Round 1 – Peel Away 7 Squares Up To Porridge

In the right corner, we have ‘porridge’, yes the hot breakfast cereal enjoyed by millions in the winter months, and in the left corner, Peel Away, the all-in-one paint and varnish removal system. While Peelaway 7 arrives cool and calm with it’s accompanying blanket and scraper, the porridge is busy warming up on the hob at gas mark 5. We felt that if we were going to give porridge a fighting chance, we would opt for one of the finest by selecting an organic premium brand from one of the local supermarkets.

Application of the peelaway 7 was quick and easy while the porridge tried to wimp out early by refusing to stick to the fireplace, perhaps a little too much milk. After a gentle re-heat and some sweet talking the porridge was ready to return to the ring.

Round 2 – The Reveal

After a night of snuggling together under the provided ‘peelaway 7′ blanket, we remove the covering to see exactly what the two methods have achieved through the dark hours of the night. It doesn’t take long to see that while peelaway 7 was getting hot and busy under the blanket, porridge was getting cool and do we dare say, sticky.

It seems at this stage that ‘Peel Away’ has the advantage with sections of the original fireplace clearly visible while porridge has left us with a sticky cold mess.

Round 3 – Peelaway 7 Declared The Winner

After a quick clean up, it’s clear to see that although porridge has a reputation for being good for the digestive and circulatory systems, it’s clearly not as effective for tackling layers of paint or varnish. The clear knock-out winner in this challenge is the Peelaway 7 paint and varnish removal system. To rid the fireplace of the last layer of lead-based paint we applied PeelAway 1 – the following morning we were back to the bare metal with no need to scrap in any of the detailed areas.

Do it yourself

If you’ve always wanted to restore a period fixture or piece of furniture but have been afraid to tackle it with sandpaper and a scraper, Peel Away offers the perfect solution. Depending on the age and type of paint or varnish involved, Peel Away paint and varnish removal systems can help to restore all types of plaster fixtures, metal fireplaces, wooden fixtures and furniture to their original detailed glory.

Peel Away 1 Paint Remover offers the best solution for older lead-based paints and is able to remove up to 32 layers of older varnishes and paints in a single application. Peelaway 1 is widely used by the trade as well as the marine and automobile industry.

For modern paints and varnishes Peel Away 7 paint stripper offers a safe and easy way to remove up to 20 layers of modern paint or varnish in one go. Peelaway 7 is a versatile product and can be used to remove paint from wood, brick, masonry, fibre glass and metal.

Varnishing wood

Today I’ll be trying to unravel what can truly earn the right to be called a lacquer.

The first thing to establish is the difference between a lacquer and a varnish. It may be surprising to learn that lacquer and varnish are, in fact, the same thing!

What we’ve noticed is the trade tend to refer to them as ‘lacquers’ and the general public tend to call them ‘varnishes’.

I’m now left with the dilemma of how to refer to them for the rest of this blog – eeny, meeny, miny, mo… I’ll go for lacquer!

What Is Lacquer?

The Origins of Lacquer

The word lacquer derives from the Portuguese word lac, and the word varnish derives from the Latin word vernix. Vernix means odorous resin and lac is the word for a resin that comes from certain insects. Well, whatever their roots both words have simply been integrated into the English language.  A bit like the words rapid and swift, same meanings, different roots.

Facts About Lacquer

• They have been used on wooden objects for at least 4,000 years
• A French Polisher applies shellac varnish with an applicator called a rubber, although there is no rubber in it!
• By using a rubber a French polisher can typically apply 50 thin coats of French polish to a table (for example) in under an hour!
• Most experts believe that lacquers were first used in China, but there is evidence to suggest that India may have been using them before the Chinese
• Gold and silver lacquers contain real gold and silver!
• Gold and silver are harder to produce in a water based formula because being a metal they can oxidise in the water (becoming a bit ‘rust-like’)

What’s It Made Of?

