If that sounds appealing, it’s time to get sanding. Here’s our simple guide about\u00a0how to sand a wooden floor, finish and maintain it. But first, a quick word about letting it lie. If you prefer, you can always leave your\u00a0wood floor to slowly build up a gorgeous, battered patina.\u00a0While sanding and re-finishing delivers a sleek, beautiful, new-looking appearance, there’s no reason why you can’t leave your floor to do its own thing and wear naturally. It’s a style thing.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Why sand and renovate your floor?<\/h2>\n
Newly laid floors are sanded to make them 100% level and old floors are sanded to get rid of old, tatty wood finishes and level out worn areas. If you want to apply a finish to your floor it will always have to be sanded and prepared first.<\/p>\n
Wood floor sanding, finishing and maintenance<\/h3>\n
You’ve decided you want to renovate your old wooden floor. Or give your newly-laid floor a beautiful, durable\u00a0finish. In our two-part\u00a0guide, we’ll\u00a0reveal how to tackle the sanding,\u00a0preparation and\u00a0application of lacquers\u00a0and oils, as well as\u00a0aftercare and maintenance.<\/p>\n
Step 1\u00a0– Sanding and Preparation<\/h3>\n
Before you start sanding back to the bare timber, you need to remove or countersink any screw or nail heads that protrude. The sanding itself takes several stages, depending on the floor’s overall condition, and there are a few important things to take into consideration:<\/p>\n
- \n
- Is the floor solid or engineered? <\/strong>If your floor has already been sanded in the past, can it take any more? You might need to remove a section of the door threshold or skirting board to find out.<\/li>\n
- Which sanding belt or sanding disc grit should be used?<\/strong>\u00a0This depends on the condition of the floor. If it\u2019s badly worn and uneven, start with a coarse sandpaper followed by successively less coarse papers. Sandpaper grits for wooden flooring generally range from 16 through to 150 grit, with 16 being the most aggressive and 150 the finest. Find a full range of \n\nsandpaper and sanding abrasives here<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
Most sanding jobs\u00a0start with around 36 or\u00a040 grit sandpaper, working up to around 120 grit for the final sand.\u00a0If you or your contractor aren’t using a dust-free sanding machine, remember to remove all the dust with a vacuum cleaner between every sandpaper grade change. If possible, save some of the fine sanding dust for later, you’ll need the finest stuff later on, if your floor needs filling.<\/p>\n
Start in the middle of the room and work your way to the edges. Guide the sanding machine carefully around the floor at a middle-range speed, keeping the speed constant and remembering not to leave the machine on one part of the floor for too long, which can lead to gouges which are difficult to even out.<\/p>\n
What about the grain? It’s always best to sand with<\/em> the grain rather than against it, which can leave you with a slightly furry finish because you’re disturbing the grain instead of going with the flow. If it isn’t possible to follow the grain because of the way the pattern is laid,\u00a0there’s a way to overcome it:<\/p>\n
- \n
- For complex herringbone pattern floors<\/strong>, sand in the same direction as the light source.<\/li>\n
- For Parquet flooring<\/strong>,\u00a0sand at a 45 degree angle to the pattern.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Once the central area of the floor has been sanded, it’s time to tackle the edges. This is where edge sanding<\/em> comes in, removing old finish from the room’s perimeter where the belt or drum sanding machine won’t reach. Kick off with a\u00a036 or 40 grit paper then work your way up to the finest.<\/p>\n
It’s best to work in gentle, slow circular movements, working\u00a0your way steadily through the grits from heavy to light. If you miss out\u00a0grit levels you could end up with\u00a0a strange-looking halo\u00a0effect, which shows up even more when you apply the\u00a0wood finish.<\/p>\n
Merv, our resident sanding expert says, “When sanding herringbone or Parquet flooring, it’s always important to sand in the direction of one set of the blocks, usually 45 degrees to the room. Be sure to apply the lacquer in the same direction, this will help prevent demarcation lines (sanding marks) in the final finish.”<\/p>\n
\n ![\"Sanding](\"\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/sanding-direction-herringbone-.png\")
<\/a>Sanding Direction<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n Step 2\u00a0 – Mixing and filling<\/h3>\n
