Kitchen worktops come in a huge variety of materials and styles, from man-made laminate and composite materials to natural materials such as stone, granite, quartz and wood. All of these give a very specific look and feel, and while some worktops can be relatively cheap, others can cost thousands.
One of the more popular kitchen worktop materials, both traditionally and today, is wood. In terms of durability, wood is up there with the best, but unlike stone, slate and granite worktops, it’s less likely to get chipped, lose a corner or suffer from a jagged or damaged edge. Even if it does, repair is usually quicker, easier and cheaper.
When it comes to wooden kitchen worktops, there’s a wide range of woods to choose from, with the more common ones being oak and beech. Other woods such as walnut, iroko and bamboo are also available, as are other more exotic and rare wood types, but these usually come at a higher cost.
Wooden kitchen worktop care
Although wood is a great material for kitchen worktops, it does require some care to keep it looking great and functioning well. Wood oils have been used for centuries to protect and preserve wood, and although the same is true today, new types and blends of oils are more commonly used.
The pros and cons of wooden kitchen worktops
By its nature, wood is porous, meaning that if it’s left untreated, liquids, juices and bacteria from meats and other sources can seep into the surface grain, discolouring and staining the wood. More importantly, the unsealed wood can create the perfect environment for germs and bacteria to collect and breed.
A common issue with poorly maintained kitchen worktops is black mould around taps and sinks. This is usually caused by water damage and mould spores growing in the surface of the timber, encouraged by warm, damp conditions. Although this sounds serious, as long as the worktop hasn’t been varnished, it can usually be remedied by scrubbing the black areas with a mould and mildew cleaner. This will remove the black staining and kill off the bacteria and spores responsible. In severe cases, a second treatment may be required. Once the wood has been successfully treated and cleaned, it’s ready for oiling.
The great news is that wooden worktops can look fabulous, and even if they’ve been neglected and abused, left with stains, marks and discolouration, it’s usually a fairly easy process to get them looking amazing again with little more than a light sanding, some white spirit and the all-important worktop oil.
Why does oiling wooden worktops work?
Simply speaking, oiling wooden worktops works by filling the surface grain of the timber with natural oils and waxes that dry and harden in the surface fibres of the timber. This acts as an effective wood preserver and sealer, helping to prevent moisture and bacteria from entering the wood grain.
Wooden worktop oil – old v new
A question that we’re often asked is “Which is the best oil for wooden worktops?” Wood oils such as tung, linseed and Danish oils have always been used to protect and preserve work surfaces and other types of timber, and are still commonly used today. So why use a modern worktop oil? “Which is best?” we hear you ask. Traditional wood oils and the newer ranges of wooden worktop oil products differ in several ways.
Ease of use – application and drying times
The number of coats can depend on the type and condition of the wood. Many of the traditional oils may require anything from 3 to 7 coats to be effective, and with drying times of around 24 hours between coats, oiling a wooden worktop could take as long as a week. In comparison, most modern top oils require just 2 thin coats and are dry in 4 to 8 hours, depending on the oil brand and environmental conditions.
Worktop durability
In terms of durability, traditional wood oils tend to require maintenance on a more regular basis as they dissipate in the wood and evaporate from the surface of the worktop more quickly than their modern equivalents. Modern purpose-made worktop oils are made from specially formulated blends of waxes and oils that harden in the surface of the wood to form a durable, protective barrier.
Oil penetration in the worktop surface
Modern kitchen worktop oils are highly refined and are blended with solvents to thin them and aid penetration into the surface of the wooden worktop. In many cases, especially on denser woods, traditional wood oils will not penetrate into the wood as well unless they are first thinned with turps.
It’s true to say, however, that even with modern top oils, some are better suited to specific wood types than others, depending on how dense the wood is and how thin the worktop oil is. Some products such as Manns Premier Top Oil and Osmo Extra Thin 1101 are especially great for denser timbers such as beech, bamboo and walnut worktops, while Holzol Worktop Oil is a great all-rounder.
The great thing about oiled wooden worktops is that they look great and are easy to maintain and repair, even if they do become stained, scratched or worn-looking. For more on the subject, we’ve created a great video that shows how easy it is to apply a solid wood worktop oil.
An additional bonus of top oil products is that because they are completely food- and child-safe when dry, they’re perfect for rejuvenating and restoring wooden chopping boards and other wooden kitchen utensils.
Top tip
Applying a top oil to a kitchen worktop will enhance the natural colour, grain and character of the timber. If you’re installing a new worktop or renovating an old one by sanding, wipe over a small section with a slightly damp (not wet) cloth or sponge to get a good indication of how the worktop will look when oiled. See our full range of wooden worktop oils here.
Need help with your wood oil project?
For more information about wood oils and their uses, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.
We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share them on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.
86 comments
Hi Sam
This is all really useful advice – thank you!
We have year old walnut worktops in our kitchen, which I have finished with Rustin’s Danish Oil.
Tbh, it’s not providing much of a barrier, and even with conscientious and almost constant drying, water spots are getting through.
Is there a better or more appropriate finish I should be using? I’ve seen the Osmo wood wax (1101) and Fiddes hard wood wax recommended variously.