In short a lacquer is a resin, mixed with a solvent. When the lacquer is applied, the solvent evaporates and the hard resin is left on the surface of the wood forming a clear, durable seal. There may be other additives, such as binding agents that make up a small percentage of the blend.

The most popular resins are lac, acrylic, polyurethane (aka PU), nitrocellulose and alkyd. Briefly their origins are as follows:

• Lac is from a lac bug
• Polyurethane is a synthetic material derived through a polymerization process
• Acrylic could be described as a liquid plastic
• Alkyd is a modified polyester

Toxicodendron vernicifluum aka Chinese Lacquer Tree Leaves

We don’t see much Chinese lacquer in Europe, but you’ve probably heard of it. So, for the record it is a (toxic) sap taken from a tree (called toxicodendron vernicifluum) that grows in mainly in China and Japan. It’s probably the most ancient of all the resins used in lacquers.

All lacquers are gloss when they are first manufactured. An ingredient called a matting agent is then added to them to reduce the sheen level. Therefore a gloss is the most durable, although it’s fair to say the difference is minimal.

No More 70’s ‘You’ve Been Tangoed’ Effect!

Lacquers are termed as clear and indeed they are, in as much as they don’t contain pigment but their ingredients will inevitably influence the colour to some degree. Polyurethane lacquers tend to add a slight, warm brown effect to the wood. They don’t add that disliked orange effect that lacquers of the 70’s and 80’s were renowned for, which could be described as resembling the appearance of a toffee apple. Today’s good PU lacquers are much clearer. Shellac lacquers also add quite a lot of colour to the wood. The clearest lacquers are the pure acrylic ones. Our pure acrylic lacquer is called Interior Varnish.

Try The Lacquer Look At Home Before You Buy!

If you want to get an idea of how your wood will look without making a purchase, then simply apply a little water to the surface. The look you get when the wood is wet (after about 10 seconds) is how it will look once varnished.

The following lacquers will give the look of wet wood:

• Extra Tough Clear Varnish
• Polyurethane Varnish
• Floor Varnish
• Bona Mega
• Bona Traffic
• 2 Pack Varnish

Other Lacquer Resources

Some more interesting info can be read on the following link:

• http://woodworking.about.com/od/finishing/p/LacquerFinishes.htm

Well I hope I didn’t give you too much detail. I didn’t want to gloss over it!

A Little Info About Teak

Big Daddy Teak tree!

Teak is a deciduous tree with a latin name of Tectona which often grows up to 40 metres (130 ft) tall. Ideally a Teak tree needs to be at least 40 years old if the best wood is to be harvested, but new technology has enabled good quality wood to be produced once the tree has reached just 10 years of age.

It is one of the most expensive mass-produced woods in the world. Indonesia is the worlds leading producer of teak and its importance to their economy has helped to sustain replanting programmes.

The Benefits Of Teak

Teak has a high oil content making it very weather resistant, therefore it offers good elasticity. This means it’s an ideal timber for garden furniture and boat decks, amongst other things. Another great benefit of Teak’s high oil content, is that it gives the wood a high resistance against insect infestation.

It is a hard and heavy wood, with older teak trees supplying the best quality timber. However, Teak has a high silica content; making it renowned for blunting wood working tools!

Teak Can Take The Heat!

A survey that was carried out in 2000 found that Burmese Teak and Plantation Teak were ranked as the best performing woods for resisting cracking and warping under different humidity and temperature conditions.

Freshly cut Teak

Teak Facts

• There are just 3 teak species, the most popular is called ‘Common Teak’. All 3 timbers have their own natural warm glow (when cut), also as a result of the high oil content.
• Before Teak trees are cut down, the water content is drained. This is done by making a cut to the under side of the tree. This draining process typically takes 2 years before it is ready for use in furniture making and other products!
• The leaves of the teak tree are edible and often used in a dish called jackfruit
• 2 species of Teak called Dahat and Phillipine Teak are endangered
• The fruit of the Teak tree is called drupe

Finishing Teak Wood

Teak that has been sanded after going silver as a result of UV rays.

