Interior doors have a lot to contend with, from everyday knocks, bumps and scuffs to handprints, dirt from passing pets and more. So how do you keep wooden interior doors looking great when exposed to all this and more throughout the years?
If you’ve bought a set of lovely new interior doors, or are thinking about renovating or restoring some old period feature doors, our top tips will help you to get the best out of them so they look wonderful and stay protected for longer.
Antique Walnut Internal Doors – from simonemarro.it
Choosing the right door treatment
It’s amazing just how many interior door types there are. There are two-, four-, six- and eight-panel doors, made from oak, pine, walnut or cherry, to name just a few. Door construction can also vary from solid wood to veneered or engineered. Internal doors can also be finished or unfinished.
What are door finishes?
A door finish is the treatment that protects wooden doors from day-to-day wear and other hazards associated with busy environments. Interior doors are usually finished with an oil, varnish, wax or paint. The choice of door finish usually comes down to the desired appearance (clear, semi-translucent or opaque), the sheen level (matt, satin or gloss), the amount of protection it offers, ease of maintenance and, of course, budget. All things considered, making the right choice can be a challenge.
Pre-finished interior doors
When buying pre-finished internal doors, you can usually find out which type of finish they have by checking the manufacturer’s literature. If this doesn’t make it clear, ask the seller or even the manufacturer themselves. It’s worth asking if they can supply the name of the finishing product and brand, as this may be useful for door cleaning and maintenance. Although interior doors can be waxed, most pre-finished wooden doors are varnished or oiled, as these finishes provide the best all-round durability.
Unfinished interior doors
Unfinished doors come with a world of possibilities. There are countless options in terms of colour and finish choices. They can be stained to virtually any colour or shade and sealed to a matt, soft satin or gloss finish with a clear or coloured wood wax, door oil or varnish. If you prefer to keep the natural, untreated look of the wood whilst protecting doors from day-to-day dirt and knocks, this can be achieved too.
Varnished Interior Wooden Doors – from TompkinsConstruction.com
Types of door finishes
Most ‘clear’ door finishes tend to enhance the natural character and grain of the wood by slightly darkening the timber to give it an almost damp-looking appearance. Wood oils tend to darken and enhance the wood the most, followed by clear varnishes, then clear waxes. It is recommended to always do a test area before finishing any door to assess product suitability and the final finish.
Varnishes for interior doors probably offer the best all-round protection. Whilst most ready-to-use varnishes are ideal for homes and other domestic properties, 2-pack or 2-part varnishes offer better durability for doors in commercial environments such as shops, flats and community halls, and for other doors that are subject to a high degree of contact and use. The disadvantage of varnishes is that, should they become worn, chipped or badly scratched, the only real option is to sand the doors back to bare wood and refinish them.
Top 3 Wood Varnishes for Interior Doors
- Manns Extra Tough Door Varnish: A highly durable, clear, water-based varnish for wooden interior doors, door frames and architraves. Provides a high level of protection against knocks, scuffs, scratches and day-to-day wear.
- Ronseal Diamond Hard Interior Varnish: A general-purpose, fast-drying interior varnish that is suitable for internal doors and other wood trim in domestic settings. Available in a range of sheen levels.
- Fiddes Clear Glaze: A solvent-based, high-build polyurethane varnish for interior wood. Formulated to be super durable and recommended for use on high-demand surfaces, including bar tops, doors, floors, wood panels and joinery.
Door oils offer almost as much protection from dirt, moisture, scuffs and scratches as varnishes do. Available in a range of clear and coloured variations and a range of sheen levels, door oils have the benefit of being very easy to apply, maintain and repair. If an area of a door becomes stained, scratched or worn, it can be cleaned and re-oiled for a seamless repair, making it as good as new. Clear door oils will darken and enhance the natural character and grain of the wood. If a more natural, untreated finish is preferred, using Osmo Door Oil Raw 3033 will offer the same level of protection whilst better retaining the untreated look of the wood. This product is designed for lighter-coloured timbers such as pine and oak and is not suitable for dark exotic timbers like mahogany, iroko and walnut, as it may produce a slightly milky-looking finish.
Top 2 Internal Door Oils
- Osmo Door Oil: A highly durable, protective door oil for all softwood and hardwood internal doors. Suitable for solid wood, engineered and veneered doors, including oak and pine. Available in both a clear and a ‘Raw’ version. The ‘Raw’ version better retains the natural, untreated look of lighter-coloured wooden doors.
- Manns Premier Door Oil: A premium-grade door oil that enhances and protects solid wood, engineered and veneered interior doors and dries to a natural matt finish.
