Archive for 2010

No Glossing Over – Lacquers & Varnishes Unravelled

Friday, April 16th, 2010
Varnishing wood

Varnishing wood

Today I’ll be trying to unravel what can truly earn the right to be called a lacquer.

The first thing to establish is the difference between a lacquer and a varnish. It may be surprising to learn that lacquer and varnish are, in fact, the same thing!

What we’ve noticed is the trade tend to refer to them as ‘lacquers’ and the general public tend to call them ‘varnishes’.

I’m now left with the dilemma of how to refer to them for the rest of this blog – eeny, meeny, miny, mo… I’ll go for lacquer!

What Is Lacquer?

The Origins of Lacquer

The word lacquer derives from the Portuguese word lac, and the word varnish derives from the Latin word vernix. Vernix means odorous resin and lac is the word for a resin that comes from certain insects. Well, whatever their roots both words have simply been integrated into the English language.  A bit like the words rapid and swift, same meanings, different roots.

Facts About Lacquer

  • They have been used on wooden objects for at least 4,000 years
  • A French Polisher applies shellac varnish with an applicator called a rubber, although there is no rubber in it!
  • By using a rubber a French polisher can typically apply 50 thin coats of French polish to a table (for example) in under an hour!
  • Most experts believe that lacquers were first used in China, but there is evidence to suggest that India may have been using them before the Chinese
  • Gold and silver lacquers contain real gold and silver!
  • Gold and silver are harder to produce in a water based formula because being a metal they can oxidise in the water (becoming a bit ‘rust-like’)

What’s It Made Of?

In short a lacquer is a resin, mixed with a solvent. When the lacquer is applied, the solvent evaporates and the hard resin is left on the surface of the wood forming a clear, durable seal. There may be other additives, such as binding agents that make up a small percentage of the blend.

The most popular resins are lac, acrylic, polyurethane (aka PU), nitrocellulose and alkyd. Briefly their origins are as follows:

  • Lac is from a lac bug
  • Polyurethane is a synthetic material derived through a polymerization process
  • Acrylic could be described as a liquid plastic
  • Alkyd is a modified polyester
Toxicodendron vernicifluum aka Chinese Lacquer Tree Leaves

Toxicodendron vernicifluum aka Chinese Lacquer Tree Leaves

We don’t see much Chinese lacquer in Europe, but you’ve probably heard of it. So, for the record it is a (toxic) sap taken from a tree (called toxicodendron vernicifluum) that grows in mainly in China and Japan. It’s probably the most ancient of all the resins used in lacquers.

All lacquers are gloss when they are first manufactured. An ingredient called a matting agent is then added to them to reduce the sheen level. Therefore a gloss is the most durable, although it’s fair to say the difference is minimal.

No More 70’s ‘You’ve Been Tangoed’ Effect!

Lacquers are termed as clear and indeed they are, in as much as they don’t contain pigment but their ingredients will inevitably influence the colour to some degree. Polyurethane lacquers tend to add a slight, warm brown effect to the wood. They don’t add that disliked orange effect that lacquers of the 70’s and 80’s were renowned for, which could be described as resembling the appearance of a toffee apple. Today’s good PU lacquers are much clearer. Shellac lacquers also add quite a lot of colour to the wood. The clearest lacquers are the pure acrylic ones. Our pure acrylic lacquer is called Interior Varnish.

Try The Lacquer Look At Home Before You Buy!

If you want to get an idea of how your wood will look without making a purchase, then simply apply a little water to the surface. The look you get when the wood is wet (after about 10 seconds) is how it will look once varnished.

The following lacquers will give the look of wet wood:

Other Lacquer Resources

Some more interesting info can be read on the following link:

Well I hope I didn’t give you too much detail. I didn’t want to gloss over it! ;-)

A Touch Of Teak – Its Benefits & Uses

Thursday, March 4th, 2010

After a little break we are back with part 3 of our series on wood types. This week I’ll be discussing Teak. If you haven’t already read parts 1 and 2, feel free to go check them out here: All about Pine Wood & All about Oak Wood.

A Little Info About Teak

Teak Tree

Big Daddy Teak tree!

Teak is a deciduous tree with a latin name of Tectona which often grows up to 40 metres (130 ft) tall. Ideally a Teak tree needs to be at least 40 years old if the best wood is to be harvested, but new technology has enabled good quality wood to be produced once the tree has reached just 10 years of age.

It is one of the most expensive mass-produced woods in the world. Indonesia is the worlds leading producer of teak and its importance to their economy has helped to sustain replanting programmes.

The Benefits Of Teak

Teak has a high oil content making it very weather resistant, therefore it offers good elasticity. This means it’s an ideal timber for garden furniture and boat decks, amongst other things. Another great benefit of Teak’s high oil content, is that it gives the wood a high resistance against insect infestation.

It is a hard and heavy wood, with older teak trees supplying the best quality timber. However, Teak has a high silica content; making it renowned for blunting wood working tools!

Teak Can Take The Heat!

A survey that was carried out in 2000 found that Burmese Teak and Plantation Teak were ranked as the best performing woods for resisting cracking and warping under different humidity and temperature conditions.

Freshly cut Teak

Freshly cut Teak

Teak Facts

  • There are just 3 teak species, the most popular is called ‘Common Teak’. All 3 timbers have their own natural warm glow (when cut), also as a result of the high oil content.
  • Before Teak trees are cut down, the water content is drained. This is done by making a cut to the under side of the tree. This draining process typically takes 2 years before it is ready for use in furniture making and other products!
  • The leaves of the teak tree are edible and often used in a dish called jackfruit
  • 2 species of Teak called Dahat and Phillipine Teak are endangered
  • The fruit of the Teak tree is called drupe

Finishing Teak Wood

Teak that has been sanded after going silver as a result of UV rays.

Teak that has been sanded after going silver as a result of UV rays.

External Teak tends to go silver quite quickly (within 3 years) due to the effects of the sun’s UV rays. The silvering of the teak can be removed with Osmo’s wood reviver or often a light sand will do the trick.

The amount of sanding required depends on how long the teak has been left in the sun and rain etc. Once the teak has been restored back to its’ natural warm glow, it can then be re-finished with teak oil to maintain the natural lustre.


Oiled Teak

Oiled Teak

Teak oil is a blend of linseed oil, other ‘seed oils’, including rapeseed oil and vegetable oils. Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t contain Teak oil! The natural oils in the teak oil nourish and protect the wood, making it ideal for use on both internal and external wood. Alternatively Osmo teak oil can be used. It is a more durable teak oil that offers greater durability and requires just 2-3 initial coats rather than the 3-5 coats necessary when using ‘regular Teak oils’. External wood should always be coated with a wood preservative before applying the teak oil to prevent wood related diseases such as wet rot, dry rot and blue stone.

Despite what is commonly believed, it is not ideal to sand oily woods ‘as fine as possible’ because it is the open ‘pores’ of the grain that help the oil to sink into wood grain. Indeed it is always advisable to sand wood with sandpaper that is no finer than 150 grit when oils are to be applied.

Other Teak Resources

For more information on Teak, see the following resources: -

Well, I hope that’s put to bed some of the mis-teak surrounding this wood. Next time we’ll be discussing… Beech!