External Teak tends to go silver quite quickly (within 3 years) due to the effects of the sun’s UV rays. The silvering of the teak can be removed with Osmo’s wood reviver or often a light sand will do the trick.

The amount of sanding required depends on how long the teak has been left in the sun and rain etc. Once the teak has been restored back to its’ natural warm glow, it can then be re-finished with teak oil to maintain the natural lustre.

Oiled Teak

Teak oil is a blend of linseed oil, other ‘seed oils’, including rapeseed oil and vegetable oils. Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t contain Teak oil! The natural oils in the teak oil nourish and protect the wood, making it ideal for use on both internal and external wood. Alternatively Osmo teak oil can be used. It is a more durable teak oil that offers greater durability and requires just 2-3 initial coats rather than the 3-5 coats necessary when using ‘regular Teak oils’. External wood should always be coated with a wood preservative before applying the teak oil to prevent wood related diseases such as wet rot, dry rot and blue stone.

Despite what is commonly believed, it is not ideal to sand oily woods ‘as fine as possible’ because it is the open ‘pores’ of the grain that help the oil to sink into wood grain. Indeed it is always advisable to sand wood with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit when oils are to be applied.

Other Teak Resources

For more information on Teak, see the following resources: -

• http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2001/willi01d.pdf
• http://www.giantchess.com/manufacturer/about_teak_wood.html
• http://teakfurnituremanufacturers.com/teak-finishing-maintenance.html

Well, I hope that’s put to bed some of the mis-teak surrounding this wood. Next time we’ll be discussing… Beech!

A little history of Oak

Oak(or quercus as it is known in Latin) is a hardwood with some 400 known species. It has always been a popular wood in The UK, but in recent times it is even more widely used in construction and also as internal fixtures in clubs and gyms etc. For furniture construction oak has become ever more the wood of choice, a trend expanding year on year since the year 2000 when China, India and Indonesia substantially increased their export markets. Pine has been the wood to suffer from oak’s popularity as it is more widely available in the Far East.

The flowers of many oak trees are known as catkins and they are produced by oaks when they reach their reproductive age which is typically aged 20. They are triggered by rising temperatures in spring. Ultimately it is the catkins of many oaks that turn into the acorns, so maybe that popular phrase… ‘mighty oaks from little acorns grow’ should be ‘mighty oaks from little catkins grow’ although it doesn’t quite have the same ring does it?

Treating Oak wood

With regards to finishing and treating oak there are numerous possibilities but there are certain requirements that are asked for time and again… Often we are asked how external oak can be kept looking natural. Whilst the question is easy, the answer is not so straight forward. These are the necessary considerations: -

• When water penetrates oak it reacts with the high tannin content within oak, resulting in ‘blackening’.
• The Sun’s UV rays will turn the oak to a silvery hue over time.
• Clear products are inevitably not completely clear so they tend to ‘bring out’ the natural colours of the oak, normally making it a bit darker and warmer.
• The levels of rain, wind and sun will make a difference to how quickly the oak changes colour.

Oak affected by the sun

Oak affected by rain

If the requirement is to keep the oak looking as natural as possible, whilst preventing blackening or silvering as much as possible, then the following is the best system we know of: -

• 1 coat of clear wood preservative
• followed by 2-3 coats of Osmo 420

The Osmo 420 Wood Stain Protector offers UV resistance and also contains biocide which is important for external timbers as it prevents the wood from becoming diseased with wet rot, dry rot and blue stone etc. The oil also repels water, thus preventing it from going black.

If the requirement is to protect the oak whilst keeping the silvery appearance then the following is the best:

• 1 coat of clear wood preservative
• followed by 3-5 coats of tung oil

Tung oil is one of the clearest oils on the market and doesn’t offer UV resistance.

