{"id":1613,"date":"2014-09-02T11:15:42","date_gmt":"2014-09-02T10:15:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/?p=1613"},"modified":"2024-03-14T14:28:35","modified_gmt":"2024-03-14T14:28:35","slug":"oak-floor-maintenance-top-tips-stunning-finish","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/oak-floor-maintenance-top-tips-stunning-finish\/","title":{"rendered":"Oak Floor Maintenance &#8211; Top Tips for Finishing Oak"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Oak floors are hugely popular, no surprise when the wood is so beautiful, durable and easy to work with. This week we thought it&#8217;d be useful\u00a0to take a look at \n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/oak-floor-maintenance-top-tips-stunning-finish\/\" target=\"_blank\">\nOak floor maintenance<\/a>,\u00a0exploring how to tackle warped boards, fill gaps and finishing Oak\u00a0flooring to gleaming perfection.<\/p>\n<p><!--\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1633\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"540\"]<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-1633 \" src=\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/old_oak_floorboards-earlyoakspecialists-co-uk.jpg\" alt=\"Vintage Oak Floorboards\" width=\"540\" height=\"405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/old_oak_floorboards-earlyoakspecialists-co-uk.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/old_oak_floorboards-earlyoakspecialists-co-uk-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 540px) 100vw, 540px\" \/> Vintage Oak Floorboards from earlyoakspecialists.co.uk[\/caption]\n\n--><\/p>\n<h2>How to maintain an Oak floor<\/h2>\n<p>Before we look at the real thing, here&#8217;s\u00a0some information about Oak laminate flooring, a product with an 8mm or so &#8216;skin&#8217; of Oak glued to a core of HDF, AKA High Density Fibreboard. It&#8217;s Oak&#8230; but at the same time it isn&#8217;t.<\/p>\n<h3>About Oak laminate flooring<\/h3>\n<p>Oak laminate is made using\u00a0advanced DPL (Direct Pressure method) technology, where the various layers are assembled first then squashed together into the right position. The best quality laminate flooring looks so good it&#8217;s hard to tell the difference between it and\u00a0100% Oak boards.<\/p>\n<p>Laminates are\u00a0scratch and mark-resistant, warm, durable and very easy to maintain. There&#8217;s \n<a title=\"oak laminate floor maintenance guide\" href=\"http:\/\/www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk\/info\/advice_centre\/laminate-flooring-maintenance-guide\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\">\nan excellent guide on the UK Flooring Direct website<\/a>.\u00a0Some Oak laminates are guaranteed for as long as 25 years, and occasionally there&#8217;s a lifetime guarantee. But like all wood products, it&#8217;s all down to good ongoing maintenance.<\/p>\n<p>One very important thing to remember: before you do anything at all to your Oak flooring, find out whether it&#8217;s laminate or solid wood. Over sanding can potentially ruin laminate finishes.\u00a0Solid wood floors, on the other hand, respond beautifully to sanding.<\/p>\n<h3>Plastic Laminate Flooring v Engineered Oak Laminate Flooring<\/h3>\n<p>Which type of laminate flooring do you have, real wood or plastic? Plastic or photographic laminate floors are also popular. Their quality varies greatly with the cheapest versions being\u00a0nothing more than a photographic image of wood glued and then sealed onto a core or base, usually made of compressed paper or wood fibreboard.<\/p>\n<p>At the other end of the spectrum, you have high quality synthetic wood, made from very hard and durable plastic coatings. These are quality graded and tend to be anything from 0.5mm to 2mm thick. The advantage of plastic laminate flooring is it&#8217;s completely waterproof, making it perfect for use in bathrooms and other high moisture areas. The disadvantage of plastic laminates is that although minor scratches, dents and gouges can be repaired with a wax filler stick, much the same as a wood repair, they can&#8217;t\u00a0be sanded and refinished like a solid Oak or an engineered Oak floor can.<\/p>\n<h3>About re-finishing a solid Oak floor<\/h3>\n<p>Oak flooring maintenance and refinishing can be hard work. But if you&#8217;re fortunate enough to have a smart, real Oak floor, it&#8217;s the only real way to return it to its original glory. So gird\u00a0your loins and prepare for the long haul! Here&#8217;s how&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Getting rid of curling and warping<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>If your floor has been wet and dried several times, or is very old, it might have warped or curled. No problem &#8211; solid oak planks are almost always\u00a0thick enough to take a really good, thorough, aggressive sanding to mitigate the effects of warping and curling. Be confident, have courage and sand &#8217;til it&#8217;s suitably flat.