What Everyone Should Know About Finishing Oak

|Tim Hagger

Welcome to part 2 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing oak & oak wood treatments. If you haven’t already read part 1, feel free to go check it out here: All about Pine Wood.

A Little History of Oak

Oak (or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in the UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction, oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.

The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age, which is typically around 20 years. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’, although it doesn’t quite have the same ring, does it?

Acorns growing on an oak tree

Acorn of the mighty oak tree.

Treating Oak Wood

With regard to finishing and treating oak, there are numerous possibilities, but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straightforward. These are the necessary considerations:

  • When water penetrates oak, it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
  • The sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
  • Clear products are inevitably not completely clear, so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
  • The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.
Weathered oak with a grey-silver appearance

Oak turned grey/silver by UV rays & water damage.

Traditional oak barrel

Oak barrels traditionally used for whisky and beer.

If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of:

Osmo 420 Extra offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.

If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance, then the following is the best:

Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.

If the exterior oak needs to be coloured, then the following system is recommended:

If blackening on exterior oak needs removing, then scrubbing with a fungicidal wash such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner is recommended. On the other hand, it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with Osmo Wood Reviver Gel (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients) is recommended.

Unfinished oak panels

Unfinished oak.

Treated oak panels

Treated oak.

One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it a little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to dampen an area by applying some water with a clean cloth or sponge. The look achieved when the wood is damp/wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.

Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it, whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. A more natural look can be achieved by using wood oils that have been specifically formulated to retain the natural appearance of interior oak. These products include:

Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter), then the colour is kept very natural indeed. It’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example, are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with wax, whereas a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.

If the oak needs to be made darker, then Osmo Polyx Oil Tints or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints are ideal because they colour and protect the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched, it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.

Oiling Consideration

If oak is being oiled, it is a good idea to sand it with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open, thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.

Interesting Oak Stats

  • Oak bark is rich in tannin and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
  • Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
  • Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its colour.
  • Sessile oaks of Europe can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
  • Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000-year-old oaks are also known.
  • A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!

Need help finishing a project made with oak?

For more help and advice on how best to finish oak, contact our team of resident experts who are always on hand to help with project advice and product recommendations.

We love to see before, during and after photos of any wood finishing project. If you would like to share your project pictures with us and our followers, you can either send us some photos or share on our Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram pages.

Other great oak-related blogs to consider

469 comments

Hi
What’s the best finish on an oak worktop that I’ve already stained? I don’t want it to look any darker but want it protected.
Thanks
Warren

Warren •

Reply to Warren:

Hello Warren,

Are you able to email me with details of the product/stain that is already applied. Wood@finishes.direct. It would be easier for me to advise you correctly once I now this.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi Nick
I stained my oak worktop with Manns oak stain. I want to protect it now without darkening the colour. Can I use the Osmo Polyxx oil raw over this stain?
Many thanks
Warren

Warren •

Reply to Warren:

Hello Warren,

Thank you for your inquiry. As it is a darker stain you have applied I would not recommend using Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044) (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil-raw-3044) as it contains a small amount of white pigment, when applied to dark or medium tones the white gets highlighted and can leave a milky effect on the surface. The standard Clear Osmo Polyx Oil (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil) is a better option for a top coat product, it may darken and enhance the colour very slightly but this is usually preferred.

We always recommend doing a small test area with both the stain and top coat before starting any project to ensure that the final finish and colour is suitable.

I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know.

All the Best Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi, we produce presentation pieces using various woods. We are have serious problems when the wood chosen is European oak and the finish required is wax; we use a good quality bees wax based polish. We also have to attach a polished brass plates to the finished piece and finding that the brass is tarnishing exceptionally quickly within the final packaging, sometimes within a matter of hours. We have tried, sealing the brass plate with varnish, but that detracts from the polished surface. We’ve tried using neutral tissue paper, absorbent packing foam, silica gel sachets and masking the brass plate. Nothing seems to work. The only option we have left is to seal the wood and then wax over. What type of sealer would you recommend?

Derek •

Reply to Derek:

Hello Derek,

I am sorry to say that I do not know the answer to your dilemma. The problem seems to be with a reaction between the brass and the finishing products. I would recommend trying a Forum as often people will know about things like this, or even approaching another trophy making company to see how they treat their wood and if they have any similar problems. Sorry that I cannot be of more help.

Kind Regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Hi, I have an extension which consists of anoak frame with patio doors and windows. The external side of the frame (including patio doors) has black staining and also some areas of the frame have faded in colour (grey look) giving a very patchy look. The exterior has previously been coated in tung oil. How would you recommend restoring the exterior to its previous oak look. Thanks.

Andy •

Reply to Andy:

Hello Andy,

The first products I would recommend would be the Mould and Mildew Cleaner (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/barrettine-fungicidal-wash-multicide) from Barrettine and the Osmo Wood Reviver Power Gel (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-wood-reviver). These two products will get rid of any surface mould and algae and with a bit of elbow grease can restore the natural colour of the wood.

Once the wood is clean and colour restored it’s time to protect it with a good quality, clear wood preserver (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/collections/wood-preserver) to help prevent mould, mildew and rot. Then apply top coat of the Osmo Uv Protection Oil Extra (https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/products/osmo-uv-protection-oil) to give water repellency and UV protection. Regular top ups of the oil will help to maintain the wood and prevent the silvering caused by sunlight. Have a read up on these products and let me know if there is anything further that I can help with.

Kind regards Sam.

Sam Taylor-Casey •

Thank you Sam. Have decided to try the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil , as looks easier to apply & also I like the ‘easier to maintain’ aspect
Kind Regards
Angela

Angela M •

Hello Sam,

As a small council in Cornwall, we are looking to implement a ‘green’ policy for the growing number of public seats around the parish.

To this end we are considering standardizing on benches made locally with locally sourced oak for new purchases, with minimal on-going maintenance. We would like these to have an expected life-span of 10 to 15+ years, but are in two minds whether to go with untreated oak, or oiled.

N.B. We have a good number of donors approaching us every year wanting to sponsor memorial benches, so we would expect to replace old benches as soon as the maintenance costs become unreasonable.

Your advice would be appreciated.

Best wishes, Alan

P.S. We will also be proposing colourful recycled plastic ‘wood’ benches too (expected life-span 30 to 50+ years). Sorry.

Alan •
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