If the exterior oak needs to be coloured then the following system is recommended:

• 1 coat of clear wood preservative
• followed by 1 coat of your chosen colour of Osmo wood stain and protector
• followed by 1 coat of Osmo 420

If blackening on exterior oak needs removing then a scrub with a fungicidal wash is recommended, with various brands being available from DIY superstores and hardware shops. On the other hand it may be the silvering that needs removing. If so, a scrub with oxalic acid is required or even better, Osmo wood reviver (which contains oxalic acid, amongst other active ingredients).

Unfinished Oak

Finished Oak

One of the most common enquiries we get is how to keep internal oak looking natural. This is not just a case of simply applying ‘clear products’ as they bring out the natural colours of the wood, thus making it little darker and more golden. A very good indication of how your oak will look once it has been finished with a ‘clear’ coat is to apply water to a test area. The look achieved when the wood is wet is very close to how it will look once a clear varnish or a clear oil has been applied.

Some customers like the way oak colours when clear coatings are applied to it whilst others want it to be as close as possible to how it looks in its natural state. This natural look can almost be achieved by adding some white to your chosen top coat but test areas are vital because each wood needs a different mix of clear top coat to white. Here are some guidelines: -

• If an oiled finish is preferred then 1 part of the white hard wax oil can be mixed with 2 parts of the clear hard wax oil.
• If a varnished finish is preferred then 1 part white dye can be mixed with 50 parts clear varnish.

Clear wax polish is the one exception to the above… If a clear wax polish is applied to bare oak (or just about any other wood for that matter) then the colour is kept very natural indeed, it’s just a question of whether a wax polish is going to be durable enough. Internal doors, for example are considered, by most people, to be ideal for finishing with a wax, where as a floor will look nice once waxed but regular maintenance is required, so most people don’t opt for wax for this reason.

If the oak needs to be made darker then hard wax oil is ideal because it colours and protects the wood in the same application. It is always good to try and finish with a clear coat if possible because if the wood gets scratched it is the clear coat that scratches before the coloured coat and therefore the scratch is not as noticeable.

Oiling consideration

If oak is being oiled it is a good idea to sand it with a sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit. The reason for this is that the pores of the wood are more open thus allowing the oil to sink into the wood better. Better absorption equals greater protection.

Interesting Oak Stats

• Oak bark is rich in tannin, and is used by tanners for tanning leather.
• Acorns can be used for making flour or they can be roasted for making acorn coffee.
• Tannin dissolves and escapes from the wood. Wine barrels are made from oak and it is the tannin that helps to give the wine its’ colour.
• Sessile oaks of Europe and can reach heights of up to 40 metres.
• Oak trees regularly live to be 500 years old, although 1,000 years old oaks are also known.
• A mature oak tree can produce up to 50,000 acorns!

For more information on Oak, see the following resources: -

• http://www.pinesolutions.co.uk/oak.html
• http://www.treesforlife.org.uk/forest/species/oak.html
• http://www.utextension.utk.edu/publications/wfiles/W126.pdf

Oakey Dokey then   – tune in next time when we’ll be discussing………… Teak!

Most countries have pine trees (there are up to 125 types of pine) and the difference in the timbers from various pine trees are enormous. Generally speaking, pines fall into 3 broad categories: red pine, white pine and yellow pine. The most popular of these pines being used in Europe are Scandinavian Red Pine, Russian White Pine and Quebec Yellow Pine.

Scandinavian Red Pine

This is a reasonably dense pine that is ethically grown so it’s a popular choice that is used worldwide. It is distinctive because it tends to have pinkish stripes running through it. In other words there are lighter and darker ‘stripes’ in the wood.

