The British DIY scene first got going properly in the 1950s. Today, more than half a century later, there are more types of wood finishes on the market than you can shake a stick at. There’s everything from colours to stains, paints, polishes, oils, waxes and varnishes, all designed to help you make your wood look good enough to eat.
About wood finishes
Beautiful, durable and unusual, contemporary or traditional, here’s our comprehensive guide to the most popular and widely used wood finishing products in town.
About wood stain – perfect for colouring wood and cork
There are all sorts of wood stain products on the market, including water-based, solvent-based and oil-based versions. Whether you want to stain a wood floor, furniture or something else altogether, and whether it’s an exterior or interior wood stain, they’re all easy to apply, allow the beautiful grain to show through and deliver a superb, durable, colourfast finish. Best of all, these days there are all sorts of beautiful wood stain colours to choose from, as well as the usual gorgeous browns and dramatic black.
What is wood stain made of and how does it work? We can’t really put it better than Wikipedia. Here’s what they say about wood stains:
“A wood stain consists of a colourant suspended or dissolved in an agent or solvent. The suspension agent can be water, alcohol, petroleum distillate, or the actual finishing agent (shellac, lacquer, varnish, polyurethane, etc.). Coloured or ‘stained’ finishes, like polyurethane, do not penetrate the pores of the wood to any significant degree and will disappear when the finish itself deteriorates or is removed intentionally.
Pigments and dyes are largely used as colourants. The difference between the two is in the size of the particles. Dyes are microscopic crystals that dissolve in the vehicle and pigments are suspended in the vehicle and are much larger. Dyes will colour very fine grained wood, like cherry or maple, which pigments will not. Those fine-grained woods have pores too small for pigments to attach themselves to. Pigments contain a binder to help attach themselves to the wood.
The type of stain will either accentuate or obscure the wood grain. Most commercial stains contain both dye and pigment and the degree to which they stain the appropriate wood is mostly dependent on the length of time they are left on the wood. Pigments, regardless of the suspension agent, will not give much colour to very dense woods but will deeply colour woods with large pores (e.g. pine). Dyes are translucent and pigments are opaque.”
Polyurethane varnish – satin to gloss and everything in between
Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish is a clear, water-based polyurethane varnish for interior wooden surfaces.
Polyurethane varnishes are essentially liquid plastics suspended in a water-, oil- or solvent-based carrier and are available in finishes such as matt, satin and gloss. The water-based version doesn’t smell much and usually has low levels of toxicity. It goes on clear, with no colour, and dries fast. On the downside, it isn’t great at coping with heat and chemicals. It’s perfect for any wood that won’t be exposed to extremes of temperature and weather. Oil-based polyurethane projects require a respirator, and you should always work in a well-ventilated area. Oil-based polyurethane takes longer to dry than water-based varnish.
As a general rule, wood varnish provides a tough, transparent, protective finish with no added colour. Varnishes are also useful when applied on top of wood stains, where they bring out the colour and add protection. Some products combine stain and varnish to provide a one-stop finish. And there are special products designed for high-traffic areas.
About shellac
Shellac is a natural varnish. Here’s what the DIY Network says about it:
“This finish is actually a natural product (it’s made from combining a secretion from the female lac bug with a solvent such as alcohol) that is very safe once dried and hardened. In addition to adding a protective coat, it also can add a warm amber colour to wood. It can be affected by heat (white rings will appear under a hot bowl or mug) or chemicals, so a kitchen table might not be the best place to use it. Fine furniture items can be greatly enhanced with Shellac. Some Shellac manufacturers recommend using it as a protective coat on non-wood items. Apply it with a natural bristle brush or with a cotton rag.
Shellac is available in most home centres as a liquid in a can. It also comes in solid form or in flakes that must be dissolved, and it has a shorter shelf life than other finishes. The liquid variety is the best option for the average homeowner.”
Wood paint – colouring your world
Specialist wood paint comes in more or less any colour on the planet, ideal for completely changing the look, feel and mood of your wood, inside and out. Our top tip? Always take the surface right back to bare wood to get the best-quality, best-looking and most durable finish.
Wood oils – inside and out
Manns Premier Top Oil is a hard-wearing all-in-one oil that enhances and protects wooden worktops.
Wood oils have for many years been a popular way of protecting interior and exterior wooden surfaces. Traditionally, oils such as Danish oil, tung oil and linseed oil were used, and they still are. Alternative products called ‘hard wax oils’, formulated from a blend of natural oils, waxes and resins, provide better durability and protection and have become increasingly popular in recent years. Osmo Polyx Oil and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil offer an easy way to protect wooden surfaces, including floors, doors, stairs, kitchen worktops and more. Exterior wood oils are also available to give a clear or coloured, opaque or semi-translucent finish to sheds, fences, garden furniture and any number of other exterior wooden features.
Wood preservative – making wood last longer
Ronseal Total Wood Preserver is a highly penetrative, solvent-based wood preserver for exterior timbers.
Rot, algae and mould are wood’s worst enemies. Creosote is nasty stuff, no longer available to the public, messy and toxic, but luckily there are plenty of excellent alternatives, both solvent- and oil-based. We particularly rate Ronseal Total Wood Preservative, which does all this for your interior and exterior wood:
- Penetrates deep to prevent rot and decay
- Kills woodworm
- Protects against reinfestation
- Colours and preserves rough and smooth exterior wood
- Repels water
French polishing – a process, not a product
French polishing is a wood finishing technique that gives a wonderful high-gloss finish, deep colour and shine. It consists of applying multiple thin coats of shellac dissolved in alcohol with a special pad lubricated with oil. The finish is more delicate than modern varnishes and lacquers and is prone to white, cloudy marks when you spill liquids on it.