Would these be suitable?
Also, would I need to take back the current finish to bare wood and start again to apply them?
Thanks!
Matt
Reply to Matt Garrill:
Hi Matt,
As Walnut is a very dense, naturally oily wood it requires a thinner oil so that it can penetrate and protect. The Osmoo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin is perfect for Walnut but the previous finish will need to be completely removed.
Hope that helps!
Reply to Alison:
Great. Thanks so much for your response
Is that definitely a better option than Danish Oil as it’ll be quite an undertaking for me to remove it all!
It Worktop Express (from whom I bought the worktops) who advised the Danish Oil
Thanks again
Reply to Matt Garrill:
Hi Matt,
The Osmo products do tend to be a lot more durable than traditional Danish Oils and take less maintenance.
Hope that helps you make an informed decision !!
Hi, I am a little lost on how to treat my iroko wood countertops. I was told by the company who sold me my worktops to use the OSMO top oil for countertops but then when doing more research I have found that this isn’t suitable for iroko. I am looking to treat my countertops and keep them as water-repellant / stain-free as possible as the kitchen is pretty much in constant use (we cook a lot) and the worktops are around a large sink area and have a hob set into them where oils and tomato sauce and all those special stainy things are spluttering. Reading around this (very helpful!) website I think I should be using the “Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin” but I wondered whether to make sure that the wood is waterproof enough I should be taking other measures such as using the “Osmo wood protector” as a first coat and then two additional coats of the Wood Wax Extra Thin or/and applying methylated spirits before starting with any products… or something else!
I also was wondering what grit I should be sanding to? On the Osmo website is says anywhere from 120-240 but I can’t figure out what i should sand down to for countertops, and for Iroko. If you have any advice that would be incredibly helpful thank you!
Reply to Olivia:
Hi Olivia,
You are absolutely right. The Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin is the correct product for your project (Iroko) and I would also recommend 1 coat of the Osmo Wood Protector prior to applying the oil.
Hope this helps.
Hello,
This blog has been really helpful.
I have bought a house with solid wood worktop. Its currently very patchy and sticky, along with stains by the sink. Theres also areas where i dropped my vinegar and bicarb mixture which removed the wax/oil, but has left a lovely lighter colour.
I am planning to sand it down to bare wood. I am hoping to keep the pale colour, how can i acheive this, i really dislike the orange. Would i need to use the antibacterial oil first, then the other oils on top, and then top oil. Just a little confused with the order or things. Thank you in advance !
Reply to Mez:
Hello Mez,
Its great to hear that the Blog has helped! To get the best result for your worktop, its vital to ensure good and even sanding, finishing on a 150 to 180 grit sandpaper. Once you have the wood well prepared I would definitely recommend a test area first. A product such as the Osmo Top Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-top-oil) in the Natural 3068. This is designed to maintain that light natural appearance of the wood. Two thin coats will give good protection to a lighter coloured wood and when cleaned with suitable products can last for a number of years before requiring a top up. And that test area will give an indication of how the oil will look on your wood.
If the wood is naturally a darker tone then the Natural 3068 is not ideal, a milky effect could occur, instead you could look at the Clear Satin or Matt options. These will darken the wood slightly and highlight the grain, and you have the advantage of being able to use the Osmo Wood Protector (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-protector) underneath, around the sink area to give an even better level of protection against moisture ingress.
The orange tones that sometimes come from the application of an oil, are usually the result of the wood type, because oils become part of the wood, it can highlight the natural tones, in some cases orange or red. If a clear option results in the finish being too orange then perhaps you could consider a coloured alternative either from the Top Oil range or from the Osmo Polyx Oil Tints (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-colour-foundation)
The great thing about the Osmo products is that they are nearly all available in Sample sizes for test areas. For more help and advice why not get in touch with our friendly team via our contact us (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/pages/contact) page.
Kind regards Samantha.
Hi
I am in South Africa and have teak kitchen worktops that were covered with furniture wax. We have stripped that down and now have bare wood. I have managed to find some Woca Worktop Oil (I haven’t seen Osmo products here). The instructions say to also coat the underside of the wood but the worktops are fixed in place and I can’t get to the underside of the wood. I read somewhere that if you don’t coat the underside, the wood bows. Is this correct? The underside has never been treated so is also raw.
I would appreciate your advice.
Thanks
Claire
Reply to Claire:
Hello Claire,
It is fair to say that application to all areas of the wood, whatever the project, is always better. However the worktop will be fine if you are unable to apply to the underside.
More often than not worktops are fitted before application, workmen are often in a hurry to get things done before you are able to get that treatment applied. Or it could be that you have inherited a worktop when moving to a new house. What ever the reason it is not the end of the world if you are not able to cover all areas. I myself have a solid wood worktop and have only treated the top and sides and so far have had no warping after 3 years.
It does not mean that it will not happen and any areas that are exposed to high humidity, moisture or changing temperatures could be susceptible, and the weather is very different in South Africa compared to the UK, so you may have to factor that in, however most homes are warm and dry and do not have an environment that changes too dramatically through the year.
I hope that helps and please do let us know if you have any further questions.
Kind Regards Samantha.