Russian White Pine

This is grown in the far north of Russia in an area called Angel. It’s very cold there resulting in a slow grown timber, meaning it’s one of the strongest pines around but it’s also one of the more expensive ones. It has small/no knots due to the trunk being so long before any branches appear (and as we all know the knots show where the branches of the tree were). It is very pale in colour and also very consistent with small knots if there are any.

Quebec Yellow Pine

As the name suggests, this pine is from Quebec and indeed other parts of Canada. It has distinctive large knots (and therefore large branches) and a strong, pleasant smell with a light, warm yellowy hue to it. It is not as dense as the above 2 but it is great for machining and therefore widely used in furniture manufacturing although the European furniture industry is in decline since the more cost effective furniture is being imported from The Far East.

Incidentally the Pines from The Far East are more of a hard wood than the soft pines we are used to. They are incredibly dense and heavy and often not from renewable sources which is something we should all be aware of, but the quality has improved and the prices of Far Eastern furniture is generally unmatchable in Europe.

The UK had large areas of pine trees offering a medium density wood that is ideal for manufacturing, but our supplies were mostly exhausted well before the Victorian era. About 2% of our forests still remain and a lot of it is pine that is protected (thankfully), although Scots Pine is still ethically produced in some parts of Scotland, and a few other pockets of the UK still produce ethically grown pine often collectively called Deal or Softwood. White Deal or Spruce is often used for the manufacture of the ‘budget furniture’ popular in our superstores.

During Victorian times and in particular during the Industrial Revolution, there was a huge demand for pine with one of the main markets being for buildings. As anyone will know who’s lived in a Victorian house (and more modern houses), just about all the doors, window frames, stair cases and other permanent fixtures are made from pine and often a Genus called Pinus Sylvestris. This is a Scandinavian Redwood and many of the phone calls and emails we receive are asking how they can match new pine with old pine which more often than not is Scandinavian Red Pine.

As the name suggests the wood has a reddish tinge and the older the wood, the more prominent this reddish tinge tends to be, so matching new, pale Softwood to Scandinavian Red Pine (for example matching new skirting to old floor boards) can be tricky but Hard Wax Oil is as good as anything at doing this. The reason being, that oils soak into the wood, colouring it and protecting it at the same time, so the staining process is eliminated. The usual way to go about matching different shades of wood is to impose colour onto the lightest wood with a water or solvent based colouring liquid, known as a stain or a dye so that it can then be over coated with a clear varnish or similar. The downside to staining is it’s virtually impossible to find the right shade off the shelf and inevitably some mixing is required. For example, 1 litre of Honey Pine Water stain could be mixed with a little red or orange dye, but mixing colours is often not appealing to customers as it can be time consuming and difficult to repeat accurately where small measurements are concerned. Hard Wax Oil, in the American shade, is ideal for the above scenario. For example a neat coat of American HWO could be applied to the new wood and then a 2^nd coat of American mixed 50/50 with clear could be applied to the light and dark wood to tie it all in better. Colour matching is always more effective when the same product is used on all woods. Of course the mix required all depends on what colour you are trying to achieve but there is a good range of colours available in the Hard Wax Oil so it is recommended for most colour matching requirements.

Interesting Pine Stats

• Pine trees have a life time of 100 to 1,000 years.
• The oldest known pine is 4,840 years old. It is still alive and is one of the oldest known organisms in the world!
• They are evergreens.
• They vary in height from just 3 mtrs to 80 mtrs (Sugar Pine).
• Some food sources from the pine tree are pine oil, pine nuts, and the white interior of the bark of some pines can be used to make pine bread!

This link has further interesting and detailed information about pine.

Well I hope you found this piece interesting, if so and you are pining for more (groan) look in next week when we’ll be discussing Oak!

Features of the garden that tend to get a raw deal over the winter period are the wooden fixtures and fittings such as sheds, garden fences, decking and wooden patio furniture. Exposed to the ravishes of wind, rain, snow and frost, the once warm, vibrant shades and tones of exterior wood have dulled or turned to a lifeless green or grey.

