Interior doors have a lot to contend with, from everyday knocks, bumps and scuffs to handprints, dirt from passing pets and more. So how do you keep wooden interior doors looking great when exposed to all this and more throughout the years?
If you’ve bought a set of lovely new interior doors, or are thinking about renovating or restoring some old period feature doors, our top tips will help you to get the best out of them so they look wonderful and stay protected for longer.
Antique Walnut Internal Doors – from simonemarro.it
Choosing the right door treatment
It’s amazing just how many interior door types there are. There are two-, four-, six- and eight-panel doors, made from oak, pine, walnut or cherry, to name just a few. Door construction can also vary from solid wood to veneered or engineered. Internal doors can also be finished or unfinished.
What are door finishes?
A door finish is the treatment that protects wooden doors from day-to-day wear and other hazards associated with busy environments. Interior doors are usually finished with an oil, varnish, wax or paint. The choice of door finish usually comes down to the desired appearance (clear, semi-translucent or opaque), the sheen level (matt, satin or gloss), the amount of protection it offers, ease of maintenance and, of course, budget. All things considered, making the right choice can be a challenge.
Pre-finished interior doors
When buying pre-finished internal doors, you can usually find out which type of finish they have by checking the manufacturer’s literature. If this doesn’t make it clear, ask the seller or even the manufacturer themselves. It’s worth asking if they can supply the name of the finishing product and brand, as this may be useful for door cleaning and maintenance. Although interior doors can be waxed, most pre-finished wooden doors are varnished or oiled, as these finishes provide the best all-round durability.
Unfinished interior doors
Unfinished doors come with a world of possibilities. There are countless options in terms of colour and finish choices. They can be stained to virtually any colour or shade and sealed to a matt, soft satin or gloss finish with a clear or coloured wood wax, door oil or varnish. If you prefer to keep the natural, untreated look of the wood whilst protecting doors from day-to-day dirt and knocks, this can be achieved too.
Varnished Interior Wooden Doors – from TompkinsConstruction.com
Types of door finishes
Most ‘clear’ door finishes tend to enhance the natural character and grain of the wood by slightly darkening the timber to give it an almost damp-looking appearance. Wood oils tend to darken and enhance the wood the most, followed by clear varnishes, then clear waxes. It is recommended to always do a test area before finishing any door to assess product suitability and the final finish.
Varnishes for interior doors probably offer the best all-round protection. Whilst most ready-to-use varnishes are ideal for homes and other domestic properties, 2-pack or 2-part varnishes offer better durability for doors in commercial environments such as shops, flats and community halls, and for other doors that are subject to a high degree of contact and use. The disadvantage of varnishes is that, should they become worn, chipped or badly scratched, the only real option is to sand the doors back to bare wood and refinish them.
Top 3 Wood Varnishes for Interior Doors
- Manns Extra Tough Door Varnish: A highly durable, clear, water-based varnish for wooden interior doors, door frames and architraves. Provides a high level of protection against knocks, scuffs, scratches and day-to-day wear.
- Ronseal Diamond Hard Interior Varnish: A general-purpose, fast-drying interior varnish that is suitable for internal doors and other wood trim in domestic settings. Available in a range of sheen levels.
- Fiddes Clear Glaze: A solvent-based, high-build polyurethane varnish for interior wood. Formulated to be super durable and recommended for use on high-demand surfaces, including bar tops, doors, floors, wood panels and joinery.
Door oils offer almost as much protection from dirt, moisture, scuffs and scratches as varnishes do. Available in a range of clear and coloured variations and a range of sheen levels, door oils have the benefit of being very easy to apply, maintain and repair. If an area of a door becomes stained, scratched or worn, it can be cleaned and re-oiled for a seamless repair, making it as good as new. Clear door oils will darken and enhance the natural character and grain of the wood. If a more natural, untreated finish is preferred, using Osmo Door Oil Raw 3033 will offer the same level of protection whilst better retaining the untreated look of the wood. This product is designed for lighter-coloured timbers such as pine and oak and is not suitable for dark exotic timbers like mahogany, iroko and walnut, as it may produce a slightly milky-looking finish.
Top 2 Internal Door Oils
- Osmo Door Oil: A highly durable, protective door oil for all softwood and hardwood internal doors. Suitable for solid wood, engineered and veneered doors, including oak and pine. Available in both a clear and a ‘Raw’ version. The ‘Raw’ version better retains the natural, untreated look of lighter-coloured wooden doors.