Wood waxes have been used to protect wood for centuries and produce a silky-smooth finish that has a distinct, unmistakable waxy feel. Like door oils, waxes are quick and easy to apply, maintain and repair but don’t offer the best durability. Waxed doors can mark easily in high-moisture environments and if water is splashed onto them. They can also be scuffed and marked more easily.
Top 3 Wood Waxes for Interior Doors
- Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish: A high-quality wax polish suitable for interior doors and other wood. Available in clear and a range of other colours, it can be applied and left for a natural wax look or buffed to increase the sheen.
- Manns Classic Beeswax Polish: A clear, traditional, high-quality beeswax for use on sealed and unsealed interior wooden doors and other surfaces. Can be applied over previously oiled or varnished doors to produce a luxurious wax finish.
- Osmo Uviwax: A unique product that is more like an oil but dries to a wax-like finish. Contains UV filters that help to prevent the natural yellowing and fading of interior doors exposed to direct sunlight. Dries to a gentle satin-matt finish.
Things to check before finishing unfinished doors
At Wood Finishes Direct, we often receive calls from people who have bought veneered interior doors, only to discover that the door label advises against using some types of wood finishes. More often than not, this means wood oils such as Danish oil, teak oil, door oils and hard wax oils, but it can also include wood waxes and wood varnishes. But does it really mean you can’t use these products? If so, do you risk damaging the wood? It’s an interesting point and one worth investigating further.
What is a veneered door?
Veneered wooden doors are usually made from a hollow or solid wooden core. The core can be made from solid timber, particle board or medium-density fibreboard, AKA MDF. A layer of high-quality wood veneer is attached to the core of the door using powerful glues and bonding agents. The quality of modern veneered doors is usually down to the type of core, the type of wood used and the thickness of the veneer.
About 20th-century mass production of doors
Wood veneers have been used for centuries to produce high-quality finishes. But mass production in the mid to late 20th century saw quality take a tumble as the drive for cheaper, thinner veneers and glues took hold. This sometimes led to door veneers delaminating or peeling off in extreme heat or when certain products, usually solvent-based finishes, were used. In reality, things have moved on a great deal since then and the risks of delamination are virtually non-existent. So why do door manufacturers still warn against using certain products?
Why do manufacturers still warn against using wood finishes on veneered doors?
It’s estimated that most veneered doors originate from the Far East. It’s highly likely that these door manufacturers have taken the lead from one of the larger producers, giving warnings about wood finishing products without checking whether the risk is genuine. Unlike the manufacturers, we at Wood Finishes Direct are well placed to talk about wood finishes – it’s our area of expertise. We supply a vast range of different products from different manufacturers, all of whom agree that stains, waxes, varnishes, oils, paints and so on do not penetrate deeper than 1 mm into a veneer.
Why does the thickness of the veneer matter? Modern veneers are rarely less than a millimetre thick, and because modern wood finishes never penetrate more than a millimetre into the surface of the wood, there’s very little chance of them interacting with the glue that bonds the veneer to the core of the door. In short, unless the veneer is very thin, badly manufactured and/or badly glued, modern wood finishes simply can’t penetrate deeply enough to cause the veneer to peel off.
Modern wood finishing products designed for veneers
In our experience, we’ve never come across anyone using a wood oil, wax or varnish that has caused a door veneer to peel off. It just doesn’t happen. In fact, companies like Osmo and our own Manns brand produce door oils and other wood finishes specifically designed for solid wood, engineered and veneered interior doors.
There’s just one common-sense thing to bear in mind: while we can say with confidence that the products we sell are perfectly fine to use on interior doors, using them against the manufacturer’s advice will likely invalidate any warranty that comes with the door.
Reclaimed 1930s Interior Wood Doors – from chesterpaintstripping.com
Always do a test area
Our advice if you want to stain, oil, wax or varnish any sort of door is to always do a test area first, ideally where the wood can be sanded if the product doesn’t deliver the finish you were expecting. After all, you see and use your doors dozens of times a day, so it’s important to be happy with the final finish.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging. Take your time with any preparation, apply the door finish as directed on the tin and it’s safe to say that you can’t go far wrong.
Need expert help with your doors?
Do you need help with your interior doors? Our wood finishing experts are always on hand to offer free project and product advice. So, if you have a question about a door finishing, restoration or renovation project, contact our team of wood finishing experts to get the help you need to achieve the perfect door finish.
Want to know how to finish a door with a door oil? See our YouTube video below, which explains how best to oil wooden doors.
Need help with your wooden doors?
For more information about wooden door projects, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any interior door project. If you would like to share your door project pictures with us and our followers, send us your photos or share them on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
157 comments
Reply to Sam:
Hello Sam,
Thank you for getting in touch. I would expect the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-colour-foundation) to be ideal for your doors. Two very thin coats are all that will be required and I would always recommend a test area first to ensure that you like the finish that will be achieved. We have the sample sachets available on our website to allow you to try before you buy a larger tin.
