? Many thanks.
Reply to Liz:
Hello Liz,
I am sorry but this is not my field and would not like to guess at the best way to prevent it from getting worse. An Oil will definitely nourish the wood and may help with regular application but I feel that advice form the company that fitted the beams is the best option for you. I am sorry that I can not be of more help – Sam
Hi I’m going to respray my kitchen cabinets. They are solid wood doors and melamine carcass. Can you tell me what is the best primers and topcoats to use
Reply to Phil:
Hello Phil,
Thank you for your question, which product to go with will depend on the finish and look that you are trying to achieve. If you are spraying then a lacquer, such as Morrells Pre Catalyst Lacquer or for colour Morrells Fast Match Pre Cat Lacquer (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/morrells-fastmatch-pre-cat-lacquer) are a good place to start. Please let me know if you would like any other recommendations.
Kind regards Sam.
Please recommend a suitable cover for a wooden pub floor.
Reply to umjaan:
Hello,
Can you tell me if the floor will be taken back to bare wood or are you looking to treat a pre-existing finish, if so what finish is currently on the floor. Also are you looking for a clear or coloured finish ?
Kind regards Sam.
Hi
I have had a new glass staircase with ash balustrade fitted.
I would like to keep it looking as natural as possible with a Matt finish.
What treatment do you recommend French Polish or Danish Oil ?
Thanks for your help.
Reply to Barbara:
Hello Barbara,
Thank you for your inquiry, you could consider using a Hard Wax Oil to finish your Ash, such as the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening). This is a protective treatment that will soak into the surface of the wood and leave it as unchanged as possible. It is easy to apply, just requiring 2 thin coats and will last for a few years before you need to do a maintenance coat.
Danish Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/danish-oil) is a good option also, but it may darken the wood slightly however and it will also require a couple more coats than the Hard Wax Oil. I would advise a test area with whichever product you decide to use. And if you have any further questions please let me know.
Best Wishes Sam.
Hi there
I have oiled solid oak side board that unfortunately my children park drinks on – it has got water marked.
I have sanded the top and got rid of nearly all the oil and would like to protect it with a more water resistant finish but I would still like it to match the rest of the sideboard so I do not have to refinish the whole lot. I already have some osmo worktop Matt finish could I use that? Or would you recommend an alternative I can send a photo
Thank you for your help
Reply to Sue:
Hello Sue,
It would be great if you where able to send a photo to our email wood@finishes.direct and we can have a proper look for you. In the mean time you could do a small test area with the Osmo that you have to see how well it will colour match with the rest of the sideboard. I would anticipate that if the previous product was an oil then the finish will be very similar, but a test area would always be our advice. If you find that the finish is completely different then you can remove the test area by wiping with White Spirits or sanding. let us know how you get on – Sam