You should have plenty of fine sanding dust left over from your efforts, created by\u00a0the\u00a080-100 grit sandpaper. It’s exactly the right colour to match the floor so mix it with a clear wood filler gel, such as \n\nBona Mix and Fill<\/a> or \n\nOsmo Wood Reviver Power Gel<\/a>, and\u00a0use it to fill any small holes or\u00a0gaps between the planks or parquet tiles, anything up to 6mm. If you have bigger gaps, fill them with a one or two pack \n\nwood filler<\/a> instead.<\/p>\n
Step 3 – Final sanding and preparation<\/h3>\n
You need to carry out a series of final sands to\u00a0smooth your repairs and make the surface finish-friendly. Use a\u00a0circular motion and bring\u00a0100 grit into play, followed by finer\u00a0120 or 150 grit grades. Remove all the dust in between every stage, otherwise residue from the rougher papers can catch under the sander and leave nasty scratches.<\/p>\n
Parquet floors made from tropical hardwoods such as Teak, Mahogany, Walnut and other naturally oily hardwoods may need to be scrubbed with methylated spirit following sanding and prior to varnishing. This is to remove any natural oils from the freshly sanded surface of the wood that might otherwise cause adhesion issues with the varnish. Another precautionary step is to use a primer that is formulated to work better with oily hardwoods such as \n\nBona Intense Primer<\/a> or \n\nManns Trade Intense Primer<\/a>. If the floor is to be stained, the primer is applied once the wood stain has fully dried and has been denibbed.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Step 4 – Applying wood finishes to floors<\/h3>\n
When it comes to choosing \n\nwooden floor finishes and treatments<\/a>, there’s a wide range of different options to suit everyone’s style and needs. If you are lacking inspiration and need help, Pinterest can be a great place to start looking and to get those creative juices flowing.<\/p>\n
Staining<\/strong><\/p>\n
- \n
- Products like\u00a0\n\nMorrells Light Fast Solvent Wood Stains<\/a> are great for delivering\u00a0beautiful wood grain definition and an excellent\u00a0overall colour. Because they’re spirit-based and dry pretty fast, it’s best\u00a0to only apply them\u00a0to one small area at a time to avoid patches.\u00a0Take it easy and you should be fine.<\/li>\n
- Apply your stain with a brush, rag or special mohair pad. Get rid of any excess with a clean, dry cloth to help the final lacquer finish stick properly.<\/li>\n
- Never use an exterior wood stain designed for\u00a0decking, fencing or garden furniture, since they contain water repellents which also repel water-based floor lacquers.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Sealing<\/strong><\/p>\n
- \n
- Always choose a\u00a0water-based floor finish that includes a primer\/sealer, designed to\u00a0enhance the wood’s natural colour and reduce the risk of ‘side bonding’, where the planks or parquet tiles get stuck together. If\u00a0the wood shrinks –\u00a0which it often does because of\u00a0atmospheric conditions, central heating and seasonal temperature changes –\u00a0the lacquer film gluing the wood together cracks, which looks awful.<\/li>\n
- Apply your sealer with a T-bar applicator or a short pile mohair roller. Apply the sealer thinly and evenly and don’t put pressure on the roller. Be gentle, applying no pressure,\u00a0and let the roller\u00a0do the job it’s designed for.<\/li>\n
- When the sealer is completely dry, which usually takes anywhere between two and four hours,\u00a0you can apply your first layer\u00a0of water-based topcoat. You don’t need to do any more sanding.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Lacquering<\/strong><\/p>\n
Did you know that varnish and lacquer are the same thing?<\/strong> The trade tend to refer to varnishes as lacquers, while the public more commonly refer to these products as varnishes.<\/p>\n
- \n
- Again, use a T-bar applicator or a short-haired microfibre roller\u00a0to spread the product evenly over the floor. Remember not to use any downward pressure, instead letting the roller do its job. If you press down you can form\u00a0annoying pools of superfluous lacquer.<\/li>\n
- Leave\u00a02-3 hours to dry completely, after which you should sand the lacquer with a rotary sanding machine (often called de-nibbing) and a 150\/180 mesh screen.<\/li>\n
- Clean off all the dust and debris and you’re ready to\u00a0apply the top\u00a0coat.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Top coat<\/strong><\/p>\n
- \n
