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F.A.Q and Wood Finishing Advice

With over 28 years experience in the wood finishing trade we've got a wealth of information to help you choose the right finish. If you are unsure on which wood finish to choose, please read through these FAQ's. If you don't see the answer to your question please contact us (please let us know the relevant website page if applicable). If it is a popular question we can include an answer in this section.

What is the best way to match different coloured woods?
By using a product from the same range on each type of wood, that needs to be matched, you can obtain a closer colour match. Where possible, it is best to use a clear coating on the darkest wood and a coloured coating on the lightest wood. Oil is a good option because it penetrates well into the wood, colouring it and protecting it at the same time. With an oil, you can also apply a second coloured coat if the match is not close enough after the first attempt. Hard wax oil is a superior oil that is also available in colours. For example, to match new pine to old pine use 1 part whiskey hard wax oil to 1 part clear hard wax oil on the new wood and just clear on the old wood.

Which product offers the clearest finish?
If you are looking for a clear finish and do not need extra durability we can recommend 3 different consistencies of Wax polish:

What if a wax isn't durable enough and I want a clear finish?
Extra tough clear varnish or hard wax oil offer a clear alternative to the wax products. The difference is that they will slightly darken the colour of the wood, applying a little water to the wood will give you an indication of the final finish. We have had samples of varnishes that claim to keep the wood "Looking exactly as it is before applying the varnish" but they don't actually work. If you know of a product that does keep the wood looking the same but protected then we would love to hear from you. N.B. There is a product called Bona Naturale that is as clear as you can get but it is well over £100 for a 5L tub which will cover about 3 coats on an area that is 15 square metres. We can obtain this product if it interests you. Roughly speaking it will make your wood look somewhere between how it is before anything has been applied to it and how it looks once it has been wetted with water.

What is the difference between wax polish, oil and varnish?

  • Waxes: A wax looks really good but it is not very durable. It is ideally suited to furniture, such as wardrobes or wooden areas such as skirting boards and bannisters, that do no require as much protection. Some customers do use wax on floors but do bear in mind that it needs more maintenance.
  • Oils: Offering more durability than a wax polish, Oils are easy to work with, very easy to repair (sand down scratches then reapply) but they do have slower drying times.
  • Varnishes: Forming a seal on the surface of the wood varnishes are the strongest of all wood finishes. There are two categories of varnish available, solvent-based (lacquers) and water-based. Water-based varnishes are more commonly used and are every bit as good as solvent-based varnishes these days. A 2 pack varnish is the strongest form of varnish and is ideal for high traffic areas where durability is of the utmost importance such as bar tops (the more coats the better). For most projects, such as a shop floor, our extra tough clear varnish is more than adequate and we consistently receive excellent feedback for this product.

How can we tell if the wood has been waxed, oiled or varnished?

If a wooden surface looks like it already has been finished with a product it is always a good idea to find out what that finish is as it may affect which product you should apply to the wood. For example, you could not really apply an oil over a varnished floor, but an existing floor that has been oiled can be re-coated with an oil (once it has been cleaned of course!). Here's a few pointers to find out what your wood has been finished with:

  • Waxed surfaces If it has wax on it you can scrape it lightly with your finger nail (once it has been cleaned). You may get a little wax under your nail. Also you can try buffing it with a cloth. Most surfaces will become shinier once buffed, but a waxed surface will substantially increase in shine.
  • Oiled surfaces Generally speaking oiled surfaces are not that glossy. If you stand something on the surface of an oiled surface it will not have much of a reflection. Instead you are likely to see a fuzzy image reflected. You can also try putting a little white spirit on a small unnoticeable area and if it dissolves the surface coating then it is likely to be an oil, please note however that this may leave a white spot. White spirit will also dissolve most wax polishes so check the above advice (waxed surfaces) before trying this.
  • Varnished Surfaces A varnished surface will be hard to the touch (it will make a clicking sound when you knock your nails on it) and will have a reflective surface. Even a matt varnish will reflect the light more than an oiled surface. If something is stood on the surface (with a window in view behind it) then the reflection is clearly visible. A satin or gloss varnish will have a very clear reflection of anything that is held up to the surface.