I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all I am here to help.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi,
I have bought a pre finished oak veneer door, I understand that I need to finish it.. I would like to keep the colour it already is what would you recommend?
Many thanks
Michael
Reply to Michael:
Good Afternoon Michael,
Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Often new veneered doors come with some warnings about products that they do not recommend. And often oils are included in this as they are believed to impact on the veneers adhesive. It is the manufacturers being very cautious as here at Wood Finishes Direct we have never had a customer report back to us that this has happened.
And so to keep the wood looking as natural and untouched as possible but still offering good protection you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening) this contains a minute amount of pigment to counteract the darkening effect of a clear oil.
A test area as always is recommended to ensure that you like the finish to be achieved. if you are unable to use an oil then you could also consider a wax, it is not as protective but will leave the wood looking quite natural, Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-wax)
If there is anything further that i can help with please do not hesitate to get in touch.
Kind Regards Samantha.
Hi there, we’ve just had 17 oak veneered doors fitted (Howdens) and now need to finish them. Our joiner has recommended a lacquer instead of a varnish – what would you recommend, please? Thanks.
Reply to Christine Macfarlane:
Good Afternoon Christine,
There are a wide range of finishes that are suitable for use on doors Door Finishes (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/door-treatment) these range from oils, varnishes and paints. If you want to stick to a surface sealer such as varnish or lacquer, which are almost the same thing I would recommend the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-interior-varnish) this is a durable finish that comes in a range of sheens to suit your needs, it is available in a sample size and I would recommend this to carry out a test area first.
If you take a look at this product and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.
Kindest Regards Samantha.
Please can you tell me the difference between using a stain and a varnish? Would a stain be sufficient to seal and provide protection for unfinished doors?
Could you please recommend a stain and varnish which could be used to have as little effect on the colouring of the untreated wood as possible (I quite like the current colour of the untreated doors).Many thanks
Reply to Emma M:
Good Morning Emma,
Thank you for getting in touch with your question. A stain is to give colour to the wood and a varnish is to seal and protect the wood. That’s the simple answer, however in reality it is not quite that simple as many products that are called stains are actually a coloured varnish and so offer colour and protection and some varnishes come in coloured finishes so it is not always clear on what type of product you have and often manufacturers will use clever words to describe there product with out actually telling you what the product is.
Luckily we have a great team of advisers who know a lot about wood finishing products and if you wanted to call and talk to one of them they will be very happy to help – 01303 213 838.
For your doors, if they are internal, you will not require a stain as you are not looking to change the colour instead if you look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/fiddes-hard-wax-oil-oak-lightening) it is an oil that soaks into the surface of the wood and leaves it looking and feeling very natural and it leaves the wood looking as natural as possible. Sample size sachets are available and I would strongly recommend test area first.
If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get int ouch.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi we have 8 genoa oak doors from howdens. At the recommendation of our builder we applied danish oil. I’ve only done one which was hung and when ready to do the unopened ones I saw the notice – no oils wax etc. Only done 1 coat and it looks good.
Before I do the other 7 my question is… Should I?,!
Or should I try and remove the oil and use something water based as howdens recommended.? Would I ever get the one I’ve done back to normal? It’s gone darker. Will it go light and be removed with white spirit?
Should I just replace the one door and do all 8 in the recommended stuff?!
Help me please.
Reply to Kelly C:
Good Afternoon Kelly,
Worry not it is a common issue that I am regularly asked about. Many many years ago when veneers became very thin, applying an oil could result in a reaction with the adhesion. This would cause veneers to peel away, however this was a long time ago and both glues and veneers have moved on since then. Manufacturers however still worry about this occurring and so recommend against the use of anything that can impact on the adhesive.
Here at Wood Finishes Direct we have never come across a customer who has had this issue with their veneered doors. However any guarantees that you have with these doors will be void if you use a product that is not recommended.
We often recommend the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/manns-extra-tough-interior-varnish) as an alternative option. You will have to remove the Danish oil first in order to apply the varnish however and you can do this with White Spirits or light sanding.
I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please do feel free to get in touch via our contact page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi there,
I’ve read the comments above which have been really helpful! We’ve recently had some new oak veneer doors fitted and we’re hoping we can use oil instead of varnish but I’m a bit worried as we had to trim quite a lot off of some of the doors due to funny shape and sized doorways (it’s an old Victorian house). This has meant that the veneer was removed and the door was trimmed to the wood below on some sides. We fitted side trim over the top to make it smarter, but I’m worried that this makes a thin gap where oil could seep to the wood and adhesive below. What do you think?
Thanks so much!