- Manns Premier Door Oil: A premium-grade door oil that enhances and protects solid wood, engineered and veneered interior doors and dries to a natural matt finish.
Wood waxes have been used to protect wood for centuries and produce a silky-smooth finish that has a distinct, unmistakable waxy feel. Like door oils, waxes are quick and easy to apply, maintain and repair but don’t offer the best durability. Waxed doors can mark easily in high-moisture environments and if water is splashed onto them. They can also be scuffed and marked more easily.
Top 3 Wood Waxes for Interior Doors
- Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish: A high-quality wax polish suitable for interior doors and other wood. Available in clear and a range of other colours, it can be applied and left for a natural wax look or buffed to increase the sheen.
- Manns Classic Beeswax Polish: A clear, traditional, high-quality beeswax for use on sealed and unsealed interior wooden doors and other surfaces. Can be applied over previously oiled or varnished doors to produce a luxurious wax finish.
- Osmo Uviwax: A unique product that is more like an oil but dries to a wax-like finish. Contains UV filters that help to prevent the natural yellowing and fading of interior doors exposed to direct sunlight. Dries to a gentle satin-matt finish.
Things to check before finishing unfinished doors
At Wood Finishes Direct, we often receive calls from people who have bought veneered interior doors, only to discover that the door label advises against using some types of wood finishes. More often than not, this means wood oils such as Danish oil, teak oil, door oils and hard wax oils, but it can also include wood waxes and wood varnishes. But does it really mean you can’t use these products? If so, do you risk damaging the wood? It’s an interesting point and one worth investigating further.
What is a veneered door?
Veneered wooden doors are usually made from a hollow or solid wooden core. The core can be made from solid timber, particle board or medium-density fibreboard, AKA MDF. A layer of high-quality wood veneer is attached to the core of the door using powerful glues and bonding agents. The quality of modern veneered doors is usually down to the type of core, the type of wood used and the thickness of the veneer.
About 20th-century mass production of doors
Wood veneers have been used for centuries to produce high-quality finishes. But mass production in the mid to late 20th century saw quality take a tumble as the drive for cheaper, thinner veneers and glues took hold. This sometimes led to door veneers delaminating or peeling off in extreme heat or when certain products, usually solvent-based finishes, were used. In reality, things have moved on a great deal since then and the risks of delamination are virtually non-existent. So why do door manufacturers still warn against using certain products?
Why do manufacturers still warn against using wood finishes on veneered doors?
It’s estimated that most veneered doors originate from the Far East. It’s highly likely that these door manufacturers have taken the lead from one of the larger producers, giving warnings about wood finishing products without checking whether the risk is genuine. Unlike the manufacturers, we at Wood Finishes Direct are well placed to talk about wood finishes – it’s our area of expertise. We supply a vast range of different products from different manufacturers, all of whom agree that stains, waxes, varnishes, oils, paints and so on do not penetrate deeper than 1 mm into a veneer.
Why does the thickness of the veneer matter? Modern veneers are rarely less than a millimetre thick, and because modern wood finishes never penetrate more than a millimetre into the surface of the wood, there’s very little chance of them interacting with the glue that bonds the veneer to the core of the door. In short, unless the veneer is very thin, badly manufactured and/or badly glued, modern wood finishes simply can’t penetrate deeply enough to cause the veneer to peel off.
Modern wood finishing products designed for veneers
In our experience, we’ve never come across anyone using a wood oil, wax or varnish that has caused a door veneer to peel off. It just doesn’t happen. In fact, companies like Osmo and our own Manns brand produce door oils and other wood finishes specifically designed for solid wood, engineered and veneered interior doors.
There’s just one common-sense thing to bear in mind: while we can say with confidence that the products we sell are perfectly fine to use on interior doors, using them against the manufacturer’s advice will likely invalidate any warranty that comes with the door.
Reclaimed 1930s Interior Wood Doors – from chesterpaintstripping.com
Always do a test area
Our advice if you want to stain, oil, wax or varnish any sort of door is to always do a test area first, ideally where the wood can be sanded if the product doesn’t deliver the finish you were expecting. After all, you see and use your doors dozens of times a day, so it’s important to be happy with the final finish.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging. Take your time with any preparation, apply the door finish as directed on the tin and it’s safe to say that you can’t go far wrong.