If you’re heading out to the garden for the first time in the next couple of weeks and are looking to restore exterior wooden features back to their former glory, here are some superior quality, environmentally friendly products to consider:

• Exterior Wood Oil – UV Resistant and water repellent in 3 coats, this exterior wood oil is resistant to weathering and the bleaching effects of the sun. Perfect for garden furniture, decking and other exterior wooden surfaces, this exterior hardwood preservative offers unrivalled protection and performance. It is recommended that a coat of clear wood preservative is applied to the wooden surface before this product.
• Osmo Wood Stain and Protector – Ideal for all exterior woodwork. This oil based product, that also contains natural waxes is available in a range of colours and can be used to maintain the natural appearance of exterior wood. Using this product retains the original appearance of the wood texture and grain.
• Osmo Country Colour – Perfect on all wood types, new or weathered, rough or smooth, Osmo Country Colour can be used to renew previously stained, weathered or discoloured wooden surfaces ensuring further protection for many years to come. A range of colours are available. This product gives the look of a  paint and covers over the texture and  grain of the wood to leave a smooth finish.
• Spray On Fence Stain – Provides a quick and easy solution to stain and protect your fence or shed. Economical and easy to use, spray on fence treatment can extend the life of garden fence panels and sheds by protecting against the damaging effects of weathering. This product can be quickly and easily applied with an affordable hand pump spray system or by paint brush.
• Wood Preservative – An all in one solution for the treatment and prevention of damage from wood rot and fungi on timber. Wood preservatives can be left as they are or over-coated with oil or one of the above products when dry to achieve the desired finish.

Revitalising tired, external wooden items can be a job that many wish to avoid, however in a matter of hours, these surfaces can be treated to look like new again. Before grabbing a tub of Creosote, (a product soon to be outlawed because of its high toxicity and environmental impact) it is worth considering the newer, safer and environmentally friendly products now available. The natural oils and waxes that these products contain offer far superior protection and will bring tired looking sheds, fences, decking and patio furniture, back to life and ready for the summer season and beyond once again.

This process isn’t just about the cosmetics of making wood look good for another summer, it’s  a maintenance program that will help to protect your investments and help prolong the life of garden sheds, fences and decking for many years to come.

If you’re unsure of what you need, contact Wood Finishes Direct whose team are on hand to offer guidance and advice on what products are suitable. No matter what the job, whether interior or exterior, big or small, they have it all.

Back in early 2008, such a challenge was given to TV Presenter Kevin McCloud, the face of the Channel 4 program ‘Grand Designs’.

Kevin’s brief was simple; to design and build a sustainable house, using traditional materials and techniques along side cutting-edge 21st Century technology which underpins his green principles – Simple!

The house was built at the Excel Centre in London as part of Channel 4’s Grand Design Live exhibition and incorporated sustainable products and materials from around the country. The build included everything from the day to day throw away materials such as glass bottles and newspapers, environmentally and user friendly Tung Oil from Wood Finishes Direct in Kent and the latest echo technology from a host of suppliers from around the country.

To read more on the project, the suppliers and the materials used, visit the Grand Designs Live: The House That Kevin Built web site.

Whether looking to design and build your own home from scratch or to simply renovate or give a room a face lift, this program shows that with the right products and materials, great things can be accomplished with minimal impact on the environment.

Fear not! With a little knowledge and the right products, your weathered sheds, fences and exterior wood can be brought back to life in an instant.

Here at Wood-Finishes-Direct.com, we have a wide range of quality wood finishes, wood stains and treatments to help you protect and restore your exterior wood to its former natural beauty. So here’s our advice on some top selling products that stand up to the job.