- Do you use\u00a0a single pack varnish, such as \n\nManns Extra Tough Floor Varnish<\/a>, or a 2 pack lacquer system, such as \n\nManns Trade Extra Tough Pro Lacquer<\/a>? And do you choose\u00a0a matt,\u00a0semi-mat, satin or gloss finish? As a rule your lounge, bedroom and so on are best given a coat of something like\u00a0Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish or \n\nBona Mega Varnish<\/a>, while\u00a0hallways, bathrooms, kitchens and other heavier wear areas will benefit from \n\nManns Trade Extra Tough Pro Floor Varnish<\/a> or \n\nBona Traffic HD<\/a>. That said, an additional coat of 1 pack lacquer is also a common way to finish high wear, residential areas.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
A typical domestic application in\u00a07 steps<\/strong><\/p>\n
- \n
- Apply one coat of sealer or primer onto the pre-sanded surface<\/li>\n
- Allow it to dry for 2-3 hours<\/li>\n
- Apply\u00a0one coat of floor varnish with microfibre roller or other floor finish applicator<\/li>\n
- Leave it to dry for 4-6 hours<\/li>\n
- Rotary sand the surface with\u00a0150-180\u00a0 grit paper (de-nib) and remove the dust<\/li>\n
- Add a\u00a0second coat of water-based floor lacquer, again using a roller<\/li>\n
- If you want a deeper, fuller finish, you can apply a third\u00a0top coat of varnish<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
Oiled floors<\/h3>\n
Instead of sitting on the surface of the wood, oils sink in for a\u00a0warmer, more natural look. Here’s how to achieve it…<\/p>\n
- \n
- Sand\u00a0through the grit levels until you reach 120, which leaves the wood’s pores open enough to accept an oil finish<\/li>\n
- Apply a thin<\/span> coat of oil using a mohair roller, floor applicator pad, lint-free cloth\u00a0or special solvent-safe\u00a0squeegee<\/li>\n
- Leave it to dry for 4-8 hours depending on the product being used<\/li>\n
- Lightly sand or de-nib the floor with a scotch pad or fine grit sandpaper<\/li>\n
- Vacuum to remove all traces of sanding dust created when de-nibbing<\/li>\n
- Apply a second thin<\/span> coat of oil<\/li>\n
- Wait 12 hours for everything to dry and settle<\/li>\n
- If required, buff your floor to improve the sheen<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
<\/p>\n
Part 2 – Coming next week<\/h3>\n
Next week, in \n\nPart 2 of our Wood Floor Sanding and Maintenance Guide<\/a>, we\u2019ll look at how best to maintain and look after wooden flooring with the help of a \n\nwood floor cleaner<\/a>. In the meantime, if you’d like to discuss how to bring your wood floor back to life with an expert, feel free to \n\ncall our experienced staff<\/a>. They’re always happy to show off their skills,\u00a0advise our customers\u00a0about the best products and pin down the best method for your particular project.<\/p>\n\n\n
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
You’re the proud owner of a beautiful wooden floor, whether it’s a gorgeous old parquet masterpiece or something\u00a0contemporary, perhaps\u00a0in glorious solid Oak. The great thing about wood floors is you can sand them down when they get scuffed, stained\u00a0and grubby, bringing\u00a0the beauty of the grain and the depth of colour back to life so it […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2268,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[296],"tags":[413,520,521,335,325,326],"class_list":["post-1522","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-how-to-guides","tag-flooring","tag-sanding","tag-sandpaper","tag-wfd","tag-wfdirect","tag-wood-finishes-direct"],"yoast_head":"\n
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- Do you use\u00a0a single pack varnish, such as \n\nManns Extra Tough Floor Varnish<\/a>, or a 2 pack lacquer system, such as \n\nManns Trade Extra Tough Pro Lacquer<\/a>? And do you choose\u00a0a matt,\u00a0semi-mat, satin or gloss finish? As a rule your lounge, bedroom and so on are best given a coat of something like\u00a0Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish or \n\nBona Mega Varnish<\/a>, while\u00a0hallways, bathrooms, kitchens and other heavier wear areas will benefit from \n\nManns Trade Extra Tough Pro Floor Varnish<\/a> or \n\nBona Traffic HD<\/a>. That said, an additional coat of 1 pack lacquer is also a common way to finish high wear, residential areas.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
- For Parquet flooring<\/strong>,\u00a0sand at a 45 degree angle to the pattern.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
- Which sanding belt or sanding disc grit should be used?<\/strong>\u00a0This depends on the condition of the floor. If it\u2019s badly worn and uneven, start with a coarse sandpaper followed by successively less coarse papers. Sandpaper grits for wooden flooring generally range from 16 through to 150 grit, with 16 being the most aggressive and 150 the finest. Find a full range of \n\nsandpaper and sanding abrasives here<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n