<\/p>\n<p>If it&#8217;s severely wonky, you can make diagonal passes with\u00a0the drum sander, using a very coarse paper, until the levels look right.\u00a0Just bear in mind that one of the charms of real wood is its natural finish. If you want smooth 100% perfection, you might\u00a0be better off choosing\u00a0a laminate in the first place.<\/p>\n<p><!--\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1637\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"512\"]<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-1637 \" src=\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/ancient-oak-wood-floor.jpg\" alt=\"Old Oak Wood Flooring\" width=\"512\" height=\"322\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/ancient-oak-wood-floor.jpg 640w, https:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/ancient-oak-wood-floor-300x188.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/> Ancient Oak Wood Flooring[\/caption]\n\n--><\/p>\n<p><strong>Filling gaps in a wooden floor<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>You can use Oak dust collected from sanding to fill the gaps in your floor. You mix the\u00a0fine dust generated during the floor sanding process with a wood filler gel to create\u00a0a paste, which you work into\u00a0the gaps a bit like grouting tiles.\u00a0Here&#8217;s a video showing you how&#8230;<\/p>\n<div class=\"embed-responsive embed-responsive-4by3 marginb\" style=\"height: auto; overflow: auto; padding-bottom: 75%;\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" class=\"embed-responsive-item\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/PVpDtH8TkTw\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p>They&#8217;re\u00a0using pine dust to fill gaps in a Pine floor, but it works exactly the same way with Oak.<\/p>\n<p>You can also buy special filling products, for example\u00a0a colour matched filler, which you simply squeeze into the gaps before cleaning off\u00a0any excess. \n<a title=\"Bona Gap Master\" href=\"\/product\/bona-gap-master\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener nofollow\">\nBona Gap Master<\/a>\u00a0comes in 14 colours and is specially designed for the purpose.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Sanding to perfection <\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>If the floor is waxed or polished with a \n<a title=\"Wood Floor Polish\" href=\"\/product-type\/polishes\/project\/floors\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">\nwood floor polish<\/a>, use a wax and polish remover first to remove them otherwise it will very quickly clog up any \n<a href=\"\/product-type\/accessories\/abrasives\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">\nsanding belts or discs<\/a>.<\/li>\n<li>Fill any gaps and cracks before you start sanding, simply because it&#8217;s easier to fill the old finish than it is to fill the wood after it has been sanded and keeps the sanding required to a minimum.<\/li>\n<li>You usually need a couple of machines: a\u00a0drum sander for the main floor area and an edger for the edges.<\/li>\n<li>Unless the floor is very uneven, has many layers of varnish or has the thick black tar-like substance around the edges of the room, try to avoid sandpaper coarser than 60 grit or less, which can cause deep scratches. The more coarse the first sand, the more passes you will need to do with progressively finer sanding grits.<\/li>\n<li>If your floor is level and the finish comes off with ease, you might only need to do two passes: one with 80 grit and one with 100.<\/li>\n<li>Because small scratches in oak blend in with the grain and are usually taken care of by your final finish, there&#8217;s often no need to finish off with 120 grit paper. The floor might be smooth enough with an 80 grit finish. Applying \n<a href=\"\/product\/barrettine-meths\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">\nMeths<\/a> to a test areas is a good way of highlighting any sanding imperfections and indicates if further sanding is required. The purple colour of the meths will show up any pig tails (sanding swirls) in the wood before it evaporates, returning the wood to its bare sanded state. If a non-solvent approach is preferred, water can be used but this will swell the grain which will then require a further light sanding.<\/li>\n<li>The amount of wood that a drum sander will remove from the surface of the wood depends on a number of factors, including the type of machine being used, the grit and type of sanding belt, the type of wood being sanded, i.e. Pine, Oak or another wood species, and the number of passes being made with the sander.<\/li>\n<li>The edger will take care of hard-to-reach areas around the edge, although you will probably need to get down and dirty with a\u00a0floor scraper and mini-hand\u00a0sander for the really fiddly bits.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>How to re-stain your Oak floor<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Now for the fun bit! This is where your floor suddenly starts to look really beautiful.