Shed and Fence Stains

Normally the summer air is filled with the smell of creosote but today, there’s a much better choice of low odour shed and fence stain alternatives. No longer limited to the traditional brown that creosote used to offer, new safer and more environmentally friendly exterior stains and treatments have emerged in colours such as Harvest Gold, Country Pine and Rosewood. If you have large areas to stain, such as a garden fence or shed, we recommend our simple hand operated spray system. These easy to use hand operated pumps don’t require a compressor or electricity to build up air pressure, they are light, portable and at under £16 are great value saving on the much more expensive elbow grease.

One such product that works hand-in-hand with these spray systems is Barrettines Shed and Fence stain – a product that is both an exterior stain and wood preservative offering unrivalled protection against weathering.

Garden Furniture

The British climate can be quite ruthless on our wooden garden furniture, even brand new tables and chairs can look second hand by the end of the year. There are a reasonable number of products available but if you wish to enhance and maintain the natural colour of your garden furniture, the best protective wood finishes are the products that penetrate deep in to the wood grain to replace essential natural oils.

Our Exterior wood oil, Garden Furniture Oil and Osmo wood stain protector all offer superior protection whilst enhancing the natural wood grain and warmth. If you fancy changing the character of your wood, then there are some great exterior oil based paints available in a range of colours through our online shop. We have had very good feedback with our Osmo Country Colour range, which blocks out the wood grain, and the equally popular Osmo Wood Stain Protector which allows the wood grain to show through. We’re also getting excited about adding some up and coming exterior varnishes to our Morrells range. They will be available in wood tones, ideal for exterior doors and garden furniture, or as primary colours which could be used to brighten up a child’s climbing frame, gazebo or a drab garden shed!

Decking Oils and Stains

Wooden decking presents the toughest challenge for any product as it is a high-traffic area and is normally always exposed to the elements. For those of you that want to preserve the wood’s original appearance, we recommend choosing a decking oil that has mostly pure natural ingredients, such as our Tung oil or Decking oil. From the decking stains that are available, our Barrettine Decking Stain and Treatment offers an all-in-one solution for decking that is harmless to pets and specially formulated to help prevent timber from splitting and cracking.

Protect don’t replace

Finally, it needn’t just be the old wood in the garden that needs looking after. Although the majority of new garden furniture, sheds, fences and decking come pre-treated, it doesn’t take long for the effects of the weather to start taking its toll. Even during summer, the ultraviolet rays of the sun can bleach wood stains and strip away the natural oils leaving them jaded, greying and vulnerable to wind and rain.

By using the right treatments with the right tools, decking, sheds, fences and garden furniture can be quickly and easily treated so they can be enjoyed again and again for many years to come.

As with any product always apply to a test area first as different wood types and ages will greatly influence the overall finish.

After being used to sterile looking wipe clean laminate surfaces, people often have concerns and questions about using real wood for flooring and kitchen surfaces, this is understandable when talking about something that children could be crawling over or in the case of kitchen work tops, food will be prepared on.

In reality, getting the look you want in the kitchen and on wooden floors that is hard wearing, easy to maintain and above all safe is probably quicker and easier than you may think. Ticking all the right boxes, Hard Wax oil is tough and hard wearing, perfect for high usage floor areas and food preparation surfaces.

One of the most versatile and easy to use products available for these sorts of projects, hard wax oil is available in matt, satin or satin gloss finishes. Easily applied with a cloth, paint brush, floor applicator or spray gun system, Hard Wax oil has hardly any smell. Penetrating the wood to form a layer of water resistant wax, Hard Wax oil can be gently buffed to achieve the desired finish.

Perfect for all types of wood including reclaimed, hard wax oil is durable and safe and can be used on children’s toys or furniture, perfect for food preparation surfaces and great for floors. For upkeep and maintenance, further coats of wax can be added; even areas of wear and damage can be restored with a light sanding and a re-application of the hard wax oil – as good as new again.

So if your dream is of a farm house kitchen with real wooden floors and surfaces but were afraid of the care and upkeep – don’t be, it’s probably a lot quicker and easier to create and maintain than you think.