It tends to be a job for the experts, but here’s an excellent YouTube video about how to do French polishing:
Wood dye – a popular and simple wood treatment
Wood dye is brilliant stuff, available in brilliant colours as well as black, white and various lovely, natural wood colours. You can use it neat if you want a strong, vibrant finish or dilute it for something more subtle. You can even mix the primary colours together to create beautiful, unusual shades and heritage-like colours. It can even be used to tint various other wood treatments and wood finishes.
Manns Classic Wood Dye is a water-based interior wood dye, ideal for both softwoods and hardwoods.
We love Manns Classic Wood Dyes and, as we do with all our products, we have created a detailed guide on the product page about how to use them to best effect.
Wood polish – plus plenty of elbow grease
Wood polish is one of our most popular wood finishing products. Wood polishes give a splendid mirror finish to wood and are especially good for use on precious furniture. Top-quality wax polish plus elbow grease is the way to go, and over time your hard work results in a stunning shine. Unless, of course, you want to go matt, in which case we can recommend a product for that, too. Take a look at our range of wood polishes and get inspired.
Any questions?
Do you want to know more about wood finishing, types of wood finishes or how to choose the best wood finishes for the job? Give us a call and we’ll be delighted to help.
54 comments
Hi
We are making an outdoor bench from used scaffold boards and would like to have a natural finish that very slightly darkens (enriches) the pine and enhances the grain – yet isn’t too yellow or blotchy. From research I’m not sure if a clear oil/ varnish would do this or if we’d need to use a light stain and/or wood conditioner / sealer? -It’s a minefield!! Any help you’re able to offer would be really appreciated.
Many thanks
Amanda
Reply to Amanda:
Hello Amanda,
Thank you for your inquiry. It would be fair to say that any clear product you apply is likely to highlight the natural tones of the wood. So with Pine you may find it highlights to yellow or orange of the pine. Even applying light coloured oils can also have this impact and so I would recommend you try a sample size first.
You could have a look at the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-uv-protection-oil), as this will help to maintain the colour and give some water repellency too the wood. Applying something with a slight pigment will also improve the UV protection, the darker the colour the better the protection.
I hope that helps and please feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi
I have a few items of furniture made from crates and pallets, and now have a baby on the move, and wondered if there was anything I can coat the wood with to ensure baby doesn’t get splinters, whilst keeping the furnitures rustic appearance?
I’ve sanded the furniture down as a start.
Thanks
Rachael
Reply to Rachael:
Hello Rachael,
We do not have anything that will prevent splinters as such. Good sanding to remove loose bits and then maybe a couple of coats of varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-interior-varnish) will help to reduce the chance of splinters. It will however lose that natural look and feel. Always try a test area first and if you have any further questions I am happy to help.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi,
We have just laid birch plywood flooring in our open plan extension (kitchen, diner, lounge) and we are looking for advice on the best product to protect it with. We have also just stripped back the pinewood floors in the rest of the house and will need to protect these also.
We have a dog and soon to a have a baby so we would like to make all of the flooring as durable and hard wearing as possible, in a natural matt finish. I’d be grateful for any suggestions.
Thanks,
Emily
Reply to Emily:
Hello Emily,
Thanks for your questions. There are a couple of options to consider and my first recommendation would be the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil). This is a durable and hard wearing product that will be suitable for your flooring. It gives a natural look and feel to the wood. It is also easy to patch repair and maintain over time, so any scratches or worn areas are easy to refresh if needed. For a busy space with dogs and children you may want to refresh every couple of years but this requires minimal effort.
The other option is Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-floor-varnish). This is a surface sealer that will be more durable than the Hard Wax Oil and is likely to last longer. It is slightly harder to maintain in that if the varnish is damaged or scratched patch repair is difficult and more often you would have to strip the whole floor back and start again to avoid continued damage and moisture ingress.
So both products have benefits and it just depends on which suits your needs better and the finish that you are looking to achieve. Both are available in sample sizes so that you are able to carry out test areas first. If you have a read up of the products and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
We also have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7-tgwbsUxm73aVnAjLGHRA) that cover product comparison and application hints and tips.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi
I have just had a green oak beamed ceiling installed and was hoping to leave the timber as natural looking as possible, but have been advised by the builder that the beams will need to be sealed to prevent staining when the the walls are plastered. Please could you suggest a product or method for protecting the beams.
Many thanks
Andy
Reply to Andy:
Hello Andy,
I can tell you that plaster dust is a nightmare to get rid of when it stains a surface. The more you can cover the beams up the better. Temporary Plastic covers if possible, because a seal on the wood will stop the plaster getting on the wood but may still adhere to the seal that you use.
For beams we often recommend Wax (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-wax) as it gives a little protection and leaves the wood looking natural. But my advice would be to cover those beams as best you can. And if there is anything further that I can help with please do not hesitate to let me know.
All the best Samantha.
Hey there. I am sanding down a spalted maple live edge round slab to make into a coffee/side table. I will be selling this item when it’s finished. Not knowing where the end home will be what kind of finish should I use. I was thinking a coat of tung oil with a poly finish on top. Help? Any tips?
Reply to Sam:
Hello Sam,
You will find a Hard Wax Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil) will give great protection to the wood and is easy to repair and maintain. It soaks into the surface of the wood and leaves it microporous allowing the wood to breath. If you have a read up of the product and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
All the Best Sam.