<\/p>\n<p>Oak accepts stains really well because it&#8217;s naturally\u00a0pale.\u00a0You can apply most\u00a0good quality Oak stains with a rag. Oil and water-based finishes are both great to use on Oak &#8211;\u00a0it&#8217;s entirely up to you. The best way to avoid making nasty\u00a0streaks, bubbles and brush marks is to use a floor finish applicator, which makes it easy to follow the grain.<\/p>\n<p>You usually need just 1 or 2 coats of floor stain, with a light sand or denib in between coats, ideally using\u00a0a floor buffer and\u00a0sanding screen. Remember to let each coat dry fully before applying the next, and remove any dust using a vacuum cleaner so it doesn&#8217;t mess up\u00a0the\u00a0next coat.<\/p>\n<p><strong>What about varnishing a solid Oak floor?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Polyurethane varnishes, such as \n<a href=\"\/product\/manns-extra-tough-interior-varnish\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">\nManns Extra Tough Interior Varnish<\/a>, are a popular\u00a0finishing touch because they are available in a range of sheens from Matt through to High Gloss and deliver a lovely\u00a0deep finish and a fine lustre. Most modern water-based varnishes give a clear finish, unlike the super-shiny &#8216;toffee apple&#8217; look of past decades. Depending on the on-pack instructions, you can either use a sheep&#8217;s wool or\u00a0microfibre\u00a0application tool. Most varnish products recommend a minimum of two coats, others may recommend more than two.\u00a0Whatever you do, follow the instructions to the letter &#8211; the last thing you need is to have to sand it all off and start again.<\/p>\n<p>When choosing a \n<a title=\"wooden floor varnish\" href=\"\/product-type\/varnishes\/project\/floors\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">\nwood floor varnish<\/a> for Oak flooring, take care to pick one that is suitable for the task at hand. Is it for a domestic or commercial property? Is it for somewhere where there is heavy foot traffic and heavy wear such as a pub, restaurant or perhaps a community hall? Is there a requirement for anti-slip properties on interior steps or entrance hallways?<\/p>\n<p><!--\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1635\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"540\"]<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-1635 \" src=\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Canadian-red-oak-flooring-sandandseal-co-uk.jpg\" alt=\"Canadian Red Oak Flooring\" width=\"540\" height=\"403\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Canadian-red-oak-flooring-sandandseal-co-uk.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Canadian-red-oak-flooring-sandandseal-co-uk-300x224.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 540px) 100vw, 540px\" \/> Canadian Red Oak Flooring from sandandseal.co.uk[\/caption]\n\n--><\/p>\n<p><strong>What if your floor has water damage?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Dark, unsightly stains are a sign of water damage, often just a matter of long-term seepage and involving moisture rather than actual flooding. When the finish is old and damaged, the moisture penetrates the wood. The only sensible way to get rid of\u00a0the stains is to sand the old finish off then\u00a0bleach the wood back to its original shade. The most popular wood bleaching agents are\u00a0hydrogen peroxide and oxalic acid, both of which are easy to find.\u00a0It&#8217;s worth noting that wood dust containing bleach is toxic, so it&#8217;s important to wear a\u00a0dust musk or other breathing apparatus.<\/p>\n<p><strong>What about a wax finish?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Many modern hardwood floors come with a\u00a0polyurethane or urethane\/acrylic topcoat which protects the wood, in which case it shouldn&#8217;t need to be waxed.<\/p>\n<p>If you love a\u00a0wax finish,\u00a0your floor will\u00a0look great. But\u00a0regular maintenance is important, since\u00a0waxes don\u2019t offer the same durability as a varnish or hard wax oil. They tend to be a better\u00a0choice on older woods or floor boards, where fine scratches and so on\u00a0are\u00a0less noticeable. On a new floor, a scratch in wax can stand out like a sore thumb.<\/p>\n<p>Hardwood floor wax is free from\u00a0silicone, lemon oil, ammonia, bleach, vinegar and Tung oil, all of which can stain the wood or discolour it. Make sure you get proper hardwood floor wax.\u00a0There&#8217;s a choice of wax types.\u00a0Paste wax tends to require\u00a0more hard\u00a0work, while liquid wax needs a bit less elbow grease. And there are some very important caveats:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>It\u2019s not ideal to use wax on raw, natural planks if you plan to varnish at a later date. Waxes can be removed at a later date but it requires a &#8216;Wax and Polish Remover&#8217; and lots of elbow grease. Waxes are commonly used to stain floors different colours and to maintain the colour and appearance of very old waxed floors.