What is the advantage of an oil?
The main advantage of oil is that they are the easiest of all wood finishes to repair. A patch repair, for example, where a drink's stain has occurred can easily be removed by simply sanding just the affected area and applying more oil.

What is the advantage of a wax?
A wax looks really nice, with more of a sheen than a gloss. It can be re-waxed as many times as you like and buffed until the required sheen level is obtained or indeed not buffed if a low sheen is preferred.

What is the advantage of a varnish?
It is hard wearing and easily wiped down with damp cloths.

Is there a difference between a lacquer and a varnish?
No, the trade tend to refer to them as "lacquers" and the public tend to refer to them as "varnishes".

Why do you have both a lacquer and varnishes section on your site?
The public often feel they don't need a lacquer and sometimes the trade feel they don't need a varnish so this way we cater for both markets. In our lacquers section we have mainly included solvent based lacquers which are mainly used by the trade and in our varnishes section we have water based products which are recommended for use in the home.

What is the difference between a dye and a stain?
Essentially there is no difference between a stain and a dye, they are both coloured liquids that don't offer a sheen or protection, they simply colour the wood. Our dyes are very concentratedd and are available in the primary colours. Sometimes a product may have the word stain in its' title even though it is a protective coating also. However we believe that a stain should simply stain the wood and not do anything else because a better result will be achieved if clear coats are applied on top of a stain.

Why do you not have a tinted varnish in your range?
Many of the large DIY stores sell a varnish and stain combined because it cuts out the process of staining the wood separately. We are very negative about these types of finishes because the colour tends to be suspended in the varnish on the surface of the wood, rather than being in the grain of the wood. This means that the grain becomes obscured and the beauty of the wood is taken away. A better look, with greater grain enhancement is achieved if a stain is applied firstly with clear coats of varnish on top.

How would you describe a satin sheen?
Another way to describe satin is eggshell. In other words the sheen level is about the same as the surface of an egg when 1 coat has been applied. 2 coats will be a bit shinier.

How would you describe a matt sheen?
No shine or very little shine. However 3 coats of a matt varnish will produce a sheen that is almost the equivalent of a satin.

How would you describe a gloss sheen?
Very shiny, if you hold an object against a piece of wood that has had 2-3 coats of a gloss varnish applied there will be a clear reflection of that product in the wood.

What is the benefit of a water based stain?
They are well priced and very easy to apply. They have very little smell and a large range of colours are available.

What is the benefit of a solvent based stain?
They are quick drying (about 5 minutes) and the grain of the wood is not raised.

Is grain raising (with water based products) something to be concerned about? In short - no, but it is a question of personal taste. The grain doesn't feel rough to the touch, it's more of a textured feel. In other words the pattern of the wood can be felt through the wood finish. Some customers really like to be able to feel the wood. If several coats of varnish are being applied then grain raising is not really an issue because the varnish tends to seal over the grain that has been raised, thus creating a smooth surface.

What is the best way to apply finishes to a floor? A long handle will save a great deal of time and saves on back ache etc. The handle can be attached to a roller or a floor brush. More information on our rollers

What is the best way to maintain my floor? A concentrated cleaner can be mixed with water and the applied with a damp cloth or mop. The general rule is: If the grain of the wood shows through, avoid water. Water on a varnish, wax or oil will take a little of your finish off each time it is used which in turn means your floor will have a shorter life. Using damp cloths and mops is a must, let the cleaner and not the water do the work. Another useful item is the trigger spray cleaner. This is a ready to use product that doesn't require further dilution. Just spray it on the affected area and wipe with a dry mop or cloth. It is also available in a kit that comes complete with a specially designed mop, the mop cover and the trigger spray cleaner. Many customers have the concentrated cleaner and the trigger spray one. That way a small mark can quickly be dealt with or a the whole floor can be cleaned. Here are links to these products:

Disclaimer: Whilst every attempt has been made to give information that is as accurate as possible, it is not fair to say that any advice can apply to every wood finishing situation. All woods have a different make up and influence top coats in their own way. For example a species of wood that is new will colour differently to the same species that has been cut for 2 years and one that has been cut for 2 years will colour differently to one that has been cut for 10 years so wood finishing advice is always a guideline only.