Need expert help with your doors?
Do you need help with your interior doors? Our wood finishing experts are always on hand to offer free project and product advice. So, if you have a question about a door finishing, restoration or renovation project, contact our team of wood finishing experts to get the help you need to achieve the perfect door finish.
Want to know how to finish a door with a door oil? See our YouTube video below, which explains how best to oil wooden doors.
Need help with your wooden doors?
For more information about wooden door projects, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any interior door project. If you would like to share your door project pictures with us and our followers, send us your photos or share them on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
157 comments
Reply to Gemma:
Hello Gemma,
If warm soapy water does not work to remove the finger prints then try wiping down with some White Spirit (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-white-spirit). This should remove the marks, any stubborn stains may need sanding back. Once clean and dry you re ready to apply your Beeswax. Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Our flat is 10 years old…we moved in 4 years ago. Heavy oak doors throughout but have no idea of their finish…builders went out of business. I would like to know best way to clean off greasy finger marks, especially on dirty edges. I used a spray wood polish and removed some black dirt from the edges but don’t want to proceed further without advice. Also my kitchen is oak and cherry wood…have used warm mildly soapy water (Fairy liquid) for sticky stuff, then used spray polish. I used to be a shiny Formica finish girl but I’ve learned to appreciate the feel and look of wood.
Regards Geraldine
Reply to Geraldine:
Hi Geraldine,
Its difficult to advice of how to clean without knowing what the finish is. Often we advice White Spirit (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-white-spirit), however if the doors are oiled then white spirits will remove the oil as well and the marks.
If you are able to get a drop of oil on a horizontal surface, if the door has some decorative detail, then you can leave the drop of oil (vegetable or olive) on the surface for 30 minute to an hour. If the oil remains unmoved then you are likely to have a varnish, where as if the oil soaks in or move you may have an oil or wax finish. This will help to move forward with what can be adviced for cleaning. You can email me via the contact page if that is easier.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi. I’ve just had 7 York internal oak Veneer doors fitted from wickes. The carpenter that fitted them suggested using Danish oil. I know of the warranty being invalid but which is the easiest to put on, oil or varnish. And which would need the least upkeep?
Many thanks
Matt
Reply to Matt Palmer:
Hello Matt,
A varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-interior-varnish) will be longer lasting and more durable than an oil. However an oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil) is easier to repair and maintain over time and gives a more natural look and feel to the wood.
With no damage, I would expect the varnish to last 5 – 10 years, whereas the oil will likely be more like 2-4 years for doors. But the varnish will need to be removed if it gets damaged whereas the oil can simply be over coated when needed. If you have a look at the recommendations and feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.
Kind regards Samantha
Hi Sam, I’ve just had an oak staircase and banister fitted. What products would you recommend to see and finish? The joiner recommended Ronseal ultra tough polyurethane varnish but is there a better alternative? Many thanks. Ross.
Reply to Ross Innes:
Hello Ross,
There are basically two option for a project like this, the first is to apply Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-interior-varnish), which is the more durable product and will last longer. It is a seal on the surface of the wood. The second is an Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil), which is also durable and hard wearing but less so than the varnish. It soaks into the surface of the wood and gives a more natural look and feel to the wood.
The Oil finish although not as long lasting as the varnish is far easier to repair and maintain over time, so both have there plus side. If you have a read up of the recommended products and feel free to let me know if you have any questions. Always try a test area first.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hello, I have been plastering a wall and some of the plaster dropped onto a new solid oak door that has need stained, it has taken some of the stain off, what can I do ?? Many thanks Carol
Reply to Carol fardy:
Hello Carol,
I would recommend that you lightly sand the effected area and restain. If you no longer have the original stain or do not know what it was, please feel free to get in touch via email at wood@finishes.direct with a photograph of the door and any relevant information such as if it is an oil or varnish on the door. And hopefully I can help further to resolve the issue that you have.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi,
Recently purchased 4 x untreated oak Vaneer internal doors, very much like the colour they are at present.
I’m aware I need to treat them, could you tell me the advantage of, varnish, wax or oil? Is one better longer lasting?
I do have a 5 year old son and all the doors are for upstairs including bathroom and 3 x bedrooms.
I’ve looked at the omro polxy oil looks like it might do the job but also unsure of the finish ( Matt, semi Matt etc) which has the most non shiny natural finish?
Many thanks
Simon