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure\u00a0distressed or reclaimed wood floors have been\u00a0properly prepared before applying floor wax.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Your first job is to remove the existing wax finish, which you can do using wax and polish remover. Just grab a mop, some rags and prepare for some hard yet satisfying work.\u00a0Again, it&#8217;s really important to follow the instructions to the letter. A sander can be used but the wax will melt with the friction and will quickly clog the paper meaning more sandpaper will be required.<\/p>\n<p>You don&#8217;t have to stain the stripped surface before you wax, but you can if you like. It&#8217;s an aesthetic decision rather than a practical one. The floor can first be stained with a water-based wood stain then waxed with a clear wax or alternatively, it can be waxed with a coloured wax to both colour and protect the timber in one process.<\/p>\n<p>Waxing usually involves\u00a0several\u00a0layers. It depends on the manufacturer&#8217;s instructions,\u00a0but you almost always have to apply the wax in thin layers, with regular back and forwards\u00a0strokes at an angle to the joints. When you do it this way you fill the gaps between the planks with wax, which can help prevent noisy creaking.<\/p>\n<p>If you like a deep shine, fit a\u00a0buffing pad to your sander&#8230; or just apply more elbow grease. The more you polish, the more it&#8217;ll shine.<\/p>\n<p><!--\n\n[caption id=\"attachment_1634\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"560\"]\n<a href=\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/modern-oak-flooring-peakoak-co-uk.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1634\" src=\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/modern-oak-flooring-peakoak-co-uk.jpg\" alt=\"Stunning Oak Flooring from peakoak.co.uk\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/modern-oak-flooring-peakoak-co-uk.jpg 560w, https:\/\/www.wood-finishes-direct.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/modern-oak-flooring-peakoak-co-uk-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\" \/><\/a> Beautiful Oak Flooring[\/caption]\n\n--><\/p>\n<h3>What about cleaning Oak floors?<\/h3>\n<p>Cleaning Oak floors correctly is the best way to preserve the finish and to keep them looking in tip top condition for longer. The easiest way to protect a floor finish is to dry sweep or vacuum treated floors on a regular basis, especially if located near an entrance and exit point such as a front or back door. Tiny particles of dirt and grit that are walked in from outside can act as an abrasive on wooden flooring, scratching the floor finish and wearing it away over time. Regular sweeping and vacuuming greatly reduces the potential for this surface debris to cause damage.<\/p>\n<p>Cleaning Oak and other wooden floors with a dedicated \n<a title=\"wood floor cleaners for Oak and other wooden floors\" href=\"\/product-type\/cleaners\/project\/floors\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">\nwood floor cleaner<\/a> will help to remove surface scuffs and marks. Wooden floor cleaners are specially formulated to be pH-balanced and non-abrasive so they&#8217;ll clean the floor without wearing away the finish.<\/p>\n<h3>Need help? We&#8217;re always pleased to provide expert advice<\/h3>\n<p>Like all wood projects, maintaining Oak flooring\u00a0comes with risks. If you&#8217;re a beginner or first timer and could do with some solid, sensible, expert advice, feel free to \n<a href=\"\/contact-us\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\">\ngive us a call<\/a>. We&#8217;ll be delighted to help you pick exactly the right products for the job in hand <em>and<\/em> provide insights into exactly how to use them to their best effect.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Oak floors are hugely popular, no surprise when the wood is so beautiful, durable and easy to work with. This week we thought it&#8217;d be useful\u00a0to take a look at Oak floor maintenance,\u00a0exploring how to tackle warped boards, fill gaps and finishing Oak\u00a0flooring to gleaming perfection. How to maintain an Oak floor Before we look [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2261,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[296],"tags":[322,524,335,325,326],"class_list":["post-1613","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-how-to-guides","tag-diy","tag-oak-floor","tag-wfd","tag-wfdirect","tag-wood-finishes-direct"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.9 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Oak Floor Maintenance - Top Tips for Finishing Oak - Wood Finishes Direct<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Oak floors are beautiful, easy to work with and relatively simple to achieve a stunning finish. 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